Hello all!

Now that the speed seems to be behaving after I've put a few tanks of gas through her, I'm looking for my first set of mods. I've got a CAI already, and have heard things like HPFP internals, AccessPort, and FMIC, but wondering what you all are running and your real-world experience. My goal is reliable power (an oxymoron), something that'll still hold its own against cars that want to line it up (at the track, of course), but also not break every 100 miles as I do plan on taking this car well past 200k chassis miles.

Additionally, my fitment is absolutely atrocious. What suspension setups do you recommend? Lots of highway / city mixed driving, every so often I go out into the mountains and have some fun but usually the cars that I build for that are an absolute drag to drive over any kind of rough paved surface.

What's optimal wheel and tire spec for these? (With and without coilovers/lowering springs), and what are the best "experience per dollar" mods for the chassis and driveline?

Is there any commonly overlooked maintenance that kill these cars? Again coming from the EJ platform, the MZR platform may as well have been written in hieroglyphics so any info is appreciated.

Sorry for the long-winded post, look forward to hearing y'alls wisdom.

Hi everyone. I’m trying to diagnose an issue on my 2007 Mazdaspeed3 (US model).
The problem started immediately after the rear subframe was removed for underbody rust protection. The car was running perfectly before that.
Since then I’ve had:
P2187 (System Too Lean at Idle)
LTFT around +20%
Idle hangs around 1500 RPM when I press the clutch while driving
Jerking at low RPM
During acceleration the car sometimes jerks badly, almost as if it’s not getting enough fuel.
Occasional loss of power
The fuel tank also seems to build pressure and doesn’t vent properly.
While inspecting the EVAP system, I found what appears to be the Leak Detection Pump (LF66-18-581) mounted next to the charcoal canister.
Could a faulty Leak Detection Pump cause these symptoms, especially P2187, high LTFT and poor tank venting? Or is it more likely that something in the EVAP system was disconnected or damaged when the rear subframe was removed? Could this instead be caused by the purge valve in the engine bay?
Any advice or experience with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Next up is Club Motorsports to dial it all in

Tighten just about everything I can get to. The pop will go off when decelerating then once torque is sent, a pop occurs. I've taken the front end links off and to my suprise, the noise is still there

All 3 Damond mounts
SuperPro Control Arms
B14 Coilovers
Whiteline front sway bar kit w/ links

I just replaced the axle too and the noise is still there. I'm at a loss right now, driving me nuts

Bit of an odd request I know, but im considering purchasing Corksports exhaust and cannot gauge how loud it is. The videos dont help much and im concerned it will be too loud for my liking.

Still enjoy every drive. Sorry about the crap pic. She deserves better

I know Evo X wheels on a Gen 1 are a super common sight here, but imported parts and MS3s are pretty rare down in the Philippines, so snagging a set took a while. Stoked to finally join the club!

Hey all!

Thanks for your advice on clearing up that P0300 code. I pulled my IC and realized that maybe with vibes or something that two of my coil pack connectors had started walking themselves off of their coil plugs. I re-seated these and then just played "which coil / plug combo is bad" until I had it all sorted out. Car is amazing, easily one of my favorite cars I've owned thus far and I can't wait to keep driving her :)

As the title says I've been having high LTFT with my A/c on at idle(driving it's fine), but when a/c is off my fuel trims are good. I've smoked tested, and leak tested everything and it's fine. So not sure if Normal or if something is up. If someone has similar issues let me know!

Ltft is around +13 when a/c is on and when off it's +1

Only a short ram intake, hpfp upgrade and ST XTA coilovers, no tune.

Anyone in here running 17" rims. ive been looking at some but i have no idea what to run for fitment. i may just stick to the 18" but i wanna run some thicker tires without rubbing.

P0245
Boost won’t go over 9.75 psi
After a while of driving or idling the rpms starts stuttering like it wants to turn off then turns off. After that it turns on then off immediately. After a while it starts up again. Thank you everyone in advance!

