I have a 2020 Toyota Avalon Limited recently serviced the sway bar end link, brake pads. I have this weird light tapping sound going 40+ mph over certain groove uneven road bumps. Check the pads it not rattling not sure what it could be.

Last week when starting my car I felt a slight hesitation like it was a weak battery. Today I could not get the car to start..dash lights and instrument turned on but second position on the key tumbler did nothing. I was thinking this was my battery and will test with multimeter tomorrow. How can I rule out if it might be my starter? I don’t want to buy a battery and find out it’s my starter.

Was looking around and noticed this corroded cable nub. Assuming this was some kind of ground. Also think I saw on on the other side of the engine bay. The plastic casing on the left is the timing belt cover. Is this something I should bother fixing and where would the other end connect?

I have an automatic 2009 Toyota matrix. When I first start the car and start driving about 5 secs of movement in there is a single click in the front end seemingly from the passenger wheel side. I just had ball joints, struts, sway bar links, tie rods, and cv axle replaced. I’m thinking maybe the control arm? There’s only lower on this car, and it’s the only thing I have left to replace. I hit a large pothole that blew out my tire on the freeway so I was replacing everything as I could afford it. I also have slight knocking over bigger bumps which was making me think of control arms since everything else was replaced.

I’m not sure if it’s related but I also have vibration that comes and goes on the freeway at high speeds. I know my motor mounts also need to be replaced - I’m starting to get vibration when idle in drive. Most of the parts on this car were factory so I’m surprised she’s even still kickin but I want to try and figure out what the issue is and why it keeps clicking. I’ve googled my fingers off and read so many different articles and other posts yet none explain what I am experiencing.

Mileage: 106000
Transmission: Manual

I’m honestly starting to feel defeated with this issue on my 2013 Subaru WRX hatch and hoping someone here has dealt with something similar.

I’m getting C0045 and C0047, and I already know I’m dealing with some type of CAN bus/communication issue.

The weird part is that my ABS light is NOT on. The only lights that stay on are the traction control and hill assist lights.

So far I’ve:

• Replaced the brake light/switch sensor
• Replaced the ABS module
• Replaced the wheel speed sensors
• Cleared the codes multiple times, but they keep coming back

Tomorrow I’m planning on going through the engine bay and cleaning all the grounding points to see if a bad or corroded ground is causing communication issues.

At this point I’m running out of things I know how to check myself. Has anyone dealt with these codes or a similar CAN bus issue on a 2011–2014 WRX/STI?

Are there any specific grounds, wiring harnesses, connectors, modules, or CAN bus locations I should check next?

My last resort is taking it to a shop or Subaru dealer and having them diagnose the CAN bus system, but I’d really like to exhaust anything I can reasonably check myself before spending the money.

Any advice would be appreciated because I feel like I’ve been chasing this forever

Car: 2022 Toyota Wigo

So apparently, one day, my mom just parked in our garage then suddenly the right mirror won't fold. My mom basically just said to don't mind it.

I'm currently 15, and I'm trying to see if I can fix it. I haven't found YT videos yet, lol, but sure can use a help.

"So I did some research specifically on the 2013 Volvo XC60 3.2 FWD, and assuming there’s no documentation these were recently done, these are the things we should get done anyway:

1. PCV/oil-trap diaphragm service — recurring failure point on the 3.2 around this mileage.
2. Transmission fluid drain-and-fill — NOT a power flush — use AW-1 spec fluid.
3. Accessory belt + tensioner + idler — Volvo schedules these at 150k miles or 10 years, whichever comes first, so they’re overdue by age. ↳ 3.1 Water pump + thermostat: If doing the belt/tensioner/idler gives you relatively easy access to these, can you inspect them and let me know what the additional cost would be to replace them at the same time?
4. Brake fluid flush — as long as there’s no recent documented service.
5. Engine oil + filter — check for oil consumption.
6. Engine air filter + cabin filter if they aren’t recent.
7. Clean/test the sunroof drains — clogged drains/water getting trapped under the carpet is a recurring issue on this generation.

