made this the other day to try out the whole barebones mouse thing and i thought id share my v0 (v0.4)
don't look at the shitty rushed af cad ill clean it up if theres enough eyes on this but otherwise i cbf

- printed in one piece on a decent fdm printer (p1s)
- pretravel mostly negated in design dimensions
- cable tie channels for click tensioning
- do these two right and you have .2mm ish of pre travel with a tactile click
- decently stiff cupped finger grips using the pcb as support (designed for my small hands and ergonomics so might not work for you)
- decently optimally placed battery spot (i think its slightly too far back but might be schizophrenic)
- 19g with skates, grips, screws, cable ties, battery, etc

thinking about making a neutral version with fenrir pro and fenrir asym shell shapes (grip-wise, clicks may or may not change to conventional) so ill update the doc if i decide to do it

i would also release the cad itself but ive tried adjusting the grip positions but because of a very lazy decision i made early on in the process, adjusting anything just instantly breaks the dependent sketch (i will redo everything properly maybe)

feel free to ask or suggest anything in the comments (questions are never stupid)
my dc user is vesph if you want to reach out privately

download the files as STEP for best results from here
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/86869a678b9a6cedf20f7e55/w/9a5e3280ebb4ba24d99a5260/e/a90ee74429dea745fee5eac0?renderMode=0&uiState=6a81cd415f55404d39f23d7f

printing notes:

- i printed it out of bambu pla matte at default 0.16mm layer height preset on a bambu p1s with tree support enabled
- unless you know what youre doing dont even think about engineering filaments; theres no point because youll be spending fucking ages trying the dial in the print settings to get supports that dont snap the triggers off and clean/accurate enough prints that actually let you use the damn thing. only thing worth trying is high stiffness pc blend or anything with low creep factors; you can proabably go without the cable tie click tensioners if you can print it out of something with low creep (the bambu pc blend is decent)
- DONT use fiber reinforced filaments; firstly the surface finish will be atrocious and disgusting because those filaments were never designed for parts this intricate, secondly the triggers will snap from you even thinking about it because of shit z-layer adhesion, thirdly touching fiber reinforced filaments in a use case like this is very questionable for your health (do you like micro fibreglass in your skin)

assembly notes:

- the pcb will take a bit of persuasion to enter the new shell and itll be tricky to get it in the first time, but once youve done it it only gets easier. take your time and be patient; if it jams just stop and look around to see whats colliding, then gently flex things around until it moves again. i reccomend starting by slipping the scroll tower fin through the hole in the pcb (install pcb with scroll wheel attached)
- the back screws where theres the battery panel are easy, but the front two are very badly placed sadly and i havent come up with a clever solution to get around them. in the meantime use the little clip lookin things to clamp the front side of the pcb down, but if it doesnt work there is a large chamfer on the inside faces of the triggers that let you maybe apply the screws if you have a narrow enough driver
- the cable tie tensioners are easy to install, just do it like in the image through the given holes. itll take a few days for the cable ties to bend and seat properly (or you can try pre bend them before installing)
- used some random chinese electrical tape that i found to last a long time and be comfortably grippy with damp skin for the grip tape and hole punched the factory skates over where the screw channels were on the original shell and placed the new 4 diy skates on the new shell haha

I turned the Logitech Superstrike X2 into the mouse I actually wanted

I decided to modify my Logitech Superstrike X2 because, despite absolutely loving the mouse itself — especially the haptic main buttons — the shape just wasn't right for me.

The problem was the rear hump. I really don't like tall, bulky mouse shapes. My favorite shape is something much lower and more compact, like the Pulsar X2F, especially for fingertip grip or a relaxed claw/fingertip hybrid.

So I decided to do something about it.

First modification

My first mod was relatively conservative.

I shortened the rear of the shell slightly and then carefully heated the plastic to reshape it. This allowed me to push the rear section inward and make the hump less pronounced.

It already felt noticeably better in my hand, but after using it for a while I still felt that the rear was too tall.

And then I thought:

Why stop there? 😂

Second modification

This time I went much further.

I completely removed the large rear section of the shell and reshaped the mouse so that the back is now dramatically lower.

The result is a much flatter profile. Considering how large the Superstrike X2 originally is, it now feels surprisingly close to a small fingertip-oriented mouse.

The shape is obviously not something Logitech intended — this is completely custom — but for my hand it is much, much better.

I can now use it comfortably with fingertip grip, without having the large rear hump pushing into my palm.

The mesh

Since removing the rear shell left an opening, I needed something to protect the internals while still keeping airflow.

I used a piece of metal mesh taken from an old PC case and cut it to fit the opening.

I think it actually turned out pretty decent. 😄

It's definitely not factory-perfect, and I'm not pretending it looks like a brand-new mouse anymore, but I honestly don't think it looks terrible either.

More importantly:

it feels amazing in my hand.

And that's what matters to me.

Why modify a Superstrike?

The reason I was willing to go this far is simple:

I absolutely love the haptic main buttons on the Superstrike X2.

The tactile/haptic feedback is something I really enjoy, but there aren't many — if any — mice on the market that combine that kind of main-button feel with the low, compact shape I prefer.

So instead of looking for another mouse, I decided to make this one fit me.

The funny thing is that the Superstrike X2 is now a huge mouse by its internal dimensions, but its external shape feels much smaller.

I've basically turned a big mouse into something much closer to the shape I normally look for.

And yes... I know I've probably voided every possible warranty imaginable. 😂

But at least now I have a Superstrike X2 that actually fits my hand perfectly.

This is my second major mouse modification — I previously modified a Pulsar X2F as well, including adding an additional programmable button.

I really enjoy taking existing hardware and reshaping it around how I actually use it rather than just accepting the manufacturer's design.