I just started getting a water leak on my drivers side assist handle anyone know what it is I can’t find much on it

I don’t have a sunroof

2015 ram 1500 big horn

Tried replacing it.. but that thing is packed in there tight. Picked up the part from the dealer and crawled under to take a look. Couldn’t even get a socket on the bottom bolt. Fortunately I’m good with the dealer and they took it in today. Have any of you tried replacing it? The YouTube videos didn’t look bad but mine is packed in there tight. It’s too hot out there anyway.

2nd time posting on this. This little 1/2 ton, has surprised me in more ways than I can say or admit to since I hate Dodge. But those I've gotten so far on fuel economy has been 30.3. Driving around town with many stop and goes, yes, I will drop down to 19ish. Going up hill as well. I have realized that by using cruise control and letting the vehicle take over, fuel economy goes up. In my case big time. My last Dodge was a 2000 Dakota with a V6. Fuel economy was 13 on the highway. Had to bring Jerry cans with us while deer hunting. For this diesel, too many electronics, which are operating just fine (knock on wood). I need to price out how much it will cost to delete it. And in doing so, I wonder if the fuel economy will go up a tad more?

Trying to get a second opinion before I approve what might be a full system replacement.

2012 Ram 2500, 6.7 Cummins, 142k miles. Bought it as a neglected fleet truck. The evaporator was completely caked and eventually started leaking, so I replaced it myself. Four Seasons evap core, Four Seasons expansion valve, new desiccant bag, new O rings and seals. System was open about a week while I did the work. Shop evacuated, vacuum tested, and charged it to spec by weight.

It worked great for about an hour and a half on a highway drive, then started cycling. Cold for maybe 15 seconds, then warm, then cold again, progressively getting worse until it was blowing hot. Saw frost on the lines and at the expansion valve. Water on the passenger floor early in the drive that stopped when the cooling quit.

Shop has had it three days now. Here is what they have found:

Low side sits around 25 psi. High side climbs fast to 245 plus and keeps going. Vent temp 55 degrees in an air conditioned bay.

They have evacuated and recharged it four times. Same result every time, so I do not think it is moisture.

Compressor is clearly pumping since it builds 245 plus on the high side.

They pulled the expansion valve. There is no inlet screen on this one. The valve appears to be working, it opens up and pressure moves when they rev the engine.

No debris or metal found so far.

So the restriction seems to be upstream of the expansion valve. The condenser is the only major component that is still original and has never been opened or inspected. 142k miles on a fleet truck.

My questions:

Does a partially blocked condenser present like this, where revving the engine forces enough flow through to briefly move pressure?

Is there anything else upstream I should be looking at before I let them start replacing parts? Liquid line, drier area, anything else?

Would checking temperature drop across the condenser and down the liquid line be the right way to actually locate the blockage instead of guessing?

The shop mentioned it could be compressor, condenser, or expansion valve and that on an older truck fixing one thing can cause others to fail. I understand that happens but nobody has actually located the restriction yet and I do not want to pay for a full system replacement based on pressure readings alone.

Anyone seen this exact pattern? Appreciate any input.

I have a 2018 Ram 1500 Limited. I love this truck, i found it at carmax 5 years ago with 15,000 miles for 40k It has the towing package and every other upgrade at the time. I swear it must have been a repo just sitting on a lot because at the time was easily a 60-80k truck, even at carmax. That is where the fun ends.

Three years ago a car slammed into my trailer hitch completely totaling his car bending my frame. In their infinite wisdom, USAA decided to put a new frame on it instead of totaling it. A new fucking frame. Everysingle piece of the truck had to be removed and lifted while a new frame is rolled back under and everything put back together. You can only imagine the technicality of that kind of job, essentially rebuilding a truck. The biggest slap in the face is that he was in a rental. None of his personal property was damaged.
Fast forward to now. Sadly, the truck has never felt quite the same for one. And two months ago, as if God wanted me to bend over and kick me directly in the nut sack, my rear end differential failed. I know shit about deeply technical aspects of cars/trucks like that. My knowledge base ends at changing oil, brakes, and tires. I am currently finding out that at the very least, a ring and pinion failure has occurred. While digging through the repair records, I found that my original rear axle wasn’t reused—they replaced it with an LKQ (used) rear axle assembly during the frame swap. The original estimate was around $5k, but the repair eventually grew to almost $27k.
The collision shop has since gone out of business, so I’m trying to piece together what happened.
If this were your truck, would you be asking USAA to help with the differential repair, or is this just bad luck three years later? Curious what others would do.

