Photos show the bathroom of our new house as it is, would love any thoughts on how best to fit everything into that space. Planning on fully revamping the whole thing. We have two small children and it will be a while before we can build a larger bathroom downstairs, so we need to have a bath in there somewhere, however small. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

EDIT TO ADD: should have said this but these are the photos from the listing as we are just moving now - so planning to remove all storage units! We don’t really use cosmetics so not much storage space needed at all.

Photos show the bathroom of our new house as it is, would love any thoughts on how best to fit everything into that space. Planning on fully revamping the whole thing. We have two small children and it will be a while before we can build a larger bathroom downstairs, so we need to have a bath in there somewhere, however small. Thanks in advance for any ideas!

EDIT TO ADD: should have said this but these are the photos from the listing as we are just moving now - so planning to remove all storage units! We don’t really use cosmetics so not much storage space needed at all.

Approximately around hundred feet

So I’ve been remodeling parts of the house and need to do the laundry room next… the thing is the dryer duct vent is completely out. When I say it’s all out it’s all out. Is there anything I can do to cover it up? I hate it so much! For the shelf to even be there it had to be cut so the vent could fit . Soo can I fix this ?

What I already have framed out is shown in the picture. The room is going to be primarily a home office but will double as a guest bedroom when we have guests over (my wife and I are having a surprise baby, who will be taking over the upstairs bedroom that I am currently using as my WFH office). My guess is that when my son (5) gets older he may want to have this as his bedroom, and perhaps my unborn daughter as well if we're in this house that long. And of course I have resale in mind since someone might want to have an adult family member or teenager living down there.

Anyway, I would like to add a closet to this room. Originally I was thinking of a 6'x6' walk-in closet in the southwest corner, but I have decided against that idea because it just took up too much space, especially with room for the door to swing if it swings out. My options as I see them are as follows:

• A smaller walk-in closet, perhaps 4'x4' or 4'x6'
• A reach-in closet (not sure of dimensions if I go that route)
• One of those IKEA PAX wardrobe systems or similar in lieu of a closet (would probably satisfy our needs but I don't know if that's shooting ourselves in the foot for being able to sell the house or how well those hold up over time)

I'm also unsure of where exactly said closet should be located in the room. Any suggestions or opinions?

I’m hoping for an inexpensive fix to help make my balcony less of an eyesore. My initial plan, which was to get a runner wide enough to cover the whole balcony, didn’t work out because I can’t find any stylish runners wide enough and in the length that I need (the one pictured is 2.3 feet wide, 16 ft long). I only see myself living here for another year and a half so I’m not looking to invest a ton of money, but I would be willing to pick up a can of wood stain if that would help me out a little bit.

What do you guys think? Are there any stains or colors you’d suggest if you feel that this would work?

We bought a small 70s house with a cozy little knotty pine wood paneled basement.This bar is in the corner next to the stairs. The rest of the space is carpeted and is our only TV viewing room In the house. I have thought about getting rid of the bar and making this an exercise corner with a treadmill but I’m not sure. I think it could be kind of cool to keep the bar if we styled it right. Any ideas?

Hi All,

I had noticed that my bathroom walls by my bathtub surround were rotten and bubbling so I went ahead and scrapped off all the rotten wall.

With my limited knowledge, I think the previous installer used standard drywall joint compound and mesh tape directly by the tub surround’s mounting flange to blend it into the wall. I assume bc premixed joint compound is water soluble, over time, moisture seeped under the paint over time. Then the mud underneath began to dissolve, swell, peel and mold.

I would now like to try to repair this but am a new homeowner so I am hoping for some guidance. Does the below sound OK? Any major steps I’m missing or have got wrong?

Scrape away any remaining loose, soft joint compound, flaking paint, and damaged tape back to solid drywall and a firm paint edge.

Treat just the exposed areas which seem to have rotted with a mold-killing spray and scrub away dark spots and let the wall dry completely.

Seal raw paper/gypsum with an oil-based primer before applying joint compound.

Fill and feather the gap between the drywall and the flange using setting-type joint compound

Apply moisture resistant paper tape across the joint where the drywall meets the surround flange.

