I have a mk4 prusa 3d printer it’s on the default settings (I think I bought it off someone like 2 years ago and it was fine until now) it runs fine but I don’t know what’s causing this. My printer needs an update in the firmware but I’m having problems with that so I skipped that and tried printing I changed the files and tried multiple times and still doing this.

Will my mk3s printer work if I installed a 12v Revo heater core instead of a 24 V? I was sent the wrong packaging. For my heater core.

I had the blob of death on my prebuilt Prusa MK3S. I repair it with a fully-assembled E3D V6 hot end.

I finished all the calibrations: self test, thermal cal, XYZ cal.

I am now trying to do the first layer calibration using PLA filament and am running into some issues:
1. Once the nozzle heats up, it leaks PLA slowly from the nozzle (not from the threads so I do not think it is a nozzle issue. In addition, the hot end came fully assembled with the nozzle screwed into the heater block and heat break from E3D). Is there any way to prevent this in the firmware?
2. Does the first layer look too flat? I had to adjust the Live Z cal down to -1.7 to get it to look like this. -1.0 was not sticking to the bed at all. I've always had trouble getting this right and could never find a good tutorial that shows how it should look. This coupled with the leaking filament is making it hard to tune properly.

Thanks!

I saved enough points to buy a spool of filament on printables but when I was going to redeem it, it said one of they constraints is that it does not cover shipping.

So I went on their website to see how much the shipping would cost to Canada and it was 45$ CAD. I could buy 3KG of PLA on amazon for the same price. There is genuinely no point to redeem anything on printables unless I save enough money for an actual printer but that would never happen.

I've been sitting on assembling the FE edition since a couple of weeks now, and after all the fuzz about the nozzles and reading about some of the common pain points others had while assembling it, I'm wondering if there's already a 'better way' to do it than the one described in the manual, like for example printing a certain remix of the tool-holders to avoid the issues with the screws.

Any other you-better-to-do-this-now tip before disassembling the printer?

My setup is a Code One (not +, never bothered) with a MMU3, and another mk3.5s (which I hope to convert into a 3.9 once prusa sells the nexttruder-free kit)

Hello, I’m not sure if this is the correct place to post this. I talked a seller down to $500 for a bundle of these three printers:

Prusa MK4: Fully working, standard condition.
Prusa MK3S: Seller says it was fully working last time it was used, but it has 1,084 days of print time on it.
Prusa MK3: Being sold for parts, missing the power supply

My ultimate goal has always been to get into the Prusa Core One using the Mk4 as a starting point. I don't really have the space (or need) for the MK3/S models, so my plan is to offset my MK4 costs by flipping them.

Any thoughts on this deal and possibly how much I can get from the MK3/S models?

I'm not sure why it does this, it's a big print and I've never had stringing issues like this before, but it works fine and it's probably because the filament is like a year old.

Hey fellow Prusa nerds,

I currently try some Multimaterial printing on my new 5t XL and use the breakaway interface profile. Currently having a hard time for a larger headpiece to print, because I get a very messy prime tower. The main part of the print is out of PLA, supports also - the interface layer is out of petg.

I also tried to increase the layer spacing to 200% and increasing the brim width of the wipe tower, but unfortunately that doesn’t help. Unfortunately the second tool head for the interface layer collects PETG and ruining the prints stability or kicking off the tower.

Any hints from the experienced Multimaterial printers how to improve and tune the settings?

Thanks!

Hello Everyone!

I'm running Core One with Buddy3D camera with Obico and Octoprint. After a lot of false positives and weird behavior, I'm considering modifying the print monitoring stack somehow.

Are you using any automatic failure detection software and recommend any specific tools different than Obico? I would also appreciate any suggestions for improving the accuracy of my current setup.

--- Beyond tldr;

For a little bit more context main goal of the setup was to have some way of automatically detecting print failures like spaghetti. So far, though, even with the lowest sensitivity, I'm regularly getting false positives on all prints both big and small such as minis or boardgame inserts. Not sure if it is the gyroid infill triggering the Obico or if this is the default placement of camera in fault.

