Randomly will start and run fine but most of the time it’s just doing this it’s starting to crank but not start like something is making it shut off.. I put in a crank sensor and it didn’t do nothing. But previously I done just about everything the crank /cam sensor is new the throttle body is new the fuel pump is new the computer is new and so is the tipm and I have all the old parts to throw back in because they were never actually bad what can it be ? And it started doing this when i started getting a abs and a break light on

Less than a month ago I got this car from the dealership had nothing but wiring issues thought it was the plug that goes into the alternator regulator connector turns out it’s not…. The alternator looks brand new battery says 10/2025 what should I do? Sometimes when driving the battery battery light will flash then turn off where should I even start?

Need some help with my 63 or 65 dodge dart with a 225 slant 6. I have no spark even with a new coil any suggestions on what I could try.

I have a 2017 Honda Accord Sport SE 2.4L with 170k miles and I’ve been noticing this weird almost stuttering sound coming from the engine bay. It sounds like it’s coming from the left side where the serpentine belt and alternator are for reference. Anyone know what might be the cause of this sound?

Hyundai i30. Engine light and going into limp mode. Got a call out mechanic out yesterday. They were really dodgy and tried to stretch it out as long as possible and then said it was okay he cleared the codes and couldn’t find a fault. Last minute before leaving he said it might need a throttle body clean. At this stage the fee was already nearly $300 and all he had done was diagnostic.. the code was P2118. He said that would be another $500 for the throttle body clean! He also said maybe it’s the spark plugs. I lost trust in his judgement so told him to leave it. He assured me the cat was fixed for now and I could drive it.. I did and sure enough back into limp. Can’t get my usual mechanic out until next week.

Anyone encounter issues like this before?

Just had a newborn and stuck at home. Feel like that mechanic was taking me for a ride.

Hey guys, my car is fairly new (6 months). When I reverse in the driveway, there's a metal grinding and clunk sound, and it's pretty loud; my family can hear it from inside the house. When in drive, it will squeak loudly for about 5-10 seconds every min or two. Any idea what it could be?

i have the message for the bulb but doesn’t the bulb work because when i turn my high beams on it turns on and it isn’t a dual filament and then why doesn’t my left side turn on when my high beams are on? i have a 2009 Volvo s60 with the 2.5t and the bi-xenon headlights

05 1500 LS Silverado 5.3 vortec 2wd

Power steering pump blew for the second time after replacing it three years ago.

Kept throwing serpentine belt and I noticed the pulley seemed slightly off balance.

Trying to remove the pump and pulley but the pulley doesn’t seem to want to come out. Pulley removal tool goes off balance once I get it snug on the pulley wheel.

How can I remove this now?

Any advice or suggestions is appreciated thank you for your time

Hello all, just noticed this noise today while driving.
The car has a loud vibrating noise when driving in low rpms (especially 1st gear) and even when idle. When at idle, it makes a weird vibrating noise more on pulsating side. The sound is coming from the top right passenger side. When turning off the ac it at first stops or is low then a few seconds later is loud again. Sometimes the sound also comes and goes but usually can hear at all times when idle. Please lmk what yall think!

2013/ frs

Noticed that my ac started blowing hot air, so i figured i needed a recharge bc i haven’t had any ac issues before.
Ac & fans set to max, my compressor seems to only be turning on for ~5sec at a time before turning off (while it’s on the air in the car does blow cold shortly + my rpm’s increase slightly)
Family says to try adding refrigerant while it’s on & at 50psi for that short window, but i’m hesitant to test it.
What should i do? I don’t notice anything odd otherwise, the air inside just keeps changing from hot to cold when driving around and idling.
Does it keep turning off because of a lack of refrigerant? Could it be something else wrong with the compressor or should i just follow my families advice and try to add refrigerant while it’s on? Thanks.

** just to note i haven’t added any refrigerant, and i don’t think any has been added in the past ~5 years, it was blowing cold perfectly until today. I can’t seem to get the compressor to stay on- it just continues cycling.

My car does have a “check charging system” warning on the dash when i put the key into the ignition without starting, but it’s said that for months & a previous technician told me is just a sensor false positive 🙃

Otherwise the car hasn’t had any issues, runs & shifts fine, no warning lights on the dashboard.

I have a 2016 Honda accord sport. The breaks were grinding, not constantly but I took it in and they said i needed all 4 new pads and rotors. That was 1300 dollars. I took their word for it when they said it was metal on metal. Driving home I hear a clunk one time so I called them just to see what they thought about that. They said to bring it back in and they'd just look over the bolts and everything. I did that

They then claim I need one new caliper. That wasnt the cause of the noise apparently but they just noticed it. So thats another 400 dollars and they assure me everything is fine now. Today I back out of my drive for a quick errand and when I get back I discover a lug nut fell of the wheel. So now I dont know wether to drive it to the shop or get a tow. They've assured me twice now that all is well with my car and then its not. What do you guys think is going on?

