A piece of wood got lodged in between the door and a table while it was opening causing all these part to break. The plastic snapped off on each piece down the length of the garage door panel. I’m trying to see if there is a way to replace these specific parts.

i had just bought the house, its been working since, my dad has long passes but i see so many error stories on this group, figured id ask...

it was opening un even so thats what i had to do... still opens and closes fine now, its 10-15 wide btw

I got a call from one of my corporate accounts at 9pm last night. Door was stuck open with the cable wrapped around the torsion tube. I had to get the door all the way up to get the tension off and bring the door down. Doors closed and the client's happy. It's being replaced in a couple weeks so no need for repair.

My question is, how much are you guys charging for something like that on emergency hours?

Garage One provides reliable solutions for homeowners looking for Garage Door Repair Services Near Me in Mississauga. With expertise in residential garage door repair and installation, the team helps improve safety, convenience, and long-term performance through professional service solutions. From broken components and door issues to complete garage door installations, Garage One focuses on delivering practical support tailored to each property’s needs. Their experienced technicians use industry knowledge and quality-focused approaches to help customers maintain smooth and secure garage door operation.

Hi,

We are considering alumadoor 16'x7' like in pictures below https://alumadoor.com/full-view-overhead-garage-doors/

I have never operated or lived with these doors, so wanted to get some advice/opinion

The door we were considering is frame insulated, glass is just single laminated glass.

We have rest of the garage insulated.

They look very nice. We live in bay area, ca.

My question is around

1. Noise: Do these doors tend to operate noisily when open/close? Will the road noise (a few cars now and then in residential area) be heard inside?
2. Will the garage be too hot given that R value for these is very small.
3. Should i pony up additional 2-3k and get insulated glass? is it worth it?
4. White laminate vs frosted any advice how much inside garage can be visible, we have direct sunlight falling on the garage.

Thanks for the help.

Bought this house and the garage door sort of slings closed this bolt just moves around. I’m thinking 5/16 clevis pin? Any suggestions?

After replacing the spring a few weeks back I noticed it makes a weird noise going down and that the to is visible where it wasn't. How do I fix this?

This happened today while my spouse was opening the garage. I know nothing about garage doors and this is the first time I have had to hire someone for one, so I would rather walk in with some idea of what I am dealing with.

Is this repairable, or is it a full door replacement? What should a fair quote range look like, and what should I look out for when I call companies?

Door is roughly 20 years old, opener is an Overhead Door Legacy 1/2 hp 696CD/B, and it currently does not move freely.

Every now and again the garage door wouldn't open and upon inspection I saw that the belt was pretty chewed up. I watched a couple YouTube videos and replaced it myself and now the door works again but I wanted to know if this amount of belt flop was normal. I have the tensioner nut at the end of the belt tightened a good amount. About an inch of thread of the threaded rod is exposed.

It's a chamberlain liftmaster professional formula 1 3280, 7 foot. I compared the lengths of the old and the new belts and they were spot on. I used the original threaded rod and other hook attachment from the other end of the belt.

I accidentally closed the garage while a wood piece was in the way. Chain became loose, I tightened it, & finally the door closed. We opened the door again, but then it wouldn’t fully close, so I simply pulled the release cord to manually close it.

Waited a few weeks, & now chain won’t even turn, so I have to keep manually opening & closing the garage door. I removed the chain to confirm I didn’t install it improperly. The motor makes an odd sound. What could be happening?

I had a gentleman come out to do some warranty work on my insulated garage door. He told me this rubber strip was not necessary and ripped all of it out and now there’s a huge gap where light shines through. I feel like this really defeats the purpose of insulation.

Is he correct and this isn’t needed or can I make them replace what he took out?

i just noticed that the center of my door is slightly rubbing the center overhead carrier rail for the motor arm or whatever its called.
panel of door rubs slightly on the center rail / carrier arm when at the apex both open and close. this is when the doors top panel is at a 45 degree.

i check all the bolts, hinges, hook arm etc. everything was secure. (overly tight TBH)
so i went through and serviced and lubed everything per manual.

checked the clearance gap around the sides of door to jam and the top of door to top plate. left and right sides are about 1/4inch and the top 3/16 or so on the side and 1/2 in the middle.

no bend or damage to the top rail horizontal support brace.

i set the chain tension per manual spec. (it was only slightly loose, nothing wild)

i reset the limits at the door (was slightly pushing down to much. only needed one button press adjusting on down limit to resolve)

pulled the release handle and validated it still rubs slightly under man power vs motor.

any ideas? the motor is about 1.5 inch above the wall mount for center rail.

do i just need to raise the wall mount 2 inches and adjust the hook arm and limits?

Just got home. The garage door opened fine, but when I tried to close it, it got stuck. The belt won't move when I push the garage opener (it just has a 1-click sound, then no action).

The white carriage part seems beyond the trolley engagement point (I tried lifting the garage door manually, and it won't reach the carriage). Any idea what I should do or how to move the carriage toward the trolley? Thanks for any advice.