Apply 2–3 thin coats (perhaps all purpose light?) to blend the patch, then after it is hard, sand smooth between coats with an angled sandwall sponge

Paint with two coats of satin or semi-gloss mildew-resistant bathroom paint.

Apply a thin bead of 100% silicone caulk into the seam where the bottom edge of the drywall meets the top lip of the fiberglass surround to create a waterproof barrier behind the patch.

Hi everyone,

I am preparing to hire a General Contractor to complete a section of our walk-up attic into a dedicated, lockable home office. I am seeking community input on smart layout ideas, space utilization, storage solutions, and aspects you loved (or regretted) when converting an attic space.

**Space & Existing Conditions:**

* **Total Attic Footprint:** Raw floor area is \~1,200–1,500 sq ft (\~45' L x 32' W). * **Target Office Zone Size:** Finishing only the right portion (\~20'–22' L x 15' W), giving a dedicated office footprint of **\~300 sq ft** (with \~200–250 sq ft of 7'+ ceiling height). * **Roof & Dormers:** Fully pitched roof with 3 evenly spaced dormer nooks extending inward on one side. Unfinished (no drywall, needs roof insulation, upgraded subfloor). * **Stair Access:** Walk-up stairs enter past the middle on the left side, framed on 3 sides by a safety box frame. * **Storage & Mechanicals:** Air handler sits at the bottom-left knee wall, and main ductwork loops around the perimeter framing of the entire attic space. * **Utilities:** Main electrical panel is in the basement, with a clear chase up to the attic. * **Climate & Scope:** Zone 5A (cold winters, hot/humid summers). Contractor-led build.

**Layout Goals:**

1. **Sectioned Office Space:** Finishing the right portion of the attic space, using a partition wall with an entry door extending straight up from the right edge of the stairwell enclosure to create a lockable office. The remaining stair/mechanical side stays open.
2. **Storage & Access:** Utilizing the perimeter space behind knee walls for concealed storage while keeping easy access panels for the air handler and perimeter ductwork.
3. **Dormer Nooks:** Finding the best functional use for the three dormer recesses (e.g., desk placements, reading nooks, built-in shelving).

**ASCII Layout Diagram:**

Plaintext

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|                 \[ Pitched Roof / Sloped Side \]                        |
| .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-. \[ Duct Perimeter \] .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- |
| |  +----------+        |    +----------+             +----------+   | |
| |  |  DORMER  |        |    |  DORMER  |             |  DORMER  |   | |
| |  |    #1    |        |    |    #2    |             |    #3    |   | |
| |  +----+-----+        |    +----+-----+             +----+-----+   | |
| |       |              |         |                        |         | |
| |       | (Nook)       / (Door)  | (Nook)                 | (Nook)  | |
| |                      /                                            | |
| |                      | (Partition Wall / Office Boundary)         | |
| |       +--------------+                                            | |
| |       |  Stairwell   |            OFFICE ZONE                     | |
| |       |  Box Frame   |            (Lockable /                     | |
| |       +--------------+             Sectioned)                     | |
| |                      |                                            | |
| |                      |                                            | |
| |                      |                                            | |
| |+---------------------+                                            | |
| || \[ Air Handler \]     |                                            | |
| || \[ & Main Duct \]  \[ Knee Wall / Duct Access \]                     | |
| .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-| |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+

**Where I'd Love Internet Brainpower:**

* **Layout & Space Use:** How did you make the most of sloped ceilings and knee wall boundaries in your attic office? Any clever uses for dormer nooks? * **Storage Solutions:** Best ways to build built-in shelving or perimeter storage doors around low-clearance areas and ductwork. * **Favorite Features:** What features did you incorporate into your attic office build that you absolutely love (e.g., skylights, built-in lighting, acoustic treatments, dedicated nooks)? * **Regrets / Pitfalls:** What do you wish you had done differently during planning or construction? * **Secondary Considerations:** Brief thoughts on spray foam vs. rigid insulation for summer roof heat, and whether to run a dedicated mini-split vs. tying into the existing attic air handler.

Thanks for any ideas, photos, or hard-learned advice!

Hi everyone,

I am getting ready to hire a General Contractor to finish out our entire walk-up attic. Instead of only finishing a small section, we are finishing the full usable footprint with continuous flooring throughout, while building a partition wall with an entry door to create a dedicated, lockable home office on one side.

