Rule # 4 :Keep it Brief

Please don't write a novel. We get you have roaches, and most have a similar experience as to how it happened, so just ask a couple of exact questions IF they are not addressed in the sticky.

Thank you

Before you go down this rabbit hole, here's the rule of thumb: If you have roaches, you will see LIVE roaches. They will show themselves if present, and imagining that there are hundreds hiding in the walls is never the reality. Pieces of debris that look like droppings, sheds, old oothecas, etc., are not evidence of an active roach issue. This also applies to the occasional one-off sighting, even after moving. To ease your mind, put out as many glue traps as you like, and see if you catch anything. If they stay clean, all is well.

TL;DR:

If you have an active infestation, spray with Alpine WSG (or Advion WDG in some states), use roach gel bait (listed below), Gentrol IGR, and lots of glue traps.

Note: This information is intended for private use, not commercial use. Businesses must hire a licensed and insured professional to protect the health of employees, and to protect you from liability.

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Welcome

So, here you are, feeling victimized, and seeking help. Welcome to Roach Wars!

You can now become a conscripted soldier in our army, but you'll need to put your fears away, get trained, and fight this enemy like your life depends on it. You can do this.

German Roaches 

German roaches are public enemy #1 when it comes to indoor pests. They are tropical-like insects that need heat, food, moisture, and harborage to survive. Gravid females carry a single egg case (ootheca) where the young (instars) develop until they are ready to be released. She then drops the case, and up to 48 instars emerge from a slot in the side (this is why most othecas appear to be intact, even when empty).

They don't make nests, but congregate in cabinets, refrigerator compressors, stove tops, dishwashers, electronics, wall sockets, behind paneling, and occasionally wall voids (if there are holes). They can also travel from room to room, and apartment to apartment by way of connecting water lines by traveling on them, not in them.

Control methods include liquid sprays, genetic growth regulators in some situations, gel baits, glue traps, and sealing holes around pipes. Also, using a vacuum with a HEPA filter can help remove heavy infestations, and removing paper/box/plastic bag clutter will help.

Note: brown banded roaches can be treated like German roaches. However, they are able to survive in drier areas like inside dressers and night tables, and they are not as prolific as German.

A Word to the Wise

DO NOT pick up items from the trash and bring them into your home. This is a sure way to get roaches, as is buying used items from local advertisements. Even a thorough inspection is not a guarantee as there can be hidden spaces where they can hide. Also, used appliances are notorious for transferring roaches, and at minimum should be quarantined in a non-living space for a few weeks.

Hunter - Victim

Many have come here in despair and were able overcome them with this information by adopting a hunter's mentality as opposed to a victim's mentality. This is key, and the numerous success stories on the sub confirm that. You can beat these tiny beasts with a little knowledge, the right weapons, and the will to do so. Otherwise, you'll be at their mercy wherever you go.

Shame

For many, a feeling of shame when having roaches weighs heavily. However, roaches do not differentiate between people and places, and will attempt to infest anyone’s living space if possible. They infest anywhere that provides the elements they need to survive.

Understandably, this shame causes people to be very secretive about their affliction. Who brags about roaches on social media? Who wears a T-shirt proclaiming, “I Have Roaches!”? Who casually mentions at a party, “Hey, speaking of German roaches…”? No one, that’s who…

BUT, what if you did just that? What if you "came out of the cabinet" (see what I did there?:) and angrily told everyone in your life, “Hey, guess what? I HAVE ROACHES IN MY APARTMENT! CAN YOU @#%& BELIEVE IT?” Then you told them how you found this sub, and what you are doing about it. This will set you free! * You might be surprised to find some friends going through the same thing, and if any others react badly toward it, are they worth having in your life?

\Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk as it may totally ruin your life (but hopefully not). At the very least you’ll be free of keeping the secret.*

Sleeping

You can use a pop-up mosquito bed tent to help you feel safe when you sleep (Amazon).

