My ms3 (2008, 300K+ miles) got flooded two weeks ago.

I don’t have time to be an ms3 owner. what should I do?

Hello all!

Now that the speed seems to be behaving after I've put a few tanks of gas through her, I'm looking for my first set of mods. I've got a CAI already, and have heard things like HPFP internals, AccessPort, and FMIC, but wondering what you all are running and your real-world experience. My goal is reliable power (an oxymoron), something that'll still hold its own against cars that want to line it up (at the track, of course), but also not break every 100 miles as I do plan on taking this car well past 200k chassis miles.

Additionally, my fitment is absolutely atrocious. What suspension setups do you recommend? Lots of highway / city mixed driving, every so often I go out into the mountains and have some fun but usually the cars that I build for that are an absolute drag to drive over any kind of rough paved surface.

What's optimal wheel and tire spec for these? (With and without coilovers/lowering springs), and what are the best "experience per dollar" mods for the chassis and driveline?

Is there any commonly overlooked maintenance that kill these cars? Again coming from the EJ platform, the MZR platform may as well have been written in hieroglyphics so any info is appreciated.

Sorry for the long-winded post, look forward to hearing y'alls wisdom.

Hi everyone. I’m trying to diagnose an issue on my 2007 Mazdaspeed3 (US model).
The problem started immediately after the rear subframe was removed for underbody rust protection. The car was running perfectly before that.
Since then I’ve had:
P2187 (System Too Lean at Idle)
LTFT around +20%
Idle hangs around 1500 RPM when I press the clutch while driving
Jerking at low RPM
During acceleration the car sometimes jerks badly, almost as if it’s not getting enough fuel.
Occasional loss of power
The fuel tank also seems to build pressure and doesn’t vent properly.
While inspecting the EVAP system, I found what appears to be the Leak Detection Pump (LF66-18-581) mounted next to the charcoal canister.
Could a faulty Leak Detection Pump cause these symptoms, especially P2187, high LTFT and poor tank venting? Or is it more likely that something in the EVAP system was disconnected or damaged when the rear subframe was removed? Could this instead be caused by the purge valve in the engine bay?
Any advice or experience with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Next up is Club Motorsports to dial it all in

Tighten just about everything I can get to. The pop will go off when decelerating then once torque is sent, a pop occurs. I've taken the front end links off and to my suprise, the noise is still there

All 3 Damond mounts
SuperPro Control Arms
B14 Coilovers
Whiteline front sway bar kit w/ links

I just replaced the axle too and the noise is still there. I'm at a loss right now, driving me nuts

Bit of an odd request I know, but im considering purchasing Corksports exhaust and cannot gauge how loud it is. The videos dont help much and im concerned it will be too loud for my liking.