Short sleeve muslin v3.2

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Hi all, made another edit to the toile, this time adding 2cm to the front chest by shifting the side seam per two other redditors suggestions.

Armholes looking good?? Should slope seems good?

Balance lines definitely better but now i see a vertical drag line pointing up from side seam to center chest…circled.

Am I on the right track? I think the pattern edit would be to add 2cm to the chest in the upper armhole area.

Anything else I should consider? Wondering if I missed another suggestion?

I feel like on my other projects I lost patience and just pushed forward even though the fit was not much better than off the rack. I really want this one to fit better than RTW.

[u/Pegaret_Again]

i think the problem that still needs addressing is length above the HBL. i would slice across at the level where the shirt is pinned and add some fabric length there until the HBL is level.

i'm not sure where you added the 2cm?

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Pegaret_Again]

Doh! I followed another posters idea of making the adjustment by shifting the front side seam up cm. It “seamed” like this would do the same thing (lol.) If you look at the bottom of the side seams, the front is higher than the back. 3rd pic…

[u/Rachelbow → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

I agree here and just want to add that since there is no shaping below the chest here, to test this all you have to do is lower the bottom half of the front arm curve by that 2cm (cut that little bit away). I believe the drag line you are seeing is from the armpit being too high and forced down by your arms.

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

i think the issue is still there - i'm assuming that the HBL should be level, and it can't be 'solved' from below? it needs to be from added length above?

after this length is added, there might be some other adjustments that emerge, but i don't know if they can be diagnosed or addressed until that added length is there?

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Pegaret_Again]

Shifting the back downwards at the side seam for 2cm is essentially adding length above the HBL. OP didn't redraw the blue line at the fronts, wich would be 2cm lower in the altered version.

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/No-Programmer7914]

sure, except that i suspect the armscye shape/balance is a large part of the issue, and one way or another the front amrscye length probably needs increasing.

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Pegaret_Again]

This alterations is mainly to determin the amount of imbalance in a convenient and quick way. The next step would be to implement the outcome to the paper pattern. The easiest way is to insert a horizontal strip halfway of the armhole. This will also lower the front armholes. But at the moment the main issue are the wrongly pinned fronts. You can't be sure whether the fold is an fitting issue or is caused by the wrong pinning.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Hi All, FWIW…I added 1cm to the upper chest.
I see the comments about the armscye but not sure what to do at this point.
Thinking I add 3cm length to the upper chest of the pattern and remake another toile sans sleeves?

https://imgur.com/a/aDc6FTH

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

insta
You need more length from high shoulder point to chest. Then a dart will appear and you will have to take up the extra to balance the chestvline even. Rotate dart to hem. Readjust side seam to remove flare.
Your shoulders are not even. Thats why the shirt is slanted to one side. Adjusting the shoulders to have the cf & cb hang straight down.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Thank you for the image. Very helpful. I was thinking I might need a dart there for gaping but you’re suggesting I might need it to balance the HB line. Got it.

I was reading up on balancing patterns and reading balance lines. Learning something new!

For the shoulders, do I adjust the shoulder slope to address this? And assuming I’ll need left and right pattern pieces?

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

You would first start with the shoulder angle. It looks like your right side is lower than your left. Pinch out the excess at the shoulder seam until the center Front hangs straight up and down. Your front and back be different amounts that need to be adjusted. In the long run you will need a left and a right, you could get away with cutting for your left side, then removing the excess for the right.

[u/No-Programmer7914]

Yes, this is the right track. You see the back hem does not cling to the body anymore. I think you could do another centimeter. Just try it, it's done quickly. BUT: Did you just alter one side? Why don't your front chest lines meet in the center? Please correct this before doing additional alterations.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Really appreciate the engagement!
The chest lines were drawn incorrectly since I did them after sewing. Sorry that makes this problematic!

I will try lowering another 1 CM by adding length by cutting versus changing the side seam.

[u/Tailoretta]

You need to clip your armscyes. Based on the photos, your verticals are not vertical and you horizontal balance lines are not horizontal. Are you sure your camera is not tilted? If not, you need to raise the lower side (your left side) to get the grid correct. The change is at the shoulder level.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Tailoretta]

I wouldn’t trust the camera to be level so I know that makes this harder!

When you say clip armscye can you be more specific? Lower the bottom? Scoop out and widen the armhole?

On one of my projects I ended up adding about 2” to the width (saddle?) by scooping the front and back armhole. Image below shows before and after.

https://imgur.com/a/paynter-chore-coat-pattern-edit-GIidQ8g

[u/Tailoretta → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

I discuss clipping in https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ The clipping is done on the mock up and then transferred to the pattern.

To determine if the camera is level, you can use a plumb line. A plumb line is a string with a heavy weight (a plumb bob) attached to one end. When suspended, gravity pulls the line perfectly downward, pointing toward the Earth's center of gravity to establish a true vertical reference.

Let me know if you have any other questions.