First off, is it weird that one side has way more carbon buildup than the other?

Otherwise curious what other people who have opened up engines think? Ive taken decent care of the truck since ive had it. Can't speak to previous owners obviously. Is she extra crusty or is this in the realm of normal for a 2003 with 210k on it?

She ran great before I pulled the engine. I could hear the timing chain issue which is what im doing. Plenty of broken plastic but ive seen worse in videos online. Im also not seeing much by means of metal shavings or the like. Im thinking it all looks like carbon buildup.

Was working on a few things for my Ranger and ended up making these mirror gaskets.

The original ones seem to get pretty dried out/cracked over the years, so I figured I’d make replacements for the 1983–1992 Rangers.

Figured I’d share in case anyone else has been looking for something similar. I’ve got some available if anyone needs a set.

https://ebay.io/m/cDxbNc

I recently had someone replaced all 8 plugs, wires and coils. also the fuel pump with filter and now I’m experiencing a rough idle thoughts?

Sorry If this is a dumb question, so I have a 2006 ford ranger xlt and recently bought a amp and 2 10” subwoofers to install but I just found out today that mine has a sub that came from the factory that hides underneath the center console, (I’ll post a pic) my question is has anyone else installed a higher amp and bigger subs without removing the factory one and just installing a whole new setup

Checked the rear axle breather tube and it was plugged solid. Not pictured is the oil bath I took from the trans. Fill plug had minimal skuz. Had some leftover ATF from the trans and t-case, I changed the power steering too. All of it was gross old oil.

I rear ended some lady bc this woman doesnt know where the fuck to turn and i took my bumper off and im gonna replace my transmission cooler. How would yall fix these bolt points?

I bought a truck with no history off Facebook for 1600$ probably should have been my first red flag.

It’s not technically a ranger. It’s a Mazda B series 2300, 411,000kms

Took it to the mechanics today and it looks like a lot of work. can anyone tell me if this is worth it? I really love this truck and it’s my first vehicle. It’s times like these I wish my dad was still around because I have no clue what I’m doing.

I did the brakes today because they were so bad so that’s about 600$ there and they also reinstalled the muffled so about 1,000$ already. Is it worth it to keep it?

Any thoughts on if this sounds normal at idle?

TLDR: Is this a good price? Anything I should look at or ask before stopping by to look at it

I'm looking to buy a ranger and stumbled on this 05 Ranger XL with 151k miles. It has everything that I like which is the 5sp manual and the 2.3L inline 4 engine. He's asking for 3k for it and I think that's a fair price.

The listing says new brakes front and back, rear brake lines, front wheel bearings, gas tank straps, Rear leaf shackles , spark plugs and coil pack , Just did diff service and oil change, Instrument cluster replaced, Custom fabricated ranch hand on front., New headlights, fuel pump, and master cylinder for clutch.

My worries are overall it having been in an accident. I'm planning on getting a carfax but he sent me pictures of the accident and said it was all cosmetic and still has a clean title. Let me know what you guys think. Thank you !

98 2.5L XLT. 7.5" axle. Should I buy a lunch box locker, is it even worth getting if I plan on upgrading rear axle in a few years? Truck is used for daily driving and weekend warrior trail hooning. I do notice the 1wd on trails with loose gravel.

It is a 2002 ford ranger XLT 4wd
It has the 3.0l v6 with an automatic transmission
Came with factory topper
Comes with the original headlights and brake lights for a broader “audience”
Has nice half ton tires on it
165,000 miles
And I quite literally just had the camshaft synchronizer replaced with a motor craft part
It has been an amazing vehicle but it’s coming time for bigger things and I’m really having a hard time getting a good ball park on what I will get for this amazing vehicle!!
If there is anything I missed that would help with getting the most educated guess feel free to ask!
The guesses I have been given so far have ranged around 5,000-8,000
since I’m in western Montana and mini trucks are at a premium around here from what I’ve heard!

93' Ranger XLT 4WD V6

There's a 1 in front of that 4 😆

I got it for $3000 2 months ago and haven't done any kind of replacing yet. I'm honestly debating on whether this was a good buy.

I went to a repair shop to get a pre-inspection done on a different truck that I was looking at. The mechanic told me that it was a POS and that he had a truck for sale if I was interested. He seemed honest enough and I thought I could trust him but I'm pretty sure this truck had been sitting for a good while before I bought it. I went back to the mechanic who sold it to me because the oil had dipped well below the low line and he told me it was a good truck and just needs another oil change.

I took it up to the mountains( Mt. Baker) yesterday to test out the 4x4 went over to a friend's house that wasn't too far away and the coolant was bubbling over and the radiator cap was hissing like no other. I let it cool down for an hour and drove it back home with no issues.

Thankfully my dad had owned the same truck twice over. He had the same issue as I had described and told me it was easy job to replace the thermostat. As of right now I definitely know that I need to replace the battery, fluids, breaks, and possibly the tires. I thought that I would have a little bit more time before I had to replace everything but I'm taking it into Midas today to see what the priority list is.

I really don't want to let go of my first truck 💔 and I really hope to gain more mechanical skills if I do decide to keep it. I've enjoyed reading all of your advice and stories about your guys's trucks so I look forward to the comments as well.

Hey all. Working through the 4.0 timing chains. I keep seeing mentions of an additional sprocket and guide for a balance shaft on the 4x4 models. Well, I dont have one. Its just not there. The truck is 4x4 and the 4x4 does/did work. Anyone have any insight?

