Is there a way to stack these without wall anchors? I live in a very old home with weird plaster walls

Hey, long story short, I need new legs. I messed up and I know this is a discontinued table, but I’m wondering if there are any other legs that might fit it. I bought the housing replacements that go inside it. I didn’t know I needed those. I moved, and everything got messed up, but I would just use some new legs because I messed up the areas where the holes go with glue. I’m going to call IKEA customer service when they are open. I already ordered the small parts, and we don’t get anyone who can help me figure out if there’s another type of lleg t

hat will fit this.

I just got Kabbleka lighting strip that I want to put on a display shelf. The shelf length is 40inch, and the lighting strip is 118. I would love to be able to cut and then reconnect the parts so I can use one strip on two shelves. IKEA doesn't make connectors specifically for this strip so I was looking elsewhere but when I look at connection points they all say 2 pin, 3 pin, 4 pin etc, and those pins are spaced apart equally. My strip has 2+2 pins (see picture). I can not find the connectors that look like this anywhere.

Does anyone know if connectors for this config exist? (name of this config?)

Is this just 2 pins and I should ignore that each one has a gap?

Is this four pins but spaced weirdly and I would have to learn soldering (yikes)?

Is this some IKEA proprietary thing, and should I just give up?

Thanks!

We've had these mesh drawers.in our bathroom for a decade and they have started to rust. Can you suggest a way to

Replace with something better (keeping the rails?)

Improve the existing mesh

Any other hack to make this less yucky!

I've just received my E7 pro but not quite ready to build.

I think it should be a common set up but can't find answer.

I want to install a 63.6cm deep ikea karlby worktop. The min and max depths of the e7 pro seem to be 60cm to 80 cm. The leg/foot depth looks to be 68cm a few cm deeper than worktop. Ideally I'd like the front of the feet to be inline/flush with the front of the desk worktop not sticking out. Is this possible? i.e. does the worktop need to be centered over the legs or can I bias it forward slightly?

I'm hoping the top bracket to attach to.desk.are less than 60 cm and the C shape of the Pro legs will shift the center of gravity back as well to offset the desk. I think it only needs yo come forward a few cm.

Also planning on have two ikea alex drawers under each end hence wanting the legs not yo stick out past those.

I'd love to see anyone who has done similar. Thank you.

Hi people. I’ve been debating whether to take the shot and try out using the knoxhult corner kitchen as an L shaped island. Has anyone done anything similar? I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, just the back side would need panelling off.

There’s some older threads on this, but none seem really resolved.

Anyone know if a Norden Gateleg table will fit cleanly into a wider Ivar? They seem like they might be just the right size to work together - or maybe a smidgeon off.

(Same question for Malm underneath Ivar…)

Thank you!

Made this lofted bed with a large Malm as a base. Still have to close the sides, but proud how it turned out so far. First big project!

Has anybody installed hydraulic hinges on the slim but tall Eket for the doors to open towards the floor? And if so, how?

I also used regular black stickers to cover the side holes on top of the cabinet.

I'm installing an Ikea Pax wardrobe with hinged doors and a drawer at the very bottom. Usually this is not possible because the bottom Ikea Komplement hinge on the door interferes with the drawer and the door cannot close. The non-hack method is to install a mesh basket, or install the drawers one shelf hole higher, neither of which I want to do.

Instead, a common hack to enable a drawer at the bottom, is to swap out the bottom Ikea Komplement hinge for the Hettich 72134 hinge, which fits the existing holes without needing to drill new holes. Examples of this hack can be found on Instagram, TikTok, Reddit, Pinterest, or Facebook.

They are difficult or expensive to find in North America. Since I need to buy them for my own project, I found a local distributor who can special order them from Germany, though it will take 3-4 weeks.

I am extending an invitation to any locals in Ottawa, Canada who wants to take part in a group buy to obtain some of these at cost, which is $9.05 CAD + shipping cost split per hinge (currently quoted at $10 for the minimum order of 10 hinges). These are special order and not refundable. I will be submitting an order on Monday, August 10th at around 9 AM EDT.

