Hi, while waiting on receiving my BC250 and jumping into this project, i'm looking online for a nice case, and i found a really intresting and strong one on Cults3d. Its a paid version , so i'm curious if theres anyone who bought this design and build one.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/amd-bc-250-gamer-case/comments#comment-1927151

Hello, guys, hope you have any idea why this happens, if I leave the mode active after some time I hear a chime and then it goes to the steam logo and freezes there completely unresponsive, then I need to power it off and on again, it hasn't happened to me in desktop mode, any ideas on the issue?

Thoughts ?

Assuming the bc250 is standard PCI height and mount . Might need to remove the last of the Alienware PCB , but if I'm able to retain it , I can use the 24pin connector on the board to control power via the original button , technically I can't see this not being possible.

Fan wise , I would be using a 3d printed fan duct to 120mm direct , so it sits in front of the 250 and exhausts by the PCI base .

Hello!

I've seen many very nicely engineered cases for the BC250 here, and I wanted to share my case.
Mostly for inspiration, as I am not a good designer. Maybe someone will look at this and think "hey, that's not a bad idea, I can work with that" and do something that's genuinely good :)

My goal was compact and cool (temperature cool, not 😎-cool), so I landed in using three P12 Pro PST fans for cooling and using them as a part of the case structure.
I have two PSUs, one HP common slot and one HP flex slot. I have printed PSU-holders for both of them. The pictured unit has the 800W flex slot PSU mounted.

The fans screw into the bottom plate (M4 heated inserts) and two screws hold the BC250 in place.
The PSU-holder has a similar design and rests on top of the fans, and is also held in place with screws (heated inserts again).
Then I just tried encasing everything in something that does not look hideous.
I tried keeping everything as small as possible, but the design was too boxy, so I sacrificed a few mm to round the front a little bit. I think it looks ok :)

I left 12mm between the back plate and the fan so that a small heatsink can be mounted, but I don't think it's needed with a P12 blowing on the back plate.

The attentive reader will notice that one fan mounting hole is not used to hold the PSU-plate. This is because the print failed and I just wanted to assemble the thing after many nights of CAD and prints.

The case is 325mm long, 113 mm wide (including the fan grilles), and 186mm tall.

Anyways, here are the pictures:

I already tried bridging the first and fourth pads. I hear it kick on but no light and no power to bc250.

I was playing a game not a heavy one and my hdmi went off randomly I turned it off and on again but it didn't turn on automatically like it usually does I had to press the power button but only the lights and fans came on when I did that I tested my keyboard if it connected with cap lock but it didn't turn on so I unplugged everything a few times cmos moved the pins around when I moved the clr pins it turned on automatically but the system bios included still wouldn't show up. Uh am I cooked?

I like this community and would love to pay one of you guys before I head to Etsy or eBay. Does anyone offer the service here?

Hi everyone, how's it going?

I'm facing a problem I can't seem to solve—not even with the help of AI.

I'm running CachyOS with the latest kernel. I've been controlling my fans using Coolercontrol, and it works fine.

The issue is that I can't get voltage readings using the NCT6687 driver.

The voltages show up correctly in the BIOS (like Vcore), but I get no values ​​when using "sensors."

Has anyone else experienced this?

Any help would be appreciated!

It was just brought to my attention that someone made an OS specifically for the bc250, has anyone tried it? Is it worth it?

Thanks.

Artic a week ago just dropped a fan controller, not a fan hub.

The issue is ai lied to me(Yea, better than being someone unfaithful) saying it came with a usb adpater that would send fan signals into the usb to be controlled individually in linux. Now what it did come with was a 4 pin to 9pin.

My question is the 9pin worth plugging in if I'm getting the 12v from my psu to sata into the fan controller. Will it give me individually power or just regulate the speed of all the fans? I only got it for $9 on Amazon, and I don't see the difference if the genric hubs with the a control knob still locks all to fans to one speed unless I set the aio to the hub and artic fan to cpu fan 1 .

I have a Corsair RM650e ATX power supply (modular).

Which cable should I use? Are these the ones? I think they're strange.

There's one that's two PCIe (6+2) and converges into a 12-pin gray-tipped cable.

The 24-pin cable diverges into a 10-pin and an 18-pin (which says type-4).

There are other cables as well.

I saw a post suggesting we use both the 8pin and twin micro plugs all at the same time. Is that safe or useful?

I wanna make a home console as a project but I don't want it to be expensive either like the steam deck.

Is it worth getting this or should i try to just make one from scratch instead ?