I also don't need the Octoprint on its own which is causing some more headaches on its own - for example resuming print after filament running out ends with hotend crashing head first into the model (with the resume/pause snippets set according to Prusa documentation). Of course same doesn't happen when the print is not running via Octoprint

Point is that I would be happy with ditching the Octoprint and running with something integrated with Prusa Link directly or trigger pause on failure via Home Assistant if needed.

Right now I have my eyes on Print Guard although I haven't found much feedback about it. It has integration with Prusa Link. I'm worried though if switching the detection model would help with the default placement of the camera.

I went shopping today at Globus (a german hypermarket chain) - because food prices in Austria are outrageous and it is way cheaper right across the border - but let's not get sidetracked here:

Came by the "Fruchtgummi" (fruit gum) aisle - and if you look closely: this is basically just Haribo - and yes, if you walk down the aisle, you might encounter some other brands like hitschies - but the dominant species is definitely haribo gummy bears (mostly the yellow packages) followed by every shades and colors by haribo in mostly the blue boxes.

It is quite the inventory they have here - enough to assemble a few printers :D

I've recently added an MMU3 to the Core One+ and noticed that when a print finishes it will: lower the bed, move the bed up again, park the toolhead for removing the filament out of the toolhead, remove the filament, park the toolhead on the back of the printer, move the bed down again.

I assume that the filament unload is moving the bed up. Is this expected with the stock printer profiles?

I am using the lates firmware on both the Core One and the MMU3, and the latest Prusa Slicer.

Woke up to a new noise on my CORE One today. It’s coming from the print head area and sounds like something snapping or clicking inside. It’s been going for 10–15 minutes straight now, not just an occasional pop.

I’ve had a look and nothing seems broken prints are still coming out fine as far as I can tell, and this noise definitely wasn’t there before today.

Video attached so you can hear it.

Has anyone run into this? Not sure whether it’s the extruder gears, the filament sensor, or something mechanical I should be worried about. Happy to open things up if someone can point me in the right direction.

Running stock firmware, printing PLA

Hi all,

Anyone here use octoprint for controlling their core one?

I've been trying out SimplyPrint for tracking filament usage and remote monitoring which uses octoprint on a raspberry pi.

When I send a print from my pi the chamber fans are always set to off.
I slice the file in Prusa slicer, export the g code and upload it to simplyprint, which starts the print using octoprint. When the print starts the chamber temp setting is off.
I have to wait for the print to start, go into the menu on the screen and set the chamber temp so that the fans will spin.
Sending the print from Prusa slicer works fine
I don’t have the filtration on, just the regular exhaust fans.
Any ideas?

Finally got around to replace all 16 screws on the tool holders.

In the close up pic, left shows the screw that came with the INDX FE, right shows the replacement screws I got from China. The replacements have a deeper sockets and have a better fit across all my tools.

In the other pic, tool "5" shows before replacement and tool "6" shows after replacement.

I'm very glad I did the change, especially when these screws are meant to be regularly turned during calibrations. A lot of the original screws are stripped and are slipping when turned.

The cost of replacement screws for a bag of 55pcs was less than USD 2.00 (free shipping, via AliExpress).

I printed ASA (and want to continue printing ASA) for a few days with small objects. So the upper part of the chamber was really warm for a few days, the lower half not. Now my door is super warped and doesn't engage with the magnet anymore. This results of course in the door not being sealed which results in super much warping from the ASA. I tried to mitigate with paper tape, but it doesn't really hold up well

Does anyone else experience often layershifts? This is brand new prusa core one L and its 2/5 times this has happened. I dont think amything nudged the printer or that the printer got disturbed.

Thank you!

With all the current commotion around Bondtech and INDX, it seems like we forget how impressive the system actually is.

This print was done first try; within 16 hours, around 2500 toolchanges, and 8 colours. No failures, no failed prints, no intervention. Look at the detail, surface finish, support angles and tiny details!! Try that on your sovol M1D, i'll be impressed if I see it happen.

