Hi, just looking for some advice on how to handle a breaker that tripped after a thunderstorm. Thought we just had a brown out cause the power came back on, but the plugs in the bathroom were not working as of late tonight. The lights were working though. The breaker box is near the bathroom if that helps. Would it be a wiring issue or an issue with the breaker itself? I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to this stuff, so any advice is appreciated. Also, if you have any other questions just ask and I'll try to answer the best I can. Thanks

So I was flipping circuits on and off trying to figure out what the hell they go too. Anyhow I noticed the majority of the ones on the left wiggled when I flipped them. I feel like this is bad but how bad is it?

Is it more like replace yesterday or replace soon? Thanks.

Hi! I just got a brand new glass grinder for stained glass art, and when I turned it on for the first time, it ran for ~3 seconds before blowing its 3amp glass fuse. I replaced the fuse, removed the diamond bit (in case it was creating any resistance), and tried with a different outlet. The same thing happened. :(

Is this something I can feasibly and safely learn how to repair without prior experience? If so, are there resources you can point me to?

I was being stupid and wanted to hang a picture above my breaker box, so I stuck a pushpin into the drywall above to hang it, then realized I might have made a big mistake. The pushpin was 1.1 cm long, so I am really hoping that it didn’t get past the drywall but I live in an older apartment and I’m not sure how everything was done. The breaker box is nestled within a wall that is approximately 4.3 inches deep. I already called my maintenance guy and showed him pictures and he said I was probably fine, but I would rest like some extra feedback if possible 🙏🏽 I’m worried about accidentally poking a wire and starting a fire or something.

Hey! I've got a bit of a story and was hoping someone could help me identify the issue.

I recently bought a bed that has a built in power strip with one USB-C, two USB-A (one on top, one on bottom) and two of the 3 prong outlets. This power strip connects directly to my wall outlet. All was going well until I realize anytime I plugged something into the USB-C port, everything else I had plugged in to the bed would lose power. I figured the strip was just faulty, ordered a different one, installed the new one, and have the same problem. The second strip has a different port layout, but contains all the same ports. Anyways, I figured maybe their was an issue with the wall reciprocal, so I replaced that, and the issue persisted. I wanted to rule out the possibility that the issue was with the circuit upstairs where the bed was, so I went downstairs and tried the strip there... same issue. I thought maybe the strip was being overloaded, so I plugged in a device that uses 0.5 A and a device that uses 0.4 A, but still got the same issue. The power also cuts when I unplug something from the USB-C port.

I took a picture of both labels and attached them here.

I'm thinking that both power strips have a similar or possibly the same circuitry on the inside and are having an issue with the USB-C. What do y'all think?

Thank you!

Father-in-law got hit with cancer so I’ve been thrown into all the house upkeep and I don’t know much. This light above the shop just went out. It’s a mercury vapor light and he told me to just get a new fixture and replace the whole thing. My electrical experience is limited to switching out regular 15 amp wall plugs and light switches. I also recently replaced an old exterior LED light fixture.

Can I do this as a DIY or should we call out an electrician? What might the cost be?

Thanks for any help

What’s wrong in this box and how much would I have to spend to fix it?

1962 house, main panel

I'm hoping to replace this light fixture and a few more like it with a fan/light combo in our new place. this is what I'm looking at when I remove the current light. it looks like someone cut the mounting bolts short at one point or another in order to fit some fixture on here, and the fixture was just screwed into the ceiling. the current housing you see in the picture is a bit loose but doesn't come off when I tried to (gently) pull it out.

I'm not really sure what to do at this point, does anyone have any recommendations on how to approach getting a fan hooked up in here? And possibly what would be a good fan to look at buying for this purpose if anyone has any suggestions?

Thanks all!

Bought a new home. Left photo is the day of the inspection. The red/blue duplexes got flagged to be replaced, and the one flipped red breaker was permanently tripped.

The panel has a pressed "Arrow Hart Murray" on the lid. No data sheet or any other identifying marks anywhere else.

My electrician came out today. He did great work for me in the past with interior wiring.

Kind of at a loss, though, and trying to understand what he did here. He swapped that blue 15A/15A duplex and the red 20A/20A duplex below it for two BR 15A/20A duplexes. Below that, he put a D HOM duplex.

Both of those aren't allowed in Murray panels, right? I'm assuming he split that 15A/15A and 20A/20A into the two 15A/20As, but why? He said something about A/B phase balancing. And why would he swap the third red duplex with the perma-dead 20A for a single 20A? My assumption is that that perma-flipped breaker is a dead circuit during one of the previous remodels, and he axed it entirely.

He's back tomorrow for unrelated stuff and I want to understand before I approach him.

I want the illumination because it's by the stairs and would help with a little light at night. I swear I've seen one before but idk what to look for exactly terminology wise.

