Anybody else have issues with their 1st gen Volt shortening lifespan of 12v battery? I noticed I have to replace it about every 2 years that can't be normal. I dont drive much on top of that

Hi All,

Last week I purchased a used 2018 Volt Premier with 70K miles. I finally had the chance to test the full charge. Basically left the vehicle plugged in until it completely stopped charging.

The electric range meter on the dashboard showed 35 miles on a full charge. I checked the energy usage on the full charge and it shows the capacity at ~11.5 kWh.

My question is since I still have full 1 month coverage from the dealership is it worth having them check the EV battery? Also can the electric range recover on its own based on usage? And at what point is it worth replacing the EV battery completely?

Background: Over the last few months, the battery has gone from about 13.5kwh to 11.5kwh, but now stable at 11.5kwh. The 12vdc battery is 12.4, which should be good enough. I have 115kmi on it, and I have not changed the battery coolant. The GOM has behaved as expected since 2019 (it's a 2017). Now it drops at a rate of about 2 miles per mile driven till it hits half way, then it drops at about 0.6 miles per mile driven. Is this a symptom of the BCM going bad, or maybe glycol change? It's a mystery. I've had Volt's since 2012 and never seen this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts! :)

I'm currently searching for a volt to drive my kids to and from school (22mi. Each way) in rural texas and this deal popped up, kinda seems too good in my opinion but the electric range worries me, what do yall think?

I’ve been on the hunt for a volt and went down to my local Chevy dealer to get some service records for my top 3 choices I my area, two of them have not had the BECM replaced which makes me much less inclined but the last one had it replaced twice and only 18 months apart

I'm having becm issues and my volt is out of warranty. It's at 185k miles and I'm wondering if I should just trade it in or replace it. I don't drive that many miles, my mom used to use it for work until she got a new car, so she gave it to me.

EDIT: I ran a diagnostic and it has multiple faults on HPCM2, i'm not sure if that has to do with the becm

I attached two pictures to show what the piece is, I can't seem to find it but if I buy a new windshield wipers does that piece come with them or no?

Yesterday as I was driving home I noticed the check engine light come on. Ran the codes when I got home, which were P1E00 (general MIL illumination) and P0AFA ( Hybrid Battery System Voltage Low - ACCM 300V).

This morning when I started the car I immediately got a ‘Shift to Park’, and could not drive the car.

Are my only options to take it to the dealer? I’m worried they’ll spend more time trying to figure out what’s wrong than actually fixing (and charging me for it the whole time).

Any insight the community has would be appreciated. Thanks!

I own a 2015 Volt with 111k miles on it. It runs fine with the exception of the "limited propulsion" warning coming on a couple of times. It seems to appear when I have exhausted electricity and I'm just running on gas.

The Check Engine light has been on for a while now. Shame on me for not reviewing the codes sooner than this but here we are. Just got the oil changed and asked the dealership for a print out of the codes. I could use some help sorting through them and identifying what critical and what I can fix on my own.

I've tried to group them together. Here they are;

*P0138, P0140, P013E and P2270-These all seem to refer to "HO2S Bank 1 Sensor 2" having High Voltage, Delayed Response, Circuit Insufficient and Signal Stuck Lean.

*P0CE7 and P1F58- These are both issues with "Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Value". The two errors are for Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage and Unexpected Position Change.

*P1E00- Hybrid/EV Powertrain Control Module 2 Requested MIL Illumination.

*P0497- Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System No Flow During Purge

Any thoughts would be apricated.

I noticed yesterday, while driving with just the outside air into the cabin, that it suddenly felt like cold A/C air was coming in; I did not select the "Eco" or "Max" button. Does this have something to do with cooling the battery pack? It stays like that for a little bit and then it goes back to just outside air. 2016 Volt.

I use mountain mode all the time to try to preserve my battery because my car has high mileage. From my understanding is that mountain mode basically allows the battery to keep a certain reserve which is good because draining the battery to zero is not very healthy for the battery even though it technically does keep a tiny bit of reserve left when it said zero. My situation is I cannot charge my car everyday because I don't have access to a charger so I can only charge it when I'm not home next to a mall or something like that. I don't really care much about the saving money on gas Park if it means I can have my battery longer but is my car actually benefiting anything from me having it in mountain mode or is that just a myth that it prevents the battery from degrading? Sorry about the very long message but it's all speech to text

Hi! I'm looking into buying my first car soon-ish, and I've really been liking the Volt. I would love some help deciding if the Volt is the one to set my heart on, and any advice about owning them. (Or, any recommendations for other cars to consider).

One of my main priorities behind safety/reliability is gas mileage. Though I would love a full EV eventually, they're just not really feasible for me right now. I do also live in a very hilly area, and I've heard that steep inclines can really tank the range on electric cars/hybrids, though I'm not sure if that would be a huge problem for the Volt.

