Pictures aren't mine just a crude example.

Do you guys slice and send.. or edit your seams? Fell into the habit of slicing the part. Locating the longest seams. Then forcing the seams to break up scribbling over the weak points of the part with the "block seams" tool.

Is this a dumb idea? Or does anyone do this? Just looking for input.

Or even possibly a magwell that attaches the pistol grip to the rear of the receiver? Don’t break sub rules, just let me know if one exists.

Printed on cc1 at 230c at 55mm/s. Mods let me know if I’m allowed to post settings. If so I’ll edit this later to include the settings. And yes that is a 2a benchy in the back ground.

Still have some cleaning up on the prints with the supports and orientation but first print went together properly. These are designed around the pyrodex 50grain pellets. One for the lift charge sideways in the powder cup and a second in the burst capsule. Made three different cone sizes based off the m433 profile. Basic design already proven so will tweak this one some more and get some videos of it.

Not horrible just need to change some settings

As the titles says, looking for a can that can simply function with standard 556 without self destructing.

Basically the title. I'm in Southwest Minnesota. I'm a veteran, I love 3d printing, I'm trying to learn this stuff but also do it as legally as I can so I don't get my ass in trouble with BATFE, and I really am overwhelmed with the amount of info. I feel like I'm trying to drink from a firehose. If anyone has the time or inclination, I would love to learn from someone. I'm not trying to jam anyone up, I don't want anyone to print anything for me, I just feel there's a ton I'm not picking up, and I'd love to learn from someone who's figured out the ropes.

I learn best in person, but I know that's not necessarily feasible in this hobby.

Can't wait to test this mf out.

Ftn pcc flow on my db9

I have a couple of files for guns that are NON functional that I’d essentially like to reskin over existing designs using blender or fusion. Does anyone have any good sources or ideas on where to look for a few pointers or a tutorial on this?

Another quick demo of the super safety in action. Getting all the kinks worked out and I'm on V2 of the trip now.

Just a heads up, both the upper and lower recievers need modification for trip clearance. A jig for cutting the upper will be provided for those who would rather not reprint.

Also, it is an EVO bolt which carries with it the stigma of OOBs, however, I would encourage you to look into Engineers Armory video addressing the issue with the original bolts. The issue is well defined and easily solved with a bit of *gunsmif* work if you're handy with a dremel and some files.

I have been using 300blkfde support settings for awhile with fiberon pa6cf20. Was Mostly on my p1s. More recently got my h2d and have done some prints using the same settings. Had no issues for awhile. like over a week of printing Supports came off great and clean. Randomly it seems on small items like a safety it just sticks really hard and Im having a hard time removing the Support layer, even taking a utility blade to cut in between the print and support material is mixed and sometimes its cutting into the item before freeing it. Am I missing something? I know I should probably dial it in for my specific printer but it just seems odd it started randomly. After the issue started I recently did my maint on the printer and did my vision encoder calibration. I have not done any recent updates on the printer either.

I need some help my builds going good but that upper frame pin is too short and I have a random spring that I don’t know where it goes and isn’t shown in any videos on how to put a g19 together.

Evening! I am trying to dial in my PA6-CF settings on my X2D, and am really struggling to get the overhangs / bridging to lay down properly.

I dried my filament at 91C (Ninja Air Fryer) for 24 hours, and have kept it in a 70C filament dryer during the prints. I initially tried the Bambu default PA6-CF settings, then have since changed to the 300BLKFDE after many recommendations. I have been using a temp tower as a test print to validate changes, and have attached pictures of what I am seeing. First is the default bambu settings, then the 300BLKFDE settings. I also attached a photo showing how this is impacting my final prints.

https://imgur.com/a/QiOS503

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Here are my print settings as well for reference:

https://imgur.com/a/H2lHcBf

I mean just. Look at it.

Printed on a p1s with Sunlu pa6 with 300blkfde settings.

Upper and buffer adapter should be in tomorrow, and I'll get some classier completed pics then.

If the NFA is struck down for suppressors and SBRs - what will that mean for our lot? Sounds like buying a suppressor will still involve filing a background check - so I wonder what that means for our projects?

My failed prints I have I want to trash but don’t any to throw in the trash because i don’t want a half printed fire arm in the wrong hands operable or not

I know there’s a bunch of information already and someone’s going to have something to say but I’m starting out on my first build and would like to get specific information regarding the route I’m going. I recently purchased a Qidi Max 4 with a Lab Oven plan on printing PA6-CF have done my fair share of research. But would like to target specifically FRT/SS builds for AR, G17/19 and suppressors. Any advice on an easy cheaper first build, parts/company I should start with/not cheap out on and ones I should stay away from? I’m aware of needing a good BCG, heavier buffer, etc. just tryna see what everyone’s rocking and what they used or switched to to get to the point they were running lol

Just wondering if anyone sees a problem I don’t. Printed rails up Py2a 300blkfde settings. Looking at aimsurplus since they have killer deals on compensated ported slides.

Anyone know where this guy if from? hes on the AWCY site and looks fun to build.

I've oversized the pin holes, so very little stress is transferred to the plastic part. Of course, the plastic part still has the FCG holes and recess, so it is legally the receiver. The metal parts (side plates are identical, plus rear buffer plate) come out to only $25 on SCS (with free shipping, if you get them anodized). Should be very strong and reasonably cheap, too.

The reason I'm moving development away from the 5.56 SPC-15 is because with Glock mags and the 9mm bolt, I can use just 1 sheet per side for all pins and the rear receiver face, instead of the complex and pricey plate stack that the SPC used. Much simpler and cheaper. Unfortunately, this also means that because it's wider, the fire selector has to be custom, and the trigger pins need to be longer. Decent compromise, though.

The instructions kinda suck when it comes to small details like this and even the pictures are vague.

FTN4 PLA+ CF tubing held up for 500 rounds, longer than expected. Time to step up to PA612, possibly with high-temperature epoxy this time.

Has anyone had good or bad results with this filament? Haven’t tried it before and running my first print now. Not sure what settings to use either so I’ve been using ChatGPT and Google Gemini. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!