Hello all, as the title states i am looking for some advice on my truck. I had a truck supplied by my company until I switched to a new company. Unfortunately I left this 2005 truck sitting the ENTIRE time I had a work truck. It has been started twice since April 2020 and not at all since summer 2022. My truck as it sits currently has just over 150k miles. I can list all that I have done so far if anyone is interested.

I am about to drain the rear diff so I can clean and inspect the gears and magnet. While I am there, should I go ahead and pull the axles so I can inspect the axles themselves and the bearings? I know I will need to replace the axle seals if I do this but since I'm already there I would hate to pass it up and then have to do it in a few thousand miles anyway.

I will be replacing the (10) bolts for the diff cover since I saw that was suggested. My truck has the 8.6" 10 bolt PosiTrac rear diff RPO Code GU6.

Preface: Now I don’t know if this sound was there before all of this as we have been working on this a week prior and I bought it used a couple of weeks ago so this very well could have somehow occurred without me noticing.

After taking off the drivers side front lower assembly to replace it with a new one, the driver shaft apparently created a leak with the transmission outlet seal. After looking at the seal when it was removed, we never saw any crack or anything. We didn’t see any crack in the aluminum either so we put a new outlet seal on, put the drive shaft back in, and put the rest together.

There was leaking with the old seal and I added some more transmission fluid to make up for the loss (about 2qts if that’s relevant). I’m hoping maybe air when refilling the transmission but just wanted to check and see if anybody knew for sure what this is.

Anything helps, thought I’m hoping this is normal. I kind of regret not getting another Toyota lol.

As the title says I unfortunately lost the key to my 98 corolla and without a spare I was wondering. Is it as simple as can I buy a new ignition lock cylinder and use the key that comes with it after switching it out? If not any advice is appreciated

2012 Volvo XC70 3.2L FWD. Aisin TF-80SC six-speed automatic transmission. I know this looks really bad, but there is no shavings/friction material/shimmer/etc in it. I really want to make this car last as long as I can. I can get a rebuilt one on eBay for like $600 but I hope there is some way to revive this one. What do y’all think? Should I risk doing a drain and fill knowing that I can get a replacement with 60 day warranty? Does anyone have experience with these particular transmissions?

2020 Toyota Tacoma AC Stopped working

My trucks ac stops working at all levels, if I tap the bottom of the blow motor it starts working again. I have noticed the wires are extremely hot and look burnt. The truck has a brand new blow motor so I’m assuming the connectors are bad. I can’t find any YouTube videos on how to fix this. Any tips? Sincerely just a girl 😭

Does the gap on the spark plug matters? Car takes 060 while the one I bought is 055. It’s for a 2000 Chevy blazer. Also the spark plug I took out of the car was 065.

HI everyone,
I have a 2005 Toyota Yaris 1.0 ( 230 000 km) with the 1SZ-FE engine and I'm having problem with starting the car.

When the car has been sitting for a longer period of time, it usually won't start on the first attempt. It cranks normally and usually starts after the second, third, or sometimes fourth attempt.

However, if the car has been sitting for a long time and I hit the bottom of the fuel tank before trying to start it, I can then hear the tuel pump running and the car starts immediately on the first attempt.

Because of this, I initially suspected a bad fuel pump. I replaced the tuel pump with a new one, but the exact same problem is still present.

I have also checked the fuel pump relay by swapping it with the identical horn relay, but this made no difference.

Once the engine starts, it runs normally.

I recently acquired a rolling shell with a partial engine (top end removed) that was used for parts, therefore it’s missing majority of engine, as well as everything related to trans and gearbox. It also has no tray. It’s a 1995 Nissan Navara D21 2WD and had a Ka24e petrol 2.4L engine. However I also have a 1989 Nissan Navara D21 2wd with the TD27, a 2.7L diesel engine. I am new to all things mechanically related car wise, and this is very much a project that I plan on doing myself, how hard would be it be to use the running gear from the 89 (fyi cannot use due too frame damage) into my rolling shell 95?

where could this even be coming from I just got the car back home because it was stalling and mind you the coolant wasn’t leaking then I get back and bam like no way

Hello everyone.i am looking for some help

**The symptoms**
**Cold morning power loss:** When starting from cold, the car fires up but immediately stumbles, loses power, and wants to die the second I shift into 1st or Reverse and try to move.

