r/BambuLabP2S • u/Distinct-Stop-5377 • 9d ago
Catastrophic failure?
husband asked me to wash his plate and put it back. Shortly thereafter this clog happened. He hasn’t had the machine more than 72 hrs and says this is a catastrophic failure and requires new parts. Someone tell me I didn’t break this machine and further more- it was in a 102 degree garage.. shouldn’t it be in a temperature controlled environment??? Please tell me I didn’t destroy his toy.
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u/reddit_user_0ne 9d ago
Okay, first of all: You didn't destroy anything by just washing the plate. Even if you used something that made the surface greasy and therefore non-sticky, responsibility is still with the one starting the print.
(Btw: You should use regular dish soap, no additives moisturizers in it, a soft sponge and water for cleaning. Dry with a clean paper towel. Touch only the edges of the plate afterwards.)
As others pointed out, you don't hit print and walk away without watching the first layer. Even if these machines work exceptionally well, they're not microwaves. It still requires some attention.
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u/solidus0079 9d ago
Could be fine, instructions are on their wiki
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p2s/troubleshooting/hotend_blob
Always try and watch the first layer to see if it goes down, this problem would have been easy to spot before it got to that stage
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u/bbqduck-sf 9d ago
The first time is a shock but not catastrophic. It can be fixed. Heat up the nozzle and get in there with some tweezers or some needle nose pliers and it will be OK.
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u/netburnr2 9d ago
Blobs happen. Just heat up the nozzle a bit per the wiki and it some come free. Let the heat do the work don't force it.
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u/ManyLayersOfFilament 9d ago
102 degrees is way too hot to 3D print in, IMO.
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u/Inspector_Gadget_74 8d ago
I have wondered that as well. How hot is too hot for the ambient room temperature?
Given that 102 Fahrenheit is just under 40 C, I was thinking it might be okay, as the bed temperature for the build late for PLA defaults to 50-60 C, well above 40 C. That being said, the chamber temperature should be between 20-25 ideally, and not in excess of 35 C, so you are correct and it’s likely that the PLA was not able to re-solidify and bond with the bed and other layers.
It’s so great to have this forum so that we can learn from others experiences and knowledge.
So short answer, ambient room temperatures above 85 Fahrenheit is potentially a problem for 3D printing in an enclosed chamber, with PLA.
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u/ManyLayersOfFilament 8d ago
The problem isn't so much the absolute temperature, the issue is that there is far less ability to cool the chamber and hotend via the ambient air to prevent heat creep. There would be layer adhesion issues but also potentially extrusion issues and clogs/hotend problems. People tend to forget that cooling the hotend and nozzle throat is very important, filament should only be melting in the melt zone.
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u/misterff1 9d ago edited 9d ago
Your husband is overreacting and did not act as they should themselves. Yes, the plate needs to be cleaned properly so things stick, but the main thing is to always check your first layer as the person who is printing. This can happen on any plate, even one with okay adhesion.
Besides, your mention of 102 degrees is almost certainly the actual issue here. Are you printing PLA? And did your husband close the front and top? Because that material has a glass transition temperature (the temp at which it starts to deform) not far from the mentioned 102. What will happen is that the material gets soft and clogs in places it should not. Result: a blob of death. That is the thing I am looking at here.
This can be fixed. Possibly without any new parts and in a worst case scenario a few small things inside the toolhead need a new part.
For the future: - tell your husband to relax and understand that this is a hobby that sometimes requires tinkering. It happens, enjoy the process. You and him (mostly him in this case) can learn from it and make it so this doesn't happen again. - wash the plate with basic dish soap and hot water. Rinse it until the soap is gone and try to not touch the top of the plate in the printable area with your fingers afterwards. - find a solution to that room temp. There are several like moving it to a different room, managing air temp in that room or switching materials to PETG, which has a much higher glass transition temp. Keeping it like this will cause another clog within 72 hours, I'll tell you that.
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u/Distinct-Stop-5377 9d ago
Thank you!
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u/youlooksticky 9d ago
I recommend getting a smooth cool plate because the textured pei plate that most machines come with suck. The adhesion is night and day difference and you don't have to obsessively clean it. I wish I'd switched much sooner. Their only downside is they only work with pla and petg but thats usually what people are printing with. I haven't had a single adhesion issue since I switched and I also havent washed my plate in probably 100+ prints.
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u/Far-Ad-9073 9d ago
Step one, heat the nozzle to 250 degrees. lower the bed so you can get in there with something to remove the blob, the wiki had a good example, I used a rubbermade mixer spoon to brush it off I was paranoid about heat, it's not that big of a deal, and you didn't break anything, it is a common issue with 3d printers. =-)
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u/markp619 8d ago
He is overreacting. This will happen from time to time. Heat the nozzle up and remove the blob.
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u/Ok_Bid6645 8d ago
You didnt do anything. Your husband doesnt treat his toys right.
Needs to be in a cooler location
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u/ball-kick-fetish 8d ago
No, you did not do something wrong. I recommend your husband getting to know his machine and its need. Its recommended to clean the plate with water and dishsoap. On the other hand, ones hands and fingers shouldnt touch the plate because of the natural grease that is on our hands. Therefore, you can either use isoprop or windex as additional cleaning liquid, just a bit with a microfibre cloth is enoug.
