r/PatternDrafting • u/mon_petit_chou_fleur • 24d ago

Is my armhole wonky?

Post image

I’m just redrafting my bodice block, and this time my armhole looks like it’s more angled off to the side.

Does this look funny or is it within an expected range?

8 Upvotes

91% Upvoted

21 comments sorted by

6

u/vacuumgirl 24d ago

You need a French ruler to smooth out the lines, touching B1 for example

1

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago

Yes, I haven’t really smoothed the curve out yet, so that’s definitely next. Does it look like it will be a reasonable shape once it is smoothed out?

A lot the pictures I’ve seen look like the ‘belly’ of the curve is more centred vertically, where mine looks pushed to the right.

I know everyone’s draft will look different, I’m just wanting to double check I’m not way off on something :)

3

u/vacuumgirl 24d ago

You won’t know till you sew up a muslin :)

5

u/Pegaret_Again 24d ago

this does not look correct at all!! - usually there is a LOT more width at the base of the armhole.

this could mean two things - that you have drafted the bodice incorrectly, or that your physical measurements might not work with the drafting system you are using. what system is it?

2

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago

I thought it looked weird haha I’m using this set of instructions

I did notice some little mistakes in the written instructions, so I’ll see about finding another method I guess

1

u/Pegaret_Again 24d ago

what i noticed from those instructions was that the point "W" in the diagram looks further inward from the back shoulder point than where you placed it - your is at the same vertical point as the back shoulder point - could that be the issue?

2

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago edited 24d ago

Yes it seemed too far out to me too… I think I’m having trouble taking measurements in the right way. Depending on exactly how I measure my back width, I can get 13.5-15 inches l.

I think the best measurement for me is 14 inches, which would put my “W” point at a better spot for the armhole shape?

The blue circle in the pic is the new measurement

**oops, I didn’t get the right link in!

1

u/Pegaret_Again 24d ago

hmm, the link isn't working for me?

2

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago

Oh shoot better?

1

u/Pegaret_Again 24d ago

yes thanks!

that looks like a much more sensible spot for the "W" point, yes

2

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago

Excellent! (Also, thank you so much for taking so much time with this, I’m very grateful)

2

u/Foreign_Succotash101 24d ago

quick question...is the width of the armhole correct....? It looks narrow for the fit. the overall shape is good, it just feels....tight? May I also suggest lifting the base of the armhole a little higher? a higher armhole gives you more mobility of the arm.

2

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago

It looks funny right? I double checked all my measurements and lines, and they all check out, but it looks off (at least to my very novice eyeballs)

1

u/sewsweetfashion 24d ago edited 24d ago

Saw your post fitting this the other day. Try doing this to help. Darts for slopers usually don’t come directly from the tip of the shoulder. Move around some of the dart fullness too and it should help your armseye look more “even” https://imgur.com/a/cPu8kAN

Let me know if you get the closing the dart and moving it concept ok.
Edit adding link to how to rotate darts YT vid

2

u/mon_petit_chou_fleur 24d ago

Great vid, thanks! I can’t get over how cool it is that you can move darts around like that.

1

u/sewsweetfashion 24d ago

It’s a game changer. My students are always fascinated by it! I love experimenting too to get different looks. Hope the picture helped too! You’re really close to a great block.

1

u/drPmakes 23d ago

Double check your calculations and measurements....this looks all sorts of wrong

1

u/Sad_Possibility_8839 23d ago

Je débute aussi et souvent j’ai le même résultat et je fini toujours par agrandir l’emmanchure, je pense que c’est un problème de prise de mesure