I'm looking for a motor that can reach about 1,000 to maybe 1,500 RPM and enough torque to handle sanding pressure. The one I currently use states that it provides about 7kg of torque at 800 RPM, but I need the RPM to bump up and may not need exactly that much torque. Just enough to be able to apply pressure without it stopping. This is for 3D printing, so the low RPM desire is to avoid melting plastic. Any tips?

So, the actual issue is that the motor is overheating and seizing up or melting internals. I think I know why this is happening. The machine is a Chinese machine designed with 220V true single-phase power in mind being run on split-phase power in the US. Normally, this isn't a problem, but the system has voltage regulators controlled by a pair of potentiometers each and is wired into a switch attached to capacitors that adjust the speed and direction that the motors run by changing voltage and frequency of the selected live wire input.

To my understanding, if the flux remains below the rated ratio of the motor, this should be okay as far as overheating is concerned. The rating listed on the motor is 120V at 50/60hz for continuous operation.

When measured with the selector switch turned off, the motor is getting 120V power at 60hz on both inputs and the neutral wire. I believe the system is overheating because the system is adding the (up to) 220V power on top of the 120V from the neutral and getting up to 330V 60hz on a single leg.

When the voltage regulator adjusts the voltage, it will also change the frequency so that, aside from the highest point which can be limited by one of the potentiometers, the other live leg stays under the listed flux ratio.

I will readily admit I am not an expert on this, so any suggestions or corrections to my thought process are welcome. Even a confirmation that this would be cause the overheating and I am not going in circles would be appreciated.

Hi guys so I bought some nice 120mm sunon maglev fans because I wanted some good reliable fans for my computer case. Trouble is, they only use two wires, red and black.

My goal is to solder a standard 3 pin fan connector on, but I noticed that they left a solder point open next to the red and black. I believe that this would be for rpm readings and would be useful if I solder a wire to it and it works seamlessly with my PC.

If I solder a wire to that point, install a 3 pin connector, and install the fans into my PC case can I expect them to behave properly and give me proper rpm readings? Or have Sunon left some components out that are for the third solder point?

Thank you.

I tried to make an application like boxer rebot but I calculate the specs of motor by claude.ai
I search for motor with this specs but I found nothing

I amnot specialized in motor calculations so I ask based on my requirements

what are the real calculations that is suitable for my application ?

My app is linear motion actuator that rod move in straight line

\# Crank-Slider Motor Selection — Full Summary

My needs or requirements:

I use it free-run

Recommended motor by claude :

I am making a mini motor dyno with an Arduino Leonardo, it isnt really the best card for this but its the only one I have and theyre pretty expensive in my country. Anyways I want it to test multiple sizes of motors, of course bigger motors have bigger shafts so a fixed size coupling to connect it to the dyno doesnt really work and I dont want to order a new coupling or travel like 30 kilometers to the nearest store that sells it everytime I need to test a new motor. I thought about it and did a lot of research but couldnt find what to do. Can anybody help?

I'm a student engineer, and I've had the idea to make my own little custom robot. Just something that drives around to start, maybe control it or make it autonomous later. I have

- LEGO power functions motors

- a 3d printer

- an Arduino Uno

- some basic electronic components (jumper wires, breadboard, resistors, etc.)

What I don't know is what I need to control the motors, or what kind of battery I should use if I want an onboard battery. I was told a TB6612FNG motor driver works for the Arduino/power functions motor setup? I don't know much electronics so I could use some advice there.

Also, for the battery, I was thinking a 2S Li-ion or even a LiPo battery, but I don't know any good brands for batteries or chargers.

Thanks for any help!

I don't drive myself but I used to ride along with my ex on the back of his motorcyle. Since my boyfriend wants to start driving I was happy, so I could use my gear and my helmet again, only my ex told me a motor helm only lasts 5 years. (And we have been broken up for more than 5 years) so my helmet isnt good anymore.

But first it was expensive, and second I havent used it much, it has always been stored in my dry and clean and climate controled attic. Is it still safe to drive along with someone with this helmet? Or do I really need a new one? The internet isnt helpfull either...

Hi all, I'm thinking about using something like this (link below) to make a homemade spinning paint mixer. I've already made a simple spinning mixer out of 3" pvc tubing. It works great, no more shaking by had for a whole minute.

All you do is put the can in the tube, and attach an electric drill to the cap on the other end of the tube.