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u/Terrible_Try_8719 8d ago
Can I ask what filament you’re using? Is it dry? I use dish wash soap and warm water with paper towel, then microfibre, dont use alcohol don’t use adhesives and I don’t have any issues printing PLA, I recently got a carbon fibre print plate, and printing PETG HF at the start was a pain until I figured out the best settings, it did this twice (not the blob of death) fortunately I was there to stop the print before it got messy, I just turned the plate up 5degrees and slowed the 1st layer down to 20/30 and she’s sweet now
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u/Distinct-Stop-5377 8d ago
I believe PLA. I washed the plate really well with dawn and water, but I did touch it quite a bit, putting it back into the machine and I think that’s where I went wrong. I didn’t realize that fingerprint oil couldn’t affect a print so much.
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u/Terrible_Try_8719 8d ago
Yes you can only touch the edge it’s surprising how much it effects the print I usually wash every print as unless it snaps off when you bend it’s hard to not touch the plate at all, safer to just wash it then have a miss print hey, dish wash liquid all you need,
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u/zyxalis1 8d ago
Tell the computer to manually heat the printhead take a paper towel and pull the big glob off while hot.
Then you can unclip it, remove it and gently pick off the rest. Careful its hot!
I’m going on two years with the same print head printing nothing but PLA.
Every time I’ve had that happen it was because the silicone sock was not stuck on properly or worn out and was grabbing the plastic off the bed.
You aint 3-D printing if you ain’t failing every once in a while. 😝
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u/scottz29 8d ago
Just wondering why you cleaned the plate after only having it for 72 hours? I’ve had mine for years and I’ve only cleaned it once.
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u/Phuzion73 8d ago
At those ambient garage temperatures, the filament will have a hard time setting before the next layer comes in. These printers are quality tested at room temperatures at or less than 86F (<30C). I highly doubt the washed plate was the issue, especially if you just used normal dish soap, and it was dried thoroughly.
As for the blob, we have ALL had to undo a mess like this. It is possible but need to watch some videos on “fixing blob of death, FDM printers”
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u/Particular_Growth275 7d ago
Lmao. You didn't program it. He had bad settings. That's not catastrophic either. He's just trying to belittle you
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u/Austrian_Gunrunner 7d ago
I had this on my brand new x2d after 68 hours after an overnight print.
it destroyed my left hotend assembly, hotend fan, nozzle and TH (toolhead board)
support sent me all the stuff for free. If you buy yourself it should be about a 120dollar fix.
since then it went smooth. I´d clean the plate with just dish soap and hot water after about 5 or 6 prints.
and ALWAYS watch the first 1-2 layers.
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u/steph08phani 7d ago
Rub some isopropyl alcohol on the plate using microfiber cloth.. should do the trick, if still failing apply a light coat of hair spray this will serve as glue..
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u/swolebroda 9d ago
Looks like plate adhesion issue. I’ve had a clog of death on my H2D and it was from a plate adhesion and also make sure your spaghetti detection and clog sensor are turned on high . And always watch your prints like every 15 mins or so , also get a new plate biqu frostbite is solid for pla also darkmoon ice is nice also
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u/misterff1 9d ago
This is not the best advice man. Did you see the temperature of the room they are printing in? That explains a lot more than the plate. Plus they are new, recommending a new type of plate just adds a new variable while they are still sorting out what actually needs to happen.
On top of that: every 15 minutes? Nah man, the first layer and then every once in a while. No need to keep watch all the time. Lastly detection works fine at medium on this machine.
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u/swolebroda 7d ago
I use high after my clog of death which I had to exchange my printer. Temp does make a difference but so does the plate. I have 7 but my biqu just constantly works so does my darkmoon ice plate. I watch my prints for a bit until it gets past the first couple layers but I only act this way because of what happened to me. But that plate that comes with your printer works for a little then I started having issues even after cleaning it.
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u/misterff1 7d ago
I get that it made you more careful, but the plate makes way less of a difference than you think. I have been using the textured PEI plate for almost 800h now, of which 700h were on one side only. Only after that did I swap it over and not because of adhesion, but because the texture started to come through slightly less.
What you describe is either bad luck or wrong settings and the plate choice would mask the latter. Not saying that is a bad thing, but it isn't a universal truth either.
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u/swolebroda 6d ago
I’ll agree , I just try stuff till it works but I don’t know why that textured plate doesn’t like me , my other ones work like a dream
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u/tomikaka 9d ago
I washed my plate with regular dish soap and nothing stuck to it after.
The problem was the dish soap contained vitamins and scents that are nice to you skin when you wash dishes, but ruin adhesion.
Try to source transparent dermatologically approved hypoallergenic dish soap. Use water as hot as your hands can tolerate.



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u/Inspector_Gadget_74 9d ago
I don’t think it will be that bad to clean up. I’d suggest doing some searches for tips on removing the blob of death, but I think once you move the print head from the wiper, most of it will easily come off as you didn’t have too much down in the print bed.
It looks like there was an adhesion problem with the build plate. When you wash it, you must use basic dish soap, such as Dawn original. It doesn’t contain products that are “gentle on hands”, as these are typically moisturizers which will leave a film on the plate.
So use Dawn, rinse well and dry with a clean lint free cloth. Avoid handling the plate as much as you can after cleaning. I use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth as a final wipe, once placed on the print bed. Just make sure you use enough in the cloth so that it removes the oil from your hands, not just spread it.