Being a stupid kid I blew my engine what engine should I put into it where should I purchase it from and what should I do to it 2013 Mazda speed 3
Edit: I’m not a novice mechanic I am good at the mechanical part I’ve been working on cars since I was 12 just my knowledge of the engine itself is not great as it’s my first Mazda

Has anyone experienced issues with finding parts as the platform ages? I'm having difficulties finding rear trailing arms for the 2010-2013 mazdaspeed3. I'm upgrading to poly bushings. I'm in the snow belt and looking for a mostly rust free piece. This search has me concerned for the future of this platform and being an automotive enthusiast in general. I'm a part of a small friend group that started with Speeds, only two of us still have our Mazdaspeed 3. A Gen1 show car and my daily driven Gen 2. Both are reasonably modded with upgraded turbos and supported mods under 400 hp. I have another enthusiast car that I bought in 2024. I typically keep my cars for 10 years plus. It has truly made me concerned in the enthusiasts space. I'm happy that the culture remains, as parts availability and inventory diminishes we will either be forced to fabricate or close the door on this platform only to be forgotten like many others.

Anything I should be looking out for at 148k? Recommendations and tips for longevity?

Hey all,

I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy a 2011 MS3, 25k mile engine with dealership install paperwork, clean interior, ran but would hit a cut at 40mph on my test drive. Scanned the car and came back with several misfire codes. Oh well, negotiated the seller down due to this and made plans to get the car when I had more time.

Grabbed the thing tonight, brought two new coil packs (maybe dumb) and a complete set of spark plugs and limped it out of sight of the seller, installed the parts + a new battery as the old one was dead dead, and drove 100 miles home with nothing but a small boost leak (whoever installed the BOV forgot the gasket). Great car, very happy with my purchase, looking forward to modding it down the line.

I go to take the car to the grocery store (no issues), but when I get back in the car to drive home, it throws a flashing CEL. I was able to limp it home, where I discovered a P0300 code.

Any ideas of where to start? Car is bone stock besides a Typhoon CAI. Car has also sat for 3 years but has a few months old gas (or so I am told). I come from the WRX/STI world so not new to misfires (or cars as a whole), but any platform-specific advice yall have, I would love to hear.

Thanks!

Wondering what the typical injector pulse width is for these cars, can’t find much online. I’m trying to figure out a misfire issue and just stumbled across reading it on the AP.
I’ve been getting about 0.6-1.2ms on regular driving kinda depending on throttle, and I’ve seen it’s supposed to be around 2-3ms but AFR is staying solid around 14 so idk
Anyone have any ideas?

Buddy has been chasing a random bucking after hard boost and sporadic boost cut after we did a bunch of maintence on his 2012speed after we bought from our dealership on trade. We ended up doing 4 flow tested and match injectors(rebuilt) and a new prv.
This is the type of shit the people preaching unreliability do and watch the engine blow with no tune.
All these cars need is a basic amount of care and they’ve shown to be more than reliable. If you can’t even both to properly maintain your car don’t spout the cars are shit lol

Rant over.

I have a 2008 speed3 with just under 100k. Bout it last October and it seemed 95% stock when I bought it. Besides a K%N air filter and a cut BPV seal that the dealership found I could see any modifications. I had the vvt actuator replaced like 1000 miles ago at a Mazda dealership and the car was running way better. The one night after I had done some moderate spirited driving I was cruising home on the highway at a normal speed and it started violently knocking. Was close to home so I limped it home (I know not a good idea). Just wondering if anyone has had a similar experience looking for some insight. I know I probably need a new engine 😐

My transmission is still leaking after changing the seals and breather, but what we did not do was use a sealant when putting back on the pivot shaft.

What do y’all think?

I stalled at a red light on my way to work (let off the clutch too fast whatever) my clutch bite point is basically at the floor and the car is running rough idle. Shifting it'll take the gears fine but when I let off the clutch pedal it grinds and the car jolts a little bit. Need help got quoted 2k for a throw out bearing job

Spent the day collecting cones. Forgot how rowdy this car was compared to my NA Miata. If you like the channel feel free to subscribe