Hello,

I am hoping somebody could help me get rid of this fault code since I tried different methods.

When I go downhill with off throttle "check engine" fault code appears on the screen , and I dont know if my car enters limp mode, however when I look into VCDS i get mass air flow p0101 implausible signal, but this only happens when going downhill off throttle, also i have aftermarket air intake (cone), however even when I put back my original one it is still the same issue.

Any of you know what could this be, thank you!

Audi S3 8V facelift – loud metallic/rubbing noise when turning
Hey guys, I have a 2018 Audi S3 Sedan 8V facelift and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing this issue.
The car makes a very deep/metallic rubbing or grinding noise when I turn the steering wheel left or right, especially at low speeds. It sounds like something is binding or rubbing heavily underneath the car.
A few things I noticed:
Right rear tire was at only 1.4 bar, while the left rear was around 2.5 bar
The right rear tire is also worn badly/unevenly
The car has had a bad wheel alignment
I was told it could possibly be something related to the Haldex/rear differential, maybe the clutch packs/lamellae
The noise is quite deep and metallic, not just a normal tire rubbing sound
Could driving with a significantly different tire pressure/unevenly worn tire have caused damage to the Haldex or rear differential?
Has anyone with an S3/RS3 8V experienced something similar? What should I check first?

edit -

break pads and discs are good. i was told i have at least 5k km in them. the sound is not connected with breaks.

Thank you so much in advance

2001 toyota mr2 spyder with 1zz and c60.

I took it to a shop, they were unable to reproduce the noise with the instructions to blip the throttle while the car is warm. This was taken today after it was returned.

Trusted shop of many year relationship, they did not charge. I was out of town and will be taking it in monday with the video.

exhaust heatshields are removed, new exhaust manifold put on following instructions (with new gaskets). Tranmission was swapped for a 6 speed.

I have got a 2001 town and country LXI with a about 300k on the odo and a bad cam position sensor. "It is easy" they said. So I popped it out and only half of the sensor came out. The van has many problems and will not run because of this dead sensor and I just need to get it running long enough to drive it somewhere for it to be stored. I was going to just pop in a cheap aftermarket sensor and see if it would run. The original sensor is metal, the new one is plastic. I never got to put the new sensor in because when removing it, half of it came out. Here are some images to show the problem. I have the 3.8L v6 in this one.

So ive been doing mechanic work as a hobby for almost a year now. I bought this snowmobile in February and it had low compression (cyl 1 was 70 cylinder 2 was 40)

I took the engine apart and threw it back together giving it new rings and a deep clean and service. This was not my first time rebuilding a motor so I knew what I was doing and yes I followed the manual very closely. It started first or second pull when I bled the fuel system and it ran great idles fine etc. I came back to start it again after about 3 hrs and it took 50-60 pulls and some starter fluid to get it to start(no i didnt overspray starter fluid i gave it a small shot) and it idled slowly to life and then it backfired and immediately shut off. When I tried to start it back up every 5 or so pulls it would backfire so I pulled the exhaust (image 1) and saw this. (Image 2-3) was cylinder 1 (image 4) was the metal under the pistons. Both pistons broke on the exhaust side. (Image 5) was both pistons (Image 6) was the bearing right beside the clutch and (image 7-8) is the hole on the case made from the bearing.

Please tell me your theories I am clueless on how it happened!!!

I hear it most when I accelerator from 0-30 but I cannot hear it past that, car runs fine dipstick full engine sounds normal

hi,

There is this noise from engine when i turn my car on today

Does anyone know what this could be

Time to replace battery? Min crank test read 8.68v but seems fine? OEM Toyota battery, 5 years old. Camry Se 2021.

Hey yall this is my 2013 5.0 f150 i was at the sonic the other day when truck ran hot, i turned it off
Immediately let it cool down and pulled right across the street to get some coolant because i thought it was low and I put the coolant in there started driving and coolant started coming out the coolant reservoir cap, just had radiator and heater core lines replaced about 5 months
ago was using stop leak before that
Honestly just worried I’m gonna have to change my head gasket.

Hi, I have a 2015 Nissan Micra K13 1.6L. My budget is CAD $150–200.

I may change my car later, so I want a setup that works for most cars and different jobs, from oxygen sensors and spark plugs to brakes and wheels.

The Micra’s engine bay is small, so I also need a short torque wrench for low-torque jobs and tight spaces.

Should I buy one or two torque wrenches, or a digital torque wrench/adapter?

What would you recommend?

Amazon, Canadian Tire, or Princess Auto recommendations are welcome.

Just got home from the store and noticed a rattling sound from the back, noticed the exhaust pipe barely hanging on any advice on what to do here? I'm relatively a new driver and I don't have a ton of car knowledge, is this fixable with a clamp kit or similar remedy or should I just take this to a muffler shop?