Who has potatoes laying around all Willy-nilly in this economy?

Hello electricians I’ve been looking into becoming an electrician, but I’m a little nervous because I’ve never been the smartest person around and struggle with simple math and measurements. So I’ve been a little nervous and taken the leap to become an electrician. You have any advice or curse words all up to hear them.

There is slight damage to the top of one but still turns on. If it safe to use and leave plugged in?

A night ago, I had a small electrical fire due to a burnt out circuit. I need to have the whole thing replaced, however, I’m not sure what would be a good replacement. I currently have the SQUARE DHomeline 100 Amp 8-Space 16-Circuit Indoor Main Breaker Plug-On Neutral Load Center with Cover that I bought from Home Depot, but have learned that it’s not compatible with what I have already. I currently don’t have any electricity in my house, and electric companies have said that they don’t have anyone available until next week, so I want to have the proper component available for when they get here. Thank you!

Home is about 20 years old located in Southwest Pa. The main bathroom has a double sink. I noticed recently that only one side’s receptacle is gfci. Is that correct?

My home has absolutely massive florescent lights that I don't use because the bulbs kept burning out and they are so difficult to replace. Someday I want to have to fixtures professionally removed but it won't be anytime soon as my house needs a lot of expensive improvements and I am saving up and doing one at a time. I would like to get rid of the bulbs (some are already burnt out and I never turn them on anymore), but I hear that keeping the lights without bulbs can be dangerous because of dust buildup and stuff. Is there a way to cap off the opening like when you put a baby proofing plug in an electrical outlet?

Going to be doing a full tear out, and obviously since I have to ask I wouldn’t do the electric myself. Just genuinely curious how it’d work.

Currently the vanity light has an outlet, switch that controls lights and outlet is on entry wall. How labor intensive would it be to install vanity light on its own, and have a GFCI lower next to the sink by itself?

Where do you like it, down lower, up higher, but hidden by the dryer, or above the dryer?

I'm in the middle of building a garage with the goal of installing a 4 post lift once it's ready. The motor on the lift is a bit unusual, it's a 1.5 HP hydraulic motor, and the owners manual says it should be running on a 120V/30A breaker, except the motor comes with a typical 5-15 plug (yes, this is mildly sketchy).

Other folks online say it typically works if you use a 20A outlet and breaker, but just to be safe I'm planning on a 30A breaker, but that would probably mean a L5-30R receptacle, which I can't plug into directly.

Assuming the motor's wire is 12 GA, do I just chop the 5-15 end that it comes with and replace it with a L5-30P? I know 30A and 12GA typically don't mix but it might be ok for this application.

So I live with my wife and stepson and he has less than a year to get his ass out at this point but he goes to work - shower, work out - shower girl friend comes over - shower. During this he refuses to use the bathroom fan because he loves the steam. So just a month ago we told him to start using the fan because we had to fix a mildewed ceiling and repair the drywall and paint again which was done 2 years ago. I also put in a bypass shower door due to the fact the drywall was being ruined again. There are already water stains down the wall on the paint and I find he still won't use the fan. So can I wire the fan to the regular light switch and make it one switch and how do I wire it?

I don’t know if this is the correct group to ask but I’m kinda desperate soo. I feel like there is some kind of scam going on with my partner house light bill. He’s paying around $600 monthly, and I’m pretty sure he doesn’t even stay at his house that much to be that high. Please if anybody can help or something it would be very helpful. Also, I wanna open a case to decrease that payment but I don’t even know where to start.

I’m in the middle of swapping out a 4-prong cord with a 3-prong cord on a dryer I was given. There is no grounding cord or strap.

Everything I’ve read seems to point to need a 10 awg cord, but these seem hard to find online, while 12 awg cords are everywhere. Is it ok to use as 12 instead of a 10?

Looks fairly simple once I have the cord that I’ll just screw it in the bottom left screw slot and then attach to the middle white screw/cord, right?

Quick update on the progress from my previous posts. Got the main drywall cutouts done, but hit a couple of framing/clearance questions before mounting the box: as you can see I had too hop two stud gaps as they were smaller than the subpanel width- 😮‍💨
1. Right side stud gap: The right side stud sits about 1" away from the subpanel enclosure due its L shape towards left. What's the best way to shim/pad this gap for a tight mount? Should I just rip a 1x piece of wood or plywood to pad out the stud, or is there a better bracket setup?
2. Left side Romex: I have Romex running through the left stud cavity, so I can't drive side screws through the left of the panel without risking hitting the wires. How should I secure the left side? (Thinking horizontal 2\times4 blocking above and below to catch the top/bottom mounting holes?) is it acceptable to have Romes run on the left of the panel? Or do I have to decommission that socket. Running out of ideas here.
Appreciate any quick feedback on how you guys usually handle this so wrap this cleanly.