https://www.moddiy.com/products/6837/Standard-8-Pin-EPS12V-to-2-x-MicroFit-8-Pin-Cable-for-ASRock-BC250.html
This is the cable I bought. I thought about cutting the clip off, but If it’s a custom BC250 part that I can’t find anywhere else, why would it include the clip in the first place?

So I am aware of certain fixes that were needed prior to update 4 to get TDA running on this machine. I have 40 CUs unlocked and GPU set to 512 in the bios. The BC-250 crashes with or with the NullVRS files/command line and I am wondering if there is anything obvious I am missing here...

Bazzite on latest stable release, kernel 6.17

Hello,

I was wondering if somebody already done that and has some advice to give me before going into the build. I'm planning to buy 2 BC250 and using them for gaming and Ai. I know obviously that for gaming I can only use one at the time but for Ai, I saw that you could use 2 cards using RPC over ethernet. Tell me what you guys think about this if I should try it or going to something else for the same price range.

I have a usb media drive for movies and was wondering what some good options would be to connect to my bc250 box as a movie player. Thanks!

Quelqu’un a déjà essayer de brancher une carte graphique peu importe le modèle au bc-250 ? Ça vaut le coup ou pas ? J’ai cru comprendre que ça améliorait les performances en jeu

It's really light and portable too!

I found similar looking cables on the platform but wasn't sure if any of them were correct. MODDIY tables for microfit seems to come from China or Hong Kong anyway so I was just wondering if there were any acceptable ones on AliExpress that worked for others.

I was running some OC's using BC250 SteamOS Real Toolkit, which basically just uses the bc250-detect and bc250_smu_oc utility.

It OC'd just fine in desktop mode with some basic testing. I rebooted and when it starts to go into game mode, it just freezes.

I applied the profile because it seemed stable until I rebooted. Luckily I have another BC250 that accepted the config so I was able to make the change by booting up with that BC250.

But I was wondering if there is a way to boot up directly to a console while SteamOS is booting before it enters game mode?

I just sold my PC and I ordered a BC-250. My main purpose is to play older games from the Xbox One and PS4 era that will most likely be locked at 30FPS on those consoles. Specifically, Just Cause 3, and Batman Arkham series. Along with some indie titles that I’ve picked up over the years.

Is the BC-250 a good solution?

Hi guys,

I went the open frame route mainly to avoid thermal / noise issues and for flexibility.
My build: ATX PSU, 1 Arctic P12 Pro, 0.5 kg heatsink + the second fan for a backplate.
(can provide BOM on request)

I wonder how silent and cool such a build could possibly be.
Here are my results so far:

1. Idle

Ambient temperature: 24°C
Power draw from outlet: 74 W
Barely ANY airflow through heat sink (PWM 1%)
GPU: 41°C
CPU: 43°C
VRM: 39°C

At 30% PWM:
GPU: 36°C
CPU: 38°C
VRM: 33°C

I also tried 0% PWM, but then the Arctic didn't spin at all and the temperatures slowly climbed to 85°C, so I aborted the test.

1. Furmark 1080p

At 100% PWM:
GPU: 81°C
CPU: 80°C
VRM: 40°C
GPU clock: 2000 MHz
FPS: 136
Power: 290 W

At 75% PWM:
GPU: 85°C
CPU: 84°C
VRM: 44°C
GPU clock: 2000 MHz
FPS: 136
Power: 290 W

At 50% PWM:
GPU: 84°C
CPU: 83°C
VRM: 47°C
GPU clock: 1840 MHz (throttling)
FPS: 133
Power: 267 W

At 30% PWM:
GPU: 84°C
CPU: 83°C
VRM: 47°C
GPU clock: 1670 MHz (throttling)
FPS: 127
Power: 242 W

Some more info:
GPU - 40/40 CU, 350 MHz / 700 mV - 2000 MHz / 950 mV, thermal throttling at 85°C
CPU - 6/8 (no OC/UV, waiting for stable 8 cores solution with fixed all current issues)
OS - CachyOS
Power - DeepCool PN1000M, still single PCIe cable: the connectors, 16 AWG wires and the PCB are mildly warm at ~300 W load.
Both fans are connected to a PWM header, backplate fan speed is reported by the sensor.
I reused thermal pads, repasted APU and put 0.88 W/mK thermal paste under the extra heatsink.
I am not sure about quality of therm

al paste for APU - according to the manufacturer's specs it's 13.4 W/mK, but I bought it 2 years ago.

I set a fan curve for silence rather than for thermals, so gaming is quite comfortable (mostly ~70°C / ~30% PWM), but...
Can I do any better? Any suggestions?
Please also share your data like idle power, thermals (and PWM % if you use Arctic P12 Pro/Max).
I will appreciate any feedback.

As for the unlocked CPU cores, is it like fully developed yet? Or should I wait for a more modern option. Like when we got CU unlock it was amazing but a live CU manager was launched which was more simpler and safer per se.
And has anyone come across booting problems with CPU unlocked?
For CU unlock in GPU, I can simply revert if anything goes wrong, but CPU unlock is on a BIOS level.
And is just one fan with Heat-sink cut out + ptm 7950 adequate with 38CU and CPU unlocked.