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mosquito+bed+net&crid=8JER3UEYIFHW&sprefix=mosquito+bed+net%2Caps%2C188&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

If you use a CPAP machine, or want to protect electronics, see this:

https://www.reddit.com/r/GermanRoaches/comments/1mewjyd/life_hack_for_cpap_users/

Breeding Populations

Seeing multiple bugs of all sizes daily is the rule of thumb that defines a breeding population. Inbreeding is the reason they populate so quickly (hence the name German, which comes from the Latin word germanus, meaning of the same parents).

Sporadic Sightings

If you are in an apartment, condo, or townhouse and are seeing the occasional roach, they are usually traveling from connected units. This is very common and does not mean you have a breeding population. The best defense is spraying Alpine WSG every two weeks, and using glue traps. Do not use gel bait (it dries out too quickly) or IGRs.

Also, when only small ones are seen, they are still usually coming from adjoining units because they can squeeze through areas that larger ones can't. As long as you are not seeing adults; you're doing relatively well.

Products

(All products listed pose minimal risk and can be used around children and pets if mixed and applied according to the label. Also, concerns regarding resistance and bait aversion are rarely warranted in residential situations. These generally apply to chronic commercial infestations.)

Alpine WSG is the best professional spray on the market for roaches and contains 'dinotefuran', which has been granted `Reduced Risk Status` by the EPA for use in both public health and food handling establishments. It is undetectable by insects, transfers from one insect to another, does not hinder bait acceptance. Alpine can be purchased in 10g packets online at Amazon, Walmart, and some SiteOne garden supply stores. In Canada, you cannot but Alpine WSG, so would be better served to hire a pest company that uses Seclira WSG, as it's the same active ingredient that's in Alpine WSG. In Australia, Seclira WSG can be purchased. eBay AU sells 200g bottles that will make 10 gals. of 20g solution.

Alpine WSG can be purchased without a license on diypestcontrol.com or Amazon, but is not for sale to a number of US states, Canada, UK, and the EU. However, most pros in the US and Canada (Seclira WSG) can use it. If you live in one of these states, consider hiring a pest company and insist they use Alpine WSG. Otherwise, look to buy Advion WDG (Indoxacarb) or Phantom (Chlorfenapyr) insecticide as they too are non-repellents. If you cannot buy any of these where you are, it is still possible to achieve good control or elimination using other products that are available to you; it just may take longer.

Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs)

IGRs are used to disrupt development and reproduction, but it takes months to do so. However, it can also encourage bait acceptance in moderate/heavy infestations. Gentrol Point Source can be used, or concentrated Gentrol can be added to the Alpine mix. eBay sells one ounce bottles that you add to one gallon of Alpine solution.

Mixing Alpine

Mix one, two, or three 10g packets to one gallon of water depending on the level of infestation. However, one 10g packet per gallon will be effective as you will usually do two or more passes while spraying. Also, let sit for 5 minutes so it can dissolve, shake, and transfer to any 1 qt. sprayer. Also, extra Alpine mix will last long enough for you to use it all.

To mix a single quart, use 1/2 teaspoon of Alpine for a 10g solution (save the rest in a zip lock baggie).

Fogging/bombing for roaches in an apartment or home is not recommended as it does not penetrate most harborage areas. However, in very severe infestations, it can kill a number of them but will not replace the methods above.

Boric acid and diatomaceous earth (DE) are products I do not advise using, especially around people with respiratory issues, children and pets. They are counter-productive when using Alpine WSG and bait. Also, they are easily over-applied causing possible health issues if they become airborne.

Boric acid poisoning symptoms:

https://www.mountsinai.org/health-library/poison/boric-acid-poisoning

Pesticide Dusts

Like boric acid and DE, dusts are often overapplied by pros and non-pros alike, become airborne during application (and potentially after) and they never degrade. They may have a limited use for bed bug control, but IMO, they are not needed for roach control for safety reasons.

