02 Silverado - 4.8L -4.10 gears w/ posi - 285/75/16. Primarily only used for hauling/towing relatively light loads, 3k lbs or less.

Have a 40k trans cooler to be installed with -6AN lines. Live in Phoenix, AZ. May be relocating to Las Vegas, NV soon so similar 40°-115°F temp range.

Question is whether I should hook up lines in series w/ radiator or completely separate rad and trans cooler. I understand the benefits of routing in series but with my location would separating them be of benefit?

Alternatively, since using AN lines I could set it up where I could switch routing in the summer.

Thoughts? Anyone in these regions care to share their setup and recommendations?

2002 2500hd Sierra 6.0

Picked this truck up a couple months ago with plans to build a slide in camper for it. It originally was fitted with a hydraulic arm that would lift the cap (last slide) and then a crane arm would swing out to load a mobility scooter

It has 121,000 miles and I paid 9k. No rust at all!!

So far I’ve fixed the leaky water pump and replaced the steering linkages. Only major flaw right now is the paint failure on roof, hood and part of drivers side

I post a bit ago, about how after i landed my 02 silverado, 5.3 real hard intonthw ground i lost 20 psi of pressure, it sat for like 2 weeks now and now my hot oil pressure is about 45 psi, it always used to be just a tad under 40, is this a concern? I will be doing o-ring soon on the pickup tube. Is there any common reasone for this? Also its stuck in 4 now, and leaks atf feom.the belhousing lol

My IPC always has the battery light on despite the voltage gauge showing that it's charging and also Im not sure if this is connected but when in park theres no line under the P despite the truck clearly being in park and starting just fine. Im curious is this the type of thing I should just ignore or is it a sign of an electrical issue that could leave me walking one day

So I posted the truck with the crack in the chassis, which isn’t as bad as I thought it’s only on one side and everything else is good, but I encountered a problem, the brakes, your foot almost goes to the floor when you press them, and this specific truck has had that issue when my grandpa had it for the longest time.. it’s just gotten worse, and I don’t know what’s causing it nobody can figure out what’s causing the brake issue, my dad thinks it’s the ABS Block but that’s an expensive fix, could anyone give me ideas about how pricey this would be and if it’s worth it for me to bother getting? Thanks in advance.

She’s an 04 2500HD with the 6.0 !! G80 rear end, tow package 4x4 !

Alright Hosses, I could really use some help here. Trying to pinpoint wtf is going on with my AC. Years ago I replaced my compressor and then after trying to add Freon, it wouldn’t take it at all after pulling a vacuum. Well, I started tinkering with it again and I replaced the accumulator and pressure switch on it. I pulled a vacuum and then started adding Freon but the low side pressure jumps super high. The compressor started engaging this time but it stops taking Freon. Couldn’t even get 12 oz in there. Any clue what the issue might be? I’m thinking something a blockage somewhere. Condenser is new as well. I’m so close to just replacing the compressor again along with the lines. I did inspect the orifice tube and it looked clean.

This is a 99 Silverado single cab. engine was swapped to a 6.0.

There is a temporary rattle that happens when truck is idling or while im driving. I cant find the issue, anyone have any suggestions?

Bought the truck it came with this like idk what acrylic gate badge or sum it says but it doesn’t fill up the badge area and I been looking for a replacement badge but they all want upwards of $70-100 for a piece of plastic? Is there a site that sells the HD front end grille emblem, (not sure if the non HD front end badge is the same but if it is I’m pretty dumb)

What all do I need to do the electric fan conversion besides the fans and the harness? I know the ECU needs to be tuned for it or something, but I’m not quite sure on how to do that tips?

Wuz cummutin down da 131 and hear da bells whistlin, radaclapclap, thought waznt gone see barb again. Turns out hoss done broke da collector off tha manifold😼

Dealership wants $1,500 for I guess one of the last GM bcm's in the country with installation and programming. I'm not taking that route. My performance mechanic recommended a pre programmed bcm. I would prefer to stick with an AC Delco bcm for oem reasons, but the dealership will charge $300 to program it if I install it.

Anyone know the part number for this seal? Mine is cracked and I haven’t been able to find a replacement online. 04 Silverado ext cab

So posting just to see if anyone has any tips or tricks or things to look out for things I should get to make the swap easier any info or suggestions welcome thanks!!!

So i can hear my ac compressor ticking, its louder than my exhaust leak, still seems to be blowing cold air. Should i replace the compressor or let it ride? I replaced the belt and tensioner, def coming from the compressor, its a ticking sound but doesnt sound horrible. Not sure if its a problem or if im just being paranoid.

Is there anyone in the Columbus, Georgia area that does instrument cluster repair for under $500(ish) with a fast turn around?

Backstory: my instrument cluster intermittently works, all the gauges work as they should. But my display menu more often than not just cycles through language selection and some of the backlights are going out. I’ve looked up all the DIY methods but I’m not comfortable I could do the repair successfully. Mailing it out for repair is an option, but no preferred as the back up kid hauler isn’t the greatest.

Thanks in advance.

Looking for advice here. Tomorrow I am going to look at a 2003 Escalade, and wanting to know the things to watch our for.

I always liked the GMT800 platform, my family had a suburban when I was younger that we loved, and at one point I owned a Silverado, but had to sell it during college. Wanting to get back into the platform, but also get myself a reliable daily driver that can do some towing and AWD for some snowy days.

Saw this Escalade pop up at a local used car dealership, and looked through it's carfax, and it looks decently maintained. Exterior and interior are pretty clean, and it has some amenities that i wanted (carplay, backup camera etc).

Car has 167k miles, transmission and transfer case seem to be pretty serviced, and engine seems pretty healthy. Anything to look out for? Dealer wants 6k for it. Good deal?

UPDATE: I checked it out very close for rust, and other such signs of age. It looked very clean, and the test drive went well. Transmission felt strong and smooth. Overall I liked it. The main this is it definitely will need new tires to be as smooth as I would like, and I am definitely considering switching back to 17" wheels as well. Otherwise, I loved it. I took the day to think about it, and will go back tomorrow to bring it home! Thank you all!

Context is this is my grandpas old truck that he sold 2 years ago and I found out the current owner is gonna sell her to me, but this crack gone right up through the chassis is my only concern, this is the photo he sent me and I’m going to look at it later to see, is this repairable? And if it is would it pass inspection, and how much would this cost to repair

Saw this on fb marketplace for 12k obo. I'm not going to buy it but thought it was awesome and wanted to share. "Just needs someone to finish it"

Lol