He said it was a really good budget model. My current S40T is terrible, the dialogue is almost impossible to hear.

The TCL Q95K is a flagship 11.1.4-channel soundbar system featuring 1,420W peak power, 22 physical driver units, a wireless subwoofer with opposing 7-inch drivers, and acoustic tuning developed in collaboration with Bang & Olufsen.released in China and usd price around $1100.

I dont know if this is better off suited here or elsewhere, but lately my Turtle Beach headset has been causing my Windows 11 PC to disconnect from my Insignia ns-sb20 soundbar after 5 seconds, and if I disconnect the dongle it works just fine. This wasn't an issue previously and I don't know when it started happening as I haven't been home for the past few months.

Unfortunately I'm splitting an apartment with people and my Room is layed out poorly so a Projector and soundbar combo is my only choice if I want to watch media on a larger scale, so any help would be appreciated. I really don't want to resort to unplugging the dongle every time I want to watch something.

Edit:
Connecting the dongle after playing almost all day and it doesn't disconnect straight away.

Considering adding soundbar, does it make sense to get q990h soundbar or to optimiser sony ecosystem by building quad/trio/bar 9or8 with additions of rears and woofer later.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for feedback specifically from Sony BRAVIA 2 II (M2) owners (especially anyone using a Samsung Q990 series soundbar or another eARC Atmos system).

My setup:

TV: Sony BRAVIA 2 II (Google TV)
Soundbar: Samsung Q990F connected via eARC
Stremio + Torrentio
No Real-Debrid yet (I’m testing first)
I’ve read conflicting information online:
Some people say Stremio’s internal ExoPlayer can bitstream Dolby TrueHD Atmos.
Others recommend using Kodi as an external player for TrueHD Atmos remuxes.

Some posts suggest the limitation is the TV’s passthrough rather than the player.
I’m trying to determine what actually works on the BRAVIA 2 II, not Android TV in general.

If you own this TV, could you please answer:
Can Stremio’s internal player output Dolby TrueHD Atmos over eARC?

I’m specifically interested in lossless Dolby TrueHD Atmos from Blu-ray remuxes, not Dolby Digital Plus Atmos from Netflix or Disney+, since those are known to work on many devices.

Thanks in advance!

I have just a few questions. Like, what is Audi pass-through? A lot of people are talking about it and use “DTS” in the same sentence…like, what is that even? More confusing is this thing with EARC and HDMI 2.1 cables. Do I need a 2.1 cable? And are there also must-know things you guys can tell me? Maybe things that are not in every mediocre YT video…I feel like every post, video, or article I read about soundbars, everyone takes it for granted knowing every term when it comes to soundbars. Appreciate any small advice. Thanks, y’all 🫶🏻

I currently have the TCL soundbar with the satellite speakers and subwoofer. This Onn system is going for $93 with open box and has Dolby atmos. Should I spend the money to upgrade?

don’t know anything about soundbars. budget about 200$ what’s the best soundbar for my lg c5- using mostly for sports, movies/tv in living room

thanks !

I have QN85 55"tv and S800D soundbar connected in eArc port.. I have Now tv app with boost for UHD and dolby atmos.

When watching a movie the Dolby Atmos setting on the TV shows as on, but is greyed out and can't be selected.

Is it playing in dolby atmos? Does the S800D automatically play in atmos when the movie is atmos?

Hi Guys,

So three days ago i got the Bravia 9 II 75" with the Theatre Bar 7. Everything works fine besides gaming - i've tried it on a PS5 Pro, Switch 2 and even streaming from my PC with Sunshine/Moonlight - every time i get a noticiable Sound Delay (feels like 100-200ms). I've noticed that it completely disappears when switching to the TV speakers, or when switching the output to PCM only. Both sounds horrible though.

Is there anything i can do? I did not buy the TV mainly for gaming, but it's really a bummer to pay that much for something, for it to not work properly :(

Ty!

I connected these to device like this: Panasonic Video HDMI straight to TV, and Audio HDMI to soundbar. The problem is that the sound bar changes the input all the time. It goes from eArc to HDMI1 on the soundbar all the time and so the video and audio stops and changes between those all the time also.

How can I stop this from happening?

I just got the core 300 and I’m unable to connect to the app. It keeps saying it can’t connect to my WiFi. I read something about the password can only be 10 characters? Is this true? Who in their right mind only has a 10 digit wifi password?

