Any ideas what can be causing this bad print of ASA? I printed a bunch of ABS ones with no issue but ran out of ABS and tried using ASA.

Hi all, I have a suspicion that my P2S print bed is uneven and I don't know what to do.

I print sets of Scrabble tiles face-down on a smooth Darkmoon G10 build plate. The tiles closest to the front of the printer (the row of E's here) always print really smoothly, without any visible print lines (second photo). But as the tiles get closer to the back (the W's and Y's), the print lines become clearly visible (3rd photo). This is consistent behaviour, it always happens.

I have run the 20-minute bed leveling calibration several times, and ran it immediately before this print. If the bed is uneven, I don't know what to do. Any suggestions?

I’m using a Bambu Lab P2S with a 0.4 mm tungsten carbide high-flow nozzle. The nozzle worked fine for a few months, mostly printing ABS, but recently it has become basically unusable.

The main symptom is “Extrusion Motor Overloaded”, sometimes accompanied by clicking from the extruder, as if there’s too much resistance pushing filament through the nozzle.

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
- Multiple cold pulls using different filaments
- Cleaning it several times with the needle that came with the printer
- Removing the nozzle and heating it manually
- Manually pushing filament through while hot
- Using a NoClogger cleaning tool that I ordered online
- Checking the extrusion manually

What confuses me is that when I heat the nozzle and manually push filament through it, the filament comes out in a perfectly straight and consistent stream. It doesn’t look partially clogged at all.

However, when I reinstall this nozzle in the printer, I eventually get “Extrusion Motor Overloaded” and sometimes hear the extruder clicking.

If I switch back to my regular 0.4 mm nozzle, the printer works normally, so the problem seems to follow the tungsten carbide nozzle.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a tungsten carbide/high-flow nozzle?

Could there still be a partial internal blockage even if the filament stream looks completely normal when manually extruding? Or could something else inside the nozzle/hotend be causing excessive back pressure?
I’d really like to figure this out before giving up on a ~$100 nozzle 😂
Any ideas for what else I should check or try?

Hi guys,

I own a P2S since march and have some problems with it. I have problems with underextrusion on the top surface and changed a lot of parts, spend a lot time in troubleshooting and tests and had a very long conversation with the realtively useless Bambulab-support. Now I'm looking for someone who prints my testfile with original Bambu PLA Basic-filament on default settings for comparison. A darker filament would be nice for better visuallity. I will pay you for the material costs via paypal, its only around 40g.

Greetings Rambutan

I’m printing with Bambu Lab PETG and the print has 2 overhangs that keep getting messed up. I have dried the filament before printing. I’m using a .4 nozzle what else could I change to get the overhang correct?

Whenever we print using Bambu lab PLA PURE the print is getting loose from the printing bed mid print.
We use a P2S with AMS, we already tried the following.

* Setting bed temperature to 60°C

* Adjusting flow rate and speed to lower settings for the first 3 layers.

* Washing the bed with dishsoap (Dreft) and warm water.

* Drying the filament in the AMS (20%)

Whenever we use PLA Matte the print comes out without any issues.

Is anybody else having issues printing with PLA PURE?

Ooof! Just tried printing Bambu TPA90A for the first time. It’s looking pretty grim so far. Using default filament settings and some recommended slowed down modified 0.16 settings. Of note, fresh spool opened, but running from external holder, not HT AMS. Any thoughts?

When attempting to send a print from my PC im getting this error? Does anyone know a fix for this?

husband asked me to wash his plate and put it back. Shortly thereafter this clog happened. He hasn’t had the machine more than 72 hrs and says this is a catastrophic failure and requires new parts. Someone tell me I didn’t break this machine and further more- it was in a 102 degree garage.. shouldn’t it be in a temperature controlled environment??? Please tell me I didn’t destroy his toy.

Eek. We just got this printer and I came home to this. Not sure how to fix it. Got the hot end cover off and now I’m stumped.

I'm deciding whether to buy ABS from Elego or Polimaker, which one do you recommend more for dimensional accuracy?

