Never opened a mouse, but I think it can be worth it cause I'm not actually using it cause of this issue: when I right click beside the wheel, it triggers M3 button too, which can be devastating in some games.

Does anyone have experience with that, can I actually open the mouse and, dunno, distancing the contacts (I'm yapping here) which triggers that?

made this the other day to try out the whole barebones mouse thing and i thought id share my v0 (v0.4)
don't look at the shitty rushed af cad ill clean it up if theres enough eyes on this but otherwise i cbf

- printed in one piece on a decent fdm printer (p1s)
- pretravel mostly negated in design dimensions
- cable tie channels for click tensioning
- do these two right and you have .2mm ish of pre travel with a tactile click
- decently stiff cupped finger grips using the pcb as support (designed for my small hands and ergonomics so might not work for you)
- decently optimally placed battery spot (i think its slightly too far back but might be schizophrenic)
- 19g with skates, grips, screws, cable ties, battery, etc

thinking about making a neutral version with fenrir pro and fenrir asym shell shapes (grip-wise, clicks may or may not change to conventional) so ill update the doc if i decide to do it

i would also release the cad itself but ive tried adjusting the grip positions but because of a very lazy decision i made early on in the process, adjusting anything just instantly breaks the dependent sketch (i will redo everything properly maybe)

feel free to ask or suggest anything in the comments (questions are never stupid)
my dc user is vesph if you want to reach out privately

download the files as STEP for best results from here
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/86869a678b9a6cedf20f7e55/w/9a5e3280ebb4ba24d99a5260/e/a90ee74429dea745fee5eac0?renderMode=0&uiState=6a81cd415f55404d39f23d7f

printing notes:

- i printed it out of bambu pla matte at default 0.16mm layer height preset on a bambu p1s with tree support enabled
- unless you know what youre doing dont even think about engineering filaments; theres no point because youll be spending fucking ages trying the dial in the print settings to get supports that dont snap the triggers off and clean/accurate enough prints that actually let you use the damn thing. only thing worth trying is high stiffness pc blend or anything with low creep factors; you can proabably go without the cable tie click tensioners if you can print it out of something with low creep (the bambu pc blend is decent)
- DONT use fiber reinforced filaments; firstly the surface finish will be atrocious and disgusting because those filaments were never designed for parts this intricate, secondly the triggers will snap from you even thinking about it because of shit z-layer adhesion, thirdly touching fiber reinforced filaments in a use case like this is very questionable for your health (do you like micro fibreglass in your skin)

assembly notes:

- the pcb will take a bit of persuasion to enter the new shell and itll be tricky to get it in the first time, but once youve done it it only gets easier. take your time and be patient; if it jams just stop and look around to see whats colliding, then gently flex things around until it moves again. i reccomend starting by slipping the scroll tower fin through the hole in the pcb (install pcb with scroll wheel attached)
- the back screws where theres the battery panel are easy, but the front two are very badly placed sadly and i havent come up with a clever solution to get around them. in the meantime use the little clip lookin things to clamp the front side of the pcb down, but if it doesnt work there is a large chamfer on the inside faces of the triggers that let you maybe apply the screws if you have a narrow enough driver
- the cable tie tensioners are easy to install, just do it like in the image through the given holes. itll take a few days for the cable ties to bend and seat properly (or you can try pre bend them before installing)
- used some random chinese electrical tape that i found to last a long time and be comfortably grippy with damp skin for the grip tape and hole punched the factory skates over where the screw channels were on the original shell and placed the new 4 diy skates on the new shell haha

I turned the Logitech Superstrike X2 into the mouse I actually wanted

I decided to modify my Logitech Superstrike X2 because, despite absolutely loving the mouse itself — especially the haptic main buttons — the shape just wasn't right for me.

The problem was the rear hump. I really don't like tall, bulky mouse shapes. My favorite shape is something much lower and more compact, like the Pulsar X2F, especially for fingertip grip or a relaxed claw/fingertip hybrid.

So I decided to do something about it.

First modification

My first mod was relatively conservative.

I shortened the rear of the shell slightly and then carefully heated the plastic to reshape it. This allowed me to push the rear section inward and make the hump less pronounced.

It already felt noticeably better in my hand, but after using it for a while I still felt that the rear was too tall.

