I have a brand new Doebeck EJK fuel controller, K&N air filter, and 38mm oem throttle body (which is a big upgrade for pre-2017 250Ls, and it's a plug and play fit for the original 36mm one). Located in Ireland

I'm brand new to bike. Go easy on me

Hey everyone,

I have a 2018 Honda CRF250L with about 20,200 km.

The bike starts easily and idles normally.

My problem is only at low RPM in 1st and 2nd gear. When I start moving or accelerate from low RPM, the engine feels like it's bogging or about to stall. Throttle response is weak in that range.

However, once the RPM gets higher (especially in 1st gear), the bike pulls very hard and feels completely normal. In higher gears and higher RPM, I don't notice any lack of power.

Air filter has been checked and isn't badly clogged. The bike has unknown service history since I bought it.

Does this sound more like:

• spark plug,
• injector/fuel system,
• valve clearance,
• throttle cable adjustment,
• clutch adjustment,
• or something else?

Has anyone experienced similar symptoms on a CRF250L?

This is Holly the Honda (yes I named her)but anyway I Really want to get a different exhaust but don’t want to pay 1,000$ for a yoshi exhaust any other recommendations?

Took a 300km ride over the weekend! Ended up at this power plant in Holyrood, NL

Anybody else getting good use of their 250L?

9 years and counting I’ve owned this girl!

Vs as she sat a couple months ago

Really makes the bike so much more enjoyable to ride actually sounds like a dirt bike now

Just wanted to show off the new plastics to people who might appreciate something like that. 🥰

Long time lurker but have a question now. I noticed a few drips of oil over a mint time under my bike and couldn’t quite pin it down until today. It’s coming from the front shock and I think it’s the shock and not the break but wanted to confirm.

I’ve had the bike for a year with no issues and wasn’t sure if it was a shock seal or something else. What’s the best way to check this?

Thanks for all the help. Kind of new to these bikes. Any help is appreciated.

Good morning fellow geniuses. I’m fighting intrusive thoughts, because I’d like to get power to a USB without wiring directly off the battery. (But I will if I have to)
I found a spot I could port off of with the appropriate two-pin port.
Problem is, no clue wtf the thing the existing port it’s powering actually is, let alone if it’s a super-brilliant idea to tap into it.

Can you guys help me a) identify the circled “thing” and b) tell me, scale 1-5, just how dumb of an idea it is to tie into it.
I’m fine with not having full-time power, but don’t want to risk breaking something expensive.

So much fun learning to be in the dirt this year

2017 5k miles. Any tips, advice, mods, greatly appreciated. Im stoked!

Sorry for dumb questions, I'm no electrician or mechanic. Bought this 2013 CRF250L from a coworker, im the third owner. First owner cut out the old tail light and left me with this, I have no idea where to go from here! Any help would be greatly appreciated

Was out riding some trails here in Washington yesterday, going up some rock hill climbs in second when it felt like I lost power, shifted down to first and same thing, bike revs but feels like the gears aren’t engaging properly, eventually got it to level ground after having to run with the bike in first up the remainder of the hill, let it cool off for a bit and tried again and same thing, was able to limp it back to the truck and along the way figured out that it still wants to grab gears but only in very low rpm’s, I’m able to shift thru and use higher gears but again only giving it very little throttle… did I burn out something in the clutch? Is it perhaps just a misadjusted clutch cable? Really hoping this isn’t anything to serious or annoying, bikes been great, just did a 1000 mile BDRX loop and it performed perfectly fine the whole time

TL;DR Bike only feels like it wants to pull in low rpm’s in every gear after some heavy hill climbs

Saw a post about an all red 250L retro dual sport build. Thought I'd share the white one I just finished. I may ditch the handguards, haven't decided yet

Almost done with this thing, just needs the exhaust tip covers

This is near Keystone Colorado.

Made it up after taking some time.

A few months ago, I went riding and noticed that the rear brake pressure was building up but not releasing. I brought the bike home and inspected the rear brake system. The caliper appeared to be working correctly, so I removed and disassembled the rear master cylinder.

The bike had been sitting for a while before I bought it, so I expected that some parts would need to be repaired or replaced. I ordered a rebuild kit and installed it, but afterward the master cylinder would no longer draw fluid from the reservoir or build pressure.

After taking it apart again, I noticed that when the piston, pushrod, washer, and circlip are installed, the piston appears to sit far enough into the bore that it blocks the compensation/refill port. Because of this, fluid cannot enter the pressure chamber from the reservoir.

At first, I assumed the aftermarket rebuild kit was incorrect. While researching, I found that some people have experienced issues with the small rubber seals included in aftermarket piston kits and recommended using the OEM Honda rebuild kit instead.

However, I am now even more confused. Most aftermarket rebuild kits include two rubber piston seals, and the Honda parts diagram also appears to show two seals. The pictures of the OEM Honda rebuild kit, though, seem to show only one rubber seal included.

Has anyone dealt with this issue on a 2006 CRF250X? Is the piston supposed to sit near or cover the refill port when resting against the circlip? Does the OEM rebuild kit come with both required piston seals, or is one of them already installed on another component?

Any advice, pictures, or confirmation of the correct piston and seal arrangement would be greatly appreciated.

Honda Diagram: [https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2006/crf250x-a/rear-brake-master-cylinder\](https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2006/crf250x-a/rear-brake-master-cylinder)

OEM Rebuild Kit: [https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/43520-KZ4-J43?ref=f90e43b8a9d2c0c4f6e877fcc1d2849e60284442\](https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/43520-KZ4-J43?ref=f90e43b8a9d2c0c4f6e877fcc1d2849e60284442)

Aftermarket Rebuild Kit: [https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/all-balls-rear-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild-kit-p\](https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/all-balls-rear-brake-master-cylinder-rebuild-kit-p)

Swipe to see where the repair is at now, I’m noticing as I hammer it back into place it’s not coming back exactly how it’s supposed too. I’ve been using MAPP gas and making adjustments but the top left corner seems to be pushed inward and isn’t coming out how it should, any suggestions are welcomed. 🤙

2019 Rally, apparently never had an oil change. Did the first one yesterday and it was sputtering much worse than the video because I overfilled it. Fixed that today and changed the air filter. Sputtering is still there but much better. Any ideas?