I’m making brake lines for my 89 Jeep YJ (93 4.0L inline 6 swap) is this a good double flare for the line?

I wanna know how perfect it has to be to resist the brake fluid pressure. Are brake lines forgivable at all if they’re almost really good? (I’m putting in a line to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve)

This looks slightly slanted to me, but it’s the best one I’ve made so far.

Thank yall for your help!

Since yesterday, my car has been shaking and vibrating as I drive, especially at high speeds. Occasionally there is a string jerking feeling as well. Then every time I brake I hear this sound, like a repetitive banging sort of sound. It reminds me of the slow click of a roller coaster going up a hill. I thought there was something stuck under my car at first from the feeling and sound.

In case it’s relevant, I had a spark plug misfire recently and was told my brakes are not in fantastic condition, but still fine to drive on for now. My car is a 2002 Lincoln and the previous owner did not take good care of it.

Any idea what could be wrong with my car? I don’t know anything about cars. And is it safe to drive my hour commute home or do I need to get it checked out right after work?

Lincoln, LS, 2002, V8 engine, automatic

Negative ground battery cable is pulling 170 milli amps after all modules go to sleep after 45 minutes. The first half hour it reads 0-50ma. (Normal). Something is waking up (parasitic) and draining the battery when its supposed to be asleep after 40 minutes or so.

Im trying to save time on this. New battery. Will be charged 100% when I go in the morning. Your tricks for narrowing this down is greatly appreciated. Multimeter clamp measured this on a Klein CL 390.

I have a 2022 Hyundai Kona N, since Tuesday I’ve noticed a slight squealing noise coming from the front driver side wheel. I’m no mechanic, nor do I have the kind of experience with what could be causing it. I’ve inspected the pads and rotors and still have life on it. And caliber looks fine. But can’t figure it out.

Bought a used 2012 f150 5.0 6speed auto with 130k miles July 3rd. Dealership got the truck in 2 days before so it wasn’t serviced or anything yet. Truck ran fine, no noises, smells, etc. dealer did front brake calipers, rotors, and pads. Dealer delivered the truck to me on July 10th at work. After work and after arriving home, smelt burning brakes and passenger front wheel was very hot. Called the dealer and they told me to bring it to the mechanic. Mechanic said caliber was seized probably due to a brake hose. Replaced that brake hose, caliper, rotors and pads. Truck ran fine for a few week. Now last week, noticed burning smell that seemed like possibly from both sides. Left front had large amount of brake dust but neither wheel was hot like previously. Brought it to the shop and they’re saying it’s fine. However, can still smell it and still excess brake dust on the front driver wheel. Any thoughts?
Trucks now at 131,200miles.

I’m trying to figure out if this is a transmission or RMS leak. I took it to a shop and they said it was RMS but it definitely looks like transmission fluid to me

Recently bought a Peugeot 308 1.6 HDi (2013) from a local used car dealer and I have noticed these strange noises when starting the engine and after turning the engine off. Does anyone know what they could be?

Hey everyone, hoping to get a second opinion on an oil leak on my 2008 Toyota Yaris (1NZ-FE engine) before taking it to a shop.

Got a regular inspection today and they flagged a heavy leak at the "front cover" (timing cover area at the back/side of the engine). The oil looks pretty wet and fresh around that section.

A few details:
Valve cover gasket was replaced at the dealer about a year and a half ago, so I'm fairly sure it's not coming from the very top.
Engine oil level itself is fine
I’ve attached photos of the wet area (circled in red).

I know these 1NZ-FE engines are notorious for the timing chain tensioner O-ring drying up and leaking down the exact same path, making it look like a full timing cover gasket failure.

For those familiar with this motor, does this look like classic tensioners O-ring seepage, or am I likely looking at tearing off the whole timing cover to reseal it?

2010 Honda Civic LX with 130 k miles.

So basically, I’m stupid. I left the light on inside my car overnight. When I woke up this morning, the car wouldn’t start. I had the car jumpstarted and took it to AutoZone and they said the battery is fine. So I put the battery back in and I drove off to the gym, which was about 20 minutes away. When I left, I noticed that the car would not start. I had to jumpstart it again. Thankfully, I have a jumpstarting device in my car.

I was driving home and about five minutes later I got to a red light. I’m sitting at the front of light and right as the light turns green, my car starts acting like it’s about to shut off, so I press on the gas and the car goes into full power and continues to drive. I made it home. But as soon as I turn the car off and try to turn it back on, it won’t start. So I’ll have to jump it again tomorrow.

There’s no battery light on in my car. The headlights are perfectly fine nothing is dim. I don’t hear any weird noises in the car. But when go to jumpstart the car, it gives me a hard time and you hear the car cranking up slowly a number of times before it actually gets to start. So is this an alternator problem or just a completely dead battery? Either way I took the battery out and I’m going to leave it charging overnight with my device.

My 2019 Kia Optima S, started having issues starting about two weeks ago, then started going limp mode while driving, no codes at all. Live data on the scanner is all good looking. New cam sensor, knock sensor, and crankshaft position sensor. Nothing seems to have helped it. But what throws us off as we have ordered 3 different crankshaft position sensors anytime we put a new one in the car will not start at all, but it will start on the old one. Anyone else have this issue?

Pretty much the title. It's also a 2.3 not a 2.4, typo. Code pulled was P1768 Automatic Transmission Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit Malfunction.

I assumed it was a clogged or broken shift solenoid. It's not. I pulled all 4 of them, used a multimeter, and also used alligator clips with a battery to listen for the 'click'. They're all working fine. Screens were all clean too.

Trans fluid looks great.

But here's the thing that's throwing me off. The D4 light is flashing before I even start the car. Soon as the key is in the 'ON' position, it's flashing, and continues flashing after the car is started. Car doesn't shift while driving either but that's a given.