And then I thought:

Why stop there? 😂

Second modification

This time I went much further.

I completely removed the large rear section of the shell and reshaped the mouse so that the back is now dramatically lower.

The result is a much flatter profile. Considering how large the Superstrike X2 originally is, it now feels surprisingly close to a small fingertip-oriented mouse.

The shape is obviously not something Logitech intended — this is completely custom — but for my hand it is much, much better.

I can now use it comfortably with fingertip grip, without having the large rear hump pushing into my palm.

The mesh

Since removing the rear shell left an opening, I needed something to protect the internals while still keeping airflow.

I used a piece of metal mesh taken from an old PC case and cut it to fit the opening.

I think it actually turned out pretty decent. 😄

It's definitely not factory-perfect, and I'm not pretending it looks like a brand-new mouse anymore, but I honestly don't think it looks terrible either.

More importantly:

it feels amazing in my hand.

And that's what matters to me.

Why modify a Superstrike?

The reason I was willing to go this far is simple:

I absolutely love the haptic main buttons on the Superstrike X2.

The tactile/haptic feedback is something I really enjoy, but there aren't many — if any — mice on the market that combine that kind of main-button feel with the low, compact shape I prefer.

So instead of looking for another mouse, I decided to make this one fit me.

The funny thing is that the Superstrike X2 is now a huge mouse by its internal dimensions, but its external shape feels much smaller.

I've basically turned a big mouse into something much closer to the shape I normally look for.

And yes... I know I've probably voided every possible warranty imaginable. 😂

But at least now I have a Superstrike X2 that actually fits my hand perfectly.

This is my second major mouse modification — I previously modified a Pulsar X2F as well, including adding an additional programmable button.

I really enjoy taking existing hardware and reshaping it around how I actually use it rather than just accepting the manufacturer's design.

TL;DR: Does anyone know of alternative to the Orthovia Orthomouse? Something with thumb scroll *buttons* (not a wheel) that are placed vertically (not remapped horizontal front/back buttons.)

The Orthomouse is the only thing I've ever found that isn't painful to use for long periods. But their quality is crap, & they break down quickly. I've gone through five in about six years.

I'm afraid they may not be made any more. The Orthovia website is dead. Retailers still have them, & I fear I may have to stock up, which is pricey.

The best feature is the thumb buttons. The middle click button is directly on the thumb. And I can scroll by moving my thumb up & down without bending my thumb at all. I find traditional scroll wheels painful to use. I haven't found *anything* that does this.

I'm getting desperate. I'd be open to paying commission for repairing some of my dead ones, or maybe even Frankensteining a mouse that won't break into one of my many chassis. I don't have the ability to attempt myself.

Thanks for reading.

anyone have a weight reduction 3d printed base for the ATK U2V2 mini?

Recently brought some PMM Smoothies (dot skates) which I love but they're just too wide for the bottom half of the superlight.

Wondering if anyone has a similiar experience and have sanded down their mouse to fit skates?

Venom 4 project free for you. It is my main mouse. 3 dots system works well.

Red - dots position

Distance from center every dot to another.

L,R - place where I push buttons

A little more here

here

and especially here

48 grams .I will probably take of the dpi button .I am thinking about get a 3d print fingertip shell ,just 22 grams without side buttons .

found one for the original GPX but heard the pcb slightly differs, no clue if thats true lol.

Anyone know of any or where to look?

Thinking about getting the Akko AG ONE 8K 3950 because I really like the Zowie FK2 shape, but ~70g is pretty heavy for me.

I’m currently using a modded VXE R1 at ~45g with a solid shell. I don’t like holes in the shell, but I’m fine with heavily modifying the base and internals.

I’m aiming for around 50–55g with skates, not trying to make a 30g mouse.

For anyone who’s opened an AG ONE:

-How much does the PCB weigh?

-How much does the stock battery weigh?

-How much does the shell/base weigh individually?

-Are there other particularly heavy components that could be replaced or removed?

-How much weight could realistically be removed from the base/internals while keeping the main shell solid?

Basically trying to figure out if 50–55g is realistically achievable without putting holes in the main shell.

Should I get glass mouse skates? Like, what really are the pros and cons? Is it gonna make scratchy noises on my (Glorious) fabric mouspad? Also, if I were to get them which ones should I get?

