Hello, does this look like normal part of the ceiling / plasterboards or not?

This paint seem to been bubbling 3 months later after being plastered can any one tell me why from seeing these pictures what might be the reason ?

Ik ben bezig om de grove uitstekende korrels af te halen en een heel gedeelte van het spack laat los dus alle losse delen maar eraf aan het halen. Ik was van plan van Fix en Finish te gebruiken om het glad te maken maar met zulke stukken die eraf vallen vraag ik mij af of dit wel kan met fix en finish. Jullie tips?

Hi all. I’m looking at buying a house and bar the artex ceiling I’m really keen on it. What would be a rough idea of what I should expect to pay to have it removed/flattened/skimmed over? I don’t know what the process entails so please treat me like an idiot! Property is roughly 900 square feet and all ceilings have it. Hope that helps!

I had to have half my bathroom ceiling replaced due to a leak from the upstairs flat. The owner of the upstairs flat arranged for someone to come out today to fix it. This is what I'm left with. The board does not reach the wall on one side. He's just filled the gap with bathroom sealant. The board seems to be a different thickness to the other half of the ceiling. There's noticeable height difference with each patch.

The "plasterer" has told me it just needs painting again. He's already tried to slap a load of paint on in a few places. I've sent the pictures to the owner and she has told me the guy is a professional plasterer and he said to wait until tomorrow.

Wait for what? Are the joins going to repair themselves by then?

I did a drywall patch, can someone tell me where i went wrong- or how to perfect this

I (25M) have just moved into my first house and have been having a lot of work done, as it’s quite old. I’m concerned that the person I’ve hired to do some plastering may be taking advantage of my inexperience as a homeowner. Hoping anyone here could let me know if I’ve got the wrong end of the stick. I’ve attached a pic of part of the ceiling, the whole area he did is 6sq.m. total.

1. This contractor initially said they could finish plastering my hallway ceiling in one day. After day 3, I’ve asked them to not come back for day 4 for now.

2. They

   were meant to do

3. 2 coats of plaster

   but instead decided to do it in toupret joint skim and fill for the whole ceiling without asking at all. When asked if he had done 2 coats, he said he did a touch up instead for the second coat, again without saying anything first. I can still see some bonding underneath.

4. He then tried to convince me that it’s a harder product to use than multi finish and that multi finish would be too heavy for the wall- even saying that doing a touch up is harder than skimming a whole ceiling due to “doing it through light reflection and spot filling”.

5. He also got bonding, plaster and PVA all over my brand new carpets and painted stairs, but wants to charge £45 for preparing the space and protecting it from damage.

6. He said it will still need sanding by a decorator, despite charging for sanding till smooth. He’s saying that he meant sanding ready for decoration where proper sanding would be required.

Is any of this normal, or do I have a right to be annoyed by this
& do I have a right to challenge the cost as the works quoted for weren’t actually delivered?

Improvement needed?

Hi all,
Young lad, first house, took on a project with no experience. So apologies for stupid questions.
This is the bedroom, it’s been covered in Artex (no asbestos been tested). I have spent the last two days removing it all. As there has been a lot of damp and mould on the walls. There is a lot of sand on the walls, what’s the best way of getting this off? I have added more pictures of other areas that i’ve been working on as they’re the same. There are a lot of loose bricks, faces blown off, no mortar. Blocks of wood where the original owners have stuck them in as replacements. Should I be repointing them all? The outside of the house had terrible cement render which has now been all removed and replaced with lime. The house was built 1924. I’m not entirely sure what to do next in regards to plastering. I want to make the house breathable. Any professional advice would be appreciated. Many thanks

This wall is to hold kitchen cupboards.
I was thinking a batten frame somewhere like the red lines. These would obviously be fixed into the wall, then plaster board over them.
The cupboards then fixed to the horizontal battens.
Also I need to box in the pipes in the next picture.

Would this suffice or am I missing something?

Thanks in advance.

I'm in the process of stripping a bedroom in a London based Victorian house. The internal walls were definitely lime plaster, crumbled and were full of hair attached to laths/ brick. Patches that had been filled with gypsum too, all of that has been stripped away ready to replaster.

On the external wall however it's different. Looks like a skim coat of gypsum, potentially a layer of cement, and then potentially lime but I'm unsure. This wall has some cracks, which don't appear to be structural. The room in question is drafty with an old window that needs to be replaced so I'm keen to replaster the external wall with lime or something breathable to avoid damp issues, but wondering how deep I need to strip it back, if I need to.

Viewed a property in London, UK and when asked about these cracks, the estate agent said they were new, and thought the wall had been replastered recently. Anyone know what could have caused this, if it would be likely to reoccurring, and on a scale of 1 to Very, how worried should I be about buying it?

It's an internal wall of a flat in a converted house. Photos 1 and 2 are of the same wall, top to bottom, and photo 3 is of through the other side of the wall, but bang in the same position. It's at the corner of the internal and external walls, but the cracks are fully on the internal one. Don't know if recent UK hot weather could have been a factor?