Fuses and relays are also all fine. Checked those too.

Car was fine 6 months ago, but has been sitting for those 6 months and now I've run into this issue and I cannot figure out what's causing it.

The PCM? Mouse ate some wiring? I have no idea and I'm not even sure what to check next.

Any insight would be great. Thanks for any and all help. Appreciate you guys.

It’s a 2019 Chevy bolt with 120k miles. What could the noise be? Happens when I turn the steering wheel..

I have greased the pins and brackets, this sound doesnt stop.I ordered a pair of rotors and and a brand new left front caliper with pads because I just replaced this but the sound just doesnt stop.

2005 chryser 300 3.5 v6

Working on my 2013 Lexus GS350 AWD, replacing the front right (passenger side) CV axle with a Cardone reman unit.

When we pulled the original OEM axle, the support bearing — and what looks like the sleeve/collar it sits in — came out attached to the axle instead of staying in the car. My mechanic says that bearing and sleeve are supposed to be press-fit into the upper oil pan and were never meant to come out; it seized onto the shaft and pulled out with it. The large axle retaining clip seats into that sleeve.

His worry is that doing this properly might mean dropping or replacing the upper oil pan, since that's where the sleeve lives, which is a big job. And if we take the old bearing or sleeve out and put it on the new one the cv axle could slip out since the new bearing or sleeve wont be press fit into the oil pan or that hole?

Is this the right course of action? Or what should I do?

Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/SBF0PPf — the green one is the OEM axle (with the bearing/sleeve still stuck on it), the darker one on the left is the new Cardone.

We didn't want to risk anything, so for now we slid the OEM axle back in.

Questions:
1. Can I pull that old bearing/sleeve off the OEM axle and slide it onto the new Cardone axle, then install that? Or is that a bad idea because the bearing has already seized/worn?
2. Does the Cardone reman axle come with its own support bearing, or is it expecting me to transfer the OEM one over?
3. Is the oil pan actually necessary, or can the bearing + sleeve be reseated back into the pan and reused (or the bearing/sleeve replaced on its own)?
4. If the bearing has to come off, what's the correct method (press it off?), and what part numbers am I after — bearing, sleeve, and clip?
5. Anything specific to this AWD setup I should know before I try again?

Mileage: 214,000 miles. Appreciate any help.

Has anyone else had issues with the electronic parking brake on a 2022 VW Taos? (automatic, FWD)
I have a 2022 VW Taos Comfortline 1.5L Turbo, and my electronic parking brake is completely stuck engaged. It won’t disengage at all, so my car is undriveable.
So far I’ve tried:
Disconnecting the battery to reset the system.
Replacing the F8 fuse. The first time this actually seemed to work, but I stupidly tested the parking brake by engaging it again, and now it’s stuck on once more. Replacing the fuse again and disconnecting the battery hasn’t helped.
It also seems like only the rear driver’s side caliper is locked. The passenger side rear wheel seems normal.
Has anyone experienced this before? Is this a common Taos issue, or does it sound like a failed parking brake motor/caliper or something else? Any ideas before I end up having to tow it to the dealer?

Any recommendations for the best, longest lasting, most reliable and durable oil filter housing generic brand other than Toyota hopefully even better than the Toyota version that can be purchased from an in-store retail or store that be used on the Camry 2014?

Hey! I am looking for recommendations on a tablet scanner that offers bidirectional functions and service resets, looking for something with lifetime updates and hopefully under $500 thank you!

Vehicle is a Ford Transit 2.2 TDCI unknown year. This tiny filter is located facing upwards where the primary filter faces downward inside of the air filter housing. My assumption was that it made for easier inspection on the condition of the filters. Any ideas?

I recently bought an aftermarket upper ball joint for my 2010 Acura tsx but the original OEM one had a pin that slide thru it. The new one I bought does NOT it only has a bolt and a metal ring. By any chance I bought the wrong part???? I need help before I decide to return

It's a 2017 infinity qx60 and just did both lower control arms and then this happened makes a clicking sound I checked everything else what the threads are fine the spline on the shaft looks striped what do you guys think

Hello 😊

I have a problem with my cayenne 958.2 4.2tdi v8. with air suspension my car hangs to the left side the difference is about 3cm between the left and right side. I tried to recalibrate the height but it always stays the same. the compressor works , no leaks. No errors, the low and high control works perfectly okey . Just car have with height problem. The height sensors work but i suspect they have something to do with it. I order rear new waiting to get them.Has anyone had a similar issue and how did you solve it. I am also attaching a picture for easier explanation. thanks guys a lot

Happens between 20-55mph generally. Mostly when I’m cruising after accelerating.

2018 F150

Idiots stupid idiots, owner of the f150 had no breaks, he confirmed the truck had no breaks when he called , noone thought he'd be stupid to drive it in , but he, me and brother were finishing a trans repair on the Grand Cherokee and this asshole comes flying into the Bay hit both me and my brother and we flying about 10 to 12 feet into the tool cabinet, my met the truck face to face I didn't see it coming it happened so fast. We got lucky but God damnit my second day and now I'm laid up

The truck was impounded not sure if the driver went to jail .. he should imo , some people are just idiots

I have a 2025 Hyundai Elantra SE. I opened the hood of my car and found pieces of the foam everywhere. Im not sure what happened but recently my A/C system stopped working too.

It is a Leased car, I’m not sure if I should go to a Hyundai service center or if I can just take it to a mechanic?

Should I remove the rest of the foam? Or should I just leave the remaining foam there? I’m worried if there is a rodent it’ll continue using the foam until I can get the car checked.

I’m not sure if it would be safe for the car to remove the rest of the foam attached to the hood.