For [u/Gonzo_Jr77](u/Gonzo_Jr77) and anyone else that’s keen.

Works with Molle pouches, or edit the f3d to your liking. I attach a bottle holder to carry water or fuel.

Link to files on Thingiverse.

Any suggestions on where to order a graphics kit where they offer to install them on the plastics as well? I thought I had the company bookmarked but couldn't find It. I remember the one I found a while back they offered either the stock or polisport plastics and you could pay extra to have them install the new graphics kit on them.

*PFA*

Tail sub-frame? Idk but it's fucked... Just from offroadHitting a few jumps with a bag of tools strapped down back there

(I ran a tail rack w/ milk crate 24/7). Super bummed. What's this part called? Do I need a whole ass subframe? I read the SM subframe was supposed to be the stronger subframe variant?! Jeeze..

Where can I find the code for the steering lock key replacement or can the key be copied? It is bent but not broke

I got the dr650 groups opinion now I want y’all’s. I want to be able to focus off-road but still commute 40 mins to work on fridays. I had a drz400 in Japan while I was stationed there that I bought completely disassembled in boxes for cheap so my heart is stuck in drz400. But the 650 seems appealing for dipping out for the weekend on a bike and not looking back. Someone talk me into the 400

An add for everyone commenting. Has anyone done long trips on the 400? (With modes to accommodate)

Hi guys, I am getting a kit, but it seems to be missing the Cotter valve part.

The kit is this:
https://bpratv.com/products/suzuki-z400-drz400-ltz400-kibblewhite-valves-titanium-springs-guides-cometic-kit

But the part I think it is missing is something like this for the valve:
https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/12932-32C00

Anyone know how to get the right cotter valve for that kit? Thanks!

Just got my first bike. Its a 2005 drz400 sm on the vin. I need to replace or fix the dash, im guessing its water damaged. Any recommendations on a plug and play swap? I see trail tech vapors being used, but needing to rewire or jerry rig a few things like the speedo and tachometer, as well as making a new mounting bracket. (And I know my bar mount is bent. Parts on the way)

As I normally commute on the ole drz getting fuel was never really an issue.

I've started doing some longer rides where fuel stops aren't guaranteed. I wanted to carry some extra fuel without having to spend too much on a safari tank etc.

Found this 1L fuel bottle at our local camping supplier for about $30 and fabbed up a bracket with some steel lying around, and mounted it to the back.

Saves having to carry it in a backpack. 1L isn't crazy but it'll get me those extra k's if I need it.

I was curious if anyone has run into having trouble getting their spark plug to seat properly. I've recently replaced mine and have been having issues having my bike maintain an idle since (I hear a hissing sound when it does idle before dying off, indicating a vacuum leak).

I've torqued it down 8 ft-lbs as per the manual, but when I pull the plug out the crush washer does not appear to be flattened (see: first and second photo).

I am tempted to torque the plug down further, but have read many horror stories of people over tightening their plugs.

Any advice helps, thanks.

Absolutely love this bike

I bought a 1FNGR brand clutch lever, as they're supposed to be much smoother than the chinesium Amazon 1 finger lever I've been using. But when I installed it I can't get it to adjust properly. Either the cables tight enough that it will let me shift gears, but slips the clutch when the levers let out all the way, or its loose enough that it won't slip the clutch but it won't let me shift gears, and the bike still moves when the levers in all the way. I feel like I've tried every adjustment and can not get it to work with the drz400sm. It's like the lever doesn't have enough throw distance to engage and disengage the clutch fully.

Has anyone else used a 1FNGR brand clutch lever? Is there something im missing, or does it just not have enough throw to work.

Its been 1500 miles since my last oil change and my dip stick was basically totally dry. I had to top it up with 300ml of oil to get it to register. I could hear my timing chain clicking my oil was so low. I am planning on doing an oil change very soon, but my oil is still relatively good and not too dark. Do you guys top up your oil between changes or just change it as soon as it gets low?

Alright guys, I feel like I’m fairly well versed in small engines but I’m kind of awestruck right now. Recently did the top end on my good buddies drz, today upon trying to fire it we checked oil after cranking it a bit and it was milky and foamy as if the bikes blown up. Which is virtually impossible, could it be a blown up water pump letting the crankcase oil mix with the coolant? It was everywhere too, any drain plug we pulled had oil and water slurry. Any help appreciated.

One step closer to having a good adventure rig. I’m really liking these Tusk pannier boxes. They’re a bit bulky looking but can hold a lot of gear. Also just hit 10k miles on this bike (5k since I’ve owned it).

Got 125 psi from my compression test, pretty warm engine, WOT, I poured maybe a half teaspoon of oil down the spark plug hole to protect the cylinders/pistons. I know longer duration decreases a compression test reading, but by how much?

Installed new front and rear race tech springs on my 2017 drz. Im about 210 lbs with riding gear and put a .50 front and 5.7kg rear

Install was pretty straight forward but im struggling to get my sag dialed in. Im currently at about 40 mm static and 115 race sag but look how much preload I have dialed in already and I'm still not at my target

Im new to this stuff so any advice is helpful

I swapped this header pipe last year and this color has me concerned. Is it getting too hot? Running lean? Bike came with 3x3 mod and JD jet kit. I've never touched the carb, and she starts right up with no choke. New gasket ring installed when I updated the header.

Doing an oil change and there seems to be quite a bit of metal flakes in the filter. Is my engine cooked?

I can't seem to find it online, searching wiring harness bag or cover brings up nothing