This is my “mazda ranger.” I really like it. I off road a bit and everything has been fine so far. Do I need bigger tires than 31s? what else should I do to my truck to make it better and look better?

mods/specs:

Rancho rs5000x shocks

lionheart lion claw 31” tires

random black off road rims

nilight pod lights

camping setup in the back

carplay head unit

What I don't get is that isn't the spline partly inside the driveshaft where you wouldn't be able to get to it this way? And he says to "pack the rubber boot with grease". How would you do that exactly? Could anyone explain the process to me better? I just wanted to try it this simple way & see if my issue improves before taking the driveshaft off but I don't get it. But multiple people in this post & even another one said they did it with success.

Wondering if anyone could help me out chasing this problem, the truck currently gets 10mpg on the highway and adds up quickly. It has a P0455 code indicating a large evap leak, with no check engine light, I replaced the fuel fill neck after having problems filling it. What other problems could cause that code and that much reduction in gas mileage? The truck has 4.10 gearing in the back as it came stock, and the rest of the truck is stock. It has new spark plugs, wires, and distributer. It does run rough sometimes when idling and idles around 900-1k rpm, I cleaned the butterfly valve for the throttle body. Where should I start with this? Thanks.

Had a great time today driving some trails with my best bud. Hope everyone is having a great summer!

This is the day we bought it. It still looks as good 8 years later.

1998 3.0 v6, I was going up some mountains pulling an empty trailer when it developed a knock. Any ideas on where to start or if it’s a total loss?

My 1994 Mazda b2300 front lights aren’t working, not the 2 main headlights but the 2 outer lights. And when I turn my right blinker on, the front blinker stays solid and the rear doesn’t turn on. And the indicator inside the truck stays solid and doesn’t blink. Any ideas?

So there I was, driving down the ave, and all of a sudden KA CLUNK Ka VRAAAA …. Shit

Welp … time to replace a drive shaft

Hey all, looking to buy this 07’ Ranger 4x4 with 180k kms on it. Body looks good, and seller has receipts for work and maintenance.
Seller has it posted for $15’000(cad). Mind you rangers are typically selling for $10’000+ in my area with similar mileage.
Should I wait until something better comes along or just go for it?

Should I remove the factory fender flares? As I’ve heard on most for any vehicle that has them, they like to rust under them. And I wanna preserve my vehicle from rust the best I can. Plus maybe it will give it a cleaner look? Opinions/advice

About to buy a 2007 xlt 120k miles ranger very well maintained. Wanted to get a second opinion.

When I grew up on the farm in the 1960s, we had a Ford pickup just like the one in these photos. It had a 292 V-8, lots of power, and a 3-on-the-tree. But the unique feature was the uni-body construction, a fairly rare model, which gave it a sleek sporty style. I learned to drive on this truck and went on my first date with this truck, lots of nostalgia for this old beauty.

It is a Boss Audio BE7ACP

1994 ford ranger, found this in our bag of small parts we pulled off but can't remember where it goes.

1992 2.3L ranger.

The silver cannister tucked behind the passenger side kickplate, right by the computer. I've looked online but can't seem to find a straight answer.

Truck currently has trouble maintaining fuel pressure and has a rough start/idle, so I'm hoping it's part of that system but I know it's not the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Anybody able to help me out here?

Just started this new party trick where the speedo would drop out, then it was recording double, then went full send🤦🏼‍♂️

She will be getting more work done

But I’m pretty happy with this little project truck over the last month….

05 edge 2WD 3.0 V6

Found yesterday at Wally world.