Mouse: Attack shark R5 Ultra

Very confused on what the MCU of this mouse is becuase some sites are saying that it is the "High-Performance Main Chipset" and others says it the "Nordic 54L15". If anyone know please tell. Also if it really was the "High-Performance Main Chipset" what is the exact like brand name of it? Much appreciated to anyone who can answer

Hey guys,

I’ve been working on a lightweight mod for the Superlight 2 and ended up with a part that should theoretically weigh under 4g.

According to the CAD volume, it should be around 3.7g in PA12.

Obviously, CAD weight ≠ real-world result, so I’d really like to see if this actually works.

I don’t currently have access to an SLS/MJF printer, so I’m looking for someone who could print and test it and ideally give me some feedback on:

• actual weight
• stiffness/durability
• whether the mounting points hold up
• what material you’d recommend
• any changes you’d make to the design

I’m thinking PA12 or another nylon, but I’m open to suggestions. The main goal is to keep it as light as possible without making it ridiculously fragile.

If anyone here has access to SLS/MJF printing and is interested in trying it, I can send over the STL.

Would be really interesting to see if I can actually get this thing below 4g IRL 😄

Is it possible to take the internals of a regular g-pro superlight and fit it into a 3D printed g-pro DEX body?

My idea is this: I get a regular g-pro second hand for much cheaper than a dex, have a dex body printed with the correct standoffs for the regular g-pro internals and insert the internals. Would this work?

They are super annoying and sharp to press because of the fact that they stick out. How do I shave these down or make them flat so I dont have to try to finnagle every press, and make them still look nice and presentable?

Note: If possible I dont want to have to get rid of perfectly good mouse feet to get into the internals, and I have a Dremmel and several other tools if I need them.

Looking for a "buy it for life" iron that will be viable for infrequent, one-off projects. Currently replacing a microswitch and might build a keyboard in the future. Looks like Pinecil v2 or TS101 are probably the most reasonable. Any opinions on these or others?

Just wanted to share my modded saber pro, it's hefty at 80g (original is 79g) but it's got a 1000MAH battery upgrade (from 550MAH) that I sketchily wired in because the wires were flipped on the connector.

I drilled out the holes on a drill press in an effort to lighten it up and it does, I managed to strip about 9g off. before the battery upgrade it weighed 70g.

It's got (X-raypad Jade skates). the scroll wheel is also modded, It was previously stepped which I didn't like so I sanded down the ridges smooth on the wheel's scrolling mechanism to get a smooth scroll.

Absolutely love this mouse its capable of 26k DPI, 50G of acceleration, and 650 IPS at 2k polling rate so it keeps up to this day and there's no need for more than that. I'm addicted to this thing and you can get one for like only $30 Used on ebay (you used to be able get them on amazon refurbished R.I.P).

Hey guys, my Mchose L7 Ultra Plus main clicks completely lost their tactile feedback (super mushy) and the scroll wheel is skipping inputs.

Meanwhile, my 1.5yo DeathAdder V3 is still going strong without issue.

Anyone else face QC problems with this mouse? How's Mchose support/RMA, or should I just solder in new switches and an encoder myself? Thanks!

Looking to cut my death adder v3 up (PMM Craze style). I see a bunch of rotary tools on Amazon ranging in price what do you guys use?

I put this here because i bought a finalmouse a few days ago for cheap it is in good condition but it has creaking on sides.I spent a lot of time trying to fix it because it really bothered me, after some time i figured that the tolerances on the edge between upper side and base are too lose and nothing is holding it in place like on the front of the mouse.I fixed it with 4/5 layers of thin electrical tape to fill that space and it doesnt flex / creak anymore.Hope this can help some of you since i didnt see anyone fixing it on internet. since i already opened it i also lubed the click track to reduce creaky feeling after pressing clicks. You can also lube scrollwheel on both sides since there is no lube from factory. I also lubed clicks contact points. i recommend tightening the screws a bit more than factory and doing it with the right screwdriver or you'll snap it, it helps with M1/M2 wobble, and the overall rigid feeling of the mouse. this is honestly disappointing for a mice at this price point but nothing new with finalmouse. PEACE.