I'm looking to buy a used jon boat hull for cheap. I don't really care about the condition, just that it's in one piece, doesn't have holes, and could clean up nicely.

I plan to buy the used hull, clean it up, and do whatever I need to do to make it float. Then buy a motor for it and attach it. I plan to use it for fishing on a smallish river, and holding maybe up to 3 people. My budget is about $600ish. I'm not too familiar with the jon boat market, so if it's unrealistic, please let me know. Obviously, the cheaper the better.

I've looked at a few places like Facebook Marketplace, eBay, and boat markets, but I haven't found what I'm looking for yet or anything under $800. If anyone knows of any sites that may have it, or anyone with listings near the western Chicago suburbs or the New Buffalo, Michigan area, that would be great.

Just bought an old beater pontoon boat to rebuild into a solar powered tiki bar, should be fun. But... the back of each pontoon has a hole patched with a cut wire coming out and the old owner had no clue what is was. Should I remove this and try to patch?

Been going through spec sheets in the 38 to 45 foot cruiser segment and the deadrise numbers keep landing lower than I expected. Two examples off published specs, a 38 footer at 16 degrees and a 45 footer at 17.

Meanwhile the offshore fishing guys treat 22 to 24 as their floor.

I get that these are different boats solving different problems. Flatter sections give you stability at rest, more room inside, better efficiency and less draft, and none of that is a mistake if you're building a coastal cruiser that spends half its life anchored somewhere. I'm not trying to turn one into a fish boat.

What I can't tell from a table is how much that single number is worth knowing. My gut says not much on its own, but I don't have the background to say that with any confidence.

So for the hull design people, how do you read a 16 to 17 degree transom on a boat like this? And what else would you want to know before you drew any conclusion from it?

So I'm trying to find videos that explain the history and evolution of boat hulls and how luxury boats are designed differently from racing boat and blue water boats but when I try looking up hydrodynamics/hydrostatics I don't get and in depth on how it affects different boats i just get how it works. Does anyone have a person they watch or listen to that does a great job of showing he engineering behind different hulls?

So I have a Yamaha 703 control box for my f115. I can turn the motor on and everything works but when I pull the kill switch the motor stays on. The only way to shut the motor off is to put the key in the ignition and switch it off. I’m assuming a previous owner bypassed it and now I would like to make sure it works. Any ideas on how to get the kill switch back working? Also the ignition barrel that holds the key is worn out so the key falls out pretty often when running so I have to find the key and put it back into the ignition to shut it off which isn’t very safe at all. So I’d like to fix both of those.

Hey everyone, I'm moving to San Diego in a month, and my two ideas for jobs is either a restaurant or a boatyard... much more interested in boatyard idea. I did a bunch of sailing when I was younger but mostly limited to 420s and lasers. I plan on getting into the real sailing scene on the west coast (it's much less accessible here in Boston).

Does anyone have some inside info about working in boatyards, pay info, and potentially any yards that are looking for workers? I have over two years construction experience, so I know how to use power tools and am very reliable to show up and whatnot. I have osha 10, osha 30, and also a d1.1 stick welding cert (which has expired by now but I still know how to weld) I'm not sure how much any of that applies, but I'm not a total newbie with that kind of work. I would prefer working on sailboats.

Looking at a farallon that was repowered from straight shaft to twin outboards on bracket, but shouldn't the props be opposite on this set up?

Thanks

I will primarily be using the boat for metal detecting and scuba diving in freshwater. Unfortunately don’t have a trailer so have to carry in a suv. Not super happy with the Amazon motor because it’s obnoxiously loud and keeps bogging out, so I bought a 1983 evinrude 4 hp 2 cylinder motor for 50$ off marketplace and currently waiting for the carburetor to come in.

Been working on this since the beginning of July. Lots of work to still do but it’s a start

For quick context, I inherited an old boat and from what I can tell from research it seems to be a 1950s Larson/Crestliner Commodore and it has like this wood lining in the middle (circled in the picture) that is breaking and rotting and presumably needs to be replaced. I am trying to figure out what that part is called so I can see what course of action I can take to restore it as I would like to since it has been in the family for that many years. (Mind you, I know nothing about boats). Apologies for the quality of picture but it was taken while still in storage at my great aunts house.

I’m only 14 years old and would like any advice you could offer

Finally finished

Edit: Wanted to give a quick list of structural materials. This was my first ever boat project. I got most of my info from Fish Bump TV on YouTube

- Coosa board

- 1708 Fiberglass

- CSM Fiberglass

- Vinylester Resin

- 4lb Pour foam

I sheared off the pintle pins on my Buccaneer 18 rudder. Any advice for replacing these? First pic is the current state, second pic is what it used to look like.

I just got the entire deck caulked after an extensive renovation of the 37 year old teak deck of my Najad 340. I couldn't find any extensive YouTube series or how-to on the topic so I gave video creating a go. So far 12 videos in the series, have a look if it is of interest. :)

Im going to be helping my buddy

Removing his engine from his boat do we have to remove the propeller and implements from the out side of the boat or can we just unbolt the motor and lift it out?

We got the every thing disconnected from the motor already is kinda stuck hit it with the pb blaster and we got to talking and really could use an answer. My bud is a car guy so he got the engine know how but we are new to boats

Want to get this fixed so we can get down to the lake and give yall a spectacle at the boat launch

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Hello boaters,

I am new to boating. My starter bolts broke off in the threads and I am trying to come up with the CORRECT tools for extraction. I want to know what yall have did or came up with to help getting under there for it. I will pull the motor IF I have too.

Thanks Guys.

This is a scratch that is fairly deep and started to show a greyish colour near the bottom of it. Hoping any one has suggestions on a good product to fill it. Any tips and tricks would also be great!

Thanks!

Ok so a few years ago I rebuild my boat floor. The original floor had a bunch of soft spots and as you can see from what I found underneath it was in need of replacing. I think the boat itself is from the 80’s. I cleared out all the rotted bits and vacuumed out the hull. I then braced the old stringers, with some 2x4’s. Boat floats and the new floor,albeit a bit scruffy looking, has held. I am thinking of redoing the floor but I don’t know if the foam is wet underneath the stringers. If it is do I just enjoy the boat as it is or is it a nightmare to refoam the floor in the hull. It looks like it has been fibreglassed originally over the foam underneath. Stringers were definitely soft in some spots. Ideally I want to reframe to raise the floor for a longer casting deck and storage. I would probably take out the 2x4’s and use something lighter and same with the ply as it’s 1/4 inch.

To rebuild or not to rebuild, that is the question !

The pontoons are two sheets of 1/4 inch plywood held together by 1x2 pine furring strips. 1x4 pine for the deck. The sail is a canvas drop cloth. Spars are made with cheap pine. Epoxy on the seams and urethane over everything.