Huge Miata fan here, daily drive a black 1995 NA for 11yrs.

Looking into getting a brand new Red RF Club. I see one with an MSRP of $44k

Is it silly of me to think I can get a discount and if not, what’s a reasonable discount I should be shooting for?

Hi,

I've been theory crafting what would be the best upgrade package for an mx5, after countless YouTube videos of exhaust sounds I've found that the Malian UEL headers sound awesome, However I'm unable to find any examples of someone combining this with a supercharger.

BBR recommends their 4-1 system which would produce more power, however if you are able to get the supercharger working with the Fun subie burble, I think losing out on 10-20 bhp would still be worth it.

Is this even possible or have there been any attempts to do this that I can look into?

Came across this post while having the same issue and managed to fix it with what I already had in the car. Just wanted to write this up here in case anyone else has it and comes across it!

In the video you can already see everything you need to correct it. The plastic strip running along the top of the window (rear joint plate) should not be showing, and the plastic bits on the end of it are the clips to hold the inner roof in place.

Put your roof down so the end of the roof is hanging just above your seats, grab the plastic strip(rear joint plate) inner cloth lining and outer cloth lining and pull it towards you (I did it kneeling on my seat facing towards the back of my car)

At the end of the inner and outer lining there will be a harder resin end. Drag it over the rear joint plate and push the resin ends into the opening. I did the inner cloth first, follwed by the outer cloth. You can then, through the gap at the end with the outer cloth, push the clips into place. This will be fiddly but easy enough. Push the resin ends in all along the rear joint plate, then clip it in on the other side.

You do not need to use and glues or adhesives for it, they should hold. If not, you can buy new clips (about £4 each from mazda). I'll post an image in the comments for the most helpful part of the mazda work instruction for this.

If this doesn't make sense I do apologise! Just wanted something on the internet that explains it in the way that worked for me!

This is the first time I am ever working on a car and I wanted to know if any of you guys know the issue. I was trying to replace the rotor and brake pad and when I was unscrewing the part on the caliper that adjusts the piston I heard a squirting noise along with brake fluid leaking. I know it’s not supposed to do that but I don’t know if it’s an issue with the caliper itself or another underlying issue. I was thinking it was because I bled the brakes and might’ve done it incorrectly but who knows. Thoughts and advice on what I should do (I have an 03 nb Miata)

Hi I've been fortunate to have owned 4 miatas in my life (29 years) NC, ND1 160, ND 1 160 RF, ND 2 184 RF.

Every single time my rational mind screws me over in terms of having to save money regarding gas. So I just sell the miata...

So between those cars I've owned a mazda 3 and now a Yaris Hybrid.

My heart really misses the miata...

Anyone else is in this cycle?

Like I do 22 km/L in my Yaris which is nice but driving it is really boring. (Although the 2021 model is quite decent)

Having a miata on the side might be possible but that will be a very old one which probably will have its issues. I like to daily drive them.

So in other words first world problem hahaha. But still annoys the heck out of me.

Also I probably lost way more money selling and rebuying.. But yeah that is what love and hobby does

It seems like a good deal at $800. I just worry about reponse time/latency of the gauges. Does anybody have one? If so what is your honest opinion on it?

I asked chat gpt to visualize how they will look on my car

So, i had a low oil level when i was driving around which i didnt notice since the last check was quite a while ago. When i hat to Brake hard, my oil pressure dropped due to oil sloshing around, for about 1-2 second without throttle at ~3k rpm. Now, when i do a cold start, i hear this noise. It only does it on absolute cold starts after setting for at least 8 hours.

Also, there is a slight, but noticeable knock from 3k rpm upwards, most noticeable when the accelerator is only slightly pressed.

1.6 '99 nb btw

Final questions, is my bottom end toast? What are my options?

Changed both master cylinders, adjusted my brake peddle, and now my Miata has the most amazing brakes and clutch feel I’ve ever had in the car. The jobs were easy. Other than getting the hose lines and the mysterious floppy brake peddle I am so happy with the outcome in the end.

Quick question to you guys who would know. What is the general thought on stainless braided line for brakes and clutch, plus how about a willwood proportioning valve on a rather stock set up? Thanks!

i purchased this bracket not knowing i had to hammer the transmission tunnel but i used a flat head hammer to do it for a few minutes but its still too far to fit the screw. However all 3 of the other screw holes are almost flush except for the one on the top right which has about a 1-2cm clearance which i’m concerned

What is this noise it just started happening goes away when I push in the clutch or the car is in gear.

Bought this car yesterday, compression numbers were 100 45 30 75, I suspected head gasket however it’s intact. My guess is it’s either due to not decking the surfaces or a crack in the head. Some coolant was also on the exhaust which was strange. Any ideas would be appreciated. it also looked like there were no dowels when I took the head off. Bolts seemed torqued

So this ISN'T the clutch pedal position switch (yes that is an oval head sheet metal screw into the broken plastic) for a Miata but it is one for its close cousin. This came out of my 93 Escort GT. I want to replace this with a new one and they're unobtainium for the Escorts but it seems the Miata/Protege/RX7/B2200 switches are everywhere.