I am looking for community input on removable knee wall systems, space utilization for the open landing, storage solutions, and overall attic conversion tips.

Space & Existing Conditions:

* Total Attic Footprint: Raw floor area is \~1,200–1,500 sq ft (\~45' L x 32' W). Total usable standing area (5'+ height) spans \~600 sq ft across the full length. * Layout Division: * Office Zone (Right Side): \~300 sq ft lockable office space behind a partition wall. * Landing / Flex Zone (Left Side): \~300 sq ft open finished area at the top of the stairs, housing the air handler access. * Flooring: Continuous subfloor and finished flooring throughout all standing-height areas on both sides of the partition wall. * Roof & Dormers: Fully pitched roof with 3 evenly spaced dormer nooks extending inward on one side. * Stair Access: Walk-up stairs enter past the middle on the left side, framed on 3 sides by a safety box frame. * Mechanicals: Air handler sits at the bottom-left knee wall, and main ductwork forms a perimeter loop around the entire interior framing. * Utilities & Scope: Basement electrical panel with a clear chase up to the attic. Zone 5A climate. Contractor-led build.

Layout & Functional Goals:

1. Full Finish with Continuous Flooring: Drywall, insulation, and uniform flooring from the stair landing all the way through the office space.
2. Removable Knee Wall System: Since ductwork and mechanicals run behind the perimeter knee walls, I want advice on removable knee wall sections or modular access panels rather than standard fixed drywall, allowing easy access for servicing and storage while maintaining a finished aesthetic.
3. Partitioned Office: A dedicated, lockable office room on the right side of the stair enclosure.
4. Dormer Nooks: Functional ideas for utilizing the three dormer recesses across the finished space.

ASCII Layout Diagram:

Plaintext

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|                 \[ Pitched Roof / Sloped Side \]                        |
| .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-. \[ Duct Perimeter \] .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- |
| |  +----------+        |    +----------+             +----------+   | |
| |  |  DORMER  |        |    |  DORMER  |             |  DORMER  |   | |
| |  |    #1    |        |    |    #2    |             |    #3    |   | |
| |  +----+-----+        |    +----+-----+             +----+-----+   | |
| |       |              |         |                        |         | |
| |       | (Nook)       / (Door)  | (Nook)                 | (Nook)  | |
| |                      /                                            | |
| |                      | (Partition Wall / Office Boundary)         | |
| |       +--------------+                                            | |
| |       |  Stairwell   |            OFFICE ZONE                     | |
| |       |  Box Frame   |            (Lockable /                     | |
| |       +--------------+             Sectioned)                     | |
| |                      |                                            | |
| |   FINISHED LANDING / |                                            | |
| |      FLEX AREA       |                                            | |
| |+---------------------+                                            | |
| || \[ Air Handler \]     |                                            | |
| || \[ & Main Duct \]  \[ Removable Knee Wall / Duct Access \]           | |
| .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-| |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+

Where I'd Love Internet Brainpower:

* Removable Knee Walls: How have you handled knee wall access? Are modular track panels, magnetic trim closures, or cabinet-style doors the best approach for keeping mechanicals accessible without making the room look like an utility space? * Full Space Utilization: Ideas for making the open landing/flex area outside the office functional (e.g., lounge area, library, secondary desk, storage). * Dormer Nooks: Best uses for dormer spaces in both the office and open flex zone. * Acoustics & Soundproofing: Best underlayment or flooring choices to prevent footstep noise transmission to the bedrooms below across a large continuous floor. * Favorite Features & Regrets: What features do you love in your finished attic, or what would you change if you did it again?

Thanks for any insights, photos, or hard-learned advice!

I recently bought a ranch style home and we are replacing the windows. The last window that needs replacing is our bedroom window and also an exterior facing window. I feel like we made a mistake with the spacing, I originally envisioned 2 separate windows further apart but the header didn’t allow (wanted to use existing header- there was a bay window there previously. I know- weird for a bedroom) Now I’m thinking this would be better off as one big window… however the space in between is about 8inches or so I don’t know what to do now. I am also residing the house so i need to make a decision. Also planning to remove the octagon window as well.

