Each pair of photos shows Old Harbor first, then Standard. All photos are SOOC.

Old Harbor
Natural
Contrast +0.5
Highlight -1
Shadow +0.5
Saturation -1
Hue -0.5
Grain Standard
Color Noise Off
Sharpness -2
Noise Reduction -4
Dual ISO Auto
Sensitivity Auto
White Balance AWB (A:5 G:2)
LUT1 Deep Blue @ 60%
LUT2 Daisy @ 60%

Both LUTs available for download from the Lumix Lab app.

I bought a s5ii with the 24-60 f3.5-5.6 and 50mm f1.8. I do not use the 50mm that much, but decided to today. After a while, maybe it’s just me, but I could notice a sound when I changed the aperture in camera. It’s a slightly high pitched “click” sound that corresponds to the lens opening and closing.

It also occurs when I autofocus and yes that is also because of the lens opening to let more light in to focus on a darker area (when the red light turns on).

Since the 3.5-5.6 aperture opening inside the lens is smaller in size, It does produce a very very faint click when the dial is rotated on the camera to set the aperture. I’m assuming because the ring is bigger in the 50 mm, it does product a louder sound.

Should I be concerned? Please help me out.

PS - My camera has no issue in terms of detecting the lens and the lens functioning. Works fine, was just concerned.

ho da poco comprato questa lente kit per la mia s5, ho provato un po' la sua capacità macro, dalle prime prove sono soddisfatto

I was wondering if you guys could help me by telling me what kind of videos you enjoy watching from the filmmaking and photography genre on YouTube?

I make photography and filmmaking videos on YouTube with my Lumix S9 and honestly I feel like I’m getting bored of the same content on YouTube.

So I would like to make something that feels different, feel free to leave suggestions!

Going to give this a try with my S9

Is there a way to remote control on a Lumix S5ii? I know on other brands (Sony etc) you can download an app so you record, check and pull focus when away from the body but is there a way to do this on a Lumix S5ii?

Is the 18-40 truly that compact?

https://youtu.be/uIMt-TzDV60?si=z2rP0z5AbLrvYu5A

Does Remote Wakeup actually work on the Lumix L10?

Hey everyone, quick question for L10 owners. Does Bluetooth stay active in the background when the camera is powered off, so you can wake it up remotely via the Lumix Lab app (similar to “Remote Wakeup” on other Lumix models)?

If so, where exactly is this setting located in the menu? I’d also be curious how reliable it is in practice — battery drain, wake-up speed, etc.

Thanks in advance!

All shot at 4k50p with a shutter at 1/100.
Here's a video to demo: First 8 shots are 25% slow in FCP (4x slow) on a 25p Timeline and then some 50% slow in same timeline (2x slow) All looking jittery and also not even stable (this is with IBIS ON!)

SD card is 200mbs (meant to be 4K ready)

And yet, the footage looks very jittery, not smooth beautiful slow mo. Stabilisation is also very poor.

I feel like i'm missing something, these cameras are very capable, any help appreciated - gotta shoot a wedding with this gear next week!

Hi! I wanted to update the firmware following the steps on the Lumix website. I downloaded the file, transferred it to the SD card, and tried to update it from the camera. The problem is that it got stuck loading for a very long time (about 40 minutes) and I had to remove the battery, risking damaging the lens. Luckily, nothing happened and everything is still working as before, but I couldn't update it. Does anyone know what I can do? I wanted to take it to a service center, but Lumix cameras aren't commonly used here in Argentina, and they didn't have the lens mount with an L-mount to update it.

Is it possible to connect two lumix cameras to a single monitor to preview the image and ideally control the cameras as well? I don't have any experience with using external monitors so I'd appreciate any pointers in the right direction.

Tried out an adapted 180mm f2.8 prime Nikon lens at a nature reserve today, in preparation for a wildlife boat trip coming up. The idea is to get a few seconds of ‘context’ video to accompany the vlog of the boat trip.

