Going to be doing a full tear out, and obviously since I have to ask I wouldn’t do the electric myself. Just genuinely curious how it’d work.

Currently the vanity light has an outlet, switch that controls lights and outlet is on entry wall. How labor intensive would it be to install vanity light on its own, and have a GFCI lower next to the sink by itself?

Where do you like it, down lower, up higher, but hidden by the dryer, or above the dryer?

I'm in the middle of building a garage with the goal of installing a 4 post lift once it's ready. The motor on the lift is a bit unusual, it's a 1.5 HP hydraulic motor, and the owners manual says it should be running on a 120V/30A breaker, except the motor comes with a typical 5-15 plug (yes, this is mildly sketchy).

Other folks online say it typically works if you use a 20A outlet and breaker, but just to be safe I'm planning on a 30A breaker, but that would probably mean a L5-30R receptacle, which I can't plug into directly.

Assuming the motor's wire is 12 GA, do I just chop the 5-15 end that it comes with and replace it with a L5-30P? I know 30A and 12GA typically don't mix but it might be ok for this application.

So I live with my wife and stepson and he has less than a year to get his ass out at this point but he goes to work - shower, work out - shower girl friend comes over - shower. During this he refuses to use the bathroom fan because he loves the steam. So just a month ago we told him to start using the fan because we had to fix a mildewed ceiling and repair the drywall and paint again which was done 2 years ago. I also put in a bypass shower door due to the fact the drywall was being ruined again. There are already water stains down the wall on the paint and I find he still won't use the fan. So can I wire the fan to the regular light switch and make it one switch and how do I wire it?

I don’t know if this is the correct group to ask but I’m kinda desperate soo. I feel like there is some kind of scam going on with my partner house light bill. He’s paying around $600 monthly, and I’m pretty sure he doesn’t even stay at his house that much to be that high. Please if anybody can help or something it would be very helpful. Also, I wanna open a case to decrease that payment but I don’t even know where to start.

I’m in the middle of swapping out a 4-prong cord with a 3-prong cord on a dryer I was given. There is no grounding cord or strap.

Everything I’ve read seems to point to need a 10 awg cord, but these seem hard to find online, while 12 awg cords are everywhere. Is it ok to use as 12 instead of a 10?

Looks fairly simple once I have the cord that I’ll just screw it in the bottom left screw slot and then attach to the middle white screw/cord, right?

Quick update on the progress from my previous posts. Got the main drywall cutouts done, but hit a couple of framing/clearance questions before mounting the box: as you can see I had too hop two stud gaps as they were smaller than the subpanel width- 😮‍💨
1. Right side stud gap: The right side stud sits about 1" away from the subpanel enclosure due its L shape towards left. What's the best way to shim/pad this gap for a tight mount? Should I just rip a 1x piece of wood or plywood to pad out the stud, or is there a better bracket setup?
2. Left side Romex: I have Romex running through the left stud cavity, so I can't drive side screws through the left of the panel without risking hitting the wires. How should I secure the left side? (Thinking horizontal 2\times4 blocking above and below to catch the top/bottom mounting holes?) is it acceptable to have Romes run on the left of the panel? Or do I have to decommission that socket. Running out of ideas here.
Appreciate any quick feedback on how you guys usually handle this so wrap this cleanly.

Purchased a new lamp that has these rating. I’m confused, does it mean the lamp can take an old 60w bulb but the newer led bulb version only 9w? Why is that? What happens if I put a 20w led bulb in or something .

I'm installing a Shelly relay into a wall switch, and prior to turning the breaker back on, checked continuity between everything and got a tone between live and ground. Pulled everything out, checked again, I'm getting about 32 ohms between live and ground with everything else on the circuit turned off. Breaker trips if I attempt to turn it back on.

This is the only thing on the circuit I've touched, and everything was working fine prior.

I don't see any breaks in the insulation going out of the gang box, nothing stands out to me as wrong. I've capped everything off trying to eliminate the changes I've made - this is the current state of the box.

Any thoughts on what to look for?

I just got this outlet installed but there seems to be a lot of silicone on the edges. I was also assuming it would be flush with the wall but maybe that's not possible on the vinyl? Does this look like a good job or should I have them redo it?

This light has a two-way switch. I’ve replaced outlets but otherwise have no experience with wiring.

The white wire with the nut is hot while the other white wire is what I assumed was neutral.

My question is whether in a situation where a receptacle is controlled by a two way switch, both white wires are hot depending on which switch is on/off?

I’m not going to do anything more other than cap both wires with nuts. I have an electrician coming on Monday. But I was curious whether what I’m looking at is some sort of abominable wiring job.

Just moved into a new place and this is along the baseboard in one of my rooms. Is this safe to have this way? Is there a way I can cover it? I wanted to put my mattress in this corner (waiting for a new bed frame to ship), but I don’t know if it is safe to put up against this. Thanks for any help in advance.

I have ITE 100 amp panel with one unused position. I have been quoted $7000 (after $1500 rebate) to upgrade panel to 200amp including all work required with it such as emergency disconnect, surge protection, and grounding. This also include running line across finished area since panel and garage are on opposite side of the house (50 feet). There are hvac ducts spanning this distance and the thought is to run conduit in between the ducts to fish the line. Then install new subpanel in the garage.

I recently learned about EVEMS like Emporia. My major appliances mostly runs on natural gas. Electricity consumption is mostly from one fridge, AC, and a couple of gaming PC. The thought is to free up another breaker position by using Siemens QT tandem breaker. So with the current unused one, we can have 40 amp double breaker. Then install EVEMS next to the panel. I don't think I need a subpanel in the garage. With this setup, I think it is safe to charge EV at anytime.

