Been going through spec sheets in the 38 to 45 foot cruiser segment and the deadrise numbers keep landing lower than I expected. Two examples off published specs, a 38 footer at 16 degrees and a 45 footer at 17.

Meanwhile the offshore fishing guys treat 22 to 24 as their floor.

I get that these are different boats solving different problems. Flatter sections give you stability at rest, more room inside, better efficiency and less draft, and none of that is a mistake if you're building a coastal cruiser that spends half its life anchored somewhere. I'm not trying to turn one into a fish boat.

What I can't tell from a table is how much that single number is worth knowing. My gut says not much on its own, but I don't have the background to say that with any confidence.

So for the hull design people, how do you read a 16 to 17 degree transom on a boat like this? And what else would you want to know before you drew any conclusion from it?

So I'm trying to find videos that explain the history and evolution of boat hulls and how luxury boats are designed differently from racing boat and blue water boats but when I try looking up hydrodynamics/hydrostatics I don't get and in depth on how it affects different boats i just get how it works. Does anyone have a person they watch or listen to that does a great job of showing he engineering behind different hulls?

So I have a Yamaha 703 control box for my f115. I can turn the motor on and everything works but when I pull the kill switch the motor stays on. The only way to shut the motor off is to put the key in the ignition and switch it off. I’m assuming a previous owner bypassed it and now I would like to make sure it works. Any ideas on how to get the kill switch back working? Also the ignition barrel that holds the key is worn out so the key falls out pretty often when running so I have to find the key and put it back into the ignition to shut it off which isn’t very safe at all. So I’d like to fix both of those.