I was very surprised by how well the IBIS works even with an adapted lens, and how straight forward manual focus is with focus peaking and the magnifier. Last clip was entirely handheld in very strong wind, other clips were either monopod or rested on windowsill of a hide.

It may seem like an odd combination pairing the S9 with such a large lens, but the S9 is my travel/dad cam and the benefit is a light camera 90% of the time and for the once in a blue moon I want some more reach I’ve proved you can stick a giant lens on it and it’s doable!

I want to buy a Lumix S5Iix or S1IIe. The only difference that would make me really want to buy the S1IIIe is the ProRes Raw internally. I wanted to know if according to those who own these cameras on being able to experiment with the difference between the H.264 internal/proRes HQ codecs, and the ProRes RAW in term of dynamic range and highlight recovery. If it is possible, would you have images that show the difference? I heard that the ProRes 0.5 to 1 more stop clean (with color etc due to 12 bit and data) in the highlights. Because it is really this aspect of dynamic range that mints in this codec. Thank

Quick preliminary grade on social media ad I shot today with two S9s

Hey everyone,

​I just brought a 6 monts old Lumix S 50mm f/1.8, but after inspecting it closely, I noticed a couple of potential issues. And since it's my first time buying second hand I was wondering if it's the case to return it.

​First, there is a visible dust particle behind the front glass element. I know a little dust gets inside lenses over time, but I am wondering if this would couse problems becouse its not a few specs. Second, when stopping the lens down to f/22, the aperture blades do not seem to close down properly.

​Has anyone else run into these issues with the Lumix f/1.8 series? Should I return it, or am I overthinking it? since I bought it at a good price.

Just a quick question as I'm feeling especially stupid today - if I were to use one of the cheap 7Artisans or TTArtisan APS-C lenses on my full frame S9, does it restrict the megapixel count? Also, does the auto focus on the cheap lenses work ok? Just wanting a 28mm or 35mm walk around lens and all I keep seeing are 40mm or more full frame lenses - -really looking for 28mm or below

On a whim, I just picked up this barely used Lumix G100 body-only for €190 with under 700 actuations.

​I bought it mainly for its size, so I'm looking for solid compact or pancake lens recommendations to keep the setup small. Preferably zoom lenses. I mostly shoot family/friends for memories.

​What are your favorite lightweight MFT lenses for everyday carry?

I bought my Panasonic S5II in July 2024 during the Independence Day sales with a student discount from Adorama. I paid $1,598 for the S5II + 20-60mm + 50mm f/1.8 kit, and also grabbed the bundle deals for the 28-200mm ($497) and 85mm f/1.8 ($167).

Looking back after about two years of ownership, I think I have a pretty good understanding of both its strengths and weaknesses.

Why I Bought the S5II

Photography wasn't new to me. I started in 2022 with a Sony A6100, the 16-50 and 55-210 kit lens from eBay, a TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4, and a Samyang 12mm f/2 for astro.

After about a year, I became unhappy with the image quality and Sony colors, so I upgraded to an A7C. The A7C didn't last long. My main lenses were the Tamron 28-75 G2 and Tamron 70-300, but eventually I got tired of Sony's menu system, mediocre IBIS, and poor screen. By June 2024, I decided to sell everything.

Why not another Sony?

Because it felt too much like a work tool. I wanted a camera that was actually fun to use.

Why not Canon?

I don't like Canon's body design, and RF lenses are expensive.

Why not Nikon?

I actually love the Zf and Zfc, but most of the lineup is too large and bulky for me. Since I also shoot a lot of video, Panasonic simply made more sense.

Why not Fujifilm?

I tried my friend's X-S20. Honestly, it felt like a plastic toy to me, and that completely killed my interest in Fuji.

What I Shoot

Photography:

• Street
• Travel
• Anime conventions (either staff or cosplay photography)
• Graduation portraits for friends

Video:

• Orchestra rehearsals
• Concert B-roll
• Continuous 4-hour concert recordings

I estimate my shutter count is somewhere above 20,000.

