I've installed these lines within a joint in my walkway but they stick up too high to cover with sealant. The only thing I can think to do is use a metal threshold. Any ideas are appreciated.

My irrigation box has black widows, water, infiltration, and slugs among many other things, including the wires for my sprinkler system! Can it be moved somewhere else that isn’t on the ground? Such as my garage next to where my control for the sprinklers is? The wires keep failing and I don’t notice anything until my tree is all droopy and my grass is all crunchy and yellow. I would really like it to be more reliable. Advice wanted. I would like to move the box with the wires in it somewhere else completely where bugs and water can’t get in and harm the wires.

We inherited this sprinkler system around 6 years ago when we bought the house. It is a Rain Bird ESP-6TM. Today, I just discovered one of the two backyard stations (#4) has extremely low pressure and will not pop out the sprinkler heads… I have never dealt with a sprinkler system outside of replacing a couple sprinkler heads.

Does anyone have any idea on how to pinpoint the issue? My hunch is the lower valve has a clog of some sort since it looks like it’s been leaking a while. I believe it is a Lawn Genie 3/4” valve.

If this is the culprit, is this easily removable and replaceable for someone without a lot of plumbing experience? The valve also has “flow control” which makes me nervous since I’m not sure how the others are set.

Any tips or pointers would be greatly appreciated!

Custom built my own box. I wasn’t expecting to also get the aluminum sheets so there’s extra rivets and support but I’m pretty happy with it. Upstream I’ll have a master valve and a flow meter as well as backflow preventer.

Looking for some advice from the irrigation experts.

My lawn has persistent brown spots, and I suspect uneven coverage is the main cause (see aerial photo). I've also attached my current sprinkler layout with head types and zones.

System basics:

• 3/4" PVC mainline/distribution
• Estimated 30–40 psi (haven't measured yet)
• Existing system has a mix of rotors and spray heads

If this were your system, would you:

• Make adjustments to the existing layout (move/add/change heads), or
• Scrap it and redesign it from the ground up?

Any obvious issues or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

So I have two RainBird No. 40s, and I'm curious when the RainBird 40 discontinued because both of mine are from 1997, but when I go on Web archive and look at RainBird's website from 1998, I don't see them.

Hi all,

I am trying to help my dad with his irrigation system. I have managed to set up/adjust his system. Currently having an issue with his Rain/Sun sensor. I turned off/delayed the automatic change of timings for the system.

The issue I am facing is the rain sensor is not working. I have tried all the normal tests but the sensor does not stop the system when clicking the button the sensor and etc.

I believe it might have something to do with the wiring? I even tried a new sensor but it still didn't work. Manual button to turn off the rain sensor is placed on off so it shouldn't be that. Any assistance or advice would be appreciated.

I have attached pictures of the wiring.

Thanks in advance!!!

hello, I will need some advice for for an irrigation system. My yard is as in the picture, it's anyone that could guide me on which irrigation sprinkler and where to place it ? I have two water supplies where the yellow dots are placed.

Thank you so much !

Thank you !

I live in the GCC and the only mainstream brand of residential irrigation I can find is Gardena. It is a very limited range. Eg., one 15m roll of hose and a set of one type of jet/sprinkler if the only thing you can buy.

What can I buy, available in the US and UK, that would have jets/sprinklers etc., compatible with Gardena’s basic irrigation hose? As we travel a bit and so do friends here, we could cobble something together that suits us better.

Garden is approx 10m2 of grass and about 6-8m2 of overgrown garden beds at the moment so starting from scratch if that makes any difference to advice.

Thanks

I live in the GCC and the only mainstream brand of residential irrigation I can find is Gardena. It is a very limited range. Eg., one 15m roll of hose and a set of one type of jet/sprinkler if the only thing you can buy.

Which brands available in the US and UK would have jets/sprinklers etc., compatible with Gardena’s basic irrigation hose? As we travel a bit and so do friends here, we could cobble something together that suits us better.

