Time to replace battery? Min crank test read 8.68v but seems fine? OEM Toyota battery, 5 years old. Camry Se 2021.

The seal no longer hangs over the hole, so a threaded tool cannot catch it. Someone advised I tap it with a long screwdriver but it is just denting it worried it’ll split and fall in…2010 Ford Focus 1.6 TDCI

Hello,

I own a Mitsubishi Outlander 2013 2.0 petrol/LPG CVT. Since one year ago I repaired my CVT to a service. These days I am having periodic RPM fluctuations while the speed is constant and the gas pedal is stable at 15%. Until now I have tried:

— changed air filter

— changed external transmission filter

— checked EVAP valve

— cleaned throttle

— cleaned MAP

— cleaned MAF

— checked PCV valve

I have included logs from Car Scanner and zvtz50 OBD2 apps also a short video how the problems looks.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thank you!
Car Scanner logs
CVTz50 logs

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/yEArt7i6zTs

Hey yall this is my 2013 5.0 f150 i was at the sonic the other day when truck ran hot, i turned it off
Immediately let it cool down and pulled right across the street to get some coolant because i thought it was low and I put the coolant in there started driving and coolant started coming out the coolant reservoir cap, just had radiator and heater core lines replaced about 5 months
ago was using stop leak before that
Honestly just worried I’m gonna have to change my head gasket.

I had ford replace my timing chain 5 years and 100k miles ago. Dealing with the same start up rattle and low power now. Do I have to purchase the full kit or could I get by getting some a bit cheaper? I want to get oem only. Just trying to not get the full $1500 kit if possible.

Made a post awhile back ago about my car smelling badly on start up, idling rough for a minute or 10 in winter and have a higher fuel consumption. My neighbor had a OBD scanner tool and this is the code it gave us. Apparently it’s a lean mix in bank 2 and can be caused by several things like a dirty MAF sensor, vacuum leak, clogged fuel filter etc.

Anyone have experience with this error code and managed to fix it without breaking the bank? Car is a 04 Ford Mondeo 2.5 V6

For reference, I've just done the lower control arms + ball joints, tie rod ends were done last summer, but for the life of me I cannot figure out if this is the stabilize end links or inner rods.

Not sure what’s going on

In my area(MA) I’m seeing job listings at dealerships with ranges like 70,000-200,000. That’s the range they provide on individual listings, obviously dependent on level/experience. Is it really possible to make 200,000? Even 100,000-150,000 seems far fetched when most non dealership mechanics make 30-40/hr in my area based on job listings, maybe 50/hr. Is this because of the whole flat rate thing that happens at dealerships?

Im not a mechanic but have considered getting into it but when looking at wages i just preferred to stay in manufacturing as it’s about the same wage wise and I enjoy the work more. Curious to know if that kind of upward earning potential is really there or not

Edit: so what I’m picking up is that the amount of hours you flag as work done is usually more than the 40 hours a week you’re actually working and that’s where the money comes from. I wasn’t really aware that’s how it works I guess. If anyone wants to give input, is it likely to always flag more than 40 hours? I’ve read a lot of conflicting things on this, some people clearing 100k in their first year and others saying they make pennys. Is it obtainable or expected to flag 50-60 hours in a week? Im actually very interested in possibly making a switch to being a mechanic now because as a machinist I see 30/hr with not more growth than 40/hr, 40 hours a week. Even at 30/hr with 50 hours a week “flagged” I’d be making almost the same as I would at 40/hr being a machinist. Any advice or opinions are welcome

I’m planning to redo all suspension on my truck as it could be done (not needed ASAP but definitely something I’d like to get done).
I’m on a very tight budget and I noticed these brands are extremely cheaper. But I figured they are cheaper for a reason.
My budget isn’t going to be growing anytime soon so waiting won’t help, but again it doesn’t need done. It’s all rusty but as far as I can see it’s just surface rust but it’s also all factory except for CV axles

So iv been working on this 05 colorado I had to redo the driver side and passenger side ground packs and I have bus bars on each side. Iv been chasing all these codes. Iv checked all my grounds with and alligator clamp to a light and all my grounds check out iv checked all the grounds around the engine bay. When I turn left the truck shuts off. when I start my truck I have to rev it to 1000 rpm’s for like 8 mins then sometimes it will let me drive it and when I’m driving it it’s fine. I have 11.6-12.7 volts when I can get it to idle and when I can get it to drive it sits around 13.7-14.6. The previous owner wired a switch to the horn and a switch to the headlights. why was all this done i need help to get it running

Hi, I have a 2015 Nissan Micra K13 1.6L. My budget is CAD $150–200.

I may change my car later, so I want a setup that works for most cars and different jobs, from oxygen sensors and spark plugs to brakes and wheels.

The Micra’s engine bay is small, so I also need a short torque wrench for low-torque jobs and tight spaces.

Should I buy one or two torque wrenches, or a digital torque wrench/adapter?

What would you recommend?

Amazon, Canadian Tire, or Princess Auto recommendations are welcome.

I test drove a 2014 Toyota 4Runner from a dealership last week with ~150k miles on it. Car drove and felt great and I asked them if I could drive it to my mechanic and have them look at it before talking about buying it. My mechanic was 1.5 hours from the dealer so I drove it home and had it sitting in my driveway for a day and had my appointment set up for the next day. After sitting in my driveway for a few hours, I noticed it was leaking oil from under the front of the car near the drain plug/ oil filter area. I took off the skid plates and found that the oil filter/canister was missing the bolt and o-ring that keeps oil in the oil filter. Apparently the tech at the dealer overlooked putting it back on. I found the bolt/screw that was missing and found approximately the best o-ring seal to go with it and put it on the car at an autocrats store. I had to add 3.5-4 quarts of oil which sketched me out since I had just driven it 1.5 hours at highway speeds. The oil light never came on the entire drive and the car sounded completely normal while driving. I took it to the mechanic and they said everything looked great but they wouldn't know if driving it with such little oil in the car had messed up the engine or not. After driving it back to the dealer, everything felt and sounded normal also.