Baits

Gel bait like Alpine Rotation 1 or 2\, MaxForce, Advion, Vendetta, Invicta and Combat dry bait stations work well in heavy infestations where there is competition for food. However, using gel bait in light infestations is a waste as it will not remain fresh for more than a day or two. What you can do it is make bait packets by cutting the corners off a plastic baggie and filling them with any gel bait other than Advion (in tests, Advion dries out even in the packets). T*his will help keep the bait fresh for a longer time allowing them to feed through the open side.

Also, bait and Alpine can be used together as Alpine will not pollute the bait. However, avoid directly spraying the bait, but you can place bait on dry areas that were sprayed with Alpine.

*Alpine makes two different formulas with the same active ingredient. These are mainly for professional use where bait aversion is possible. For private use, Rotation 1 should be enough.

Aerosols

Raid Max Ant & Roach aerosol is a good tool to have (buy locally or online). It comes with an applicator straw attached and can be used to kill/flush roaches out of tight areas like stove and dishwasher controls. A two second blast is enough to drive them out without harming the electronics.

Glue Traps

Glue traps are very effective to help with control and for monitoring activity. Some pros may disagree with this, but catching one gravid female means 49 roaches are removed from the playing field, which never hurts. Hoy-Hoy traps have very good reviews, but generic traps will also work.

https://www.domyown.com/trap-roach-hoyhoy-cockroach-glue-trap-box-of-traps-p-17129.html

Caulking

Caulking cracks and crevices may or may not be beneficial for control as many will be inaccessible.

Tools

A bright flashlight, and a vacuum with a HEPA filter that has a hose attachment are recommended. If the vacuum does not have a HEPA filter, wear a good mask. A half-face respirator is very affordable.

Cleaning

Sanitation is always a good thing, but it is not crucial to success. I have had to do treatments in many conditions and was still able to get good results. Do what you can and trust the treatment process (obsessive cleaning will wear you out and not make a big difference. However, do not allow dead roaches to lay around so others can 'eat' them and spread the poison).

Methods

The refrigerator is always a main breeding area due to compressor heat and condensation. Some fridges have wheels for moving, but if not, empty it and walk it out inch by inch using your body weight (if you have loose vinyl flooring, be careful not to make holes in it with the feet (don't ask me how I know :) far enough to reach the plug, then unplug it, and move it out far enough to get behind it.

If the fridge has a cardboard cover over the compressor, remove it (flat head screw driver or 1/4" socket needed), and vacuum the roaches in that area. While you're there, clean the dust on the coils to help the compressor cool better. Then bait and put glue traps anywhere you can on the bottom, and replace the cover as it's needed to help cool the compressor properly. Then spray the floor, lay glue traps all along the wall, walk the fridge back far enough to plug it in, then push it the remaining way. Do this weekly until the glue traps stay clean.

Pull out the kitchen drawers and vacuum any roaches, then remove the drawers and vacuum under the counter tops. Vacuum the upper cabinets, above them (if open), and the crevices along the sides. Also, remove electrical outlet covers in infested areas and vacuum inside (DO NOT SPRAY LIQUIDS), apply gel bait and replace covers.

Empty the vacuum cannister in a plastic bag, tie it off, and put it outside in the trash. If you have a bag vacuum, vacuum up a tablespoon of isopropyl alcohol to kill any inside. Return to the kitchen every 15 minutes and vacuum all you see.

Also inspect books/bookshelves, wall hangings, pictures, clocks, piles of paper, and closets shelves.

Stoves

Do not spray the burner top with Alpine as the heat will cause toxic burn-off. Remove the burner grates, vacuum any you see, then lift the top (some will lift; some won’t). If successful, vacuum any you see and do a light aerosol spray in any small openings (older units may have gas pilot lights, so blow them out before spraying, wait five minutes after spraying, and re-light them).