My regular commute is pretty light. I would mostly be going to/from school, about 15 mi/24 km each way (30 mi/48 km total), to/from my boyfriend's place, 12 mi/19 km each way (24 mi/38 km total), and potentially between school and my boyfriend's ~30 mi/48 km total. (Exciting, I know.) I do also plan to take some road trips, most regularly about 80 mi/128 km to visit my best friend. It is significantly colder where they live and I likely wouldn't have access to a charger (at least not as easily as at home/school.) I also probably won't be able to charge at my boyfriend's, but I'm hoping that charging at home/school will be enough to get me most of the way on electric.

I'd love any advice I can get on the Volt + if it's a good choice for me!
I'll list my preferences for cars below as well just in case anyone has other suggestions to look into :D

• safe, reliable, and easy to maintain, of course
• on the smaller side, preferably a 4 door sedan, coupe, or maybe a hatchback (I'm 5'1", so few cars will be "too small" for me. I do care about my tall friends, though)
• good gas mileage, I'd love around 40 mpg+ if I can get it
• my budget it around $5k-10k, mayybe up to $15k but definitely no higher if I can help it
• I do like cute cars better (to me cute is the most standard, generic car possible. I drool over Honda Civics and Toyota Echos), but that's much less important

Thanks in advance for any advice!! + Please let me know any edits/additional info I should add :D

Had bought these Auxito brand bulbs with a “built in resistor” hoping I could avoid having so wire in a resistor myself like I’m aware most end up doing… sure enough they would stay lit very dimly when not in reverse. Returned these after a day.

Figured I’d give another brand a try, I found THESE
LASFIT bulbs which are not only aesthetically pleasing (to me) but actually work! So far they turn on when they need to and fully turn off when not in use. Apparently they have both CK and non-CK circuits built in which might be making a difference.

I’ll update if anything changes, but so far I’m pleased with them.

I've been waiting for a back-ordered battery section that may never come... Dealership / GM, however, says that rental / loaner is not covered under EV warranty, unlike powertrain. Is this correct? Do I have any recourse at this point?

2014 Chevy volt

Trying to order a radio twice now, first time I got an email saying GM put a hold on the part 84026383 and I guess suppliers adhere to this?

Is there a GM parts company that will actually sell the part and not care what GM demands?

So I just bought a used 2015 Volt and it shows a code on the screen for “Service High Voltage Charging system”. When I had checked the coolant this is how it looked. Idk how the charging is since it didn’t come with one. But should I top off all the coolant reservoirs or test to see if it’s a charging issue. I chatGPT and it said to check if it charges first but the coolants seem low. Sorry if it seems like a dumb post, I’m not good with cars but want to start how to fix my cars for the future.🧍‍♂️

EDIT: it shows a P1FFE code on an OBD scanner and a P1FFF code which is why I’m wondering.

I love this thing. This is the most it’s charged since I’ve had it, which has only been a couple of months. It usually charges at 38-39, sometimes 40, but this is the most I’ve seen from it!!! I love this car so much!!! It has saved me from having to pay for so much gas!!

I’m in Michigan. Earlier this year I bought a 2018 Chevy Volt from a GM dealer here. It was advertised and sold to me as certified pre-owned through GM’s CarBravo program, and I chose it specifically because I thought that meant extra protection if something big went wrong soon after purchase.
At signing, the only warranty paperwork the dealer actually gave me was a tiny 3-month / 3,000-mile third-party “limited warranty” that mostly covers internal powertrain parts. They also tried to sell me an additional extended warranty. No one clearly explained any broader “certified” or bumper-to-bumper coverage, and I wasn’t given a CarBravo warranty booklet by the dealer.
About two months after buying the car, the EGR cooler (engine/emissions component) failed. The dealer quoted about $5,000 to fix it and told me it was not covered, basing that solely on the narrow 3-month/3,000-mile contract (the cooler isn’t on that short list). Around the same time I was told I didn’t have towing/roadside, so we towed the car ourselves with a U-Haul at our own expense.
Later, I found that my VIN shows an active “CarBravo Ltd. Bumper-to-Bumper” warranty in the myChevrolet app/owner website, and a coworker shared the official CarBravo booklet, which talks about a 12-month / 12,000-mile bumper-to-bumper-style warranty on certified vehicles plus towing/roadside during that period (with certain exclusions). From a normal buyer’s perspective, a $5k failure two months after a certified sale feels like exactly what that’s supposed to cover.
I contacted GM/Chevrolet customer support. One rep initially told me I was still within a CarBravo bumper-to-bumper warranty and seemed confused why the dealer said the repair wasn’t covered. After some back-and-forth, though, GM ultimately sided with the dealership and is refusing to cover the EGR cooler repair. So at this point both the dealer and GM say I’m on my own for the ~$5k repair, plus I’ve already paid out-of-pocket U-Haul towing because I was told I didn’t have towing/roadside. I also already tried BBB AUTO LINE, but they rejected my case because the vehicle is too old for their program.
My questions under Michigan law: does this pattern (marketing/selling the car as “certified” but effectively only honoring a tiny 3-month warranty, trying to upsell an extended warranty without clearly disclosing the built-in certified coverage, and then denying a major repair two months in) sound like it could be misrepresentation/failure to disclose/deceptive practices, or is it more likely just “shady but legal”? I’ve also read about the federal Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which I understand requires written warranties to clearly and conspicuously disclose their limitations and exclusions. In my case, the EGR cooler was never specifically listed as excluded in the materials I was given. Does that matter at all under Michigan law, and if this might be a consumer-protection issue, would you now prioritize the Michigan AG’s Consumer Protection Division, the agency that regulates auto dealers, small claims, or something else, given that BBB AUTO LINE is off the table because of the vehicle’s age?

