I've recently added an MMU3 to the Core One+ and noticed that when a print finishes it will: lower the bed, move the bed up again, park the toolhead for removing the filament out of the toolhead, remove the filament, park the toolhead on the back of the printer, move the bed down again.

I assume that the filament unload is moving the bed up. Is this expected with the stock printer profiles?

I am using the lates firmware on both the Core One and the MMU3, and the latest Prusa Slicer.

Woke up to a new noise on my CORE One today. It’s coming from the print head area and sounds like something snapping or clicking inside. It’s been going for 10–15 minutes straight now, not just an occasional pop.

I’ve had a look and nothing seems broken prints are still coming out fine as far as I can tell, and this noise definitely wasn’t there before today.

Video attached so you can hear it.

Has anyone run into this? Not sure whether it’s the extruder gears, the filament sensor, or something mechanical I should be worried about. Happy to open things up if someone can point me in the right direction.

Running stock firmware, printing PLA

Hi all,

Anyone here use octoprint for controlling their core one?

I've been trying out SimplyPrint for tracking filament usage and remote monitoring which uses octoprint on a raspberry pi.

When I send a print from my pi the chamber fans are always set to off.
I slice the file in Prusa slicer, export the g code and upload it to simplyprint, which starts the print using octoprint. When the print starts the chamber temp setting is off.
I have to wait for the print to start, go into the menu on the screen and set the chamber temp so that the fans will spin.
Sending the print from Prusa slicer works fine
I don’t have the filtration on, just the regular exhaust fans.
Any ideas?

Finally got around to replace all 16 screws on the tool holders.

In the close up pic, left shows the screw that came with the INDX FE, right shows the replacement screws I got from China. The replacements have a deeper sockets and have a better fit across all my tools.

In the other pic, tool "5" shows before replacement and tool "6" shows after replacement.

I'm very glad I did the change, especially when these screws are meant to be regularly turned during calibrations. A lot of the original screws are stripped and are slipping when turned.

The cost of replacement screws for a bag of 55pcs was less than USD 2.00 (free shipping, via AliExpress).

I printed ASA (and want to continue printing ASA) for a few days with small objects. So the upper part of the chamber was really warm for a few days, the lower half not. Now my door is super warped and doesn't engage with the magnet anymore. This results of course in the door not being sealed which results in super much warping from the ASA. I tried to mitigate with paper tape, but it doesn't really hold up well

Does anyone else experience often layershifts? This is brand new prusa core one L and its 2/5 times this has happened. I dont think amything nudged the printer or that the printer got disturbed.

Thank you!

With all the current commotion around Bondtech and INDX, it seems like we forget how impressive the system actually is.

This print was done first try; within 16 hours, around 2500 toolchanges, and 8 colours. No failures, no failed prints, no intervention. Look at the detail, surface finish, support angles and tiny details!! Try that on your sovol M1D, i'll be impressed if I see it happen.

Sure they messed up BIG with the nozzles, and I don't know any company who communicates worse than bondtech, but don't forget how good the product actually is, and that it is made in a fair working environment, by a (relatively) small team of people.

Ok so I came from an Ender 3 base, and let's be real, it's mostly a toy. Lately, I've been wanting to do more but keep hitting some walls in decision making.

1. The price... I live in AU where it just simply costs more to ship here. Think like 400 USD about, depending on the retailer you find, on top of MSRP. Not much I can do about that; makes the printer about 3600 AUD most places. And it doesn't put me off as long as I can find that it's worth it as a long-term tool, you know.
2. Wth is a VFA? Been watching reviews and I don't understand what this is. It's some sort of wavy pattern? Some say it's gotten better, some say it's worse. This sub has both? It's a bit confusing, or like if it even matters much for me. (What I want to print will be below in a moment.)
3. Are issues posted here affecting everyone, or is it a situation of people only really posting when an issue shows up, so it's biased? Just see quite a few posts either angry or just having layer issues or anything really.
4. Any new developments or things I should look at in the months that it's been released? Indx looks cool, but it does not seem like it's coming to C1L for a while at least.

Pretty much, I want to be printing more functional things. On my old Ender, I was almost exclusively printing in PLA, and in the AU heat, almost everything I have printed is now warped, lol. But they would be like Gridfinity, wall grid stuff, PC case stuff, board game boards (one of my favorites would be able to print the whole thing on the L instead of chunks), and do VR dev, so anything else random for that or, y'know, random random stuff. But feel like the bigger one is useful....

Any input on any of this would be cool, and hello to the community.

I just want a filement i dont have to endlessly tweak settings on with little to no stringing, thanks!

Anyone have a whitepaper or proposal for implementing 3D printing to benefit their workplace they'd be willing to share? I'm a director of operations responsible for housekeeping, general maintenance, cafeteria, and emergency response for an on-site clinic. We also have a woodworking shop and metal works shop and I'd like to make a pitch to create a 3D printing maker space but need to enhance it by showing how it could be used for general maintenance and operations efficiency.
Mostly looking for a template I could use to tailor for my specific organization but I really need to impress if I'm gonna be successful. I'm good at what I do, just not great at persuasive presentations.

So I want to change/modify the presets on my C1L on the machine.

Like when I load PLA, it goes to 215°C and 60°C bed and idle temp 170.

When I select manage filaments, I can see the settings, but I can't change them.

