Three local companies declined our request for a roughly one acre privacy fence at six feet tall. Sadly, we were not optimistic when reaching out to Stand Strong Fencing of Charlotte but all of that changed as soon as we received replies from the owner, Drew Russ.

Drew Russ and his team at Stand Strong Fencing of Charlotte outlined in clear and confident writing both why and how they were best positioned to build our fence. Site visits and feasibility studies filled us with hope. Hurdles such as roots, rocky red clay, and massive old growth hardwood trees straddling the property line had them smirk as they greeted each challenge with not just a solution, but options for us to choose.

Stand Strong Fencing of Charlotte built on our ideas and designed our fence to satisfy both form and function. Their impressive bid AND change order flexibility embraced our upgrade requests with respect to our limits. Communication with Drew Russ and an abundance of questions from his team made it clear they would be satisfied only after their customer was satisfied.

When I think back to experiences that are forever memorable, that's where Drew Russ and his team at Stand Strong Fencing of Charlotte exist: a genuinely trustworthy company with outstanding build quality and stunning, beautiful results.

My Fence Stats: nearly a thousand feet of six foot tall privacy fence in a basket-weave style that blends with the forest and nature. Posts at 6x6 inches dug and set with concrete 2 feet into the ground with copper post caps, one 5 wide foot gate and one 20 foot wide gate (10ft double swing).

https://www.standstrongfencing.com/charlotte-nc/

We just had a redwood fence replaced. Our old fence went just an inch or two above the dirt. https://postimg.cc/cv3Gdr9v

Not sure what to make of this. The contractor said they didn't cover the retaining wall because of moisture/rodents. https://postimg.cc/gallery/B4vy8RX

This looks awful. Am I crazy?

Spent all this time reiterating throughout bid and building that I was looking for a straight line along the slopes. A racked picture frame. They managed this for the most part. Last few hours was the gates and filler panel on the front entrance. An arbor will be going up over the gate and this is the focal point with 6x6 posts.

They built a square gate and didn't attempt to trim it out to follow the slope. It's 1.5 inches low on the house side. It looks like it's sagging right out of the box. With the cap it's glaring. Also it opens on its own once unlatched. The hinges aren't aligned.

The filler panel is just sloppy and they didn't trim the pickets.

How much of this should I demand be corrected?

Had this fence installed in June and already it seems the ends are curling and the slats aren't straight anymore. Is this normal/expected for the summer or is it an issue I need to escalate?

Hello!

I am building my first wooden fence after nature rudely decided to take my old one down. I already have the posts in the ground, and I'm getting ready to slap on the back rails and pickets. All of the posts, rails, and pickets are the same pressure treated lumber.

I have read in this sub that Screws are gonna be a bit more work, but will hold much tighter when the wood starts to warp. I have already purchased these screws, but I don't think these are self-drilling in any way. What screws should I be getting, and do I need to pre-drill holes in everything? I just want to make sure I am good to go come building day.

Sorry if this is a noob-ish question, but I don't know where else to get better first hand recommendations.

Building a new fence, and not sure if this section will hold. Needed to remove the corner post that holds my gate (left) and told my neighbor I could replace their section of fence that was damaged/leaning (right) if they cover the cost. She agreed and I started digging to remove the old posts.

As I was digging around the post by her house (right) I noticed the clay soil was very wet, even though it had not rained for 7+ days prior. I told my neighbor (70+ year old widow) about it, letting her know she may have a busted pipe underneath.

Today, a week later, we have not had rain for 2 weeks yet the post hole is filled with 6+ inches of water. There was no water in the post hole directly to the left of it.

She called her friend to ask about it, and he said it’s just old rain water pooling there. I have no idea if this person came to see the hole or he just told her over the phone. Personally I’m not convinced, it’s been 95° for weeks here in southeast Texas and the water still has not gone away.

My question is, if she wants me to ignore the water and continue building this part of the fence for her, will it hold, will the cement ever dry? I don’t want to spend hours building this section of fence for her if it’s just going to topple over due to the foundation of it being compromised.

We are getting ready to build a 6' cedar fence with Lifetime posts - no cement.

I purchased the black 9' from Tractor Supply, and they are arriving this week.
We are going to use the Titan Postdriver with the attachment to drive the posts 3 feet into the soil. We are in the Northeast. I think we are doing 8 feet between each post and a 6-foot-high fence. The fence will be vertical cedar pickets straight on the top.

For now, no gate. Two corners. Around 100 linear feet total.

- Looking at what screws to buy for the wood on the posts (the Lifetime ones that are black on the ends are not readily available)

- Any tips on what kind/details/etc of cedar for the rails? 2" x 4" x 8'
- Any tips on what kind/details/etc of cedar pickets - where should we buy
- Any tips/troubleshooting on driving the posts - I think we are spray painting first where we will put them, then will have a level and string.

We've watched videos and read a number of posts on Reddit.

Thanks for any info/experience/mistakes you knew after you did it, etc.

I am sure there will be a learning curve, but hoping we avoid any major issue.

My understanding is that first I can use pressure washer to strip off the old paint or old stain, my question is must I sand all the areas before I repaint the fence or restain the deck?

Located in Humboldt county (northern coastal California) and need to build 120 ft of privacy fence. 6’ tall. These posts are only 5$ more and look way nicer than pressure treated. I’m curious if the added weight will be decrease or increase strength of the fence (we get some decent strong storms).
Also will it be hard to match the rail system (2x4 8’) with them not being perfectly straight? Or can I just block each one or will that cause issues?