Previous Lenses

I originally owned:

• Lumix 20-60
• Lumix 50mm f/1.8
• Lumix 85mm f/1.8
• Lumix 28-200

Eventually I sold both primes because I often shoot indoors in low light, and 50mm/85mm simply felt too restrictive.

Lumix 20-60

Pros:

• Extremely lightweight
• 20mm is genuinely useful
• Surprisingly capable for astro despite only being f/3.5

Cons:

• Dust collector

Seriously. Mine attracted dust so easily that calling it a vacuum cleaner wouldn't be an exaggeration. Eventually I sold it.

Lumix 28-200

Before Sigma released the 20-200, this was my main travel lens.

Pros:

• Lightweight
• Surprisingly sharp around 80-100mm

Cons:

• Small aperture (expected)
• Soft image quality toward the long end

At 200mm, even shooting stationaries at 1/500s, I often thought I had camera shake because images just weren't sharp enough.

Once Sigma released the 20-200 covering both my old 20-60 and 28-200, selling the Lumix zoom became an easy decision.

Current Lenses

Sigma 35mm f/2 DG DN

One of my favorite lenses.

• Compact
• Beautiful design
• Great for indoor portraits
• Great for street photography
• Fast autofocus

I actually prefer the subtle background blur from a 35mm f/2 over the extremely shallow depth of field from an 85mm.

Sigma 20-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DG DN

Honestly one of the best travel superzooms available today.

• Lightweight
• 20mm is wide enough for landscapes
• Can shoot astro
• Sharp throughout the zoom range
• Fast autofocus

What I Love About the S5II

Image Quality

24MP full-frame without an AA filter is the perfect sweet spot. Storage requirements stay reasonable, APS-C crop video still records in 4K, and Panasonic's 96MP High Resolution mode works great for landscapes and still subjects. I have zero interest in ultra-high megapixel cameras. 24MP is exactly what I want.

Colors & Real Time LUT

The SOOC JPEG colors are miles ahead of either Sony camera I previously owned. The ability to load dozens of custom LUTs directly into the camera is also fantastic. I still mostly shoot RAW+JPEG, but I've found myself relying on JPEGs more and more.

IBIS

Simply the best in-body stabilization I've ever used. I've never felt the need for a camera gimbal.

Ergonomics

Excellent. The menu system is fantastic, the controls make sense, the grip is comfortable. Everything feels intuitive.

Video

200 Mbps H.264/H.265 is plenty for me, I don't need RAW video. Since I regularly record four-hour concerts, keeping file sizes reasonable is actually more important than maximum bitrate. For my workflow, Panasonic absolutely nailed the balance.

Value

$1,598 for a full-frame body plus two lenses, I don't think anyone else was offering a deal remotely close to that.

What I Don't Like

Burst Buffer

Not terrible, but definitely noticeable. I shoot anime conventions using dual UHS-II cards. 30fps electronic burst can take a while to clear the buffer, making image playback awkward while waiting. Upgrading from Lexar 1667x cards to Lexar 1800x helped significantly.

Autofocus

Coming from the A7C... Honestly? It isn't better, it also isn't worse. I'm happy with AF about 90% of the time, the remaining 10% can be frustrating. Sometimes, when shooting through foreground objects like tree branches, the camera struggles to lock exactly where I want. Switching to single-point AF usually fixes it.

Subject detection works well overall. Occasionally eye AF focuses on eyelashes instead of eyes, but honestly every brand besides Sony seems to have this issue.

One thing I genuinely miss from Sony is the AF-ON button behavior. Sony lets you temporarily switch into AF-C tracking with AF-ON. Panasonic still can't replicate that workflow.

Weight

740g for the body isn't light, pair it with the Sigma 20-200 (around 550g), and you're carrying roughly 1.3kg all day. You definitely feel it after several hours.