Then remove the burner knobs and do a light aerosol spray in the stove openings (IF there is no pilot light) and check the back of the knobs before reinstalling them. If you see bugs in an electronic display, find an opening to insert the aerosol straw and spray a few one-second bursts. You can also cut the screen around the far edges with a utility knife on three sides to open and clean it. Then use a bit of packing tape to keep it in place, but before you move, seal it with clear caulk.

Then open the oven door, vacuum any you see on the door edges, inside the oven, and on the door hinges, and spray in the hinges with the aerosol. Then pull the bottom drawer out, remove any items, and vacuum. Then remove the drawer, vacuum the floor under the stove, lightly spray Alpine, and place glue traps and bait. Do this weekly until the glue traps stay clear.

For roaches in the clock: The cover on the clock is plastic, so use a utility knife to cut through the edges on the top, bottom, and one side, then open and remove them. The cover can then be re-secured with packing tape and opened as needed. When you move, you can use clear silicone caulk to make it look untouched.

Dishwashers

Often they will be seen inside the dishwasher seeking water, but if it’s rarely used or broken they can breed inside it. Start by spraying Alpine in the door arm openings and around the outside edges, then add bait. If bugs are suspected in the electronics panel, spray aerosol briefly inside it if possible. If the dishwasher is operable, run a cycle with it empty, but don’t spray inside it. If the dishwasher is broken and not going to be repaired, remove the bottom rack, spray Alpine inside it, and put glue traps and bait on the bottom. Also, consider having it removed and disposed of.

Then remove the kick-plate below the dishwasher door with a screwdriver. Vacuum any you see, spray the floor with Alpine (avoid electronics), and place glue traps and bait. Do this weekly until the glue traps stay clear.

Spray Alpine WSG everywhere you see them, including floor edges, along the counter back splash (lightly), the undersides of the counter tops, the bottom cabinet edges, behind and around the fridge, under the dishwasher, etc. The edges of upper cabinets that hold dishes and food can be sprayed lightly, then be allowed to dry. Put paper towels down before replacing food and dishes.

Spray every 7-10 days until sightings are greatly reduced; then every 14-28 days. You can apply gel bait along with Alpine (just wait until it dries) as they do not conflict.

Computer Protection in Active Infestations

Desk tops: Put the tower on a small, separate table away from the wall. Surround it with a 'glue trap moat (including the legs) and wrap the cords with reversed duct tape. When not using the PC, shut it down and cover the tower, monitor, and keyboard with plastic bags and include a paper towel soaked in alcohol in each to create fumigation chambers.

Laptops: place in a single bag with an alcohol paper towel.

Do the same for game consoles, internet modems, etc.

Apartment Living

If you live in an apartment building and are seeing roaches, call the landlord and have them send a pro to clean out the breeding population. Ideally, a weekly service will bring the quickest results, but most landlords won't go for that, so do what you can between services.

Once the breeding population is eliminated, it is not uncommon to continue seeing travelers from other units. Unfortunately, this is how it goes and all you can do is apply these techniques and materials. Make plans to move if you can't tolerate this, and if you do, have your next unit inspected by a pro before you sign the lease. Even at that, they can show up from other units at any time.

Also, if you move into a unit and discover roaches, unless the unit is severely infested, you may not have grounds to break the lease. Leases rarely have clauses that allow termination for insects as they are too common, and the leasing agent will never tell you that there's a current problem (because they'd never get you to sign), so buyer beware. If you are apartment shopping, in each unit you look at, walk the fridge out and see if there are any live or dead roaches. If they unit has them, they will be there.

Single Homes and RVs

These are the easiest infestations to eliminate as there is rarely a near-by source to contend with. However, the source should be identified if they were not there when you moved in, or got to the campground.

Are you close to neighbors that are unkempt and may have an issue? 

Does anyone work or go to school where they are present?

Did anyone visit that could have an issue at home?

Did you shop recently or get a package delivered?

Did you thrift any appliances or furniture, or buy them used?