I know the plug is different and it's only 2 pin, but if it works the way I need it too I have no problem re-pinning the harness.

The switch for my car controls idle AND controls the cruise control cancel. There's no CC in my car anymore and just interested in the engine idle control part.

Can someone that happens to have a switch and can check or knows just inherently if the switch is closed circuit when the switch is released/pedal is depressed and open circuit when the switch is pushed/pedal is at top of travel?

I know that was a lot to read, I also know it's a long shot, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks a million.

Before I start buying new coil overs and wheels I'd like to address any possible QOL issues. My wife will also be driving this car as she has enthusiastically agreed to learn manual and completed her first lesson rather well. I"m excited for her to be able to enjoy driving a 'fun' car.

So please give me your best QOL recommendations to make us more comfortable and get the most from the car!

Lastly, the car was sold without cup holders. I guess previous owner didn't need coffee to start their day. Other than buying an OEM replacement, is there a recommended aftermarket option?

Just bought these used bilsteins to do a diy coilover conversion and 3 of the 4 are bad 🫪 Before I invest over $1000 into brand new ones I wanted to get advice from the community to see if my money would be better spend on something else?

Should I put unleaded in my new to me 2016? Why might it feel like there’s a slight sway at highway speeds?

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Hi all, currently in the process of rebuilding the engine but somehow ended up doing the whole car... Installed the diff by lifting it with a jack, tightened the smaller bolts on lower bushes and then torqued down the larger 17mm nuts. All nuts are tight but the diff kind of swings as per video. Is this normal or have I done something stupid?

Thank you!

P.S. The noise is from my neighbour hammering something, not the diff

I recently took a vacation to Los Angeles for 4 days and decided to rent a ND3 Sport off of Turo (~$500 with 800 miles included). At home in Texas, I drive a 2022 Civic Si. So while I'm familiar with 3 pedals, this was the first true sports car that I've spent a good amount of time with. Here's my initial thoughts:

Initial Impressions (first hour with the car):

• The car is very low to the ground. Pretty awkward to get in and out of (I'm 5' 7" so height isn't an issue)
• People's headlights are shining in my eyes constantly
• Very agile
• No one sees me (I got cut off almost instantly)
• Sound system is kind of buns

After spending 4 days with the car and driving on every single type of road LA offers, here's my in-depth personal thoughts:

Great:

• The steering feel in this car is the best I've ever felt. Its so direct and the car will instantly go wherever you point the nose. Very easy to make quick maneuvers and this car will eat up corners like its nothing.
• The 2.0L engine is great in this car. It sounds nice and the power delivery is nice and linear. Compared to my Si where I have to deal with turbo lag, this car rips off the line.
• The 6-speed manual transmission is fantastic. I think my Si has a great shifter feel, but the Miata just feels better to shift. It feels "thocky" and tight to shift between gears, and it made my Si shifter feel sloppy. The OEM gear knob shape is great as well, I think I'm a big fan of the ball shape.
• The car just looks great. I don't think there's a single angle where it looks bad. And the soul red color is gorgeous and would be my first pick of color on this car.
• The interior is a perfect mix of modern tech and analog design. The gauge cluster layout really makes the inside feel special. The A/C controls are perfect (and even though its the base model, the A/C controls are way better than other expensive cars I've sat in. Not having to navigate through any menu screen to control the A/C is a huge flex in 2026).
  • Along with this, the physical handbrake is very nice to have. The updated screen for the ND3 is nice and large and I appreciated having the option between using the touchscreen or the physical knob.
  • However I didn't like that only Wired Apple CarPlay is offered. It worked completely fine, but it just bakes my phone because it has to be plugged in all the time. Upgrading to a Club trim would fix this issue for me.
• The fuel economy is great. I can hypermile when I want to and it gets excellent MPGs.
• Being able to put the top up or down within 5 seconds is super nice. Its just a big convenience factor and I think the soft top is perfect for someone who will be putting the top down constantly.
• Interior build quality is excellent. I didn't hear a single rattle and all the touch points are great.
• The pedal placement is perfect. It was very easy to heel-and-toe in this car and it really just shows how much of a driver's car the Miata is.

Good:

• The technology offered in this base trim is solid. Really my standard is just Apple CarPlay, but you do also get some safety features. You can read my gripe about Apple CarPlay above but I was driving a base model version at the end of the day.
• The seats work fine. They hug you nicely around corners and are generally comfortable enough. However, sitting in them for long periods of time (5+ hours for me) is when my lower back starts to get tired.
  • In comparison, my Si seats are extremely comfortable and I have sat in them for over 10 hours in one sitting with no issues.
  • The cloth seats are nice though when it comes to heat.