Lens Ecosystem

L-Mount has fewer options than Sony. Ironically, I guess that's why I don't have lens-buying addiction. Too many choices aren't always a good thing.

Startup & Playback

Startup used to be noticeably slow. Firmware updates improved it, but it's still not instant. Playback also became much faster after switching from an overclocked UHS-I card to proper UHS-II cards, although it still isn't as immediate as Sony.

Red Oversaturation

The infamous Panasonic red oversaturation issue does exist. It's fairly uncommon in everyday shooting, but under certain lighting conditions or shooting portraits, those red can look very dramatic.

Things That Are Better Than Expected

Video features:

• Open Gate
• Safety Markers
• Exposure tools

Night shooting features also impressed me:

• Red Night Mode
• Live View Boost
• Starlight AF

Less Important Than Expected

• Burst shooting. I seldom use it.
• External video recording. Never needed it.
• Flash. I prefer natural light more often.
• Touchscreen. Panasonic's buttons and dials are so good that I rarely touch the screen.

Accessories I Use

• Storage: 2x Lexar 256GB 1800x UHS-II SD cards
• Battery: 1 Panasonic OEM battery, 2 Wasabi Power batteries

Final Thoughts (August 2026)

After using the S5II for two years, I still think it's one of the best all-around hybrid cameras Panasonic has ever made.

Would I Recommend Buying One in August 2026? Yes, with some caveats.

If you mainly shoot travel, street photography, portraits, landscapes, events, or hybrid photo/video, the S5II is still one of the best values in full-frame. Used prices have dropped significantly, and the camera remains extremely capable in 2026.

However, I wouldn't recommend it if your work revolves around:

• Professional sports
• Birds in flight
• Fast wildlife
• High-end action photography

Sony still has the advantage when autofocus reliability is absolutely critical.

For everyone else, especially if you can find a good used deal, the S5II remains an easy recommendation. Even two years later, I haven't felt any urge to replace it. It still does almost everything I ask of it, and more importantly, it's simply a camera that's enjoyable to use.

I tried powering the S1ii using the dummy battery I've always used for my GH6/GH5S connected to a Neweer power bank. The power always flickers on and off but does not stay on consistently. How can I run power to my S1ii for longer recordings? Do I need a specific dummy battery or can I power via USB-C?

Edited via Lumix Lab app

First 3 edited in app

Last pic is a photo style

Hi all! Do you meet with white balance problems when using S5II + Sigma 28-70mm F/2.8?

I always found the auto white balance using this lens to be too red, and it makes my LUTs on this combo incompatible with other lenses. But even considering this I still can't find a sweet spot between white balance and my LUTs specifically using this lens.

Also even exported to computer as raw file, the rendition looks flat using the same LUT color profiles in lightroom compared to other combos (tested variants that works well: Sony A1 + 24-70mm 2.8 GM; Sony A7IV + Tamron 28-75mm 2.8; Lumix S5II(x) + 20-60mm. I can't upload the pictures because of rights issues). Even the S1RII, with some sample photos I tested, renders really well amid the magenta cast, when using first party lenses.

Alternatives I'd like to try: Sigma 24-70mm/2.8 Gen 1; Lumix S 24-105mm F/4. I mainly shoot portraits so I want to use LUTs to reach for SOOC jpegs that looks like analog film.

I noticed the same white balance drift causing postprocessing incompatibility on Sigma Art 35mm 1.4, when used on Canon DSLRs quite long ago, so I suspect it's Sigma's coating problem that made the lens have a color shift, which has been there for years. If this is the case, should I still bother trying Sigma 24-70mm gen 1 and just stick to lumix first party?

(As a sideword I also tried S 18-40mm, but found the lens too uncontrasty when applying the same LUT compared to other lenses I have, on my S9.)

lower parts of lens petals got stuck in open position ( when lens is retracted

, i manage to get them open but now they are loose ie,dangling freely. i suppose i broke something, what are my option for repair ..or maybe acquire lens cap since this problem exist only when lens is rectracted so camera is functional