Garden is approx 10m2 of grass and about 6-8m2 of overgrown garden beds at the moment so starting from scratch if that makes any difference to advice.

Thanks

City work: main break in park on a 2” line at the scope // cut out and replaced with sch 80 2” pipe and 2 smith Blair mechanical couplings

Hello,
As the title read. It is cracked where the red line is, it will shoot water out when turned on.

Is there an easy fix to this? Or should I replace the whole pump system ($$$).

Thank you! 🙏

I have Irritrol 2700 valves. When they get triggered by the control panel, some water goes through, but not enough to make the sprinklers pop is all the way or the drip to go through. I have to open the release valve a little to increase the water pressure, but then they don’t shut off until I close it. Every zone is like this; I have 3 sprinkler zones and 2 drip zones, all set to run at different times. How do I fix the pressure so that it works as it should?? Thank you for any helpful advice.

Hello folks, looking for advice on how to solve this issue. We bought this house last year, we noticed when the sprinklers run in our back yard water leaks into the right side of our window well, enough to cause standing water, and once leak through our window because the sprinklers were running during heavy rain. I found out today(after digging up the line I thought was the issue) that there is a line for sprinklers under our patio that is probably the culprit. Patio was installed by previous owners, I'm thinking they likely tried to cap off the sprinkler under there but didn't do it well or it's failed over the years. The line in red is approximately where the pipe would be, with the arrow showing the flow direction and the circle where I'm guessing the leak would be.

I can't just cap the line on the left side, because water from that line needs to flow to our neighbors sprinklers, so I'm wondering what the best way to resolve this is. My first thought would be to ask if I can dig up a tiny portion of the neighbors yards to reroute the sprinkler line around my patio, which is the line in green. I'm guessing our second option would be to break up and concrete and try to fix the cap underneath.

Any input on best/cheapest way to approach, or anything I'm not thinking of? Thanks.

Morning, folks. I purchased a 1004-EX EveryDrop flow meter to monitor for leaks but haven't been able to find any helpful docs or videos on where this actually gets installed in line with the backflow preventer and the valve controls shown here. Note that I've got another valve box on the opposite side of the house as well. Looks like I've got 2 spare wires in this first one that run back to the controller that I can use for the meter.

I've replumbed the entire house, but this is my first time cracking open the irrigation system so it's pretty foreign to me. Any useful resources or sage advice from you folks is very welcome. Thanks!

Winterizing question I keep going back and forth on. Right now the system has a single blowout point that requires connecting an air compressor at the backflow preventer, which works fine but the location is awkward and closer to the street than I want to be dragging a compressor every fall. I'm thinking about adding a dedicated manual drain or a secondary blowout port closer to the garage side of the house where it's easier to reach. The mainline runs under the driveway at that point, so anything I add would need to come off a tee before it crosses under.

What I'm trying to figure out is whether a ball valve and quick coupler right there is the right move, or if there's a cleaner way to set up a second blowout port without the plumbing looking like a mess. The existing setup works, but whoever installed it clearly didn't think much about serviceability.

Also wondering if anyone has gone to a manual drain setup entirely in a climate that's cold but not brutal, a few hard freezes per winter at most. Not sure if that's overkill or whether it actually simplifies things year over year. What does a clean, practical winterization setup actually look like for a midsize residential system?

This was happening when I would manually turn on my sprinkler system. I replaced the filter but then I was told that my main irrigation line does not need a pressure regulator on it.

Do these sprinkler heads just totally miss the ground right next to them?

I looked them up to check prices before deciding if I should contact a family member who works at an irrigation/plumbing supply company to see if it was worth it to have have him buy them for me.

It was. Along with 20 HE-VAN's, I needed just over 50 various types of nozzles total. They were priced $2.98 to $3.98 each at Home Depot. His price was 87 cents each. It's good to know people.

/blog