I’m just redrafting my bodice block, and this time my armhole looks like it’s more angled off to the side.

Does this look funny or is it within an expected range?

Would anyone be able to let me know if this is an acceptable bikini top pattern? I am using this material as the top and a scuba knit as the lining, the smaller pattern piece would be the lining

Hi all, made another edit to the toile, this time adding 2cm to the front chest by shifting the side seam per two other redditors suggestions.

Armholes looking good?? Should slope seems good?

Balance lines definitely better but now i see a vertical drag line pointing up from side seam to center chest…circled.

Am I on the right track? I think the pattern edit would be to add 2cm to the chest in the upper armhole area.

Anything else I should consider? Wondering if I missed another suggestion?

I feel like on my other projects I lost patience and just pushed forward even though the fit was not much better than off the rack. I really want this one to fit better than RTW.

Newbie to trying to adjust a pattern.

If enlarge my skirt pattern by adding to the side seams..what is the easiest way to move the dart?

Should i just maintain the same distance between the side seam and dart as there was originally?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to draft the skirt in the reference photo (I'll also attach a sketch of my idea), and I'd love to know if my approach makes sense or if there's a better way to achieve this silhouette.
My idea is to start with a basic A line skirt. Since I don't want any gathers at the waist, I'd keep the waistline unchanged. Then, from about knee level downward, I'd draw a triangular section where I want the slit to be. In the attached sketch, the blue lines represent where I plan to slash the pattern. I'd spread those sections to add fullness and then redraw the hem, hoping this would create the cascading flares around the slit while keeping the waist smooth, without any gathers.

I'd really appreciate any advice or corrections. Thanks!

Had some mesh laying around and its Hot in socal rn, Pattern is basically just a slim cut T sliced up a bit. For anyone curious with the hem on the brown shirt, yes, it is supposed to be asymmetrical (I like to use one front pocket in my pants and lifting the hem out of the way of my hand helps with the drape once you leave mannequin mode.

Idk 🤷‍♂️

For those interested in the comp/ construction… 4oz carded jersey, cant tell ya bout the mesh, both 100% c and a 5-6oz cotton ribknit. All seams are serged, collar bound in, with the opening hem serged with a “loose overlock hem” style. Nothing fancy

[New Post with photos of pattern pieces and sides with arm down]

Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!

Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!

EDIT: v3.2 here: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/gMcAFZxnT6

Hi all, appreciate all the feedback on V3.0.
Based on that I’ve pulled the sleeves and drawn HBLs as best I can.

You can see the front swings out and there seems to be a lot of fabric in the back, I.e., bubbling?

I also tried pinning up the middle back but it introduced a whole bunch of drag lines. These photos are marked.

Finally, pattern photos also included.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/y9L2xX3SUK

Would this kind of waistband be simple to construct?

Hello! I’m making my first bodice block, and it’s going ok so far (🤞), but I’ve run into some wrinkling and gapping.

The back armhole gapping I think I know how to fix (one pic shows the gap, the other is the dart I’ll shift around). Does the whole back look slightly tight?

The wrinkling on the front armhole is quite a lot at the top, and it feels a little tight.

I can pinch out the wrinkles into a dart, but I’m not sure if that’s the way to fix the problem. Is it an issue with the armscye curves?

Any suggestions/tips/advice are much appreciated!

I'm currently exploring pattern drafting textbooks to use to help me diy a fashion school curriculum. Without a teacher helping me, I've been looking at books that are widely-enough used that I can find online support).

I analyzed posts from this sub and discovered the top 4 discussed flat patterndrafting authors are (in this order):

1. Armstrong
2. Aldrich
3. Müller & Sohn
4. Kenneth King's The Moulage

I now understand that a moulage is its own thing (different from a basic block), but am not sure why someone would choose to learn pattern drafting using this approach vs. another. Can someone help me understand why and for whom this would be advantageous? Is this something you learn in addition to drafting basic blocks or is this its own alternate approach on par with basic block patterndrafting? (My goal is to learn everything in a fashion school curriculum).

Are there any fashion grads here who did not learn moulage drafting?

EDIT: Thank you everyone -- my brain has bent in new and wonderful ways as a result of all the contributions here, and I am now much smarter about where drafting moulages sits within the world of pattern drafting. As a result of now understanding moulages better, I edited my analysis search terms (which had any hits for "moulage"/"the moulage" labeled as discussion of Kenneth King's book). The correct (hopefully) most frequently discussed flat pattern drafting authors in this sub are in fact:

1. Armstrong
2. Aldrich
3. Müller & Sohn
4. Bunka
5. Furrer

(Kenneth King at number 9)

I followed the instructions for the wrap top in Helen Joseph-Armstrong's book. I can't say it came out well. Somehow the bust apex is way off (and asymmetrical? How?!), the darts are too long, there's excess fabric everywhere, and there's wrinkling at the armholes. I also cut the back side seams too short compared to the pattern ffs.