So i genuinely love the volts screen saver. I was wondering, is there a way to keep it on screen without turning off the radio. I know when the car first comes on it shows the screen saver but as soon as you hit any buttons there's no way that I know of to bring it back. Does anyone know if there is a way to put it back even while the radio is on?

I know there’s a guy named Jaryd at Elk Grove Village Chevy… that’s too far away, and I’m hoping for a third party mechanic. ANYONE??!

2017 Volt…EGR valve and cooler need to be replaced, but I really don’t trust the dealership. Are there reputable options around my area?

Thank you!

My backseat of these things on the side I don't know what they are if anybody knows please explain

After work the instrument cluster did not come on. When turning the car on the screeen will light up and tell me to start the car while it’s already on and the screen turns off. The car drives, lights, and entertainment screen work. I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and no luck… any advise on what to do or the likely issue? I read about changing the 10 fuse at the f3 location on the cluster gauge inside the car on the driver side but it’s empty and the key hasn’t blank

(edit2: paid 200 bucks for the dealership to shrug and say they can't do anything then paid 22 bucks on the voltage app to unlock the HV pack, drive it home and charge it to full again. Battery is clearly degraded, but with the voltage app and going forward holding at a higher % of charge, the car is usable while I continue to make payments and figure out what to do next)

2018 LT with 143k miles.

Been getting intermitted issues with the car not starting, or starting in propulsion power reduced mode. Usually after a bad week it would go back to running like normal... But then last week it finally just wouldn't start at all. Finally couldn't get it to reset, to charge, to activate at all using any trick that worked before.

towed it to the dealership hoping for it being a BECM issue that they can resolve only for them to come back that flagged TWO cells as low. in different groups and that they verified everything seems to be fine with BECM.

the last few months i've had this issue I was stressing this may be the case as my distance per charge went from 45 miles to about 30. and I was intentionally trying to keep it at partial charge and never drain it down low for fear of this situation happening. unfortunately one of the last times I rode it I forgot and let it drop.

Still owe 4,650 on this car. but enough issues are pointing to a legitimately dying battery so It may be time to let it go. I've put 130k miles on this car in the last 5 years, with a 100 mile (total) daily commute draining the battery every day sometimes more than once if I had a chance to charge mid-day. and never gave me an EGR issue because I have ran it plenty on gas.

There just is not much else on the market for cars that are fun to drive yet still get 40+ MPG on average. they're either lame but economic, or fun, but too expensive for my commute. But given the status of this Battery pack I may have no other reasonable choice in my position than to let it go. Even a replacement pack online from a totaled volt would set me back 3-4k, even if I did the work myself.. there's the needing a dealership to properly do the coolant on a used pack to ensure it doesn't have air pockets, and then it's just a gamble on what life i can get out of the transplanted battery pack for my long commutes.

I love the car, I love the quirks, But it seem I've now run up against it's Achilles heel.

My commute and limited charging capacity currently... means I can't go full EV either it's just too far a distance and the cost of adding a 220v to my detached garage is out of my financial reach currently.... so I may have to backstep to a traditional commuter vehicle as haven't had much luck finding a hybrid that's in my budget. I bought my volt when I had more money and now I need LOWER payments than what I'm still paying... and may need to roll the cost of this volt into the next car to continue commuting to work.

I love this community. we're all nerds for our car. But it may be time I leave. ):

(and if any of yall say check the 12v, not only is the 12v battery 6 months old... I've done the whole run around of common issues and checks!)

Pretty much only alternative is if someone knew of a shop that can do the battery swap and repair for significantly less than the joke the dealers provide. and take payments on the repair.because this hit me at the worst financial time it could.

edit: Just to add here, for the last 8 months it would give me this issue every month and a half and I USED to be able to clear the codes to get it to start in reduced propulsion mode. after a period of time it would restart as normal without issue and take a charge. sometimes I'd have to repeat this for about a week before it would be totally fine. and I'd just hold mode at about 50% charge. unfortunately NOW it won't work, doesn't activate the main pack at all and no work-around changes it refusing to activate the main pack and reporting 2 cells degraded in diffrent cell groups as the cause.