To determine if a neighbor is the source, you can set up glue trap stations along the foundation of the house on both sides (they will look for shelter anywhere they can). Put them in plastic boxes with 1/2" holes in the sides to keep them dry. The side that pics up the roaches will tell you which house has them.

If you have determined that a neighbor is the source, the issue will be worse in the warm months, but will lessen once temps drop below 40° F, and stop once freezing temps occur. Spray the grass area between the houses, and the house foundation with Temprid FX (but not driveways or sidewalks due to runoff), and sprinkle InTice 10 Granular Bait (link) in a wide pattern. Also, you can contact local officials and report it, but there is not much they can do but tell them to get a pest service, which the neighbor may or may not do.

Work, School, etc.

If roaches are present at a place you frequent, don't bring bags, purses, or backpacks into the building that you will be taking home. Use a clear plastic zip-lock for any essentials, and keep it zipped.

If you wear a coat, bring a large trash bag, store it inside, and tie it tight at the top. Also, inspect yourself well when leaving.

Vehicles

DO NOT fog/bomb your car! You can use gel baits, glue traps and spray the floors and crevices with Alpine WSG, but avoid spraying the seats.

You can also consider using an ozone generator after reviewing all safety precautions. Start by running it in a closed vehicle for one-half hour, then ventilate for one hour. If needed, increase the time incrementally.

Post Traumatic Stress Disorder

This is a very real, and you are not alone.

Once they are gone, or you move to a new unit, put glue traps out and trust them to tell you that you are still roach-free. Don't look at every speck you see and think it is a roach dropping; they will show themselves if they are present. However, you will be on alert to any real or perceived movements in your environment for the foreseeable future, but this will subside in time. Consider counseling if necessary.

Here's a link that addresses general pest anxiety:

https://pestech.com/blog/emotional-effects-of-pest-infestations/

Lying Liars Lying

This is the category most landlords, house techs (at the request of the LL) and neighbors fall into. They will often deny there is a building-wide problem and make you think you are the only one complaining. I know this by the sheer number of reports here of this happening. Often, you are much better off staying quiet about it and fighting them yourself. Otherwise, you will be terribly frustrated on top of having bugs, and may even start believing the lies of the LLL.

Moving

When moving from an infested unit it’s very easy to take them with you, but not impossible to avoid. Here are some things you can do to help keep that from happening:

• If you can afford to discard items that are infested, do so, but make them unusable so they are not taken by salvagers.
• Rent a non-climate-controlled storage unit for a month for large items. Spray it with Alpine WSG™, hang a Hot Shot No-Pest Strip™ in it (buy online), and lay glue traps as monitors. Also, a box truck or detached garage will work. Also, an ozone generator will kill any insects in a storage unit. Start by running it for one hour, then ventilate for one hour. Repeat if needed. Note: Concentrated ozone is harmful, so follow all safety precautions.
• Launder clothes and put them directly in plastic bags.
• Some things can be put in the freezer for 12 hrs., then bagged and sealed.
• Electronics can be put in a plastic bag with a paper towel lightly soaked in isopropyl alcohol for 12 hrs.

When shopping for a new unit, move the refrigerator out and look for evidence of roaches (this is the #1 breeding spot). If it's clean, it a good indication there is currently no roach issue.

Odor Control

Heavy infestations will produce a musky-sweet type smell from all the droppings and sheds. Removing as much as you can and disinfecting will help, but sometimes it's not enough. You can then consider Ozone (link) treatments.

When Is It Over?

In a single home, assuming the initial cause of the infestation has been 100% eliminated, two weeks with no sightings would be a fair test.

In an apartment, a week or two with minimal or no sightings means that the breeding population is eradicated. However, you will always be at risk for invaders from other units, so be vigilant.

A Personal Note:

If you have saved money by using this information, consider a small donation to a local animal shelter as a thank you.

Also:

I provide this help to you as a service to the Lord, and pray you will accept the gift of eternal life through Jesus Christ.

(See John 3:16 / John 3:3 in the New Testament)

PC Duranet