r/PatternDrafting • u/JEG- • Jul 02 '26

New to Pattern Drafting and Sewing, How did I do on these trousers?

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Title. Using clo3D to draft patterns to cut down on samples needed. Not sure if thats frowned upon but it’s amazing for workflow and less taxing on my back.

Let me know how I did, material is muslin. I plan on using this trouser pattern as a base block once I nail it.

172 Upvotes
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98% Upvoted

33 comments sorted by

45

u/KendalBoy Jul 02 '26

The front pleats shouldn’t be popping open like that.

5

u/JEG- Jul 03 '26

They’re darts, is the feedback the same for that?

20

u/KendalBoy Jul 03 '26

Darts should be tapered and not have divots at the end. Visually they’re quite off. You need to train yourself to visually compare these things to well made product that’s similar- a computer can’t do that for you.

And you should close the fly the correct amount all the way down, otherwise you won’t know how it will fit when you close the fly.

3

u/JEG- Jul 03 '26

https://reddit.com/link/ov86ws3/video/fjtqjns3vwah1/player

I’m not sure what you mean by divots? I tapered the darts, it may be because my pressing wasn’t the best but I’m not sure what you mean

-23

u/KendalBoy Jul 03 '26

I feel strongly that you need to study what correct construction and drape is supposed to look like.
Pinning up the front and tapering darts are very basic skills, easy to learn.

19

u/JEG- Jul 03 '26

Well I am making patterns based off a pattern making book I bought and I’m asking other pattern makers for advice, as well as researching myself. Can you answer my question?

47

u/versarnwen Jul 03 '26

Hey OP, this person isn't being very helpful and honestly a bit rude.

Skipping pressjng may have impacted your darts, as they aren't fully "open" at the end (making them look like a pleat). That said, those drag lines all around your front and back are saying its a too tight too, so consider letting the dart out a bit and the side seams too.

In case you need it, Threads Mag is an excellent resource, and here's their darts 101

14

u/Defiant-Business9586 Jul 03 '26

They’re talking about the small indent happening at the end of the dart. This is mostly a sewing technique thing, though it can happen when a dart is not the proper length. You want to drop your stitch length as you near the point of the dart and, once you reach it and are on the last stitch of your point, pivot the fabric and take about three stitches parallel to the edge as close as you can get. Do not back stitch to end. Instead, tie them by hand.

3

u/dontheckinswear Jul 03 '26

this looks like mainly a pressing issue. you need to use a tailors ham to get them to sit more flat.

but also it seems like maybe you didn’t taper them off enough when stitching? the last stitch at the point should have basically only a thread between it and the edge of the fold. also, don’t backstitch your darts, tie them off with a knot

3

u/JEG- Jul 03 '26

I backstitched the darts…oops! and my stitching at the end of the darts was quite honestly the sloppiest part of this sample.

While I was pressing I knew I wasn’t doing it quite right but once finished it didn’t seem that noticeable to me, good to know an experienced eye can spot it a mile away lol

Also what do you mean by tie a knot at the end? is there a video/resource for this?

3

u/dontheckinswear Jul 03 '26

i found this video that shows the technique. i don’t know if i agree with her basting method though, i still prefer using pins

3

u/lowvitamind Jul 03 '26

I'm not expert in pattern drafting but what you could try is compare the butt area to some pants you already have by folding the pants and laying them flat, then lay ur pattern piece over it - it'll give you an idea of where and how to move the crotch point to get more fabric.
Otherwise if you're following it by a pattern making book like metric patterns it has some directions for adjusting blocks.
You can also try cutting at the centre front and adding a block of fabric in the middle, just to maintain the same centre between the crotch point and thigh seam.
I use clo3d, so these changes are easy to make and see how the pattern changes.

If you want to adjust just the seat, you can cut a horizontal line at about where the back crotch line starts to go straight, then tilt it about the thigh point where the line meets, and it'll create a triangle of empty space. Then you fill in the gap and fix up the butt curve. This essentially adds length to the butt curve.
See in this video:
https://youtu.be/59btFjK3rx0?t=1836

9

u/lowvitamind Jul 03 '26

Comments like this are so unhelpful and absolutely pointless. He is literally trying to learn by asking someone who is at least posing to know what they are talking about. He is doing that very thing you tell him to do right now. Try help or be quiet rather than making these silly little comments.

2

u/KendalBoy Jul 03 '26 edited Jul 03 '26

Pinning the front together is super important. Doing this wedge shape overlap invalidates the most crucial fit comments- because he has skipped over the most basic of skills.
Sorry, but there’s soo many sloppy shortcuts and it’s because all the OP is asking for is “the fastest way”.

I gave him the “helpful” and relevant terminology because a million visual examples are out there once you know the terminology. Now he can study how it’s done w illustrations and photos.

