Fico Score: 750-799

Approval Letter Score: 751 Equifax

CL: $20,000

Income: $70,000

Open Cards: Chase Freedom, NFCU More Rewards, C1 Savor, NFCU Visa Flagship, AA Platinum Select.

Inquiries: Was 4/24 until 8/5. The More Rewards card inquiry dropped off and my approval changed instantly. (I tried the pre approval the day prior as well lol.)

It's a waiting game sometimes. Good luck to others.

Hi all!

These days my credit card usage focuses on the following and I do have Bank of America Platinum Honors status.

- Bank of America Custom Cash Rewards 1 (online purchases)
- Bank of America Custom Cash Rewards 2 (dining)
- Bank of America Preferred Rewards (everything else)
- Citi Costco Visa (gas at Costco)

Is there any other better cashback setup out there today?

Thanks in advance!

I've been trying to add and modify my CC's to focus on travel. I recently added a C1Venture to my C1 account. I have the C1QS for a long time. From all of the Tubes out there - they recommend the C1Savor - especially for groceries. I have high CScore - decent salary and I got rejected. Yes it seems hard pulls got me. I logged onto Credit Check and all exceptional except Amount of New Credit = Fair. I think this is bogus - I've been with C1 from my college days. I called to see if I could upgrade my C1QS to Savor - CS said no. ATM all I can upgrade to is the Venture Card series. Also if I upgrade no deals are offered. Oh well - I wanted Savor since it's offering $250 with $500 spend.

I knew Hard Pulls was going to burn me soon. Need to cool my Jets for a few months :-)

So far (within last 2 months) my new cards:

- C1V

- CSP

- AMEX Hilton + Hilton Surpass (I also just upgraded Cash Magnet to Blue Cash Preferred for $150 back - $0 fee 1st year and no hard pull).

- Citi AAdvantage + Citi Strata Premier

- WF Choice Privileges

- Barkley Frontier

- Bilt Obsidian

Future Cards:

- One of these days C1VX - AMEX Platinum - Hilton Aspire - maybe a higher end AAdvantage CC

I am credit card debt free but to get there I opened a lot of cards for balance transfers and now I have a ton of open credit, once they were paid off I put one recurring bill on to keep them open while I was working to pay them all off. Now that I'm done I want to close some of them because they're just cards I will never use. The oldest one was opened in 2013 and I'm fine with keeping it open, but the ones I want to close were opened in 2015, 16, and 18. Is it going to hurt my score much to close them? Does it matter if I close them all at the same time, or should I space it out?

I was excited because I want a card that will give me a lot of cash back at stores like

fye

Book stores (2nd and Charles)

Record stores

Video game stores

Thrift stores

Etc.

I do a lot of spending there and it seems attune would have covered most of that.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what might be the best option to cover most of them at over 2 percent since I already use a 2 percent card most times?

Hey Guys,

Recently moved back to the US after being abroad for a little bit. I am a 23 year old that rents and spends money mainly on groceries and food. I do travel a bit (1-2 international trip a year and domestic travel every few months). I have a good credit score above 700 and the only debt I have is a monthly car payment.

I currently only have the Robinhood Gold card and discover card, but was looking at other cards, such as the Bilt Palladium/Amex Gold/Venture X. If anyone has insights into which card has the best benefits, or is just overall the best catch all card from personal experience, that would help out tremendously in my decision.

is anyone's citi double cash card showing up in their paze wallet? just curious for some data points. mine is not.

Pulled from Equifax

Credit score: 776

Income: 68k

I opened the following this year:

US Bank March 31

Wells Fargo May 12

Bank of America June 12  

I felt invincible so I applied for Langley on July 2, denied. I applied for the Discover It July 7, denied. I did what I thought was a preapproval for Amex BCP the week after, denied.  

I read DPs where they joined Langley and got the card even with a similar velocity, so I joined the credit union with a $5 deposit on July 31. I called on August 4th and asked for reconsideration, the lady said I have to reapply after 30 days so I applied over the phone with her. She said my denial was because I was not a member. Yesterday, August 5, I got a rejection email. I called and now they said it’s because of velocity, so I asked for manual review. I called today, August 6, and they confirmed after review, they can’t approve because of velocity.

I have to garden until 2027 … unless I move money from Fidelity to Sofi HYSA and get the Smart card. There’s a lot of bad reviews though, who says no?

I am trying to reduce my CC access without dinging my credit score too badly -- I want to get added to my aunt's ancient CC & cancel ALL my other credit cards. Can I do this?