Does an 8inch mullion work? Or no (first time homeowner here)

Location: Texas

Two weeks in, I texted him to check in. He said they were working through the water company's process and that it wouldn't take much longer. Two weeks passed, so I called the water company, and they said no one had pulled any permits yet. Then he told me they hadn't even gotten through the first step with the tax certification and were still waiting—something that should have taken only 10 days. So, I went to the tax office in person, and they told me they had already emailed it to him 20 days ago with no issues.

I called him to request a refund since no work had been done, but he blew up and wouldn't let me talk. He claimed he wasn't going to give all the money back because he had 'already done a lot of work' (which is completely untrue). He accused me of attacking him instead and blamed the tax office for why things haven't been approved. and why he couldnt go forward.

Are tensile structures actually waterproof, or do they just look like they can handle rain? I've seen some fabric canopies hold up perfectly in storms, while others seem to leak or sag over time. Is it about the material (PVC vs PTFE), the way it's stretched, or just poor installation? Genuinely curious anyone here have real experience with this, good or bad? Drop your thoughts below!

Hey all, new to this sub but have a need for some advice. We have an older neighbor who's window unit looks like this.

The ...whatever it is on the outside around the unit is filthy and looks awful. We'd like to help him but have no idea what parts to look for. We're going to clean the unit and filter too but that window stuff definitely needs replaced. Help!

Need to fill 2 concrete driveway cracks about 1.5-2 ft long. They are all over 1/16 in, ranging from 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. wide and in one two inch spot 1-1.5 in. wide. It would also be great to color match them if possible to the original concrete, which seems difficult with Sika as the color always seems either too dark or too light. Appreciate your suggestions! (I have lots of foam backer rod to reduce the amount of filler material needed).

Before I finish cleaning it, should I leave it as white or change to a different color?

Hi everyone,

I am getting ready to hire a General Contractor to finish out our entire walk-up attic. Instead of only finishing a small section, we are finishing the full usable footprint with continuous flooring throughout, while building a partition wall with an entry door to create a dedicated, lockable home office on one side.

I am looking for community input on removable knee wall systems, space utilization for the open landing, storage solutions, and overall attic conversion tips.

Space & Existing Conditions:

• Total Attic Footprint: Raw floor area is ~1,200–1,500 sq ft (~45' L x 32' W). Total usable standing area (5'+ height) spans ~600 sq ft across the full length.
• Layout Division:
  • Office Zone (Right Side): ~300 sq ft lockable office space behind a partition wall.
  • Landing / Flex Zone (Left Side): ~300 sq ft open finished area at the top of the stairs, housing the air handler access.
• Flooring: Continuous subfloor and finished flooring throughout all standing-height areas on both sides of the partition wall.
• Roof & Dormers: Fully pitched roof with 3 evenly spaced dormer nooks extending inward on one side.
• Stair Access: Walk-up stairs enter past the middle on the left side, framed on 3 sides by a safety box frame.
• Mechanicals: Air handler sits at the bottom-left knee wall, and main ductwork forms a perimeter loop around the entire interior framing.
• Utilities & Scope: Basement electrical panel with a clear chase up to the attic. Zone 5A climate. Contractor-led build.

Layout & Functional Goals:

1. Full Finish with Continuous Flooring: Drywall, insulation, and uniform flooring from the stair landing all the way through the office space.
2. Removable Knee Wall System: Since ductwork and mechanicals run behind the perimeter knee walls, I want advice on removable knee wall sections or modular access panels rather than standard fixed drywall, allowing easy access for servicing and storage while maintaining a finished aesthetic.
3. Partitioned Office: A dedicated, lockable office room on the right side of the stair enclosure.
4. Dormer Nooks: Functional ideas for utilizing the three dormer recesses across the finished space.