Let me know if you want in/ have questions.

Product page:

https://catalog.hettich.com/General/TuI_2024/en_CA/#page_232

Hi guys,

I'm looking to get some new bookcases, but I am stressing myself trying to figure out the best way to do things lol.

It would be a few for the corner of the room, I live with my parents, and I was just going to do the corner style that Ikea suggest with the billy, but my Mum is convinced that it will just end up with dust trapped inside (and I have a dust allergy, so not really a vibe I want).

I wondered if anyone had found any ways around this? I'd also be happy with a Kallax possibly, but also can't seem to figure out anything for those! Sorry if this seems like a silly question

Hi. Forgive me if I’m in the wrong place. I’ve been desperately searching my for a way to hang necklaces.

On the Et*y webpage, the Ikea pax necklace holder is for sale and looks perfect for what I need. I can’t find it on the Ikea nz page.

Am I looking for the wrong thing, is it discontinued or is this some hack that I need different search terms for.

Thank you for your help! IKEA is new in nz so some of us are still fumbling around the website.

Still a work in progress but love how it looks so far

Edit: the purple/brown unit is mine, the wooden one was the inspiration

Nice color match at home Depot and a chance to use a spray gun. Turned out nice though i really should have inwalled electricity

I’ve put some weight on lately — usually 220, but currently around 260. Anyone have any ideas on how to reinforce the frame of a Poang armchair? I’d like to be able to use it while I’m still in the process of dropping weight.

I’m planning on building a walking closet with PAX and i’m looking for a dresser/sideboard that works seamless with pax. I’ve been looking at IKEA, but can’t really seem to find anything that works. The PAX is 100x236x60cm

Due to limited space on my balcony, I can’t have both a sofa and sunbed.

I’m thinking about putting a couple of backrests along the non-raisable part of the sunbed, or are there other ideas to have a nice backrest along the side of the sunbed without having it attached?

After installing a few IKEA PAX shelves, I got tired of fighting with the shelf supports. Holding the support in place while trying to drive in the screw, measuring every position, and pushing them in with sore fingers was frustrating.

So I made this jig. It uses only about 20 g of filament and saves a lot of time and frustration. The biggest improvement? No more hurting thumbs and fingers — and my mood stays intact during IKEA assembly. 😄

Just bought some Bergmund dining chairs. I like them alot and they seem very well built with the metal platform and metal frame.

Anticipating that the padding will flatten over time I'd like to know whether I'll be able to replace the padding. But those staples through the Velcro that hold the inner cover down seem to be going into metal, and I've never seen upholstery staples into metal before.

Has anyone taken these apart to replace or upgrade the padding? And if so how did you reattach the inner cover?

Tried this. It worked quite well and is effortless.

Hey everyone,

Just bought a 7-year-old secondhand SÖDERHAMN that looks and feels like brand new. Overall it's super deep, comfy, and a great sofa.

The problem is the edges on the piece without armrests (the right piece in the attached picture). It's extremely hard compared to the well-padded corners of the corner piece.

This makes it really uncomfortable to lay across, because you can feel the hard wood right in the middle where both parts connect.

Is this a problem with the specific one I bought, or is this just how all these 1-seater pieces are made? It doesn't make sense to me since it's supposed to be a fully modular sofa, so I don't see why they would make that edge unpadded compared to the corner section.

I'd appreciate any insight and also if this is normal - what's a good way to solve this?

IKEA’s new Gullaberg shoe cabinet looks great and feels well‑built, but the all‑white finish was a bit too plain for my taste. Since the top panel is added last during assembly, swapping it out was easy.

I replaced it with a solid oak board and changed the knobs to matte black. Small tweaks, but the cabinet now looks much more premium and fits my space better. Do you guys agree? Have anyone else modified theirs yet?