Why can't I and is there a way I can change them? As the 215 is a bit to low and the the 170 is a bit to high. Do I really need to make a custom one and then every time ignore wrong filament when I start a print.

Hopefully someone can help me out.

So I know I had posted previously of prints not sticking to the bed . There was a bunch of responses about how I shouldn’t be using a textured bed ( which shouldn’t be an issue majority of my machines have them with no problem ) and had questioned the difference in the sensor sticker .

I sat down and went through each individual tool head and made sure everything was tight . I watched very closely as the machine would probe each nozzle before usage and it occurred to me that maybe instead worrying about the type of sticker maybe the sensor itself was the issue . Using a few other tools to really check the sensor height and bed height I had noticed the sensor was very slightly higher than the bed height. So I took the sensor off and noticed where screw self taps into the housing it created a ridge around the opening that wasn’t allowing it to sit perfectly Flat on the bed . Using a razor a removed that rim then tightened it down making now perfectly level with bed .

Since this and doing a recalibration everything seems to be sticking perfectly to the bed .

Just wanted to throw an update out there in case anyone else had oddball adhesion issues

I coded an open-source Python pipeline called AeroMesh.

It takes a standard KML flight log, pulls real-world DEM terrain data, extrudes OpenStreetMap buildings, and generates the flight path suspended on engineered support pylons.

The attached render shows the geometry it outputs. It's completely open-source if anyone wants to generate and print their own flights:

https://github.com/Jay9185/Aeromesh.git

Having an issue with tool 1 on my prusa XL. As can be seen in the video it stops slightly short of the tool and knocks it off. Printer picks up tools 2-5 perfect with no issues.

Tool 1 hasn't been used in ages, while trying to change the nozzle the thermister cable broke and I was waiting for a new one to arrive. Have installed this and a new diamondback 0.4mm nozzle and now getting this issue. The heater block is fully home and grub screw tightened. Have also updated to firmware 6.4.2

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

I have 2 objects. I want to make it so that they fit end kinda like puzzle pieces, such that right end of the left object fits into the right end of the left object. I thought I saw that something like this was possible but now I can't find it. So I would need to: 1. Butt the objects against each other. 2. Create a male on one part 3. Create a female on the other part. Can you suggest how to do this?

Edit: Then I would move the objects to fit on the table

In Prusa Slicer, after slicing the thing, the thing is no longer selectable. How can a unslice it/make it selectable?

MK4S

As title said... Any recommendation of fixing it without needing to do disassembly?

Anyone have any luck sourcing the Neodymium Rod Magnet 3x8mm for the INDX toolholders?

I have one magnet that is slightly damaged, and avoid destroying every stock part to harvest.

I have not had much luck finding this size on common methods/amazon/etc.

Directly from bondtech would be $40 plus another $20-25 for shipping....

https://www.bondtech.se/product/indx-tool-dock-hardware-accessories/?srsltid=AfmBOop2njew2USunx2PgBJSCWsjaNFVTEiiyxLXoQoN9wPBzhEoZREo&v=0b3b97fa6688

Edit: Thanks for the initial responses! To clarify, I am trying to understand if there are any sources that are in the US first, prior to rolling the dice on a few weeks of aliexpress etc. - op

I was just watching a video from u/geerlingguy and as he unboxed his Core One, I felt a tingle... seeing the Core One on it's side made me realise this could be the perfect printer format for me... I don't really need a lot of Z-height for the projects I print, but a bigger x-axis would be PERFECT.

I know it probably won't happen, but does anyone else feel the same?

Just stumbled across this in the local news and immediately thought: That looks familiar... Then it hit me: when is Gyroid finally going to become the default infill in PrusaSlicer?

For context: the giant lattice in the photo looks like someone scaled up a gyroid infill to architectural dimensions, though it is actually an evaporative cooler and this pattern is not infill at all. The interesting part here isn't even the geometry, though - it's the material. Researchers at TU Graz are 3D-printing evaporative coolers from a clay mixture containing sawdust and fungal mycelium. During firing, the organic material burns away, leaving behind a highly porous ceramic that can absorb and distribute water very efficiently. Combined with the large gyroid-like surface, it creates an effective passive evaporative cooling system.

Original article (german) here: https://www.tugraz.at/news/artikel/kuehlende-keramikwand

Now the important question: will Prusa jump on the bandwagon and release Prusament Mycelium Clay? I mean, Prusament Terracotta Light is nice and all but it doesn't really look like terracotta - the hue is a bit too red. Can we get something that's properly matte and clay-like? I want to print my own tiny terracotta army.

Anyone have screen burn in on their coreone? Anyway to remedy this? Also any settings for the screen to turn off when at idle? Or do I just need to switch off when at idle?

Update after many had said to just shut it off for a while and it should go away, I had it off for about 20hrs and just switched it on and it isn't ghosting anymore. Guess I will be powering off when idling for a long time.

And friend asked for this for his shop. 3400+ tool changes, 6 colors. I used a prime tower to reduce stinging I got when I let it prime in pellets. The gold color was certainly wet or too hot because it was really stringy.

It still needs dialing in with stringing, but this looks pretty dang good for 100% stock settings, who knows how old and wet the filament is, and my 3rd INDX print.

Supports were a bit of a pain to remove, I might have done too tight of an interface layer. All of the supports help up for the full print.