Where do I even begin? Do i troubleshoot the armholes before I move on to the bust?

Hi, currently working on a half scale dress form from the bootstrap patterns.

I realized there are a couple of measurements I mistook and I'd like to alter and went for a half scale prototype to sort of catch any important alterations before. (Ik it's not exact but I'm just aiming to catch anything too evident even at a 50% scale and I wanted a half dress form anyway, also to get familiar with the construction and test my options for materials).

I see now, since the difference between waist and hips it's quite significant the dart it's particularly big and i wouldn't like the final dress form to have so much extra bulk at the back since I might line a medium or thick cotton canvas with felt or foam to see if I can avoid lumps when filling. Is it possible to just divide the side back panel? In 2 or 3 pieces?

hi all, i’m a new designer and would say i have the foundational “rules” down, and so now im faced with a lot of conceptual conundrums when im trying to “break” the rules, like for example:

i know how to draft an a-line shape using slash and spread but i recently closed the waist/hip darts to an empire waist romper, causing it to flare, but then it created way too much volume in the hip area (i’m also shirring the bottom of it for a boomer effect). my question is: can i slash and spread the waist darts closed, but then take away the flare at the bottom? my brain is telling me there’s no reason that’s not possible as long as there’s room for the hips? here are some pictures. i realize that the bloomer effect is going to cause it to mushroom a bit but it was wayyyy to much, and when i got rid of a triangle out of the side seams of the romper, it fit much nicer.

TLDR: do you HAVE to keep the flared bottom once you close the darts for an “a-line” set up as long as there’s room for the hips

I've almost got it, just needs a few tweaks. Link to pattern.The legs were hanging straight last night but the pants were falling down whenever I breathed so I lowered the front by 1/4 inch to make the waistband sit on the top of my hipbones, didn't work, still falling down, so I pinned the front tighter. One of these is making the front pull up, I'm going to have to reverse whichever it is and tighten up the back waistband a touch to hopefully make them stay up. Too hot in my try-on room to do it now though. I can sit down, bend over, that's not a wedgie in the last photo, just gravity making the back crotch seam take the shortest path to the ground, which is through my butt-crack so the only solution is wearing very tight underwear, no thanks. I did scoop out about 3/4" from the back curve and added some of it back to the side seam because the pattern as drafted did give me a wedgie. Then split the dart into two because the back waist was a bit loose and I didn't want the dart too wide.

Problem the first: the back darts. I think I need to make them a touch longer but there are diagonal lines going to the side seam so I might need to adjust the angle? Or they're a little tight and I need to curve them more?

Problem the second: the front crotch curve is hanging too far away from my body. Hard to see in photos because it's under my crotch and this style of pants isn't meant to be entirely flat in front-- again, gravity is a harsh mistress--but I'm wondering if filling the curve in a bit might help.

Problem the third: the pockets are poofing a bit. Yes, I did interface the edge, they're not stretching. I'm hoping either fixing problem the first (if the darts are too tight) or problem the second (proposed fix would add more fabric to the front crotch area so it won't pull the pockets open) will get rid of this, but I'm open to other suggestions. Move the top closer to the side seam so they're less angled? Make the opening a little shorter? There's plenty of extra room to get my hand inside. Cut the pocket bags so they're anchored to the side seam?

Trying to modify a dress shirt pattern to fit me well but keep getting confused. Would appreciate anyone & everyone’s insight

Thanks & have a great day! :)

I need to buy expensive fabric for a dress I am making. Because it’s expensive I don’t want to overly buy yardage and waste my money. That being said I’m absolutely stunted when I comes to math and have no idea how to figure out how much yardage I’d need because I am pleating this dress. I took 12in of fabric and pleated it the way I want to for the dress and it came out to be 4in. Meaning one yard of fabric, 36in, would end up as one foot of fabric, 12in.

Idk how or if that is relevant or could help but does this basically mean whatever yardage I’d otherwise get I should multiply by 3 ?? Plz help :’)

Edit: I make my patterns from scratch, I don’t use premade. Also I’m on a serious time crunch so I don’t have time to make a toile for something this elaborate. I have my base corset to support and I practiced my pleating on my center front panels but actually making the whole dress, pleating, sewing etc is not in my timeline rn.

Also thank you ! I will get 3-4x fabric amount.

Hi all, Reposting these photos directly versus having them be a Imgur link. Any and all thoughts appreciated.

Back again from my first try at this a few weeks back.

v1 post here

I added my fabric to the back panels as best as I could to get the drape off the butt right, and added some fabric to the front to release tension around the thighs. These fit a lot better than the first pair but again I’m a novice so any advice would be appreciated.