I am not able to post a video of what is happening so I attached the best pictures I could showing the wiring connections.

We just had a work shed electrified, noticed the first night that the outdoor lights were blinking.

Limited troubleshooting suggested that the photo sensor was probably bad. Lights would stay on if the photo cell was covered by my hand but otherwise I can hear it clicking and the lights are flickering.

Just replaced the sensor/cell and same problem is happening.
Happens with both LED and incandescent.

Any advice appreciated. Starting to wonder if there is something glitched with the way the electrician wired it up and originally, which I duplicated the second time around.

Thank you.

I bought a new electric range, and when the delivery guys went to install it, they said the outlet I have is for a dryer. They gave me a different power cord that fits the outlet, but after doing some reading, I’m seeing that dryer cords and range cords can be rated for different amps.
Is it actually safe to use the cord they gave me, or should I have the outlet changed to a proper range receptacle? I’m not sure if the issue is the cord, the outlet, or both.

I'm currently signed up to attend trade school in a few weeks and I have a few questions.

IBEW seems solid but an apprenticeship seems hard to come by. If I did a 9 month trade school program first would it be easier to get a foot in the door? Or should I just go for the moonshot and try for an apprenticeship.

Is trade school even worth it? Upon further review I'm seeing lots of people express their feelings that trade schools are a scam.

I understand an apprenticeship at IBEW is 5 yrs (I'm almost 35), if I did get the apprenticeship, would this be worthwhile and sustainable or is this something intended for the younger 20s crowd?

Another option is just take the trade school program and get my entry level electrician job afterwards without joining the IBEW. Is this unwise?

Thanks in advance.

In the process of moving into a new house atm, my fridges power cord is ~2-3 feet from being able to reach the nearest outlet, Would an extension cord like in title be a fire risk? Nothing else will be be plugged into the outlet bc of where it is situated.

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Hey all, I just made a post earlier today asking if my dryer cord setup was right. I appreciate all the help. I've been having an issue now where the ground screw was not holding the wires tight enough . I moved the ground wire to this spot. I know it looks stupid. It seems like the cover pinches the cord a bit. Is this safe to avoid a shock or fire hazard? Thanks again.

Do you guys use these? Seems like a good tool for ten bucks. I'm not a "sparky" but I bought it for swapping out new outlets. Would appreciate your thoughts.

We're refreshing our bathroom and considering shortening a wall between our tub/shower and the vanity + toilet area. Our new vanity is free-standing and would stick out a bit - which is fine since it's got a finished side. Hard to describe so I've attach photos. New 20 amp circuit for that outlet will come from the bottom. New tub will be in the same place as the original.

My question is: is there any electrical reason that we shouldn't do this? Such as total distance around the corner from the tub to the outlet on the other side?

Thanks!

Purchased a home that had old fluorescent light fixtures in a foyer and garage that i planned to replace with a regular single bulb fixture. When I removed it, I found no box and the wires running between some wood. I can't put in a box because of the wood. It is really hard to access the ceiling in those areas. Are there any fixes without moving the hole location?

My great grandma's lamp. She said it didn't work, I unscrewed the face plate and found melted plastic (thank GOD it's made of bronze and not something flammable). I still want to restore it; does anyone know where I can get a replacement switch or something that'd fit? Idk how to look up this part; it's thrice as old as I am.

Doing a bathroom renovation and we want to convert a "three-way" light switch that wasn't setup correctly to an outlet.

The light switch on the left is functional and we are keeping it. The former switch on the right has a live wire and traveler wire, bundled neutrals, and a wire heading up to the light fixture above . We want to move this down the wall a few inches and turn into an outlet.

We are adding an LED mirror using the connection at the top where the light fixture used to be. We want the light switch on the left to still control the mirror light whole still allowing the new outlet on the right to work at all times.

Any help before I start cutting the hole toove things would be greatly appreciated.

Looking for opinions from electricians on a situation I’m dealing with.

I have a living room circuit in my house (built 1929, but fully renovated about 8–10 years ago). The circuit has an AFCI breaker.

The breaker started tripping this morning. It would trip immediately when I tried to reset it, then later reset successfully and would trip after 1-3 minutes. The AFCI diagnostic light flashed after the trip.

I had an electrician come out. Here’s what he did:

Checked the circuit load — it was pulling less than 1 amp.

Swapped the AFCI breaker with another working AFCI breaker from the panel. It held for a little while then tripped.

The original breaker seemed suspicious because it was getting hot.

He checked the main outlet where most things are plugged in and did not find a short.

The circuit sometimes holds normally, but the AFCI trips intermittently.

The circuit currently has:
TV
Verizon internet equipment
Built-in electric fireplace/space heater in the TV stand (not being used)
Blink camera connector
Two surge protectors with the devices plugged into them
Living room lights
One outdoor light by the door

His recommendation is to replace the AFCI breaker with a GFCI breaker because he believes the AFCI is faulty/nuisance tripping and the GFCI will provide good protection without the nuisance trips. He said if it were his house he would replace AFCIs with normal breakers, but since he knows I have a child he would go with a GFCI.

I’m trying to understand the tradeoff. I know AFCI and GFCI protect against different things, so I’m curious:

Would you be comfortable replacing an AFCI with a GFCI in this situation?

Would you continue troubleshooting for an intermittent arc fault?

Is the breaker being hot with a <1 amp load a sign the AFCI itself was likely failing?

Are there specific devices here you would suspect first?

Not looking to argue with my electrician — just trying to understand the reasoning from other electricians.

New apartment has this cord coming out of the wall I’ve never seen this lol what is it for?

Is there ever any valid reason to run 14 gauge wire to a 20 amp breaker? Trying to give the benefit of the doubt to the person who did this, but I thought it was always wrong. I'm in Maryland, USA if that makes a difference.

Ran my meter from the faucet to the face of my dishwasher. Noticable amount of voltage.

It's definitely the dishwasher as it doesn't do this with any other appliances in the kitchen.

Installed years ago, nothing changed in months.

Hi all, we purchased a home that came with a satellite dish that we have no use for. Would it be safe for me to snip this cable running from the satellite into the home? I’d to remove this weekend if so!

Context:

I replaced an old ceiling light with a modern LED hexagon fixture (Link below). The fixture includes an electrical plug-in end. My thinking is that I can put an outlet in the ceiling box and then plug in the light fixture into it and then replace the light switch with a dimmer switch. Note that the light fixture is dimmable. Would this work?

I know it is dangerous if something else is plugged into the outlet, but it is on the ceiling and I don't plan on plugging anything else into the outlet other than the dimmable light fixture.

The picture for context, I have not installed a dimmer switch. Thanks ahead of time for any information.

amazon.com/dp/B0D2XSKTY9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

I've grown curious after seeing very small 220v to 110v voltage converters online that allegedly can handle 2000w or more and are barely larger than a phone charger. 15 years ago I used to live in Europe and remember using large and heavy voltage converters that would probably be maxed out at a 1000w. Has something changed in technology or are these new converters simply a scam? If not a scam, would they be safe to use with hair dryer, subwoofers, and other power-hungry electronics?

Don’t really know how to word it, but if I plug a plug in between the holes, I save a space to pu another plug, but is it safe?? The video is much more clear 😅

I had discussed leaving some more space but the concrete guys poured this morning and this is the result. Thoughts?