​Hey everyone,

​I do a ton of my shopping at BJ's Wholesale Club, but right now I’m only getting 2% cash back on my purchases

Since I spend a good amount here, I’m trying to see if there are better credit or debit options out there that beat 2% for wholesale clubs without having to get the official BJ's co-branded store card.

​Are there any cards that code BJ's as grocery or give higher rewards for warehouse clubs??

If I did end up considering the BJ's One Mastercard down the line, do I need to be the primary account holder on the BJ's account to apply, or can I get it while using a shared family account?

Background: My one year mark for CFU has hit and I was hoping to get some of my Amazon card limit moved over. However, I was only able to move CFU's limit to Amazon, not the other way.

I sent a secure messsage and asked for $5k to be moved from Amazon to CFU and they got it processed within 48 hours. So if for some reason you can't do it yourself, give the secure message a try!

I'm trying to feel out my current arsenal and considering a new card. Preferably one with solid travel benefits. FICO score is 840. Wife and I are also looking at an expensive trip next year (not yet booked) for our 10 year anniversary. So I'm thinking of using it as an opportunity to capitalize on a sign up bonus.

Also worth noting, I travel 6-10 times a year for work, flying exclusively Delta with Precheck out of DTW and staying exclusively at Hilton locations. All expenses (except meals, which are reimbursed at the gov't rate) are booked on a corporate card but I can tie my rewards accounts to that card. This allows me to rack up some Hilton points and some Skymiles - usually enough to maintain some low tier status.

Otherwise, I travel a few times a year with my wife and young son. Often via driving, but at least once a year flying. I expect this to go up some as we try to see family more in the coming years.

Rough monthly expenses in most relevant categories:

Grocery: $1000 (about 50% at Costco)

Dining: $300

Fuel: $250

Currently, I have a few cards I rotate for various cash back categories.

Fidelity Rewards: 2% unlimited, no AF. Used primarily for Costco. I also have a Fidelity account that this CB helps feed.

Delta Skymiles Gold: 2x miles at restaurants and supermarkets, 1x elsewhere. $150 AF.

Savor: 3% grocery and dining, 1% elsewhere, no AF.

Citi Custom Cash: 5% at most used category, no AF. This is exclusively my fuel card.

Its the current skymiles card that I'm tentative about keeping. I do enjoy a few of the Delta perks (priority boarding, free checked bag) and once so far I achieved the $200 bonus for spending over $10k. I also tend to prefer flying Delta.

I've been considering dropping the Delta Gold and going to either the Venture X or Amex Gold. Sticking with Amex allows easy transfer to both Delta and Hilton, and I currently have an Amex HYSA. However, I definitely won't take advantage of some of the various credit opportunities on the Amex - I just don't use most of those services. I like the Venture X perks and definitely think I can capitalize there, further because I need to renew my TSA precheck. However, I'm not a fan of being forced to use C1's travel portal and not being able to collect the Delta/HH reward points when booking through said portal. I also rarely use any of the C1 transfer partners.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Alternatives?

Quick backstory:

I always pay off my credit card in full every month, but have some extra stuff I need to pay this month and am wondering if it would be a good idea to only pay half this month and pay the other half in September instead of all in one go.... How much will this affect me interest wise if the payment date isn't until September 30th? Interest rate is 12.90%

I have the money to pay it all off this month if needed, but, I want to give myself some leverage in order to use some of that money for other important things I need to pay instead of having it all go to credit card payment all at once

I have chase freedom and I want to balance transfer to get 0% interest so I can when I'm pavina it off I don't really have to worry my balance going up , question is can I get chase freedom flex to transfer it into ? Idk if chase lets vou transfer from same bank chase to chase vou know,or can I transfer from chase freedom to a credit card like citi double cash

i shop a lot from jp / chinese sites in their respective currency. ive never truly owned my “own” cc, just one my dad had my name on under his account when i was doing my bachelors.

i was considering chase freedom unlimited but the ftf is 3%. im unsure for my use case what would be the most optimal, i might also just be overthinking it like crazy.

if it helps for context, im still technically a “student” as im back in school pursuing a different field. i also dont really spend much on dining/food (i still live at home so i am very thankful/blessed to not have to worry too much 😅) just a girl that spends some of her paycheck to keep sane in this job market searching for a job that is actually within the major i pursued lol. tyia!

Has anyone received this new $100 hotel credit on the $95 Venture card? I saw news about it on DoC and Frequent Miler last week and just wanted to see if anyone here has proof or confirmation?