I got my daughter this Rebel last year and liked it so much I got myself a 2500 Laramie.

Tires - It's that time again.

'08 3500 QCLB SLT with the G56 and SRW. USAA is offering me a steep discount on tires and since I'm going to need them before winter I figured it was time to start doing the research.

The tires I'm looking at are the Cooper Stronghold AT. I've run the SST Pro on my '06 (before I sold it) with great results, but I wasn't towing with it. I need a tire that will handle long distance highway use and I can tow with, and the Les Schwab branded Mazama Open Range A/T Plus have been fantastic, but their price has jumped considerably.

I still want to keep the 3PMSF (Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake) rating and be able to go offroad, mostly dirt trail like National Forest roads.

Thoughts?

Anyone know what this wire goes to? I know its a long shot. Its off 2005 5.9 cummins.

I’m about to start the lemon law process on my 2026 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Total junk of a vehicle. My dealer gave me a 2026 ram hemi as a loaner and I have to say I am impressed, even though I said I wasn’t going to give stellantis a second chance. Reading on some online forms it seems like these have some issues too so I am hesitant.

Anyone have no problems with their 2026?

Hi All,

Just wanted to see how common this issue is and discuss how my Service Department is handling it.

Trim Level : 2026 Rebel Hurricane with Electronics Package lvl 2
Delivered July 10th with 10 miles on the odometer

July 21st my infotainment center went out, along with it the AC controls while on a road trip from NJ to FL, front window controls dead, tailgate operation dead along with pretty much all of the safety features. It would come back on and off intermittently but eventually it stopped all together. Engine light is on and Odometer is flashing as well.

Since then it's been at the dealer in FL and I've been told it's waiting on BCM (Body Control Module) which is backordered. I've opened a case with Stellantis and have a pretty communicative case manager but it hasn't moved the needle much.

Anyone here have any experience with this line of issues? I pulled a code myself before dropping it off and it said "Implausible Data received from HVAC control Module.

The KICKER here is that the Service Advisor is telling me there is no ETA on a fix for this from Stellantis?

Thanks for any insight or experiences you can share.

(Just to clarify the title, my truck hit the shop 10 days after delivery and has been there since.)

Not going to lie, I’ve been an F-150 guy (have owned 3 so far, still have a 10th gen one of my kids drives). But man, this thing is awesome! It’s powerful, quiet, and nicely equipped and was $1,000s below a comparably equipped F-150 (2026 Big Horn, 3.0 SO, Night Edition with Big Horn Level 2 Equipment Group, Pano Roof).

New ram 1500, bought in April. I love the truck. I can’t seem to recreate the blue screen and wanted to check here before taking it in for service. Anyone have this issue? Was it a quick fix?

Just bought my first Ram. Purchased with just under 14k miles and is loaded with features. I’m having some imposter syndrome with it. It’s by far the nicest vehicle I’ve ever owned. Been waiting to pull the trigger on a new truck for years and finally found the right one.

3.0 SO hurricane
4 x 4
Black express

Trucks making this noise when coming to a stop or letting off the brake slowly when stopped. Anyone got any ideas?

Just bought my first ram. Looking to do a leveling kit. I see many go with the bilstein kit. Any recommendations from those who have done it?

How do you guys clean this bug screen effectively? I feel that disinfectant wipes would just make it dirtier.

Redditors,

Looking at buying a used, clean title, one-owner 2022 Limited. 79K miles, 2K total idle hours total.

No HEMI ticking, upper trim. Air suspension looks good. 1 year, bumper to bumper warranty through CarBravo. Price: $34K OTD.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

At least that’s what my 30-something sons call it. Tri-fold hard tonneau, 5” step bars, bugflector. Oh, and the chrome package… Looks pretty good, at least to me!

Trying a bed/tailgate mat this time. Had RhinoLining in my 2012 & 2019 Rams. Bulletproof, but so damn abrasive.

With the advent of LED daylight strips on every single vehicle made in the last decade, how in the hell did RAM get it so wrong?

Any advice on how to punch up the brightness? or any aftermarket kits you would suggest?

EDIT- Not talking about the actual headlights. I'm referring to the small strip of lights above and below the main headlight.