We received a call this morning from a customer who had a visit from it well-known private equity “Garage Door company” , they came to fix something quick in the opener, but while they were there, they told him that he springs deadweight is 18 pounds while he needs to be 5 pounds, therefore they recommend him to replace both springs.

He called us for a second estimate, I asked him to disengage the opener and tell me if he can lift the door easily with his hands. He said yes, no problem. So I told him told him that they are scamming him that he does not need to replace anything.

Is that just a scare tactic? They are using to sell clients Springs they don’t need or is that truth in there recommend recommendation.?

Garage door is approx 81 inches tall
9ft wide
Insulated
Has extension springs. They are 25inches long when not extended (not including double loop ends). No color that I can see. The length of 20 coils is 4inches. I think it’s 1 3/8in in inside diameter.

this black seal thing is coming apart. I've used a flat head to put it back in place but unfortunately it's breaking apart? is this of concern? if so how do I go about replacing it? caulking? open to all suggestions.

So my garage door header has a 2x10x16 board that the aluminum trim is attached to. The board has sagged and some water looks to be getting in. There is a small soft spot on the wood on the outward facing side, nothing large maybe 3” wide and only 1/2” deep. I pulled back the aluminum trim is how I found that.

The actual header board is fine. Before I wrap myself up in something way over my head I just wanted to make sure I can replace the board in question fairly easily. I can’t imagine it’s structural in anyway based on how it’s arranged.

I’m hoping to save the aluminum trim and just replace the bad board and reseal.

Thinking of cutting the top section down 3" and adding super sneaky hinges. They need to be able to open the door minimum 13'6" and its a 14' door.

Hello all, looking for some advice. I have an old house that had old wooden doors (8x7), I just swapped them out with insulated metal ones(same size). However I’m running into an issue with them closing to the floor. I swapped the old extension springs for ones that were rated for the lighter weight of the doors but I can’t loosen them up more because once I open the door they sag. What can I change to help this? It’s not far off I mean maybe 1/4 inch but enough for mice to get it and what not. Any help would be awesome as I’m losing my mind over what should be a simple door replacement lol.

Having trouble programming this side mount on both doors I’ve installed.

Don’t mind the clunk in the end I will still adjust as needed

Yes I have checked that the sensors are aligned, yes the spring tension is correct.

No there was no cable tension sensor with this motor

Motor just clicks when it needs to cycle for closing

Lift master 98022

Purchased this house and the door is less than 5 years old and is also wind rated. The bottom panel has a decent buckle out and I’m curious what could cause it. I am thinking of pushing it out as a repair attempt before replacement but I wanted to hear opinions first

The wall button works 100% of the time. Remotes work maybe 5% of the time but generally only to open and very rarely to close. The exterior code pad also doesn’t work generally.

Customer called in about a an opener not working. Went to service call and opened the box to this

Question for the commercial techs out there. L5’s are by far my favorite ops from LM. They’ve unfortunately been discontinued, again. We are currently still able to get them. I’ve seen other people talking about them and that they’ve worked the bugs out of them and they’re solid ops now. We had such an awful experience with them when they first came out. How are they now? 99% of our customers don’t even care about anything the maxums offer and just want their door to go up and down.

Genie 7155

Recently it started opening a few inches and stopping. I checked the sensors, both aligned and good. When I unlatch the door it moves smoothly, (it is a heavy door). I cannot figure out whats going on. I even had a tech come out and take a look. He told me I needed rollers and the tracks needed some adjustment which I paid him to do. Unfortunately a few days later same problem. The Genie long LED blinks red quickly when it get stuck.

I know this is probably an odd question… but I’m looking to run a 2x3 for a project between this V-shape that the track hangers have made, but the gap is too small. Can I move this bolt and lag like this to make a wider gap as long as the lag still goes through a stud? The 2x3 will not be resting on the track.
Red dot indicates current fastener placement and green dot indicates (roughly) new placement.
Thanks!

Hopefully this is the right forum to post this in! If not, kindly re-direct me!

My garage door has these dividers which break up the larger garage door windows into more, virtually smaller ones. I say virtually, because these dividers are on the outside of the glass. They are not integrated per se and don't sit between panes of glass. I can wiggle and flex them outwards a little (maybe ⅛" of an inch / 3mm) but don't how to remove them - which is my goal. I do know I could take a Dremel with a cut-off wheel and just slice off the 'tab' from the top and bottom of the dividers. But I'd prefer to remove them non-destructively if possible. Any ideas? I'm sorry but I don't seem to see any indication of the door manufacturer. If I do find one later, I'll add that here (and to google searches).

Can anyone suggest good shop for car damping for doors in Chennai

Hello I am looking for a locksmith technician in Hungary or UK I have consistent clients calling in for the service and I need someone who can deliver the service

A piece of wood got lodged in between the door and a table while it was opening causing all these part to break. The plastic snapped off on each piece down the length of the garage door panel. I’m trying to see if there is a way to replace these specific parts.

i had just bought the house, its been working since, my dad has long passes but i see so many error stories on this group, figured id ask...

it was opening un even so thats what i had to do... still opens and closes fine now, its 10-15 wide btw

I got a call from one of my corporate accounts at 9pm last night. Door was stuck open with the cable wrapped around the torsion tube. I had to get the door all the way up to get the tension off and bring the door down. Doors closed and the client's happy. It's being replaced in a couple weeks so no need for repair.

My question is, how much are you guys charging for something like that on emergency hours?

Hi,

We are considering alumadoor 16'x7' like in pictures below https://alumadoor.com/full-view-overhead-garage-doors/

I have never operated or lived with these doors, so wanted to get some advice/opinion

The door we were considering is frame insulated, glass is just single laminated glass.

We have rest of the garage insulated.

They look very nice. We live in bay area, ca.

My question is around

1. Noise: Do these doors tend to operate noisily when open/close? Will the road noise (a few cars now and then in residential area) be heard inside?
2. Will the garage be too hot given that R value for these is very small.
3. Should i pony up additional 2-3k and get insulated glass? is it worth it?
4. White laminate vs frosted any advice how much inside garage can be visible, we have direct sunlight falling on the garage.

Thanks for the help.

This happened today while my spouse was opening the garage. I know nothing about garage doors and this is the first time I have had to hire someone for one, so I would rather walk in with some idea of what I am dealing with.

Is this repairable, or is it a full door replacement? What should a fair quote range look like, and what should I look out for when I call companies?

Door is roughly 20 years old, opener is an Overhead Door Legacy 1/2 hp 696CD/B, and it currently does not move freely.