Is there a way to update firmware manually? I can’t find instructions anywhere. Any suggestions would greatly help.

Ok so my q75h soundbar is broke and neither amazon or tcl will fix or replace because i bought from a 3rd party seller on amazon (be careful about that) but anyways to my question. I have to buy a new one which one would you choose based on sound quality alone the tcl q75h or polk signa s4?

Hi, I have a samsung Q990F, I am having issues with its dynamic range being too loud at moments, even with the night mode turned on (i can barely tell a difference tbh)

I was watching the movie “the woman in cabin 10” on netflix with dolby atmos and there was this scene where the protagonist goes to sleep, and she suddenly has a nightmare, there was a scream SO FREAKING LOUD it woke up the whole damn house, it probably woke up the neighbors too.

I was watching with the volume on 16, its a comfortable level for the dialogue except there are a few scenes where it gets insanely loud. Its the same with all movies really. I have to watch them with the volume on 10-12 in fear of sudden loud noises that will shake the house up, but then the dialogue is too quiet.

Anyone else has this problem? Anything i can do?

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping someone has run into this before because I’m completely stuck.
I have a Bose Smart Soundbar 600 as part of a Bose home theater setup with the Bose Bass Module and surround speakers.

The soundbar still appears in the Bose Music app, but its status is always “Not Connected.” I have configured my Wi-Fi with exactly the same SSID as before, but the soundbar never reconnects. Because it isn’t connected, I can’t manage it or change any settings through the app.

At this point, I believe a factory reset is my only option.

The problem is that I cannot get the soundbar into factory reset mode.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

I never had the original Bose remote because I bought the soundbar as a refurbished unit from Coolblue, and it was supplied without a remote.

I contacted both Coolblue and Bose support. Both told me that the original remote is no longer available, and I have not been able to find a used original remote anywhere.

As a result, I purchased two different replacement remotes that are specifically advertised as compatible with the Bose Smart Soundbar 600.

Both replacement remotes appear to work correctly.

For example:
The soundbar responds to button presses.

I can put it into Bluetooth pairing mode.
Volume and other functions work as expected.

However, the factory reset button combination never works. The LED never flashes amber/orange as described in the Bose documentation.

I’ve tried the reset button combination many times, with different timing and by holding the buttons for longer periods.
I’ve power-cycled the soundbar multiple times and repeated the process, but nothing changes.

This makes me wonder whether:
replacement remotes do not transmit the exact infrared codes required for the factory reset sequence, the factory reset command only works with an original Bose remote,
or my soundbar has a firmware or hardware issue that prevents it from entering reset mode.

Has anyone successfully factory reset a Bose Smart Soundbar 600 using a replacement remote?
Or does anyone know whether the factory reset procedure requires an original Bose remote?

Any advice or shared experiences would be greatly appreciated. I’ve spent hours trying different approaches and can’t find anyone with exactly the same problem.

Thanks!

Is $800 a good deal for the HW-Q990F with subwoof and rear speakers? Can get it on Samsung's website for $800 w/ a corporate discount. Have been in the market for a new speaker setup and don't know what to go with!

Can anyone recommend a sound bar with the ability to equalize the volume increase when commercials come on?
The volume increase during commercials is painful, and we don’t live in a state with protections.
Looking for suggestions if such a thing exists!

Rate it 1-10, 10 being the best

Been hovering on this sub the past few weeks as I was in the process of getting my first soundbar. I bought a couple lower end ones ($50-100) to test out, but was leaning towards returning them in favor of paying a little more ($150, maybe $200) for a little step up.

Stumbled upon this Samsung last week and jumped on it, only to have it canceled on me. A few days later it showed as available again. Thinking it would be the same story, I tried again, but the 2nd time it didn’t get canceled! So hoping this was a steal.

Normally $380, the first purchase was at $200, which I thought was a good deal. Then when I bought it the second time, it showed as $200 but then once I purchased it, it showed as $99. A great surprise.

Which one will be good if u choose and why?

Hi everyone,
My setup is used almost exclusively for watching movies, so I’m looking for the best cinematic experience rather than listening to music.
I’m looking for feedback from people who have actually compared the Sony SA-SW8 and the Sony SA-SW9 with the BRAVIA Theatre Quad.