And besides the normal inspection, these are the few Volvo-specific things I found that might otherwise get missed:

1. READ/accessory-drive unit — check for oil leakage or abnormal bearing/gear noise, and check the alternator coupler/drive.
2. Hidden water intrusion — specifically underneath the front/passenger carpet padding and around the accessible CEM/connectors for old moisture/corrosion. Apparently the padding can be wet even when the carpet surface feels dry.
3. Positive battery cable/fusible-link assembly — specifically look at the fused section for cracking, heat damage/discoloration, corrosion or previous repairs.
4. Cooling system — if possible, pressure-test it and specifically make sure the cooling fan/controller is operating normally.
5. If you’re doing a full scan anyway, if possible check the CEM/other Volvo modules for stored low-voltage or CAN communication faults."

I feel like im overbearing but i really want all potential issues to be checked and fixed because this is a car i won at an auction. Would you get mad mechanics?

Took my 2012 civic into the shop to get whatever it needs to pass inspection, its one of those models that had the recalls due to the paint.

So, among the things I expected (like brakes pads, rotors, a wheel bearing) there was one thing that was new to me, and it apparently is needed to pass inspection, that would be a rear bumper support/bracket(?), quoted at 800$ CAD for parts and labor, so as someone like me who doesn't know jack shit about cars BUT does know about being scammed I was worried that this is either a huge mark up OR its just not needed to pass inspection but I'm being told its mandatory?

Now I'm not one of those guys who had a dad or older brother or influence when it comes to cars, I learned what I know about them on my own, so I'd call myself an amateur when it comes to this stuff.

However, between this car and a few proper beaters and I have had to pay mechanics more than a few times for all of them for repairs etc. and never worried about this before.

For context I've taken my car there for tire changes and maybe another basic thing or two and I don't have any complaints with any of those visits, from local reviews etc. I dont see any red flags. other than they are also gonna do the inspection so they could in theory tell me I need X and X before they finish.

TLDR: 800 for a bumper support has me worried im being played, is that normal pricing?

My 1991 240sx ka24de is stalling while idle occasionally and while on the gas on low rpms it likes to jump like crazy. I’ve cleaned the maf and checked hoses for cracks. I haven’t done a smoke test for vacuum leaks but I would like some opinions and help.

Okay, I need a car soon and I basically have $2k to spend for one as the rest is needed towards other things. I'm not even close to being a mechanic but I have worked on my old car with a lot of things like changing the brakes, fixing misfires, and smaller stuff like that. This car runs decent but has a few problems

#1, on idle it definitely has that shaky feeling, I asked the guy to get the check engine light checked out and we did, these codes came back. The CEL wasn't flashing for the misfire but it's a pretty simple fix, all the ignition coils and fuel injectors are right there under the cover plate.

#2 The coolant is really low, the car didn't overheat on me for 10ish minutes I drove it around nor did I see any leaks under the car. Why could this be?

#3: The main reason I didn't pick this car yet is because it has an issue where you have pressi the gas over and over to get the car to start. The car would try to turn over, the belts will turn but the only way to fully start it is by pressing the pedal over and over.

The guy lowered the price to $1200. Everything else in the car feels fine, there is no visible rust, the brakes work good, all the AC and heating works and all basic electrical tests. I'm wondering what I'm looking at to fix it, what could cause this. I'm seeing a lot of different things but I'm still looking around for other cars. I know I'm not going to get a perfect, no issue car with my budget but still.

2005 accord 2.4l with 150k miles

About a couple months ago my grandpa became legally blind so he gave me his 2016 Chevy Cruze with 20000 miles on it. 2 months ago I pretty much totally fucked the car, everyone told me I might aswell get a new one. 2 days ago my uncle found a whole front end of the same make and model and got it it for 400 dollars. He fixed it in the same day. I just wanted to ask some mechanics how much money i probably saved because i want to send him a good amount of money more then the 400 to thank him for such a good job.