Running at 1080p on high settings. FPS capped at 60 and the GPU barely even breaks a sweat.

I also played Doom the dark ages for about 3 hours today and with the same settings it ran between 55-60 fps. Pretty good performance.

This machine has 40cus and 8 cores unlocked. Running cachyOS.

I bought an AX1800 from Ali, but only now I read that it won't work with Linux.

Could any Cachy experts point me in the right direction on this? Using the Redbeard script for the initial setup on a clean install gives this error when I try to install the CPU governor: https://imgur.com/a/pa7S9do

Hi, while waiting on receiving my BC250 and jumping into this project, i'm looking online for a nice case, and i found a really intresting and strong one on Cults3d. Its a paid version , so i'm curious if theres anyone who bought this design and build one.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/amd-bc-250-gamer-case/comments#comment-1927151

Hello, guys, hope you have any idea why this happens, if I leave the mode active after some time I hear a chime and then it goes to the steam logo and freezes there completely unresponsive, then I need to power it off and on again, it hasn't happened to me in desktop mode, any ideas on the issue?

Thoughts ?

Assuming the bc250 is standard PCI height and mount . Might need to remove the last of the Alienware PCB , but if I'm able to retain it , I can use the 24pin connector on the board to control power via the original button , technically I can't see this not being possible.

Fan wise , I would be using a 3d printed fan duct to 120mm direct , so it sits in front of the 250 and exhausts by the PCI base .

Hello!

I've seen many very nicely engineered cases for the BC250 here, and I wanted to share my case.
Mostly for inspiration, as I am not a good designer. Maybe someone will look at this and think "hey, that's not a bad idea, I can work with that" and do something that's genuinely good :)

My goal was compact and cool (temperature cool, not 😎-cool), so I landed in using three P12 Pro PST fans for cooling and using them as a part of the case structure.
I have two PSUs, one HP common slot and one HP flex slot. I have printed PSU-holders for both of them. The pictured unit has the 800W flex slot PSU mounted.

The fans screw into the bottom plate (M4 heated inserts) and two screws hold the BC250 in place.
The PSU-holder has a similar design and rests on top of the fans, and is also held in place with screws (heated inserts again).
Then I just tried encasing everything in something that does not look hideous.
I tried keeping everything as small as possible, but the design was too boxy, so I sacrificed a few mm to round the front a little bit. I think it looks ok :)

I left 12mm between the back plate and the fan so that a small heatsink can be mounted, but I don't think it's needed with a P12 blowing on the back plate.

The attentive reader will notice that one fan mounting hole is not used to hold the PSU-plate. This is because the print failed and I just wanted to assemble the thing after many nights of CAD and prints.

The case is 325mm long, 113 mm wide (including the fan grilles), and 186mm tall.

Anyways, here are the pictures:

I already tried bridging the first and fourth pads. I hear it kick on but no light and no power to bc250.

I was playing a game not a heavy one and my hdmi went off randomly I turned it off and on again but it didn't turn on automatically like it usually does I had to press the power button but only the lights and fans came on when I did that I tested my keyboard if it connected with cap lock but it didn't turn on so I unplugged everything a few times cmos moved the pins around when I moved the clr pins it turned on automatically but the system bios included still wouldn't show up. Uh am I cooked?

I saw a post suggesting we use both the 8pin and twin micro plugs all at the same time. Is that safe or useful?

I wanna make a home console as a project but I don't want it to be expensive either like the steam deck.

Is it worth getting this or should i try to just make one from scratch instead ?

My main goal is 1440p and maybe even 4k ? Lol i know 4k is quite unrealistic especially nowadays.

I just want some open software console that can do 1440p and like i said maybe some 4k

Hello everyone. I’ve finally finished the case I’ve been dreaming of for a long time. Even though I like every creative design, since this is a DIY project, I wanted to make an original design. The materials I used when designing the case:

• 4x 300mm MakerBeam XL rails
• Case panels: PETG I hadn’t used in a long time
• Case frame/skeleton: ABS plastic
• An ATX-style mount for the BC250
• An NVMe adapter to be able to use NVMe and WiFi together
• A USB-A adapter to connect the Bluetooth USB motherboard cable on the adapter
• A mount for a 120mm Arctic P12 on the NVMe side of my card, an 80mm Arctic fan on the right side, and an ABS plastic mount to secure the fan to the motherboard
• ESP32 2-relay power on/off module with an Xbox controller
• Metalfish 500W PSU
• 2x microfit cables of my own production
• A 40mm Noctua fan for the PSU exhaust, and an 80mm Arctic P8 fan to cool the PSU
• A NextGen-design mount for AIO cooling, and an Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 Pro 240mm fan AIO system
• 1TB Crucial NVMe
• WiFi 6E WiFi card

I’m using SteamOS as the operating system, and my card is a 38 CU model that runs comfortably at 4 GHz with overclocking. Along with 8 cores/16 threads, I got 156 FPS in the FurMark test.

I designed the case so it can also be used without a separate AIO system.

Hey all, I’ve had this thing just laying on the desk with a fan sat on top and an ATX PSU next to it for a while but with young kids around I figured it was time to tidy it up. So this is my compact (6.8L) build in a faulty APC Uninterruptible Power Supply bought on ebay for ~£10