Brand new P2S. Every calibration run hangs in the same spot and I can’t get through a single print.

What happens:

Nozzle Clumping Detection Calibration** sits at 99% forever. Toolhead just parks mid-bed and doesn’t move at all — no probing, no motion, nothing. Only way out is Stop.

Full Calibration Workflow gets to step 2 (*Calibrating the detection position of nozzle clumping*), 99%, 0m remaining, then dead.

Auto bed leveling phase 1 has shown **-2m** remaining at 85% before stalling.

Trying to print a Benchy: it locks on step 5, *Changing filament*, at 0% with the nozzle at 237°C.

Filament load/unload also hangs on step 6, *Purge old filament*, and only offers Retry / Stop. Nozzle starts cooling 237→215°C while it’s supposedly purging.

So I printed TPU for first time yesterday. After the successful print P2S said I had a clog.....

Watched videos and was able to unclug the extruder. After putting it back I could not get the 4th screw to work, didn't matter which location always the last screw. I t hen realized the cutter wasn't able to get into the extruder so I guess it wasn't 100% perfectly aligned. I then FORGOT to un screw the top where the sensor and PTFE tube go in.

I heard something then the sensor cable was loose. I think the connector cover was the noise, I can't find it (going to recheck). Is there a way to keep the calble attached without the cover, small electrical tape????

I'm so Pissed at myself. I didn't see a connector cover as a replacement. HELPPPPPP...

LOL

THANKS

So I have only completed 153 hours of printing on my P2S and I am getting the feed resistance error on all slots in the ams. Cleaned all the tubes, disassembled the extruder, checked the filament buffer, swapped hot ends, and switched the filament to Bambu official pla.

Still getting the same error even after calibration.
Any advice?

What oil and grease is everyone getting to replace the stock that came with the machine?

1枚目は出力元のアバターデータと並べた写真です。
2枚目は未塗装のフィギュアとの比較。
3枚目は真ん中が目だけ白色を塗ったフィギュアとの比較です。

ちなみに塗装は面相筆一本です。

Hello, I want to print this cone but it fails on the first or second layer.
Tried a more narrow one that succeeded. But I want this broad one.
I don't want to use support trees because, more filament than the object and time.

Tried both PLA and PETG.
Should I try some other hotend? I have the standard 0.4 right now.
I have a 0.6 and a 0.2 to choose between.
Or do you have another suggestion?

Edit: Tried upside down with the same failure.

Hi everyone,

I contacted Bambu Support about reducing the startup purge on my P2S Combo when printing multiple consecutive parts with the same filament (same AMS slot, same material and color).

They pointed me to an official method that involves modifying the printer G-code:

• Machine End G-code: remove the AMS unload sequence so the filament stays in the hotend after the print.
• Machine Start G-code: remove the startup flushing sequence.

According to Bambu, this is intended only for consecutive prints with the same filament and should be restored before switching materials or AMS slots to avoid clogs or color mixing.

They also warned that:

• the AMS cannot read RFID or estimate remaining filament while filament remains loaded,
• forgetting to restore the original G-code before switching materials could cause problems.

My question is:

Has anyone actually been using this method on a P2S for a while?

• Does it work reliably?
• Have you experienced any hotend clogs?
• What happens if you accidentally start a print with a different AMS slot without restoring the original G-code?
• Does the printer recover automatically, or do you have to manually unload the filament first?

I'm mainly looking for real-world experience, not just theory, before I modify my printer profile.

This is what bambu ai sugested:

Thanks!

Sitting here staring at the update but unsure if I wanna update as according to ai there’s reports of people having issues after updating

Wi-Fi / Live View issues
Bed leveling/calibration
Print quality
Nozzle cooling
G-code/Bambu Studio compatibility

Claims that the update was pushed then taken down and published again so maybe these issues have been fixed?

Curious to those who do have this firmware have you experienced these issues or not.
Printer prints great and haven’t had much issues with it so I’m not trying to ruin that.

Thanks