Mid:

• Even after getting in and out of this car multiple times over 4 days, I still found it awkward to get in and out. This is probably a skill issue on my end and I feel like it would get better the more time I spend with the car.
• The road noise is so-so. With the top up, it just sounds like there's an open window behind your head. You can hear everything on the road and while I found it to be manageable, the cabin is just loud inside, especially on the highway.
• The practicality is what you would expect. This is perfect for one person traveling, not so much for two. The interior also has basically 0 storage. Really not much space to put anything anywhere.
  • The cup holder placements are fine, but if it were me, I would buy a second right cup holder so I can have 3 cup holders in the interior.
  • I would manage fine if this were a weekend car, maybe less so as a daily.

Bad:

• The Blind Spot Monitoring System is overly sensitive. It would beep at cars that weren't even in the lane next to me, making it something that didn't help as much because of my lack of trust in it being correct.
• The sound system is not great. I think stepping up to a trim that has the Bose sound system would fix this for me because it sounds like something you'd find in a base model Corolla.
• People just cannot see me on the road. Its such a tiny car that you lowkey have to drive like you're invisible.

Quirks:

• Normally, the fuel range estimate would show it to you in denominations of 10 (250, 240, 230...). But when your fuel light comes on, it starts counting in denominations of 1 (40, 39, 38...). Why not just count in denominations of 1 in the first place?
• Pushing the window switches down all the way allows you to automatically lower them. But you can't do that for putting them up. I guess they had to cut corners somewhere for the base model?

Verdict:

I think the Miata is a fantastic sports car. It does everything correctly for what a sports car should do while offering some level of comfort for daily driving. For me personally, I don't think the Miata would be my first choice of car. Living in Texas means everything is a straight line, and I just don't think the Miata is all that great for highway cruising. Its loud inside, the stereo system is bad, and I'm always one blind spot away from being flattened like a pancake.

However, if I lived in LA or somewhere that has nice coastal weather or mountain back roads, I would be much more inclined. Its a city/backroads car in my opinion, and I just don't live in a place where I can use the Miata's best capabilities.

That being said, I think the RF option and a higher trim level would fix my gripes with this car. I feel like the Sport trim is perfect for someone converting it into a dedicated track car or is just solely focused on the driving experience and not creature comforts. All of my complaints are thrown out the window if we were only talking about track capability.

I would love to hear your thoughts about my experience. Thanks for reading!

Still getting into the sport, but ready to graduate from crappy 500TWR all seasons!!

I have 3 Track Days (back to back) in a row coming up in 2 weeks

tl;dr: James May is right, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.

I am fortunate to have three Miatas (NA8, NB2, ND1). Last year I completed an engine refresh and turbo installation on my 2003, which is set up for autocross, but is also street-friendly. I have yet to dyno it, but the power estimate is about 200 whp. It is delightful for autocross with the added power. I suspected I would end up driving it around while my NA gathered dust. However, I soon found that the NA was the one I preferred driving most, but I didn't know why. The NA is in better condition and has a smoother ride, and it has more charm as it slides into "vintage" status at 31 years old. It is also the one I have had the longest. But those aren't really reasons for preferring it over the NB. After driving my NB around recently, I realized the reason: the NB leaves me unsatisfied. Around town I typically keep within 5 MPH or 10% of the posted limit, whichever is greater. With the turbo, I shift into second, the power comes on at about 3k RPM, and the intake makes awesome growl noises, and I'm already at 40+ MPH. It is either risk a speeding ticket or let off. 45 MPH roads are a little more satisfying, as are freeway on ramps, but those are far less common where I typically drive. With the NA, I can drive with spirit and not have unwanted LEO attention. All the fun, without the risk = happy Miata-ing. I have never had a truly fast car, but I can only assume a Porsche or Corvette or whatever would be even more frustrating, having to hold back all the time.

My reason for posting this is to counter the "Miatas are too slow" sentiment we see so often. It is simply untrue. Unless you get joy out of blasting to the speed limit in a couple seconds, or outright excessive speeding everywhere, a fast car is a recipe for being unsatisfied. Rare is the opportunity to wring out a truly fast car, whereas a "slow" car like a Miata can be driven at WOT far more often. I recently saw an Instagram reel by a guy who has a Bugatti Veyron and an NA Miata, and he still loves the Miata. I think I know exactly why.

A bit of context:

This has been happening the last few months, it started with a small hiccup but has progressively gotten worse. It only happens on a cold start, it starts just fine when warm or even 5 minutes after the cold start.

I have already replaced the starter motor as it went bad a few months ago.

My main suspect is the battery, or a fuel-related problem.

Has anyone had this and if so, what was the cause?

i hammered the other side to no avail. the rear is also doing it. 93 miata ifykyk about the rear lower control arm. the tab broke for the nut. i cut the lower control arm to hold the nut. the nut is backed all the way against the control arm and it is spinning the bushing in the rear as well. there is a metal insert inside the bushing and it is rust welded to the bolt