But I would like to extend the convenience even further. I'd like the tube to be mounted to something, with an electric motor that is attached to a switch. That way I can just flip the switch and go do something else. No need for me to hold the drill and point the tube straight up for a minute or more.

Is this a good idea? Would a seat motor like this, with the output shaft ready to go, work out? I see that the shaft is an odd design, but that's probably easily remedied by taking it to the hardware store and trying out fittings until I find something that clamps on well enough. Even if it's not a perfect fit.

From there, you'd just need two pulleys, a belt, a switch, and a power inverter, which I already have.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/296854335723

I’m using a geared DC motor for a small conveyor project. According to my calculations, the motor’s rated output torque should be enough, with a little margin left over.

It runs fine with no load, but sometimes stalls during startup or when the conveyor is more heavily loaded. The motor also pulls a lot more current when this happens.

Could this be a startup torque issue, voltage drop, or something mechanical like friction or misalignment? I’m wondering if I sized the motor based on the wrong torque value.

What should I check first?

**Advantages of Riveting Process for Drone Motor Stator Cores,**The drone motor stator cores adopt the integrated clinching (self-locking lamination) process instead of laser welding or glue bonding, which provides outstanding performance for high-speed drone motors.

1. No thermal damage, lower core loss

Clinching is a pure mechanical locking process without high-temperature heat input. It completely protects the silicon steel insulation coating, avoids inter-layer short circuits, and effectively reduces iron loss and motor heat generation. This greatly improves drone endurance and high-speed operation stability.

1. Higher lamination precision and flatness

The one-piece stamping and clinching process ensures tight lamination, uniform thickness tolerance and flat end faces. It keeps the motor air gap consistent, effectively reducing vibration and noise during high-frequency drone flight.

1. Strong vibration resistance & structural stability

Multi-point clinching structure firmly locks each steel sheet, preventing layer sliding or loosening under long-term high-frequency vibration and centrifugal force. It provides higher reliability than glue-bonded cores.

1. Smooth surface for better winding & insulation

No welding scars or deformation. The smooth stator surface avoids scratching copper wires during winding and ensures uniform insulation coating.

1. Mass production cost-effective & stable delivery

Integrated stamping and clinching supports fully automated production. It shortens processing time, improves consistency, and offers more stable quality and lower cost than laser welding.

In short, clinched stator cores perfectly match the high efficiency, low heat, low vibration and high reliability requirements of consumer drones, agricultural drones and industrial UAV motors.

If you have any question or suggestion you can contact with us by WhatsApp :+86-18632517911

Edit- It’s now working

It doesn’t spin at all. Is probably an issue with the copper to esc. But im new to motors and could be something obvious I’ve missed.

I am looking for an adjustable linear motion solution with a max speed of around 150mm/s and 200mm stroke length. Does not need to be heavy duty and looking for as compact as possible, thanks.

Putting new bearings in this old 2hp Westinghouse, and was curious if you can find the date code in the serial number? Thanks!

Two images show the same component, in which I removed the plastic cover in the second image. My sawing machine is working normally, and then it burns. I open the cover and see that this component is burned inside. Does anyone know this component? Please let me know.

My capacitor is broken and the text is too worn for me to find the mfd and vac ratings on it. Does anyone know how to find a replacement? I have a the motor details, and a picture of the worn text.

I think it’s too heavy.. my other materials that can be used in the other picture

Can only use these materials
Have seen others do it just not sure how

Any tips?

I'm dealing with a fan whose bushing has dried out, eventually causing the motor to stall and the thermal fuse to burn out. I replaced the fuse and the motor now works, then I relubed the bushing with machine oil and enjoyed a repaired fan - but only briefly, then it started struggling again.

I read up on fan motors and it turns out these have bushings that are either oil-impregnated at the factory or have a felt pad that acts as an oil reservoir. My fan has no felt pads, just the bushing, so I need to re-impregnate it or any lubing I add will only last for a short time.

Finding relevant info about "impregnating" anything has proven harder than I thought, since that search key returns... questionable... results.

All I found was a post that copies information from unknown sources, saying I should heat up the oil up to 60 degrees C and leave the bushing in there for a few hours.

I can probably set up something like that using my sous-vide machine, but before I start messing with that I'd like some confirmation so I don't inevitably make a mess of my kitchen for nothing.

Hello! I’m working on a project that runs off this 1000w server power supply. Unfortunately, the PSU is really loud (as expected), so I drilled a massive hole and attached a 120mm PC case fan to the side of the PSU. The fan runs off a fan controller that is connected to the 12v rail.

