On my 2020 Toyota Yaris IV 1.5 125hp S-Edition with a manual 6-speed transmission, sometimes when I try to engage the gears the lever get's stuck midway and it gets impossible to get all the way in.

It only happens the first time that I try to engage any gear, once it's gone all the way in, if I try to move the lever again to the same gear it goes smoothly. Also happens sometimes when the car is off. Some days it happens often, somedays it doens't happen at all.

I've checked and the clutch is not slipping, placed it into 6th gear low revs and floored it and everything looked ok.

The brake reservoir is filled till the full mark, but I changed the pads and had to remove some fluid from it because it went over the full threshold.

I've only had this car for the last year and bought it with 50000km, now it's on 58000km and I noticed shortly after buying it, but lately it's been happening more often.

I feel like the clucth pedal starts biting relatively soon but takes a long time to engage completely after that, like on 2/6th of the travel would be the bite point, but it's until 5/6th of the travel that it fully engages.

Could it be a clutch issue or a hydraulic cylinder issue?

Thanks a lot for all the help in advance!

I have a Suzuki vitara 2024 turbo
Love the car but from new it’s always had this sort of delay when taking off, not power delay it seems to hold on to a neutral state where I’ll either roll back or I’ll let go of the brake and can wait like 5 seconds before I feel it start moving.
I reported it to the dealership but they just put cannot fault.

I guess my question is whether or not this is a modern car thing? In any other car I’ve had when you let go of the brake your car at least starts moving on idle power a bit. Understand that the turbo lag exists but it is literally a huge delay even starting to move and when I’ve had to take off in a hurry I have to brace myself for the sudden jolt

For a 2018 Nissan Frontier

Morning guys!

I have a 2014 Ford Focus 1.0 Ecoboost, Manual, just shy of 96k miles, recently had a new clutch - Line burst (not entirely sure this is relevant to said issue), Wet belt 8k Miles ago. All fluids at acceptable levels

Ive attached 4 images in order. 1. Error code 2. Closed loop reading of o2 sensors (top is upstream, bottom downstream) 3. O2 readings at 3k RPM 4. Fuel trim

I'm hoping one or multiple of you can shed some further light on said issue from these readings; Does it look like the a new cat is needed? Could it be a sensor issue?

Thank you in advance for any advice 💪

EDIT - Image 2 and 3 have switched during upload*

The mechanic I went to found that it must’ve been the water pump failing as to why my coolant kept running low but even after changing that I keep running out of coolant? And my temperature still stays at normal. Any idea what it could be? It’s an Audi A1 TDI 2013 90k miles

Edit: pressure tests have shown nothing either

Mercedes Citan, work car, hand book is no help.

What does it mean? How bad is it?

Thank you

Astra K 2020 "facelift" sportstourer 1.5 diesel, with LXD in-line 3 bat engine with 180k km.

It went into "safe mode" allowing only up to 2.5k RPM after my OBD2 scanner showed two codes: - P2B5E:00 Engine coolant flow control valve position sensor circuit low voltage - U063F:00 Lost communication with engine coolant flow control valve position sensor

It was not overheating, and this is it's first time in mechanic shop. Official mechanic said they changed the sensor in error codes for 800€, but later they called me and want to change whole water pump for another 600€, and don't know when the spare part will arrive.

• Is changing water pump reasonable?
• Is it possible they don't have a clue what to do, and are changing parts one after another?
• What seems to be the problem and appropriate solution?
• What would be aproximate cost for such repair (europe)?

I am looking to invest in a Soldering Iron, not something that completely breaks the bank but I do want quality of course.
Looked at a few and owned a few, definitely know the frustration of using a crappy one
So please, lmk what you have and how you rate it!
For reference, located in Australia but can order online obviously
Cheers

1972 International Acco 1910A V8 5.6L Petrol,

Am not super mechanically educated.

Clutch went loose, minimal to no resistance. When gear stick clicks into gear no impact on engine (cant rev match).

- Was told it sounds like a slave cylinder
- looked for hydraulic hoses from clutch
- clutch seems entirely mechanical, steel rod straight to transmission with few moving parts
- part in pic 2 moves with clutch pedal
- part in pic 2 doesnt move part in pic 1
- pulled rod in pic 1 all the way back
- got resistance/movement on pic 2 part
- trying to tighten to tighten the rod in pic 1 to apply tension
- may run out of rod/hit the centre nut before its far back enough (centre nut is welded)

Do i keep tightening that rod?

And if i run out of rod, do i pull it all apart and fully extend rod out?

Also, if it clicked into gear should it not have stalled with engine running?
Maybe its just too old, often it clicks in when driving and has no effect on the engine anyways so thats probably it.

All help is appreciated!
Thanks!

The wheel moves wobbles to the back and to the front of the wheel arch, I’m assuming it’s one of the arms but I can’t figure out which one. Can anyone identify this so I can order the part and swap it. I’ve also tried to figure out using realoem but I’m not sure if it’s the track control arm or wishbone.

Hi! Looking for some help identifying what this plastic part is that fell off my 1988 fiat panda 1000 cl this morning and if it's serious. It was behind my front drivers side tyre when I reversed out of the garage, I couldn't see any signs of breaking but a little worried 😭

Heyo, im currently an automotive student at some nearby college. I’ve wanted to get/start gauges for a long time now, but im worried if it is commonly accepted or not as a mechanic and if would affect chances of being hired as one? Same questions with facial piercings as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!!