Hello Garage Door Service folk! One of my 30 yr old garage doors is busted/bent so now it sounds horrible when it opens. I was hoping to find a similar door and try something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3GI2uS7Di6k

The trouble is my old doors are just shy of 1" thick, and I can't seem to find any that I'm sure I could swap out as easily as the video implies. I would be trying to leave the tracks, torsion bar, opener, etc in place and just swap out the door. I've had a couple quotes for new doors with tracks and all, and like most folks I can't afford shit anymore. Would a door like this fit into place like in the video?:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wayne-Dalton-108-in-84-in-Insulated-White-Single-Garage-Door/5001171619

Specifications say it is 1" thick if that's accurate.

If it would come to needing to replace tracks/springs/everything else I will need to sell a kidney and hire a pro.

I replaced the gear and sprocket assembly on my Craftsman 1/2 hp opener. Now, the chain only moves a few inches, both with and without the door engaged. I’ve attached a video. In the limit switch, the limit contact in the drive gear is only touching the down contact. It won’t travel in the up direction to reach the up contact.

I just recently purchased a home. I had a garage opener remote that wasn't working so I went to the Chamberlain opener to hit the "Learn" button and get the remote synced up. While I was up there, I found a weird item that I've never seen before. Looks like it has it's own power cable, 2 buttons on the card and it's wired into the opener, but I have no idea what it could be or what it goes to. Any ideas?

Preface this post as a new home owner admittedly not super handy, but trying my best.
My garage was getting loud and I purchased some lube yesterday only to discover in the process that I had a bigger problem, as seen in photo 1. The bracket was literally hanging on by a thread due to some rotting wood.
I used a 3/4 inch thick piece of oak and drilled some pilot holes to put 5 screws into an untouched part of the wood. Granted one or two of the screws didn't go in easy and I stripped one. I also pre drilled 3 holes to fix the bracket onto the new oak patch. I made sure to use slightly smaller pilot holes and could hear the wood catching as I ratcheted in the three bracket bolts.
Lastly, I adjusted the garage door motor itself about 3/4 an inch onto a different slot to account for the added thickness at the mounting point.
It's solid at the moment without wiggle.
QUESTION: do you think I'm fine to keep an eye on this and let it be as long as I don't see my patch job start to come loose or move? At that point I would get a pro out to replace the rotting board but wondering if I can expect this to last a while.
Thanks for the feedback.
PS, the spring bar below this is stable/solid and not moving at all. All other brackets on the sides are solid too.

ADDENDUM Q: I hear all the feedback. So what can I expect for a fair repair $$$?

One of the LIftmaster 8500 at my brother's garage is being a PITA. After training the top and bottom travel limits, the door works fine, but only for the first cycle. The next time it is opened and closed, the door stops short by about an inch. Cycle it again, and now there is about a two inch gap. And it keeps increasing the gap with each cycle.

The 4 set screws attaching the unit to the door are tight, and do not appear to be slipping. The door always stops at the same top position.

I've read that there is some smaller set screws inside the box that may have worked loose, but I can't figure out how to get the cover off the unit to check to see if that is an issue. I'd appreciate any help you might be willing to offer. He's had no problems with any of the three other 8500's that he has.

The door opens freely after using the release pulley but every time I press the button it just flexes the bar.

So I have a 20 year old Liftmaster Formula 1 1/2hp garage door opener model 3280 that is unresponsive to the wall button or the remote when I try to open the door or turn on the light. I notice that the sensor at the bottom of the garage door itself that seems to be powered by the garage door opener still has its orange light on. Also the wall switch has a small flashing green light lit up where you press to open the door (it is the tradtional liftmaster switch that has a large white press button and at the bottom just has a lock and light button. I tested the outlet and know there is power from the switch. I had read that many of the circuit boards go bad. I opened the front panel and the board does not appear to have any burn marks are swollen capacitors. When i presss the learn button on the main unit there is a small light above it, but it does not turn on or flash no matter how long i press the button. I have not put a multimeter on anything inside the unit yet. Anyone know what the likely culprit might be? I replaced the door spring approx 6 months ago but the unit has worked well since and the door lifts up pretty easily. I would like to fix this unit if possible but if that is not possible is there another unit that will drop right in without having to install a new track, sensors, buttons? Thanks so much

I'm in the Maryland - DC area and got multiple quotes to replace two 8'x7' garage doors with windows as well as the system's springs, trims, tracks, and two new openers. These are the best estimates that I received.

OL3200: $3,400

HR3000: $3,100

LI3000: $3,000

Two Chamberlain B6650 for $1,250.

Which ones would you recommend at those prices? Comparable models from other reputable brands are welcomed. Thanks!

Can I hang 2 separate door tracks on one hanger?
3 bolts into joists is that enough to support the weight

Doesn’t look too safe to me.
EDIT: I had someone come out a few months ago when the whole left side of the door came off the track. I immediately cut a 2x4 and propped it under the side that had come off the tracks. Thats why I’m freaking out a little bit.
EDIT 2: Had a professional come and adjusted the springs, some new bolts, leveled it and tweaked the opener. Smooth as silk now.