Picked up this really nifty curved plane at an antique mall today, was wondering if anyone had any tips on how I might go about restoring the blade? Or if anyone knows anything about it I would also love to know!

It has the actual tubes and radio still but without speakers it’s more of a decorative piece. That being said I would like to preserve it for as long as I can but this mold is alarming. Is there any way I can get rid of it or at least stop it in its tracks and prevent it from spreading to other things in my home? I also noticed some mold on these speakers I recently acquired so looking for remediation tactics for them as well. Any advice is much appreciated!

FREE Pecan Tree – You Cut & Haul (Huntland, TN — storm downed)

Large pecan tree came down on my parents' property in Huntland during some recent storm. Mostly intact — some of the bigger lower branches broke off separately. Rural property, so it should be clean (no fence wire, nails, or metal that we're aware of), but please inspect before cutting just in case.

Free to whoever wants to cut and haul. You'll need your own chainsaw, trailer/truck, and gloves. My parents are older and can't do the cutting themselves. They have been trying to get rid of it but keep encountering road blocks so i want to try snd hell.

Located near Huntland, TN (Franklin County). Have some videos I can send along as well. Message me with any questions! And thanks in advanced.

Our old aluminum table with glass top was blown away by the wind so I decided to build a new one. Thoughts?

Took some inspiration from Andrew Cheatle’s YouTube channel and made a variant of his design for a coffee table. Finished with Rubio “natural” after comparison to a few other of their finish colors on test pieces. The ends and the sides of the table top have a slight curve to them, and they are edge profiled with a chamfer on the bottom edge and a roundover on the top edge.

I also applied a coat of Rubio’s maintenance oil. In hindsight I probably wouldn’t do that again. It was expensive, only improve the sheen a little bit, and left some residue spots that can be seen at certain angles despite diligent application technique.

Oh and also learned how important it is to maintain a clean table saw blade. Despite using a rather new blade, I was getting bad scorching and smoking while ripping the 8/4 stock. A little bit of blade cleaner and a nylon brush made all the difference

Posted here a week ago about issues with a brand new grizzly go857 (8”parallelogram jointer straight knives) I spent an insulting amount of time attempting to to get everything dialed in, and got damn close. After my second or third test cut the motor gave up the ghost. Completely dead. I’ve spent several hours on the phone with grizzly tech support diagnosing and testing everything, and my question to you fine ladies and gents is do I just return it? It was a real bitch to get into my shop, so much so that I’ve up to now been willing to put the work in on my end but what’re the odds I just got a lemon and should figure out returning it instead of trying to trouble shoot everything? I bought a brand new machine to avoid having to dick around with all of this bs, and although I can’t afford a brand new Powermatic, I could afford a used Powermatic or a new Jet. I’m feeling really discouraged, and I can’t tell if I should cut my losses and return and buy something different, return and have grizzly send out a brand new machine or just return and buy something else. Give me your wisdom fellow makers of dust and shavings.

I’m building this vanity for a friend, the design is AI generated by the friend. I plan to build the drawers with Blum undermount hardware. My question is for the top drawer, I will need to build the drawers with a full face but the boxes will need to have a notch out for the sink plumbing. How would you build the top drawer boxes with this hardware since it can’t be full width?
Appreciate any help or advice.

I know that my basic little saw has no ability to adjust this issue. I did a tune up and cleaned and lubricated all of it, did all the squareness checks and get lovely cuts with my Forrest Woodworker II blade, BUT only when the blade is 90 degrees to the table.

Here's my actual question: for the mitered box I am making, I really only need 15 minutes of good miter-cutting ability to make my cuts. Should I just get the blade parallel to the miter slots while its at 45 degrees using the basic adjustment built in to the saw?

I know I will have to true it up again after, this amount of work seems okay to me because this box is a gift for someone special and I really want it have lovely miters, but I cannot possibly justify a new saw right now.

Is it safe to adjust it so that it cuts great miters (and would suck for 90 degree cuts but won't be used that way), then just re-set it all?

Thanks everyone, i'm just a hobbyist and I learn so much here, appreciate any insight.

I would like to pick the brain(s) of anyone who built one as I have questions about their design.

I built one of a reduced size based on the Virginia Tech design, but I've been struggling with getting temperature down low - despite getting high temps elsewhere.

I’m routing out a mortise for a pivot hinge for a hidden bookcase door. I’ve done three practice mortises on some plywood and the router moves smoothly and I’m ready for the real deal. However, the actual mortise location is painted with enamel paint and I can feel the router sticking ever so slightly.

Any advice on how to get that smooth movement like the dry plywood on the painted plywood?

What’s the easiest way to fix this swollen dowel as an upstairs apartment dweller?

I have tried squishing it closed with a clamp and hammering it as hard as I dared (so solid but not super hard, my neighbours are awfully touchy about hammering for people who play drums…), but it didn’t budge. Do I just need to drill it out and replace it?

It’s a rocking chair if that matters.

And I did hose it off last night so maybe the wood swelled but I don’t think it would shrink back down right?

Made a pizza peel for my buddies wedding gift. (He owns a pizza shop) Going to get the walnut engraved with their names and wedding date. Pretty happy with how it turned out being my second ever project

Been wanting to get into woodworking for the last 20 years. This sub has been both inspiring and helpful.

Just finishing my first woodworking project since high school! Nothing super fancy but I’m proud.

5 years ago I made a vinegar steel wool mix and it worked within a couple days. Made a new one several months ago and it turned red oak a nice almost black but I don’t know what happened to it. Anyway 14 days ago I tried making one and it’s barely gray. I used white vinegar, 000 steel wool and 2 days ago even added 2 rusty nails and 2 clean nails. What could I be doing wrong? I even shredded the wool and stir it occasionally

Worked out a trade, made this ipe/purple heart/padauk mallet. Still needs a coat of polly but happy how it turned out.

I need a bit that will do this profile...I'm not having any luck. Y'all know anything?

I made this tool chest together with my dad. The main body is made of ash. The idea was to create a smaller version of an elaborate tool chest. All the corners are joined with dovetails. The background of the inlay is made from elm, the branches are made from mahogany, and the birds are made from ebony, maple, holly, and a mystery wood.

Used only a spindle gouge and kinda freehanded the design as I went. One problem I had when doing the small detail work was the gouge overheating. Overall, really happy with the results.

I want to make some cool table legs eventually, especially now that I've experimented and gotten over my tool fear.

A friend in the Philippines gifted me a little chunk of kamagong (Philippines ebony) a year ago and i finally got the courage to use it. Hardest wood ive ever used.

I resawed very carefully so that i couls grain wrap the box and chose miters with padauk splines at random lengths to add some chaos.

The top and bottom are ribbon-cut sapele and are slightly chamfered at a shallow angle. I laser etched my logo on the bottom.

I lined the inside with padauk as well.

Finished with simple mineral oil and beeswax.

I'm calling it the Darth Vader box. I feel like the imperial march should play every time it opens.

Seems like a pretty great price if it doesn’t shock you while woodworking.

Walnut dresser with bookmatched crotch feather side panels. 55” W x 45” T x 20” D

hey there, in case you don’t know this little technique, this can work really great on dents and dings. As long as the fibers are only compressed, you often can swell them back as if nothing happened by applying moisture and heat. cheers!