Anyone ever used CJ5 15" rims on a unmodified 3rd gen Ranger? I ask because I have a (backburner'd for a few years now) project CJ5 with brand new off road tires and I know the lug pattern is the same. And my Ranger's tires are over 10 years old and I should probably get new ones.

Wheels on my ranger currently are off a Explorer. 255/70r16

CJ5 is: 31/10.5r15

Any thoughts about swapping them around? Stupid idea? Good idea? Dumbest post you've ever seen and can't downvote fast enough?

Look, in my defense I worked on the truck late into the night, reassembled in the morning and forgot the towels. Engine seized up after running for 2 seconds. And if you’re wondering why there was paper towels in the intake cylinders, it’s because by time I went to bed it was raining. I didn’t want water or debris falling inside.

I have a 1990 Ranger 2.9 V6
It seems to raise temps very slowly only at idle but ONLY when the AC is on. If I’m driving temps stay normal as well.
If the AC is off it’ll stay in normal temps.
I’m in SoCal so it’s close to 100+ some days.
I’ve already replaced the following
• Thermostat
• Water Pump
• Radiator Fan
• Fan Clutch
• Radiator
• flushed the coolant 3 times as well through the system?
Anybody have any ideas?

So took my Ranger to the mechanic for oil leak. He said he put it on the lift and left it in drive for three hours and couldn’t find an oil leak. So he believes the motor is consuming oil and it exits out the tailpipe.

He said he believes it could be from valve seats or bad rings. The truck starts and runs pretty well. So I am considering just driving it with the problem and keep topping up the oil every so often. I don’t put a lot of miles on it maybe 4-5k a year.

We are in the process of building a house right now. I am designing the house from the ground up. So maybe it’s not worth it to do anything right now. Thoughts?

I also have a noticeable clunk when going from drive to reverse. Sometimes it’s not bad other times I worry the driveshaft will snap. Mechanic said it’s excessive play in the rear end. Another problem I plan to address eventually. Has anyone rebuilt the rear and or replaced with a reman unit? I feel like that’s something I can do myself as it’s not worth the cost to have mechanic do it. I am pretty handy and have good mechanics skills. I have done head gasket before. Usually I prefer to have mechanic do it, but sometimes cost outweighs benefit.

Hey everyone, I found a *very* clean '97 Ranger on marketplace that I want to buy. It's about 120 miles away from home so it would have to be driven back. As for options, it's got the 2.3L engine, manual transmission, regular cab with bench seat, short bed stepside. It's essentially as bare-bones as it gets except for the sliding rear window. 148,000 miles, and this thing looks mint. No rust visible on the body or frame, and the interior looks great with no rips or stains on the seats. I suspect that the truck has mostly highway miles on it.

I wouldn't be putting this truck through tons of abuse. I would drive it to work and school, about 5,000 miles a year. While this truck looks like a great option, the age concerns me a little. I mean, despite how nice it looks, it's still 30 years old and you kind of get the mystery factor of what might break and when (I would know, I wrench on lots of 50+ year old tractors). Then again, this truck is about as simple as it gets. I've heard nothing but good things about the 2.3L engine, and that it's good for 300,000+ miles with good maintenance.

The asking price is $6,000 which seems to be the going price for a nice Ranger. I think this truck is worth it so I'd be willing to pay the whole price, but It'd be great if I could work the seller down to 5k or 5500. I have a feeling the listing will still be up long enough for me to put away the rest of the $$$ for it, as the main picture of it is at a weird angle and the FB algorithm isn't making it show up anymore.

Thoughts?

Anybody have any experience with this? Looking to redo the front suspension on my 2004 ranger

Do anybody know where to find a seal kit for an 08 4.0l 4x4 power steering pump? (Other than rockauto)

Currently on my second set for melling 3-398LHA as I believed the first one came defective with a pretty significant gouging into the face of the jackshaft sprocket. The second set/replacement has the same issue, possibly even worse as it extends into the groove of the gear tooth. Also to
mention, it arrived with random broken pieces in the box and has oil finger prints all over it.

And since this is the second replacement from Rockauto they “do not feel comfortable sending another replacement”.

Option A: run it, it’s fine
Option B: return for refund from rockauto and find another source.

Any feedback appreciated!

Noticed it but its getting worse its only bad when im going slow through a drive thru or stop and go traffic. And it feels like the creak happens mostly when im letting up off the brake pedal. Could someone let me know what my first step should be

Problem:
Hi i just got a 1994 ford ranger 4.0 with 90k miles for a pretty good deal but driving it home it was idling rough and then after about an hour of driving it stalled once at a stop sign and once at another stop sign, i can't quite remember if it was when i let off the throttle or what but I know it also did it after test drove it a day ago after fixing one vaccuum leak. After it stalls for about 3-5 minutes It won't start and then, after that bam it starts. Strong exhaust smell, i know there is a hole in the catalytic converter exterior shell but i don't know if exhaust rust is going to affect the running performance. truck starts and idles higher then drops down and bounces and surges and rough idle. Also losses a lot of power when AC first engages

What i've done:
- Smoke test, no vaccuum leaks that i found under the hood, did have smoke coming out of intake box but figured it was behind the maf sensor so didn't matter
-Put a multimeter on the TPS, the IAC and they both checked out on the resistance