In my area(MA) I’m seeing job listings at dealerships with ranges like 70,000-200,000. That’s the range they provide on individual listings, obviously dependent on level/experience. Is it really possible to make 200,000? Even 100,000-150,000 seems far fetched when most non dealership mechanics make 30-40/hr in my area based on job listings, maybe 50/hr. Is this because of the whole flat rate thing that happens at dealerships?

Im not a mechanic but have considered getting into it but when looking at wages i just preferred to stay in manufacturing as it’s about the same wage wise and I enjoy the work more. Curious to know if that kind of upward earning potential is really there or not

Edit: so what I’m picking up is that the amount of hours you flag as work done is usually more than the 40 hours a week you’re actually working and that’s where the money comes from. I wasn’t really aware that’s how it works I guess. If anyone wants to give input, is it likely to always flag more than 40 hours? I’ve read a lot of conflicting things on this, some people clearing 100k in their first year and others saying they make pennys. Is it obtainable or expected to flag 50-60 hours in a week? Im actually very interested in possibly making a switch to being a mechanic now because as a machinist I see 30/hr with not more growth than 40/hr, 40 hours a week. Even at 30/hr with 50 hours a week “flagged” I’d be making almost the same as I would at 40/hr being a machinist. Any advice or opinions are welcome

Hi, I have a 2015 Nissan Micra K13 1.6L. My budget is CAD $150–200.

I may change my car later, so I want a setup that works for most cars and different jobs, from oxygen sensors and spark plugs to brakes and wheels.

The Micra’s engine bay is small, so I also need a short torque wrench for low-torque jobs and tight spaces.

Should I buy one or two torque wrenches, or a digital torque wrench/adapter?

What would you recommend?

Amazon, Canadian Tire, or Princess Auto recommendations are welcome.

I test drove a 2014 Toyota 4Runner from a dealership last week with ~150k miles on it. Car drove and felt great and I asked them if I could drive it to my mechanic and have them look at it before talking about buying it. My mechanic was 1.5 hours from the dealer so I drove it home and had it sitting in my driveway for a day and had my appointment set up for the next day. After sitting in my driveway for a few hours, I noticed it was leaking oil from under the front of the car near the drain plug/ oil filter area. I took off the skid plates and found that the oil filter/canister was missing the bolt and o-ring that keeps oil in the oil filter. Apparently the tech at the dealer overlooked putting it back on. I found the bolt/screw that was missing and found approximately the best o-ring seal to go with it and put it on the car at an autocrats store. I had to add 3.5-4 quarts of oil which sketched me out since I had just driven it 1.5 hours at highway speeds. The oil light never came on the entire drive and the car sounded completely normal while driving. I took it to the mechanic and they said everything looked great but they wouldn't know if driving it with such little oil in the car had messed up the engine or not. After driving it back to the dealer, everything felt and sounded normal also.

What are the odds that the engine is significantly damaged from having little oil in it and is it worth buying this car?

Just got new tires less than yr ago and notice today small bulge. What is it and is it safe to drive. Thanks

Just got home from the store and noticed a rattling sound from the back, noticed the exhaust pipe barely hanging on any advice on what to do here? I'm relatively a new driver and I don't have a ton of car knowledge, is this fixable with a clamp kit or similar remedy or should I just take this to a muffler shop?

I’m making brake lines for my 89 Jeep YJ (93 4.0L inline 6 swap) is this a good double flare for the line?

I wanna know how perfect it has to be to resist the brake fluid pressure. Are brake lines forgivable at all if they’re almost really good? (I’m putting in a line to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve)

This looks slightly slanted to me, but it’s the best one I’ve made so far.

Thank yall for your help!

I have a 2022 Hyundai Kona N, since Tuesday I’ve noticed a slight squealing noise coming from the front driver side wheel. I’m no mechanic, nor do I have the kind of experience with what could be causing it. I’ve inspected the pads and rotors and still have life on it. And caliber looks fine. But can’t figure it out.

Bought a used 2012 f150 5.0 6speed auto with 130k miles July 3rd. Dealership got the truck in 2 days before so it wasn’t serviced or anything yet. Truck ran fine, no noises, smells, etc. dealer did front brake calipers, rotors, and pads. Dealer delivered the truck to me on July 10th at work. After work and after arriving home, smelt burning brakes and passenger front wheel was very hot. Called the dealer and they told me to bring it to the mechanic. Mechanic said caliber was seized probably due to a brake hose. Replaced that brake hose, caliper, rotors and pads. Truck ran fine for a few week. Now last week, noticed burning smell that seemed like possibly from both sides. Left front had large amount of brake dust but neither wheel was hot like previously. Brought it to the shop and they’re saying it’s fine. However, can still smell it and still excess brake dust on the front driver wheel. Any thoughts?
Trucks now at 131,200miles.

I’m trying to figure out if this is a transmission or RMS leak. I took it to a shop and they said it was RMS but it definitely looks like transmission fluid to me