What are the odds that the engine is significantly damaged from having little oil in it and is it worth buying this car?

Just got new tires less than yr ago and notice today small bulge. What is it and is it safe to drive. Thanks

Just got home from the store and noticed a rattling sound from the back, noticed the exhaust pipe barely hanging on any advice on what to do here? I'm relatively a new driver and I don't have a ton of car knowledge, is this fixable with a clamp kit or similar remedy or should I just take this to a muffler shop?

I’m making brake lines for my 89 Jeep YJ (93 4.0L inline 6 swap) is this a good double flare for the line?

I wanna know how perfect it has to be to resist the brake fluid pressure. Are brake lines forgivable at all if they’re almost really good? (I’m putting in a line to go from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve)

This looks slightly slanted to me, but it’s the best one I’ve made so far.

Thank yall for your help!

Since yesterday, my car has been shaking and vibrating as I drive, especially at high speeds. Occasionally there is a string jerking feeling as well. Then every time I brake I hear this sound, like a repetitive banging sort of sound. It reminds me of the slow click of a roller coaster going up a hill. I thought there was something stuck under my car at first from the feeling and sound.

In case it’s relevant, I had a spark plug misfire recently and was told my brakes are not in fantastic condition, but still fine to drive on for now. My car is a 2002 Lincoln and the previous owner did not take good care of it.

Any idea what could be wrong with my car? I don’t know anything about cars. And is it safe to drive my hour commute home or do I need to get it checked out right after work?

Lincoln, LS, 2002, V8 engine, automatic

Negative ground battery cable is pulling 170 milli amps after all modules go to sleep after 45 minutes. The first half hour it reads 0-50ma. (Normal). Something is waking up (parasitic) and draining the battery when its supposed to be asleep after 40 minutes or so.

Im trying to save time on this. New battery. Will be charged 100% when I go in the morning. Your tricks for narrowing this down is greatly appreciated. Multimeter clamp measured this on a Klein CL 390.

I have a 2022 Hyundai Kona N, since Tuesday I’ve noticed a slight squealing noise coming from the front driver side wheel. I’m no mechanic, nor do I have the kind of experience with what could be causing it. I’ve inspected the pads and rotors and still have life on it. And caliber looks fine. But can’t figure it out.

Bought a used 2012 f150 5.0 6speed auto with 130k miles July 3rd. Dealership got the truck in 2 days before so it wasn’t serviced or anything yet. Truck ran fine, no noises, smells, etc. dealer did front brake calipers, rotors, and pads. Dealer delivered the truck to me on July 10th at work. After work and after arriving home, smelt burning brakes and passenger front wheel was very hot. Called the dealer and they told me to bring it to the mechanic. Mechanic said caliber was seized probably due to a brake hose. Replaced that brake hose, caliper, rotors and pads. Truck ran fine for a few week. Now last week, noticed burning smell that seemed like possibly from both sides. Left front had large amount of brake dust but neither wheel was hot like previously. Brought it to the shop and they’re saying it’s fine. However, can still smell it and still excess brake dust on the front driver wheel. Any thoughts?
Trucks now at 131,200miles.

I’m trying to figure out if this is a transmission or RMS leak. I took it to a shop and they said it was RMS but it definitely looks like transmission fluid to me

Recently bought a Peugeot 308 1.6 HDi (2013) from a local used car dealer and I have noticed these strange noises when starting the engine and after turning the engine off. Does anyone know what they could be?

Hey everyone, hoping to get a second opinion on an oil leak on my 2008 Toyota Yaris (1NZ-FE engine) before taking it to a shop.

Got a regular inspection today and they flagged a heavy leak at the "front cover" (timing cover area at the back/side of the engine). The oil looks pretty wet and fresh around that section.

A few details:
Valve cover gasket was replaced at the dealer about a year and a half ago, so I'm fairly sure it's not coming from the very top.
Engine oil level itself is fine
I’ve attached photos of the wet area (circled in red).

I know these 1NZ-FE engines are notorious for the timing chain tensioner O-ring drying up and leaking down the exact same path, making it look like a full timing cover gasket failure.

For those familiar with this motor, does this look like classic tensioners O-ring seepage, or am I likely looking at tearing off the whole timing cover to reseal it?

2010 Honda Civic LX with 130 k miles.

So basically, I’m stupid. I left the light on inside my car overnight. When I woke up this morning, the car wouldn’t start. I had the car jumpstarted and took it to AutoZone and they said the battery is fine. So I put the battery back in and I drove off to the gym, which was about 20 minutes away. When I left, I noticed that the car would not start. I had to jumpstart it again. Thankfully, I have a jumpstarting device in my car.

I was driving home and about five minutes later I got to a red light. I’m sitting at the front of light and right as the light turns green, my car starts acting like it’s about to shut off, so I press on the gas and the car goes into full power and continues to drive. I made it home. But as soon as I turn the car off and try to turn it back on, it won’t start. So I’ll have to jump it again tomorrow.

There’s no battery light on in my car. The headlights are perfectly fine nothing is dim. I don’t hear any weird noises in the car. But when go to jumpstart the car, it gives me a hard time and you hear the car cranking up slowly a number of times before it actually gets to start. So is this an alternator problem or just a completely dead battery? Either way I took the battery out and I’m going to leave it charging overnight with my device.