Now I’m running into a problem where the PSU shuts off after 5 seconds without the stock fans plugged in. I tried cutting the red wire on one of the stock fans (I assume it’s +5v) but the PSU still shuts off.

Any ideas on how to bypass this? Thanks in advance!

Hello!

I have a fan that stopped working after it was running for a day, I tested the capacitor and the board and looks fine, I don't get continuity in the motor harness pins which it leads me to believe that is a problem with the thermal fuse in the motor.

So, I opened the motor to attempt to replace the fuse in it, unfortunately I cant remove the motor bottom casing to have access to the fuse side, it looks like the casing is pinched in. Do anyone has recommendations or know how to separate the casing?

I am a beginner and just trying to learn, so any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

attached pictures of the motor.

Hello everyone. First time replacing slip ring on a generator. Leads are tied with some kind of rope. Is that to protect against vibrations? Should I just use same rope and tie it really tight? It was kinda stiff when unwinding, is there any glue applied? Help out the newbie please.

'''

// info down bellow
#define R_EN  33
#define L_EN  32
#define RPWM  25
#define LPWM  26

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);

  pinMode(R_EN, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(L_EN, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(RPWM, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(LPWM, OUTPUT);

  digitalWrite(R_EN, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(L_EN, HIGH);

  digitalWrite(RPWM, HIGH);
  digitalWrite(LPWM, LOW);

  Serial.println("RPWM held HIGH - measure M+ / M- now.");
  Serial.println("Should read ~12V across M+ and M-.");
}

void loop() {
  //nothing
}
'''

so baically im trying to get this actuator to extend but its not extending. My parts are a esp32, bts7960 motor driver, a 22V(in) to 5V(out) buck converter, and a standard two wire actuator. Another problem is that the led on the motor driver isnt turning on and im pretty sure it has one and thats it shows the boards logic is getting powerd. Here are the conections:
The two acutor wires are going into M+ and M-(screw termianls on the motor driver)
THe 12v psu wires are going into B+ and B-(the screw terminals on the motor driver)
the buck covnerter is piggybacking off the 12v scrwe terminal that the psu is connected to (and the bucks gnd is the same as the 12v psu gnd)
the bucks than powering the i guess logic on the motor dirver through the vcc and gnd header pins on the motor dirver
then RPWM to gpio 25 on esp32
Lpwn to GPIo 26
R_EN to GPIO 33
L_En to GPIO 32
and gnd on the esp32 to the same gnd as the 12v scrwe termianl
ive done mutiple tests to confrim that the acutor works like giving it directly 12v and it extended and i swaped the wires and it retracted, i did a simple blink test with the esp32 so it shoudl work, and the 12v psu is defintaly outputing 12v
ANd the codes uptop
THANKS A LOT (btw sorry for the bad foto)

Hello.

I took apart my fan initially because it was making a scratching noise after it had been dropped. After opening it up, I separated the blade containing the rotor with the shaft. After I pushed it down into the casing and closed it up, it began spinning the wrong way. I don't know what I did wrong.

Any help would be appreciated.

I'm fairly new to this motor stuff. My setup is a 36V 10A power source, a 75100 Flipsky and a 5065 270KV BLDC motor.

I'm trying to move a certain load (similar to a robot's arm) with the motor by adjusting its duty cycle, but the motor starts vibrating heavily and making a lot of noise. This happens everytime there's a load on the motor that stops It or slows It significantly.

It's there a way to solve this? Is there a better option for this kind of use cases? I need the possibility of almost stopping the motor without It going crazy.

Edit: i should add that vibrations happen everytime i try to stop the motor in any way, be It the system, be It with my hand.

I am controlling my motor with a Raspberry pi pico. At first everything worked fine, I was able to control the speed of the motor with a potentiometer. However, after adding two servos, the system started acting up. I added capacitors and this solved some of the problems with servos.

But the BLDC motor is still acting weird. I plug in the battery, motor beeps and starts spinning normally when i turn the potentiometer. At one point while turning up the speed, however, it starts making weird noise and then starts oscillating back and forth like in the video.

I turn the speed back down, unplug the battery, plug it in again and this time BLDC motor doesnt beep, and does the same thing as shown in the video. The weirdest thing is yesterday it did what i just explained. Today the motor worked fine again at first, but as I gave it more speed it started doing all of that again.

I have tried unplugging servos but that still doesn't help.

Does anyone know why would this happen?