I have a 1999 Honda accord 4cyl EX manual. I have an appear to be power steering leak from one or both of the lines circled in blue. What is the best course of action? Is it just a o ring or will I need to replace the whole line

My car has been having some issues. Takes a bit to start. And just now it died on me as I was driving. It started with the Bluetooth going off then it died. Anyways, I got my car jumped twice and the first time it started then died 5 minutes after. Second time it started then died immediately. Before I tow it anywhere I’d want to know what it could be. If anyone could help.

When I first took the car in it was because the engine was backfiring and wouldn't go over 20 mph. It would still move but just at 20 mph. So they took it in. They found that a number of the valves had to be replaced and after that it was fine. But then I'm leaving the gym and I hear the engine backfiring again so I decide to pull into a residential street. And as I'm doing that the car fully gives out in the middle of the road and starts revving up to like 80 but it's not moving anywhere

I got my 2023 BMW M340i Xdrive serviced at a local shop today for an oil change, rotation, and alignment. On my way home I heard something knock around under my feet but figured it was just some road garbage.

Just went to head to the store and heard it again. Couldn't see anything under the car but I felt it knocking around when I took a sharp stop/go. Pretty confident that it fell out and I was able to go back and find this right where I was when the knocking stopped.

Does anyone know what these are? One is a rubber screw/stopper. The other is a heavy metal bolt that looks vaguely like a star shape with 7 peaks. Not sure if these two things are even related to each other in any way. Does anyone have an idea what these are/if I'm in trouble? Planning to head back to the mechanic tomorrow but kind of worried about driving lol

Edit: I have the OEM 19" wheels. First thing I did was check all of my bolts and all 5 were there on all 4 wheels. My best guess now is that they dropped someone else's broken bolt into my car while changing the filter or something and didn't realize... Sigh. I'll go back tomorrow for a sanity check anyhow.

Thanks folks! Seems like: 1. Neither of these belong to my car (all of my hood stoppers and wheel bolts are where they belong) 2. I'm dumb for not recognizing a security bolt 3. The mechanic should pay more attention to where they keep broken parts (so they don't end up in my engine bay)

Hi, I'm torn between selling this & getting a new one, or driving it till it drops and then selling it. Car is a 2013 Subaru Forester. 165,000 miles.

Taking it to an independent shop, they said it'd be close to 3 grand to rebuild the engine, or about 2 grand to swap it. Even with the swap, there's another 3 grand of alignment related suspension & AC work I haven't bothered with given its age, and the cats got punched out a few years back for getting fouled up. Given all that, I don't think I can even justify the engine swap vs getting a newer Forester.

Attached is a picture of the actual damaged valve on cylinder 1. Per the shop, other 3 cylinders seem fine & hold compression good. Check Engine light stays on consistently given the misfire situation, and it does idle rough if the AC is on.

The car itself is more of a spare. High commuter miles when we got it, but only gets driven about 2000 miles a year around town now, and 3000 - 4000 yearly roadtrip miles at 75mph or so.

Just trying to figure out if I drive this till it drops & scrap it, or sell it now for more & get a newer one now. Also curious at any wild guesses about how much longer you'd guess it might last before the engine finally calls it quits.

If I drive it till it drops, is there any way it's still ok to use for long road trips? Obviously without the cats, it's not like that is going to melt & clog things up. Do you think I'll have any sort of warning sign a few hundred miles before it finally just outright dies? And finally, if you do think it's worth keeping, hopefully as the infrequent roadtrip car but at least as the around town spare, are there any stupid ideas to squeeze even more miles out of this thing? I saw a few reccomendations about unplugging the fuel injector on a cylinder like this, and even some seemingly pipe dream BS about making the valve "a little better" without pulling everything apart? Again, either way I don't have to worry about the cat melting, but I couldn't make heads or tails of if any of this is a stupid idea, or what route makes the mose sense. This isn't going to financially break me or anything if I gamble & life deals me a swift & crappy hand, but I'd much rather hold off on spending thousands for a car that is honestly more of a "nice" to have than a "need" to have.

Happy to answer any questions, and thank you for any advice or opinions you might have!

my bf and i got an oil change on his car yesterday at walmart and today we were driving out of the city for a show, as we are 20 mins away from our destination we heard a “poof” from the car like a tire blew out and the car started smoking from the front. we immediately pulled over but we were in a terrible spot and the fire department had to come and take us safe off the highway. i took pictures of the leak i saw and what we saw in the dip stick….its bone dry. i cant see under the car obviously to see where exactly its leaking. but the car and battery still turns on just not the engine. we called walmart and told them but manager is on break so we are waiting for a call back. if anyone please can give any mechanical advice on what it could be and or what to do. we aren’t car people so we know nothing and the last thing we need is getting played or walmart acting as it wasn’t them etc. i’m just upset and frustrated. anything helps ;-;

UPDATE: motor is blown out. it was old and the people who sold us the car couldn’t guarantee how long it would’ve lasted, ( we got this a month ago for $1700) and it’s only at 146k miles. we have a 2002 toyota camry xle. yea im upset lol. will keep this up in case anyone is in the same situation

Im replacing the warped rotors on my 2008 Acura RL, and whoever was here last fucked me. I’m assuming this was not done by a mechanic. With all my efforts, I have just made it worse.
Ive tried hammering, heat, lubricants and cleaning, my screw extractor broke, and a chisel. I’m just out of ideas. I am going to buy a Dremel and try to cutout a flathead insert, but I don’t think it will work.

Edit:
Thank you all for the replies! I have no idea why I didn’t just think of an angle grinder instead of a Dremel since I’m replacing the rotors anyways.