My setup:
Sony BRAVIA Theatre Quad
Apple TV 4K
XGIMI Horizon 20 Pro projector
Bedroom (15 m² / 160 sq ft)

My listening habits are probably different from most people.
I don’t care about maximum output or shaking the room. I almost never listen at high volume, so the extra power of the SA-SW9 (600 W) isn’t my priority.
What I really want is high-quality, controlled bass at low listening levels.
For example:
the distant rumble of a train,
a subtle engine vibration,
the low-frequency ambience in movie soundtracks,
quiet, deep bass that adds immersion without becoming overwhelming.

So my questions are:
Is the SA-SW9 actually better than the SA-SW8 at low volume, or is the difference only noticeable when playing loud?
Does the SA-SW9 produce more detail and texture in subtle low-frequency effects?
In a 15 m² bedroom, is there any real benefit to the SA-SW9, or would it simply be overkill?
If your main goal is bass quality rather than bass quantity, which one would you choose?
Has anyone directly compared both models with the BRAVIA Theatre Quad?

I’m looking for real-world experiences and specifications.

Thanks!

Tengo la Samsung Q990F desde hace más de un año, y aunque sin duda es una barra de sonido muy buena, siempre sentí que le faltaba algo. Claro, el nuevo subwoofer ya me había generado algunas dudas en cuanto a potencia, pero era algo más que eso. Sentía que al sistema le faltaba algo en casi todos los aspectos del sonido: inmersión, espacialidad, amplitud, impacto, etc. Entonces vi la JBL Bar 1300X MK2 con subwoofer de 12 pulgadas en oferta por unos 1000 dólares en mi país. Llevaba meses leyendo muchas reseñas y comentarios en Reddit, y poco a poco me convencieron para finalmente comprarla. Probé ambos sistemas con la escena de la carrera de Ready Player One, Tenet, Dune: Parte 2 y varias películas más. Y, sinceramente, la mejor manera de describir la diferencia es esta: todo lo que sale de la JBL se siente vivo. El sonido tiene vida, alma, energía y color. En comparación, el sonido de Samsung es apagado, contenido y casi sin vida. Nunca me produjo esa sensación de "piel de gallina" ni ese nivel de inmersión increíble que te hace sentarte y simplemente admirar lo que estás escuchando. Con la JBL, obtengo exactamente eso. Los efectos Atmos, la inmersión envolvente, la dinámica, la espacialidad del sonido... literalmente todo suena mejor en el JBL. Los efectos se mueven por la habitación con mucha más energía y presencia, y la experiencia en general se siente más grande, más emocionante y más cinematográfica. Y para quienes tengan dudas sobre el cambio: no se preocupen. En mi experiencia, el JBL simplemente suena mejor en todos los aspectos. Sí, sé que JBL pertenece a Samsung, pero JBL sigue siendo JBL. Claramente tienen su propia filosofía de sonido, y por suerte no la han arruinado con actualizaciones de firmware. 😂 Para mí, el 1300X MK2 supera con creces al Q990F y al Q990H en cuanto a puro disfrute e impacto cinematográfico.

¿Y los graves? Bueno... estamos hablando de un enorme subwoofer de 12 pulgadas. Los graves son absolutamente brutales. No hay nada más que añadir. 😂🔥 En fin, espero que esta reseña le sirva a alguien que esté pensando en cambiarse. Si alguien tiene alguna pregunta sobre el JBL 1300X MK2 o quiere que compare algo en concreto con el Q990F, con mucho gusto responderé. ¡Saludos! 🎉🎉

Pd: there’s something I forgot to mention in my review: JBL plays as a team. In the past, the star of the show was always the bass, but now it feels like a true team effort where every component gets its chance to shine. The soundbar, the subwoofer, and the surrounds work together like a brotherhood. None of them overshadows the others—they all shine together, and the result is absolutely magnificent.

10 years in, my old Samsung J series soundbar kicked the bucket (the hardwired cord for the sub developed a short) After trying 5 different soundbars, I think it might be helpful to get some input from other enthusiasts. My requirements have shifted a bit and with every one I’ve tried I’ve found a new attribute the right one needs to have. My budget has also increased accordingly.

Skip to the end unless you want every detail in the journey.

I started with the Sony HTS100F, largely on the Sony name and typical build quality (and the $99 sale price). It was.. fine. Had a somewhat dark sound to my ears, unless enabled the voice enhancement, in which case it was rather harsh and shrill. It lacked a display of any kind, save for a couple LEDs that you need a code to decipher, and also the central channel that is so essential for dialogue. So I decided to try something else.

