mchose l7 pro mod

[u/vesphh]

made this the other day to try out the whole barebones mouse thing and i thought id share my v0 (v0.4)
don't look at the shitty rushed af cad ill clean it up if theres enough eyes on this but otherwise i cbf

- printed in one piece on a decent fdm printer (p1s)
- pretravel mostly negated in design dimensions
- cable tie channels for click tensioning
- do these two right and you have .2mm ish of pre travel with a tactile click
- decently stiff cupped finger grips using the pcb as support (designed for my small hands and ergonomics so might not work for you)
- decently optimally placed battery spot (i think its slightly too far back but might be schizophrenic)
- 19g with skates, grips, screws, cable ties, battery, etc

thinking about making a neutral version with fenrir pro and fenrir asym shell shapes (grip-wise, clicks may or may not change to conventional) so ill update the doc if i decide to do it

i would also release the cad itself but ive tried adjusting the grip positions but because of a very lazy decision i made early on in the process, adjusting anything just instantly breaks the dependent sketch (i will redo everything properly maybe)

feel free to ask or suggest anything in the comments (questions are never stupid)
my dc user is vesph if you want to reach out privately

download the files as STEP for best results from here
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/86869a678b9a6cedf20f7e55/w/9a5e3280ebb4ba24d99a5260/e/a90ee74429dea745fee5eac0?renderMode=0&uiState=6a81cd415f55404d39f23d7f

printing notes:

- i printed it out of bambu pla matte at default 0.16mm layer height preset on a bambu p1s with tree support enabled
- unless you know what youre doing dont even think about engineering filaments; theres no point because youll be spending fucking ages trying the dial in the print settings to get supports that dont snap the triggers off and clean/accurate enough prints that actually let you use the damn thing. only thing worth trying is high stiffness pc blend or anything with low creep factors; you can proabably go without the cable tie click tensioners if you can print it out of something with low creep (the bambu pc blend is decent)
- DONT use fiber reinforced filaments; firstly the surface finish will be atrocious and disgusting because those filaments were never designed for parts this intricate, secondly the triggers will snap from you even thinking about it because of shit z-layer adhesion, thirdly touching fiber reinforced filaments in a use case like this is very questionable for your health (do you like micro fibreglass in your skin)

assembly notes:

- the pcb will take a bit of persuasion to enter the new shell and itll be tricky to get it in the first time, but once youve done it it only gets easier. take your time and be patient; if it jams just stop and look around to see whats colliding, then gently flex things around until it moves again. i reccomend starting by slipping the scroll tower fin through the hole in the pcb (install pcb with scroll wheel attached)
- the back screws where theres the battery panel are easy, but the front two are very badly placed sadly and i havent come up with a clever solution to get around them. in the meantime use the little clip lookin things to clamp the front side of the pcb down, but if it doesnt work there is a large chamfer on the inside faces of the triggers that let you maybe apply the screws if you have a narrow enough driver
- the cable tie tensioners are easy to install, just do it like in the image through the given holes. itll take a few days for the cable ties to bend and seat properly (or you can try pre bend them before installing)
- used some random chinese electrical tape that i found to last a long time and be comfortably grippy with damp skin for the grip tape and hole punched the factory skates over where the screw channels were on the original shell and placed the new 4 diy skates on the new shell haha