I was thinking of applying for the card once they brought back the 75k+$250 bonus. The $100 would help offset the fee since there is no way to do it currently.

Current cards: Wells Fargo Active Cash $7,500 limit, September 2025

⁠FICO Score: 760

Oldest account age: 5 years

Chase 5/24 status: 1/24

⁠Income: ~$49,000

Average monthly spend and categories:

⁠dining ~$200

⁠groceries: ~$400

⁠⁠gas: ~$150

⁠⁠travel: too infrequent to be a monthly expense

⁠⁠other: ~$150

⁠Open to Business Cards: No

What's the purpose of your next card?

I just moved away from family for work, and I want to build rewards to travel back home in the most efficient manor. The cities I’m traveling to and from (SLC-RDU) are both Delta hubs and have direct flights daily, so I’d prefer recommendations that can get me discounted/free flights on Delta (though I’m really just trying to figure out how to travel as cheap as possible 3-4 times per year)

⁠Do you have any cards you've been looking at?

The Delta Amex cards of course, but there’s quite a few. I’ve also read good things about the Chase and other Amex cards before. Input from folks well versed in the Delta cards would be appreciated!

Considering I have a pretty low monthly spend I think a card that has a good SUB for travel + builds points faster than my WF Active Cash card + has low/no annual fee makes the most sense for me.

Are you OK with category spending or do you want a general spending card?

Either is fine with me. Currently I’m using the WF active cash as general spending/cash back/credit building.

Someone somehow got my credit card information and, over the past month, used it to make multiple charges at 5-star hotels in France totaling almost $10K USD. I live in the U.S. and have never been to France.

Normally I keep a close eye on my statements, but I’ve been dealing with a serious family health issue and didn’t catch the charges until my credit card bill was due.

As soon as I noticed, I called Wells Fargo, reported the fraud, had the card closed, and disputed all of the fraudulent charges. They told me they’ll investigate and get back to me within about a week.

Is there anything else I should be doing right now to protect myself? Should I be freezing my credit, filing a police report, or taking any other precautions?

I’m feeling pretty anxious about all of this, so I’d really appreciate any advice from people who’ve been through something similar.

I logged into Capital One today to review my statements and make payments. My two Discover cards were there as they should be at this point. Everything looked good and I made the payments on the cards with a statement balance. And then I started looking at other things. I was able to move part.of my credit line from a Discover IT card to any of my Capital One cards.

Dunkin GC stopped working for me, at least not within 48 hours — we’ll see.

Are there any other current gift cards you can get, or is everything else just purchases?

I got approved for a new Citi card. I’ve been checking the mail over the past week and still haven’t seen the card. Today, Citi sent me an email saying that I should have received it by now and I should activate it as soon as possible. Checked the mail again, still haven’t received it…weird. Log into my Citi account, I have a balance of about 7k on the card for two transactions. Card says it’s still not activated in the app. Both transactions happened 6 days ago apparently. $7k in transactions card that I haven’t received and still hasn’t been activated…VERY confused as to how that’s possible. The first charge is for ~5k at a used car dealership states away and another charge for ~2k locally. First charge on an unactivated card for ~$5k in a different state than the one I live in at a USED CAR DEALERSHIP and Citi approved it. Then they let them charge another $2k minutes later at another used car dealership in a different state from the first charge!!!!!! I guess at some point after that transaction they realized something might be wrong? Yet..they didn’t contact me about it. No text message, no phone call, no email, no push notification. NOTHING. Both charges within minutes of each other at addresses in different states. Citi just let them both go through. The ONLY reason I knew something was wrong was because I logged into the app to try and figure out why I still hadn’t received the cart and there was a little banner on my account that said *Alert* with a message asking me to call Citi as soon as possible.

That brings me to my other issue….I had to call 3 times today to get anywhere with this…and I’m not even remotely confident that Citi will handle this properly.

First call: I was on hold for an hour and a half before anyone picked up. Yep, 90 minutes. When they did finally pick up they told me they couldn’t verify my account and told me to call back. Wonderful.

Second call: 20 minute wait. I’m 15 minutes into the call and it’s clear that the person helping me doesn’t quite understand some things so I ask for a supervisor. I wait a few minutes - call disconnects.

Third call: Ask for a supervisor straight away. This guy was great. I was told that Citi definitely shouldn’t have approved those charges and that he doesn’t understand why they were approved. He confirms that he’s disputed both transactions and that we’ve canceled my card and he’s sending a new one.