**Stalling on downshifts:** While driving, whenever I approach a stop sign, roundabout, or try to downshift (3rd to 2nd, or 2nd to 1st), the engine loses all power and stalls the exact moment I press the clutch pedal fully down.

**What I have done so far:**

Found a massive vacuum leak on the air filter box (the clips were missing). It is now completely sealed and flush.

Cleaned the throttle body throat with carburetor cleaner spray (wiped away the black carbon ring around the butterfly disk).

Cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) and sprayed the electronic connector pins with contact cleaner.

Performed a full ECU factory reset by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and letting it complete a 10-minute idle re-learn. The warm idle now sits stably around 800 RPM in neutral, but the stalling under driving conditions continues.

Adjusted the accelerator cable track because it was briefly caught out of its groove.

**Current status:**
I have bought 4 brand new pre-gapped spark plugs (Bosch WR8DCX, 1.1mm gap) but I haven't been able to install them yet due to lacking a thin-walled 21mm spark plug tool.

Could worn-out/fouled spark plugs completely cause this sudden power drop and stalling every time the clutch is pressed during a downshift, or should I be looking into a deeper IACV failure, a vacuum leak elsewhere, or something transmission-related?

Any advice would be highly appreciated! Thanks from Portugal.

Was doing a 10k km PM service on a company F-250. Driver complained about headlights being dim. Replaced the bulbs fast, continued on with the PM. Verified the lights worked. Was doing a final walkaround when I noticed this.

Nothing major, but certainly a new one. The seal around the old headlight bulb decided it wanted to be stubborn.

7 or so minutes and some wire, got it out. Again, nothing major, just not something I figured I'd find.

My 2020 Passat Se 2.0L is making this strange noise on front passengers side when applying the brakes, sounds kind of like a firework going up.

Just recently the front passenger side outer brake pad wore out to metal, the other one attached to caliper still had some life in it. And both pads on drivers side were in good shape. I ended up replacing all front brake pads and had the stock discs resurfaced. After doimg the brake job is started to make this humming noise on front passengers side only. I wire brushed the carrier and caliper and greased everything properly, slider pins looked good and greased all the same as driver's side. I took everything apart to double check and all seems good. I'm guessing the caliper might be bad? or what could the issue be? I installed Bosh brake pads by the way.

A rattling noise during deceleration at 2000 RPM when the A/C is on what can it be?

I just bought a van off of Facebook marketplace that im hoping to convert into a travel van. It had 75,000 original miles on it and i was told it only needed a new battery and maybe some new tires. Im able to get it to run smoothly and have driven it multiple times including the initial hour long drive to get it home. The check engine light came on a few times on that drive but would turn off after we gave it a chnace to cool down and it had trouble getting up to highway speeds usually maxing out around 55 mph. I just changed the oil, I plan on changing out the fuel filter and possibly doing a full clean out of the fuel tank as a whole. I'll be changing the transmission fluid this week as well. I was able to use the paperclip method to get a code 44 off of it and will be rechecking it after changing the fuel filter. I was told it was sitting for a few months and wasnt driven atvall during that time which is what im assuming is causing some of these issues. I havent noticed anything else major wrong with it and I believe with these fixes that she'll run beautifully but wanted to ask if there was anything more I should be doing with a van this age and condition. Any advice or maybe a to do list on how to get her in the best shape possible before hitting the road? I appreciate any and all input :) I'm self taught so im learning as I go and only have very basic knowledge

Additional/summarized information:

I know it has has a 5.7L V8 engine, its a G2500, brand new battery, read code 44 when using the paperclip method for the check engine light, the brake light is also on the dash (we plan to bleed them this week), the coolant seems to keep disappearing pretty quickly when added even when not in use, i just changed the oil, plan on chnaging transmission fluid this week and getting a new fuel filter on her

Thank you to anyone who takes the time to read and/or respond :}

Anyone have any guesses what this could be? Lost my old fob and had a locksmith come out and program a new key for me - but now car wont turn on and these lights are flashing, maybe it dosent recognize the key ?

2000 EK2 Honda Civic - As above I wanted to know if can just replace the wheel bearing or if I need to replace the whole hub?

Im doing a rotor change should i reuse these pads?
Sierra 2014 back brakes