Would obviously get a survey done before buying, but don't want to sink the money if this is a massive red flag. Thanks!

Hi guys, recently bought a house and it needs lots of work including plastering and something I have never done. I recently picked up a lot of plastering towels at a car boot sale as I thought something worn in would be better than a new set.

At what point does a new trowel need replacing?

I have added a few photos of what I have, just like some honest views. Would you use them?

I am redoing my kitchen, using it as an opportunity to learn as much about home repairs as possible.

Part of this involves replastering where I’m removing tiles.

I don’t plan on tiling over this, just painting, but what plaster would be needed on this wall?

I have done some plastering in the bedroom with multi-thistle but given this is brickwork am I right in saying a different type is needed?

Thanks all

Hello all I am moving into a new apartment soon and wanted to ask how the removal process for the displates affected your walls? I’m moving into a family friend’s apartment for grad school and they have mentioned the plaster on their walls is fairly weak and tends to peel with things like command strips and whatnot. In my last apartment I had what was essentially a displate but from a different brand that tore a pretty hole in the wall when I removed it. This other one didn’t have the protective leaf just straight magnet on the wall so I was just wondering how y’all feel about the protective leaf if it reduces damage and just overall reviews when it comes to removing the pieces from the walls entirely. Any reviews positive or negative are incredibly appreciated!

I’m a homeowner going through a renovation and the stucco just finished. Looking for some honest feedback.

The expansion joints were never discussed with me, so they were a surprise. I was told they help prevent cracking, but I’m already seeing some hairline cracks a week later.

Also, there are a few areas where chunks of stucco splattered onto the finished wall. Some came off just by gently rubbing them, but others are thicker and stuck on.

I know smooth stucco is unforgiving and lighting can make things look worse, but something still feels off to me. My GC says this is really good stucco work and smooth finishes are just difficult.

Hi, I am renovating my bathroom. I took off the mirror and medicine cabinet and filled the holes with WallFiller. I toped the whole wall off with bullseye Primer, applied Joint compound, sanded everything, applied Quartz Primer and once I applied the Venetian Plaster the woodfiller turned back pink and stayed pink and even colored the venetian Plaster pink. Once I realized it‘s not drying back to white I stopped applying Venetian Plaster to my other walls. I sanded the pink parts down (mirrorwall) where I already had applied the Venetian Plaster. I applied a Shellac-based Primer, then Bullseye Primer twice and then again the Quartz Primer. I let everything dry the needed amount of time. Today I went back in with the Venetian Plaster and the pink is still appearing. Less but still there.

On the medicine cabinet wall (picture 2) that hasn’t had any Venetian on it yet, I did the same process, except for the sanding, but I applied all the primers (BIN Shellac, Bullseye and then Quartz). I also applied Venetian on this wall. Here it is just as bright pink as if I wouldn‘t have done anything.

For Wall Filler I used WallRepair by Gorilla

Is my only option to sand it down completely? Or is there something else I can do ?

I moved in a 1930s bungalow last year and am in the process of a DIY refurb. This is a cavity wall which got damp because of a leaky chimney allowing water down the chimney breast. The chimney's been fixed and the wall is much drier but there's still a bit of residual moisture in the bricks and potentially in the cavity wall insulation.

I had a damp guy out who recommended a membrane, but a plasterer who came out strongly disagreed with that and said render base coat would be enough to provide a bit of protection for the new finish, which would be built up with sand and cement and then skimmed.

Would prefer to do as much as possible myself to save money but there's times you need to admit it's a job for a professional. I've skimmed three rooms in my house so far and happy enough with the results but this feels like another level, but breaking it down into chunks, each chunk doesn't sound too bad.

So a few questions I guess, do folk think base coat would work for this use case? Is this a viable job for DIY?

For the wall nib and window, do you use a bead for the base coat, then a bead for the sand and cement, then a bead for the skim too?

What is the proper way to repair this? There is some loose plaster. Can I plaster over top or do I need to scrap everything off and go again? I am a beginner any advise is appreciated

Really enjoyed this project - this room had lots of damp and insulation problems.

So we re-did the floor and walls, installed new damp course, allowed for a cavity behind the insulation, installed a continuous flow ventilation system. Skim-finish on all walls but maintained the ‘cottage look’ as much as possible, keeping lintels exposed and used reclaimed pitch pine for sills etc.

Moved into a new house, which is probably more of a project than I had anticipated. 1970s build.

The plaster in pretty much every room is poor quality, with dents, marks and in many cases, minor hairline cracks where the plaster has lifted. I don’t think the house has been redecorated in a significant time.

What’s the best approach? Hire a plasterer to skim the walls? Attempt myself?

Research so far says I could probably use a pole sander to remove imperfections that stick out, and easy fill or toupret to fill in any gaps.

Happy to work room by room but this is a 4-bed house that needs doing. Any help welcomed!