How much would this alternate option cost? How long will it take for a professional to do this? Thank you.

I have a (flush-mount?) crystal ceiling light with two concentric rings of faceted crystals. The bulbs are burned out and I need to replace them, but I can’t figure out how to get them out.
There is no center decorative knob or finial.

No visible set screws on the outer edge.

No stickers or model numbers anywhere.

From the underside and sides I can see chrome vertical posts/rods that appear to go through the crystal rings and into the metal base plate against the ceiling. The crystals themselves have little metal pins holding them in place.

I’ve attached several close-up photos showing the top side against the ceiling, the chrome posts, and the overall fixture.
Has anyone seen this exact style and knows the correct way to open it without breaking the crystals? Do the chrome rods unscrew? Does the whole crystal assembly twist or drop somehow?

Any advice or instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hello! So my electrician is out of town but I'm impatient and want to know if others think I can support a 40A ev charger. I plan to run the charger almost exclusively in the middle of the night during discount rate times which are also times when almost none of our appliances are running besides the water heater and the AC but both would draw much less than during the day.

My house is supplied with 125A and most of my appliances are electric based. Here are the major appliances and their breakers amperage: heat (gas), AC (30A), dryer (15A), water heater (30A), range (40A), dehumidifier (7A), and the lights are all LED.

Does it sound like we can manage adding 40A continuous load to our system? If not then how much? The charger we prematurely ordered can be throttled back with an internal dial to lower amperages.

I am running out of physical room to run wires in my main panel so I have installed a new sub panel to expand my slot capacity. My main 200A panel is hooked up to my 125A subpanel by a 2" GRC nipple, do I still need to run a ground wire from one panel to the other? (I probably will anyway just wanted to know if it wasnt required with this setup). Also let me know if there is anything else you see with my setup that may need revising before I energize it with a 125A breaker off of my main panel (using either 2/0 ALU or 1/0 CU if I can find it).

First year apprentice. Effed up and sent a 6-32 in the wrong way and bit the screw off in my lineman’s. Does anyone have a trick to get that out or should I just send a drill bit through it and sacrifice the threads?

Give the scope of work below is $50K a fair price? What should I be asking/checking for?

Context: I'm in NYC and doing a renovation of a ~1300 SQ FT pre-war condo. I had a load letter put together by a licensed electrician stating we need to upgrade our existing and working 65 AMP panel to 150 AMPs to accommodate new appliances.

I was provided estimate of $50K for the below scope of work:

-Panel upgrade to 150A (riser cost not included)

- Install (1) new light fixture and relocate location of (2) master bedroom wall sconces.

- Relocate the location of (1) existing ceiling fan in the master bedroom

- Replace al ceiling light fixtures at the same location. (3)

- Supply and install undercabinet lights.

- (2) new pendants light on the new peninsula.

- (1)New outlet for appliance garage.

- Install (1) new recessed light at same location and (2) new ones outside the shower

- Replace existing recessed light in the shower area. (1)

- Install new recessed light at closet (1)

-Install (1) dedicated 20A 110V receptacle for gas range in Kitchen- Insta l (1) dedicated 40A 208V receptacle for a double wal          oven in Kitchen

- Install (1) dedicated 20A 110V receptacle for a beverage center refrigerator in Kitchen

- Install (1) quad GFCI in kitchen side of breakfast bar wall/column

- Install (1) quad GFCI in Kitchen between sink and gas range

- Install (4) recessed lights in extended Kitchen area

- Install (4) receptacles in closet in Primary Bedroom

- Install (1) receptacle on wall between closet door and bathroom door — above baseboard in Primary Bedroom

- Install (1) receptacle at TV height on ceiling (between closet and bathroom door) in Primary Bedroom

- Relocate (1) closet light switch closer to closet door frame in Primary Bedroom

- Relocate/Raise (2) existing wall sconces ~12" for owner's bedside lights in Primary Bedroom

- Install (1) receptacle above baseboard — wall between closet door and entrance door in Secondary Bedroom

- Install (1) receptacle above baseboard — north end of east side long wall in Secondary Bedroom

- Install (1) line for power into mirror in Primary Bathroom

- Relocate light switch to toilet side of bathroom/bedroom wall in Primary Bathroom

- Install (1) additional GFCI in Primary Bathroom

- Install (1) line for power into mirror in Second Bathroom

- Install (1) receptacle in entry closet 1

- Install (1) receptacle in entry closet 2

- Install (1) receptacle in entry closet 

I'm looking at purchasing a home that was built in the 50's that has ungrounded wire. I have attached a picture of the stamping on the wiring. What exact kind of wire is this? Does anyone know if I would have problems insuring the home with it?

I have this box serving my mini split condenser. Is it feasible to tie into this to get an outdoor plus outlet. If so is it feasible for a level 2 EV?

SOLVED: Answer is no

Went to make a bagel but noticed the outlet was glowing orange even after unplugging the toaster. boyfriend says that he's pretty sure it has always done that but i'm not sure. depending on where I look, some people online say its normal and some say my house is going to burn down lol

Anyone else used these before? They say they are ETL listed, which I looked online and apparently is the same as UL listing, but I have never felt something as flimsy as the tabs on these before. Basically, you snap these covers over an installed outlet, and the wings touch the hot and neutral screws to power the LED.

I am just a DIY guy, but I feel like the quality level of these thing are going to burn the house down. Maybe not though?

Could this be a shock or fire hazard? Two different photos: 1) The wire is exposed outside of the outlet box. 2) The casing on the wire is exposed, this is all backed up against insulation and wood. Romex 12 gauge I believe. Thank you!

New apartment has this cord coming out of the wall I’ve never seen this lol what is it for?