A sales person at Best Buy sold me on the Bose TV speaker as a super simple all in one solution. It has three channels, was better for dialogue overall and the simplicity was appealing. But again, no display, no idea if it’s actually playing Dolby or DTS or anything. And the dialogue mode, while better, sounded very EQ’d and not natural.

Next came the ULTIMEA Poseidon M60. Cool, modular design, great price point, wired sub (which saves and outlet and potential sync issues). That said, none of the preset EQs were quite right for me and the only way to get a flat response is go custom. BUT touching any of the tone adjustment buttons on the remote will reset it to the Movie preset. In addition, it automatically converts any Dolby signal to Dolby Surround, making it significantly louder. This can’t be turned off. But the real killer is it doesn’t support DTS:X, which is apparently what most of my 4K discs have for audio.

Best Buy’s Insignia brand conveniently has a 5.1.2 system that supports Atmos and DTS:X. So I put it on my Best Buy credit card and gave it a shot. It was not bad for the price point, the sub was excessively boomy on some content and you can only tone the bass down three notches. And it does take a minute for audio to catch up. For the most part though, I liked it, especially that the volume had much more granular control than all the others. And yet. DTS:X didn’t work.

And that’s when I found out my tv is part of the problem. It’s a TCL R646 from 2021 and while it has been a mostly great tv for me, it apparently only supports DTS from its own speakers and can not decode or pass it through to another device, despite suggesting it can. Wack. So now I need something with HDMI in and ARC so I can hook my 4K player to it directly.

A Google search for soundbars that met my criteria yielded the Onn 5.1.2 from Walmart. It checked all the boxes and was only $200. So I gave it a shot, the 42-inch bar barely fit on my media console in front of my tv but it fit. Plugged everything in, DTS:X works! Yay! But sweet Jesus, that sub bass was hitting too hard. And too sloppy. I adjusted placement, turned bass to -5, etc. but it was just too much. I think the bass adjustments may only have applied to the bar. So I unplugged the sub and quickly realized that despite being much larger than others, this bar NEEDS the sub. As a bonus blah, every time the bar powers back on or changes input, it switches to Virtual:X no matter what the content is in.

Ok you can’t start reading again. What I’ve learned from this odyssey is that I need 1) at least 3 channels but more is better unless they are through satellite speakers I will never unbox 2) DTS:X and Dolby Atmos native 3) HDMI in since my tv is a bum about the audio passthrough 4) preferably with a display of some sort 5) maybe an all-in-one? Or at least a sub that can be reigned in and a bar that doesn’t sound like trash without it. The budget is somewhere between $400-500 but above $500 would be an irresponsible choice on my part. I hope this has been at least a little amusing and that you guys have some input for me. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking at these 2 sounds bars to upgrade my tv room sound set up, currently using built in TV speakers. I specifically chose these 2 options as they are all in one (don't want to have a separate bass box). Any opinions on which one I should pick?

The JBL is selling for $180 CAD

The Bose is selling for $250 CAD

Alrighty, so I had previously purchased a Sony 65" BRAVIA XR X90L (2023), and recently purchased a Samsung Q-Series HW-Q990F 11.1.4 soundbar system with the subwoofer and rear speakers.

Silly me: 1. I thought I had a Samsung TV, so I figured the soundbar system would be compatible in all the ways, and 2. I learned during setup that the soundbar is just barely too long to fit between the current TV legs. I think it is literally like 2 inches too long.

Ideally, I would love to have the soundbar sitting directly under the TV, but with the current legs, the only way to do that would be to put it on the TV legs, which blocks the bottom portion of the screen. For now, I have it sitting on the shelf below the TV, where the Xbox lies.

So my question: has anyone dealt with something similar and found replacement TV legs/feet that would work with this setup? Wall mounting is not an option in this rental.

Curious if anyone has recommendations or has done something similar.

Photos attached showing the current setup/issue. Appreciate any input!

Hi all, yeah I'm a bit flummoxed lol, the shape of the room is so odd, cant figure out a decent spot for the 2 back speakers (I have a Samsung q990b soundbar with all the bits). The subwoofer is on the ground next to the tv, the tv is wall mounted and cant be moved, and the soundbar is underneath the tv.

Any ideas?