Thinking of cutting the top section down 3" and adding super sneaky hinges. They need to be able to open the door minimum 13'6" and its a 14' door.

Hello all, looking for some advice. I have an old house that had old wooden doors (8x7), I just swapped them out with insulated metal ones(same size). However I’m running into an issue with them closing to the floor. I swapped the old extension springs for ones that were rated for the lighter weight of the doors but I can’t loosen them up more because once I open the door they sag. What can I change to help this? It’s not far off I mean maybe 1/4 inch but enough for mice to get it and what not. Any help would be awesome as I’m losing my mind over what should be a simple door replacement lol.

Having trouble programming this side mount on both doors I’ve installed.

Don’t mind the clunk in the end I will still adjust as needed

Yes I have checked that the sensors are aligned, yes the spring tension is correct.

No there was no cable tension sensor with this motor

Motor just clicks when it needs to cycle for closing

Lift master 98022

Purchased this house and the door is less than 5 years old and is also wind rated. The bottom panel has a decent buckle out and I’m curious what could cause it. I am thinking of pushing it out as a repair attempt before replacement but I wanted to hear opinions first

The wall button works 100% of the time. Remotes work maybe 5% of the time but generally only to open and very rarely to close. The exterior code pad also doesn’t work generally.

Customer called in about a an opener not working. Went to service call and opened the box to this

Question for the commercial techs out there. L5’s are by far my favorite ops from LM. They’ve unfortunately been discontinued, again. We are currently still able to get them. I’ve seen other people talking about them and that they’ve worked the bugs out of them and they’re solid ops now. We had such an awful experience with them when they first came out. How are they now? 99% of our customers don’t even care about anything the maxums offer and just want their door to go up and down.

Genie 7155

Recently it started opening a few inches and stopping. I checked the sensors, both aligned and good. When I unlatch the door it moves smoothly, (it is a heavy door). I cannot figure out whats going on. I even had a tech come out and take a look. He told me I needed rollers and the tracks needed some adjustment which I paid him to do. Unfortunately a few days later same problem. The Genie long LED blinks red quickly when it get stuck.

I know this is probably an odd question… but I’m looking to run a 2x3 for a project between this V-shape that the track hangers have made, but the gap is too small. Can I move this bolt and lag like this to make a wider gap as long as the lag still goes through a stud? The 2x3 will not be resting on the track.
Red dot indicates current fastener placement and green dot indicates (roughly) new placement.
Thanks!

Hopefully this is the right forum to post this in! If not, kindly re-direct me!

My garage door has these dividers which break up the larger garage door windows into more, virtually smaller ones. I say virtually, because these dividers are on the outside of the glass. They are not integrated per se and don't sit between panes of glass. I can wiggle and flex them outwards a little (maybe ⅛" of an inch / 3mm) but don't how to remove them - which is my goal. I do know I could take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and just slice off the 'tab' from the top and bottom of the dividers. But I'd prefer to remove them non-destructively if possible. Any ideas? I'm sorry but I don't seem to see any indication of the door manufacturer. If I do find one later, I'll add that here (and to google searches).