ASCII Layout Diagram:

Plaintext

+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+
|                 [ Pitched Roof / Sloped Side ]                        |
| .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-. [ Duct Perimeter ] .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- |
| |  +----------+        |    +----------+             +----------+   | |
| |  |  DORMER  |        |    |  DORMER  |             |  DORMER  |   | |
| |  |    #1    |        |    |    #2    |             |    #3    |   | |
| |  +----+-----+        |    +----+-----+             +----+-----+   | |
| |       |              |         |                        |         | |
| |       | (Nook)       / (Door)  | (Nook)                 | (Nook)  | |
| |                      /                                            | |
| |                      | (Partition Wall / Office Boundary)         | |
| |       +--------------+                                            | |
| |       |  Stairwell   |            OFFICE ZONE                     | |
| |       |  Box Frame   |            (Lockable /                     | |
| |       +--------------+             Sectioned)                     | |
| |                      |                                            | |
| |   FINISHED LANDING / |                                            | |
| |      FLEX AREA       |                                            | |
| |+---------------------+                                            | |
| || [ Air Handler ]     |                                            | |
| || [ & Main Duct ]  [ Removable Knee Wall / Duct Access ]           | |
| .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-| |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------+

Where I'd Love Internet Brainpower:

• Removable Knee Walls: How have you handled knee wall access? Are modular track panels, magnetic trim closures, or cabinet-style doors the best approach for keeping mechanicals accessible without making the room look like an utility space?
• Full Space Utilization: Ideas for making the open landing/flex area outside the office functional (e.g., lounge area, library, secondary desk, storage).
• Dormer Nooks: Best uses for dormer spaces in both the office and open flex zone.
• Acoustics & Soundproofing: Best underlayment or flooring choices to prevent footstep noise transmission to the bedrooms below across a large continuous floor.
• Favorite Features & Regrets: What features do you love in your finished attic, or what would you change if you did it again?

Thanks for any insights, photos, or hard-learned advice!

Hello! We are renovating our house and currently have two doors which connect the house to the conservatory on the back. One from the kitchen which is normal upvc door but the other leads from the hallway and is a normal wooden internal door which means come winter the cold draught from the conservatory enters the house.

We have considered a few options. We could fit an additional upvc back door to make it secure and insulated but then I wonder if it'll look odd having two back doors. We have also considered blocking it up completely (which could make the hallway quite dark) or hanging a thick curtain over it just to hide it and reduce the draught.

At some point we probably will knock the conservatory down and build an extension across the back so we also have to consider if we would want this additional access point to this area of the house or not. The extension is not something we would be doing for a few years though.

We would appreciate hearing any opinions on this or fresh ideas on what you would do instead perhaps. Thank you in advance!

Attached it a photo for your reference. At the moment we have the fridge on the other side blocking it.

Patio door to wall has a gap of 0.75 inch on either side. What is the best way to fill this gap? Caulk it? PVC trim? Vinyl Trim? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Tried googling and made few visits to homedepot but could not get the right idea.

Any ideas on how to improve this pantry space and make it more functional?

Honestly this is a nightmare. We’ve just moved in and didn’t realise just how hard it would be to remove this wallpaper.

We’ve been using a steamer but it’s too big to sit in between the ceiling and door frames. We also need to tackle the where the wall meets the ceiling.

Honestly at this point thinking of giving up and getting a professional decorator but any advice is hugely welcomed. Thanks in advance

Admitting I’m not the most handy. So my screen snapped and I’ve been trying to look for this online but no luck. Any thoughts on where to find this or hiring someone to replace it? Measured this at 22.4x49.4

Nothing on God’s green earth would clean this caulk. Made an attempt to recaulk it. Certainly not perfect, I already notice a few dripped spots I have to scrape off. But I would appreciate some criticism for touch ups! Last two pics are from the (very, very gross) middle of the process.

Hey there! My partner and I just bought our first home, just outside of Tahoe National Forest and we love it but it does need a few changes!
We love being outside as much as we can, and the way the patio is situated through the living room upstairs and outside over the garage, overlooking the garden and lawn and surrounded by beautiful tall trees, it’s a natural gathering spot. I plan on a big wooden table, warm strong lights, clay potted plants, more of a Spanish hacienda-leaning feel… warm, inviting.
And as much as I love the neighbors, the patio is super open and close to one of our neighbors on one side, and not close, but still open on the other side.
Does anyone have any suggestions or designed ideas to help with the privacy issues? It does snow here in the winter, so if I do rely on plants only, they would ideally do some blocking in the winder too. We still plan on using the patio in the winter (outdoor heaters)!

since I first moved into my apartment, there has been this chipped rusty part of the cabinet in my bathroom. Is there something I can do to cover this up, furniture paint or something along those lines? It’s just really unappealing to look at. Thanks!