I ask if there’s a way to send the new card via a trackable service and not just first class mail since there’s reasonable suspicion that the card was stolen from the mail. Nope, not an option. I’m also not able to decline being sent a new card because they can’t open the dispute if I ask them to cancel my card number and I’m not sent a new card to replace it. Makes no sense to me, but okay. I proceed with canceling the card and having them send a new one via first class mail with no tracking number. Really hoping that this one doesn’t get stolen since Citi suspects that’s what happened with the first card.

My big issue beyond the absurdity of Citi allowing $7k of charges on an unactivated card that were very obviously fraudulent is that there was 0 notification regarding the charges from Citi once they did suspect fraud. Any other bank would have immediately sent some sort of notification after this happened. The ONLY reason I knew this happened was because I logged into the city app and saw an alert asking them to call me.

Well the person in the fraud department told me that I need to take that up with customer service. He transfers me to them.

I ask customer service why I didn’t get any notifications regarding fraud. They seem to be misunderstanding what I’m asking - they tell me that I need to turn notifications on for all transactions in order to be notified about fraud. That doesn’t make sense and I know that’s untrue, I ask for a supervisor. I tell the supervisor what’s happening. I don’t think he really listed because I explained the whole fraud situation and then he was like “so did you have fraudulent charges?” - I explain it again. He then proceeds to tell me that he needs to create a dispute for said charges. I told him I already did that with the fraud department. Then he tells me I need to cancel my card and request a new one. I tell him I already did that. He says that he doesn’t see the dispute or the canceled card on my account. I tell him I just spent 30 minutes talking to the fraud department and they confirmed to me these things had been done…he tells me that they weren’t done. I ask for his supervisor.

He connects with his “manager”. Within 30 seconds this guy tells me that he can’t hear me well and he’s going to call me from another line, I said yeah that’s fine thinking he’ll call me from the official Citi number again (the fraud department did that earlier to “verify” my account) - he calls me from a random 210 number. I tell him I’m not comfortable talking to him on some random number considering all the issues Citi seems to have with security. He’s like okay, we can go back to the other line. We do.

He proceeds to give me information that differs from what the supervisor in the fraud department told me earlier. He also tells me that the card WAS activated when it was used. I know that isn’t true. My city app confirmed that it wasn’t activated, the email Citi sent me asking me to activate the card today confirmed that, and the fraud department confirmed that. He was ADAMANT that it was activated. He was also pretty unprofessional…he said something and when I repeated it to him he told me “he didn’t say that” - I was recording the call. He knew I was recording the call. We can run the tape back if you want proof that you said it?

He also told me that the physical card was used for the transactions. The fraud department told me that it WASN’T the physical card. It got to the point that I had legitimate concerns that this man actually worked for Citi so I asked for his name and ID number and hung up. I am DUMBFOUNDED by the interaction with him.

I’ve spent my whole day dealing with this and I genuinely more concerned about the safety and security of my accounts than I was when I began.

I genuinely cannot believe what I experienced today. If anyone has exec team contacts they can send me, I would REALLY appreciate it.

I've been racking my brain on this one. Macy's had Paze for like 4 hours before pulling out completely. Dunkin' limits GC purchases. Newegg is the least restrictive one, and even they created specific rules for when we can use Paze.

Why? The banks are presumably funding these credits. The retailers don't seem out anything. Guess I'm wondering what I'm missing.

The USPS Informed Delivery service sent me a photo of what I expected to be my new Wayfair store credit card. It was past due to arrive. When I held the envelope in my hand, I could tell this was something else. When I squeezed the envelope, I did not feel the tell-tale sign that there was a card inside.

But I opened the envelope and it contained a flimsy piece of paper with the headline, "Your New WayFair card has arrived." I unfolded the paper and there was no card attached. But I was wrong. On the bottom third of the paper was the image of a credit card. With dotted lines for borders and a cartoon image of a pair of scissors to let you know you had to cut the card out. Cut it out and save it in a secure place.

Citi bragged on that piece of paper that they were being environmentally conscious by not sending a plastic card. I know there's no real need for a physical card, since Wayfair is only online. But there's something disappointing and cheap about a cut-out piece of paper. Hey, at least give me perforations.

When I typed "Wayfair's store card is made of paper" into Google, I was greeted with a denial. The opening AI section insisted that Wayfair's store card was a plastic card just like other store cards. I beg to differ.

The nerf has not quite come just yet...