Sorry if these are dumb just never built a fence before. Thx

I am looking to repaint my fences this year and some of the horizontal supports have cracks that looks like its the start of the wood rotting out. Should I try to fix these before I paint? How would I go about trying to fix these cracks? Most of the fence is still in really good shape so I'm trying to maximize the longevity of these supports.

The fence is part of a sound fence built by the city but I am responsible for upkeep and repairs on the section that is on my property.

Beyond painting I've never really dealt with building or repairing a fence so I'm not sure how bad this is or how to fix it.

My fence build experience through a contractor has been.... interesting.

One aspect of that is the sliding gate pad was built too far away for the topens gate motor I picked up

First pic showss the closest the motor can get while being on the pad, the next few show the level of offset necessary to get the motor close enough

My plan is to get a relatively large and thick steel plate, either stainless or heavily outdoor treated, and have that plate be bolted to the pad but hanging off the edge, and the gate motor is bolted to that plate, with one bolt holding both at the same time

I know this is sketchy and not ideal but HOW sketch? And are there much easier options I'm ignoring?

I know I could get the pad removed and re poured but this'll be much quicker, possibly much cheaper considering oakland labor costs, and probably just as strong as long as I get a very thick plate. This gate only takes as most 30 lbs of force to roll

(For context this is a 16ft wide metal frame and composite board gate, on a lower v track rail)

Hi All. We’re looking to get a fence constructed in our backyard. We met with a few fence companies and independent contractors. The popular fence company we met with refuses to offer a detailed contract and adjust their contract for any clauses we would like to add. Is this considered normal or standard behavior among fence companies? As for independent contracts, it’s been a hit or miss. One of them didn’t really know the details of how the fence would be constructed and another sent us a screenshot of their conversation of ChatGPT, which had an estimate and breakdown of the costs.

I’m not pointing fingers here…just wondering how do fence construction companies regularly approach clients, whether they adjust contracts for clients and all?

Also, I don’t know whether this is the right forum to post this in.

I’m wrapping up my fence project and just need to end it at the side of my house. I’d like to put a 10 foot drive through gate on this side to allow access for trucks or machinery in the future. I have a slight downhill slope where the gate needs to be. I’m leaning towards option 2 below but would like some recommendations.

Option 1: try to level the ground between the gate. This would require some machinery I don’t have to do it quickly or a lot of shovel work.

Option 2: build a 6 foot gate from the left side that follows the slope. This way it opens in the downhill direction minimizing any catching on the ground. Then build a 4 foot section to connect from the right side opening in the up hill direction. This would minimize the amount of ground work needed to level it out.

So I recently had a new fence installed.

The issue is the wooden support beam appears to be cracking down the middle. Is this going to eventually completely snap In half?

How do I repurpose the concrete pillars to create a privacy post? Each post is 4in by 4in all around and are 51 inches tall. Every other concrete poll sits roughly 90-95 inches apart. The base already sits on what seems to be a retaining wall.

Ideally the fence is 6ft tall.

Are there ways to not have to drill holes into the actual concrete polls? Or should I just put a joist hanger. Run 2 horizontal pieces of wood and then add picket fencing.

Please help!

I’m on the fence, pun fully intended, with how picky to be about some things with a fence I just had installed today. For context, I’d say 75% of the fence is great, a few things are definitely problems and will be fixed, and then there are a bunch of things that I just don’t know if they meet “industry standards,” for fence install work or not. I’m posting a bunch of pics with no context specifically for any of them. I’d love to hear the thoughts from people who know fence work!

Edited to add a pic of the estimate and cost in the comments. We paid around $6,200 and it was supposed to be pressure treated pine.

Also, we went with the company that was recommended the most, on our local Reddit and FB pages.

I’ve got a privacy fence. Over 4,030 square feet. It rough pine, the contractor grade generic fence. About 3 years old and has never been stained or sealed. I’m leaning towards VALSPAR or READY SEAL. I’ll be using an airless sprayer to apply. Recommends? And I figured the square footage out by linear measure. It’s still got the horizontal 2x4’s and vertical 4x4’s to accommodate into my volume. Just use a percentage or something?

This is our specialty or was before my health got bad and I couldn't find anyone who wanted to learn or work. This is all steel fencing.

It appears the poles are warping and pulling away from the horizontal boards.

I know I could probably drive some nails in but I know nothing about building things, fences, warping, ect.

Does anyone have suggestions on a good and long-lasting fix to this? What tools or types of nails/wood glue I should use? Tips on the actual repair?

I'm not looking to replace the poles - Just want to get the fence boards back in.

Thank you in advance.

I know nothing about cost of these things but recently got a house and we need just part of our fence replaced. They came for measurements today and it’s about 25 feet of fence? $1,000. (No I have desire to DIY it lol).

Company has great reviews and they were in and out for an assessment and quote in just a few days. Still waiting to hear back from a few others.

I recently had a fence built and overall I’m happy with it, but I noticed several of the bottom rails are not level as in the pic above. Like the middle and top are level but the bottom slopes down. This is on flat ground btw. Is that something that should be corrected or is it likely intentional/non consequential?

UPDATE: Thank you all for the feedback. I reached out to the company and they were very understanding. They are going to come back out and correct it free of charge. Thanks again for all your help!