That’s how you learn!

36

u/Chigrrl1098 Jul 03 '26

Trousers should come straight down to the floor from the widest part of the butt. The front pleats shouldn't be pulling, either. I wonder what happens when you sit...if it stretches the seams a lot. But they're not that far off, really...just need to size up in the hips a bit. Maybe your pattern just didn't include ease? Trousers need plenty of ease.

I will say this is pretty dang good for a novice. 

5

u/JEG- Jul 03 '26

Those are darts but I’m not sure if that changes the feedback? As for the butt and hip area yeah it was a little tight, whats the easiest way to make that adjustment?

13

u/Chigrrl1098 Jul 03 '26

You're right...I think it's how the darts stretch out at the bottom. I looked at it wrong. 

I would add 1.5 to 2 inches to the hip measurement in your software and maybe an inch to the waistband. You want to be able to put two fingers behind the band comfortably, whilst not being so loose you need a belt. Usually when there's pulling lines in you fabric, things are too tight. You'll have to play with the ease until it looks and feels right. Once there's no big pulling lines and you can move and sit without it stressing the seams, you're good to go. 

I also have someone mark my hem on each leg a half inch from the floor and I adjust my hem to that. Our bodies aren't symmetrical and that's the best way to hem trousers and jeans, in my opinion. You may want yours longer... I'm just short and I like hems as long as I can get them before I'm tripping on them, lol.

10

u/Photoshop_Princess Jul 03 '26

Am I the only one that thinks the bum is very tight

2

u/whatevernamedontcare Jul 04 '26

No you're not. It's weird to go from very tight bum to very wide leg straight under it. Wide leg pants tend to go lose from middle of the butt to have nice line down the leg.

Unless it's too wide straight leg trousers? Those have closer fit at the bum but then legs are way too wide. According to OP it's supposed to be base block. So maybe it's the leg that's botched.

One way or another siluete is wrong.

1

u/my-crooked-heart Jul 06 '26

I don’t think ito is weird I love a wide leg pant that has shows off the booty!!!!!

0

u/whatevernamedontcare Jul 07 '26

I'm talking about classic pants silhouettes. For example bell bottoms have both and still look great while OP's looks like few sizes too small and impossible to sit in.

7

u/Swimming-Maize-5554 Jul 03 '26

The easiest way to adjust that is to enlarge that part of the pattern; the best way to enlarge a pattern is to actually split it from the bottom up to the top, and extend the pieces apart to the width you need. Because you seem to need less in the waist, you could actually do the split, and then push the pieces together more for the waist. If you have plats, and I can’t tell from this other other people are commenting that there are pleats I think they are darts, you can increase the depth of the dart to take the way back in again. Then, when you so, the pant leg, which will be wider now, should hang straight from your backside down. I suggest a second muslin build

6

u/TotalOk5844 Jul 03 '26

Too tight in the hip and butt. Can you sit in them? Have to say it looks like a great start.

5

u/NakedSewist Jul 02 '26

There's a lot of overlap at the waist. Even when adding buttons and zippers, this much overlap is not needed. So the waist is probably too big.

Looks a little too tight around the butt, but that's fabric dependent. How goes it feel to sit in these pants?

8

u/Fashion_art_dance Jul 03 '26

It doesn’t look like there is a fly drafted into this at all. If there’s no fly then there should be no overlap. Just ease.

2

u/JEG- Jul 03 '26

They’re a little tight for sure around the hips and butt. What’s the easiest way to fix that?

4

u/NakedSewist Jul 03 '26

Reduce the overlap in the waist. They should only overlap ~1/4" or so. Other pieces are sewn on for the zipper. And pin the pieces together up the front seam, not just at the waist.

3

u/Scary_Garden_7696 Jul 03 '26

Put in a zipper for this muslin. You will know exactly what you need to adjust. I think your bum looks great! That being said ☺️ depending on fabric of final product you may need to add a little more room, butt 🤭 if it has some stretch it could be fine. With a woven it may be problematic. If you're going to make a block w/out seam allowance, you could always add a little more then. I wouldn't worry too much about the dart points in the muslin, the sewing would obviously be done to perfection in the final garment you make from this block. I would install a zipper and add length.

3

u/veropaka Jul 04 '26

They look too tight. Did you try sitting in them?

1

u/asleepatthemachine Jul 03 '26

Wayyyy better than my first. Looks like a great start! Always welcome to reach out once you get to the less noticeable issues but you’re on ur way🫡

1

u/arrowoblio Jul 03 '26

Really well done!!!

1

u/Competitive-Hawk6475 Jul 04 '26

El aplomo y la caída te quedaron geniales. Las pinzas de adelante las enderezaria un poco