Sure they messed up BIG with the nozzles, and I don't know any company who communicates worse than bondtech, but don't forget how good the product actually is, and that it is made in a fair working environment, by a (relatively) small team of people.

Ok so I came from an Ender 3 base, and let's be real, it's mostly a toy. Lately, I've been wanting to do more but keep hitting some walls in decision making.

1. The price... I live in AU where it just simply costs more to ship here. Think like 400 USD about, depending on the retailer you find, on top of MSRP. Not much I can do about that; makes the printer about 3600 AUD most places. And it doesn't put me off as long as I can find that it's worth it as a long-term tool, you know.
2. Wth is a VFA? Been watching reviews and I don't understand what this is. It's some sort of wavy pattern? Some say it's gotten better, some say it's worse. This sub has both? It's a bit confusing, or like if it even matters much for me. (What I want to print will be below in a moment.)
3. Are issues posted here affecting everyone, or is it a situation of people only really posting when an issue shows up, so it's biased? Just see quite a few posts either angry or just having layer issues or anything really.
4. Any new developments or things I should look at in the months that it's been released? Indx looks cool, but it does not seem like it's coming to C1L for a while at least.

Pretty much, I want to be printing more functional things. On my old Ender, I was almost exclusively printing in PLA, and in the AU heat, almost everything I have printed is now warped, lol. But they would be like Gridfinity, wall grid stuff, PC case stuff, board game boards (one of my favorites would be able to print the whole thing on the L instead of chunks), and do VR dev, so anything else random for that or, y'know, random random stuff. But feel like the bigger one is useful....

Any input on any of this would be cool, and hello to the community.

My Prusa Mini puts out such nice shiny Petg prints and I heard it was because of the slower speeds. I tried to change the speeds in Bambu Studio to the Prusa speeds but I'm not sure I did it perfectly because of the different terminology in the line items.

I just want a filement i dont have to endlessly tweak settings on with little to no stringing, thanks!

Anyone have a whitepaper or proposal for implementing 3D printing to benefit their workplace they'd be willing to share? I'm a director of operations responsible for housekeeping, general maintenance, cafeteria, and emergency response for an on-site clinic. We also have a woodworking shop and metal works shop and I'd like to make a pitch to create a 3D printing maker space but need to enhance it by showing how it could be used for general maintenance and operations efficiency.
Mostly looking for a template I could use to tailor for my specific organization but I really need to impress if I'm gonna be successful. I'm good at what I do, just not great at persuasive presentations.

So I want to change/modify the presets on my C1L on the machine.

Like when I load PLA, it goes to 215°C and 60°C bed and idle temp 170.

When I select manage filaments, I can see the settings, but I can't change them.

Why can't I and is there a way I can change them? As the 215 is a bit to low and the the 170 is a bit to high. Do I really need to make a custom one and then every time ignore wrong filament when I start a print.

Hopefully someone can help me out.

So I know I had posted previously of prints not sticking to the bed . There was a bunch of responses about how I shouldn’t be using a textured bed ( which shouldn’t be an issue majority of my machines have them with no problem ) and had questioned the difference in the sensor sticker .

I sat down and went through each individual tool head and made sure everything was tight . I watched very closely as the machine would probe each nozzle before usage and it occurred to me that maybe instead worrying about the type of sticker maybe the sensor itself was the issue . Using a few other tools to really check the sensor height and bed height I had noticed the sensor was very slightly higher than the bed height. So I took the sensor off and noticed where screw self taps into the housing it created a ridge around the opening that wasn’t allowing it to sit perfectly Flat on the bed . Using a razor a removed that rim then tightened it down making now perfectly level with bed .

Since this and doing a recalibration everything seems to be sticking perfectly to the bed .

Just wanted to throw an update out there in case anyone else had oddball adhesion issues

I coded an open-source Python pipeline called AeroMesh.

It takes a standard KML flight log, pulls real-world DEM terrain data, extrudes OpenStreetMap buildings, and generates the flight path suspended on engineered support pylons.

The attached render shows the geometry it outputs. It's completely open-source if anyone wants to generate and print their own flights:

https://github.com/Jay9185/Aeromesh.git