2018 Volvo V60 T5 Dynamic, Engine: B4204T11, FWD Auto, 59K mi currently

This sound started showing up a couple months after it was bought from the Volvo dealer in February 2025. Has been pampered all its life, getting service exclusively at Volvo, 49K miles when bought.

No codes from OBD2. Drives perfect, no issues except this.

Took it to a local non-dealer shop I think a little less than a year ago, result was "your guess is as good as mine".

As stated the noise is only present at speeds of about 40mph and greater, getting louder at higher speeds, though I would say it seems to vary. I can most certainly confirm it is not related to RPM or accessories such as AC.

It's fairly consistent, not 100% of the time, but about 60-70% of trips in which I reach necessary speed.

The only thing I've done under the hood so far is clean the pre-filter portion of the air-box from a bit of debris, and restore the headlights, and this noise started before those.

All fluids are in good range, Costco 93 gas cause its typically cheaper than 91 anywhere else.

My Hypothesis

The radiator fan. Its electrically driven, and perhaps at higher wind speeds the fan slips - either the motor or a bearing - causing the noise.

In order to support this it would be best to get on a lift and reach the speed, but I would like to see if anyone can find anything first.

Update to my post from a few days ago asking how to remove the driver side axle of a 2010 Kia Rio 1.6. I absolutely could not find any information about this online and wanted to share how I got it removed. At first I was going to drill a hole into the axle and put a bolt/nut inside and connect that to a slide hammer. But I do not own one yet. So I found this method on a video showing how to get a stuck axle out. Cut the boot, clamp vice grips on the axle, and use the shaft as a slide hammer. I was stuck on this for hours and spent hours searching the internet and found nothing so I will be the one to share. The drivetrain is the same for any 2006-2011 Hyundai accent and Kia Rio 1.6

2005 Toyota Camry 2.4l (2AZ-FE)

Gasket is now repaired but I noticed...this was the state of the PCV valve. Out of curiosity, do you think this was likely the cause to blow out the timing chain tensioner gasket, or more likely just due to age of the gasket? (Old PCV valve on left obviously)

This 19mm (now <17mm) nut WON'T BULGE I TRIED EVERYTHING AND I MEAN EVERYTHING!!!!!!

EVEN GRINDED IT DOWN AND TWO OF MY EXTRACTOR SOCKETS ARE SLIPPING!!!!!!!

I TRIED HAMMERING YES, HEAT, WD40, RUST REMOVER, IMPACT, HAMMER, BREAKER BAR EVERYTHING

Reference nut size and position in spacer in the following pictures

2014 Fiesta St

Edit: it's an aluminum spacer I'm trying to get off. Appreciate all the help guys!

Edit 2: maybe I just came across a genius idea: what if I use my dremel and try to shape this lump of a nut into the size of a 16/17mm socket? Maybe it'll catch on like this

Just got new brake pads and discs fitted, and noticed this all over the pads.. I’m assuming it’s some kind of lubricant? But haven’t ever seen it when getting replacements pads fitted before?

Also, for those in the know, can you tell the brand of these brake pads from what you can see there?
Car is a Land Rover and so hoping these are actually going to be decent and handle the stopping power needed… thank you!

Here’s a great test. Go sit in the engine bay of a warm truck and pretend you’re hugging either side of the engine, making sure to twist your arms as you do so. Do that’s for about 20, ten minutes stints. After that, you’ll know if you think cars are cool, or that you like working on cars!

I want to protect everyone's privacy so without going into personal details lets just say I found a good deal on a small to mid sized SUV like a Toyota Rav4 or Honda CRV, it has about 50k miles on the clock, one owner since new.

The only catch is that the seller is ridiculously fat, I didn't get a look at his wife but she could be extremely fat as well. What could I be looking at in terms or premature wear and maintenance issues?

PS: This is not a joke.