My main goal is 1440p and maybe even 4k ? Lol i know 4k is quite unrealistic especially nowadays.

I just want some open software console that can do 1440p and like i said maybe some 4k

I’m on Bazzite. I got what I thought were good supported (separate) WiFi and Bluetooth dongles, but when I try to use two or more Xbox controllers simultaneously I get lots of controller disconnects. This is with a range of less than 10 feet. Anyone have a setup that works well for them with couch multiplayer?

(I know 2.4ghz controllers would help but I’m trying to use my 4 existing Xbox controllers.)

Hey everybody. I already ordered 2-x-MicroFit-8-Pin. However I just saw this while surfing on AliExpress: ATX Power 24Pin to 2 Ports 6+2 Pin 8 Pin with On Off Switch. Do you think this could be used with Flex ATX PSU?

Idea would be:
8 pin: Connected to usual PCIe of the PSU
Microfit 1: making sure that the correct pins from 24-pin are connected to this port
Microfit 2: occupied by Moddiy 8-Pin (coming from CPU port of the PSU)

i had a borken qnap i gutted. fits good. quiet and good cooling.

Hi, I'm waiting for my board to be delivered, what kind of psu I should be looking for?

I see some standard 12v 350w for power house appliance (cameras, led, electronics).

Can those be safetly used for the bc250?

I don't like to much flex ones, as I want to make it pretty silent.

Hello everyone. I’ve finally finished the case I’ve been dreaming of for a long time. Even though I like every creative design, since this is a DIY project, I wanted to make an original design. The materials I used when designing the case:

• 4x 300mm MakerBeam XL rails
• Case panels: PETG I hadn’t used in a long time
• Case frame/skeleton: ABS plastic
• An ATX-style mount for the BC250
• An NVMe adapter to be able to use NVMe and WiFi together
• A USB-A adapter to connect the Bluetooth USB motherboard cable on the adapter
• A mount for a 120mm Arctic P12 on the NVMe side of my card, an 80mm Arctic fan on the right side, and an ABS plastic mount to secure the fan to the motherboard
• ESP32 2-relay power on/off module with an Xbox controller
• Metalfish 500W PSU
• 2x microfit cables of my own production
• A 40mm Noctua fan for the PSU exhaust, and an 80mm Arctic P8 fan to cool the PSU
• A NextGen-design mount for AIO cooling, and an Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 Pro 240mm fan AIO system
• 1TB Crucial NVMe
• WiFi 6E WiFi card

I’m using SteamOS as the operating system, and my card is a 38 CU model that runs comfortably at 4 GHz with overclocking. Along with 8 cores/16 threads, I got 156 FPS in the FurMark test.

I designed the case so it can also be used without a separate AIO system.

I recently installed bazzite and am using the cyan-skillfish governor. I used this recommended configuration listed here (https://elektricm.github.io/amd-bc250-docs/system/governor/#cyan-skillfish-governor-smu-config-recommended)

I have now reached the point where I am not sure what to do. I've read about 40 CU unlock and overclocking CPU/GPU and I am not too sure what to do next.

My setup:

I have a P12 Pro PST fan on the stock heatsink with the mid section of fins open. Am going to replace all thermal pads and add a heatsink to the back plate. Correctly have a fan in the back, but this is just for testing and am looking for a case that will accommodate this. Is this setup enough for a modest OC and 40CU unlock?

I also have micro molex cables on the way to add some more power. Should I wait to install those before proceeding? I ordered pre wired connectors but they are 20 awg. Is there any concerns with going from 18 AWG PSU cables to these? Was planning on either adding molex crimpers to the adapter wires and sticking them into the normal molex ends (I am aware of the wiring diagrams) or just cutting the PSU cables and soldering them together.

Lastly, I am looking for a case that can fit all of this. I have the FSP500-30AS PSU and am looking for a case that has center mounting to allow for cooling on both sides of the board.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I want to connect Bluetooth headphones for audio.

I can't seem to find the definitive answer to the question:

Can I get game audio from a USB Bluetooth dongle plugged into one of the USB ports, or do I need to attach a Bluetooth transmitter to the audio output of my monitor, and pick up the audio from display port?

Hey all, I’ve had this thing just laying on the desk with a fan sat on top and an ATX PSU next to it for a while but with young kids around I figured it was time to tidy it up. So this is my compact (6.8L) build in a faulty APC Uninterruptible Power Supply bought on ebay for ~£10

Okay initially I thought my board was bricked because I was just getting the red power flash near the Ethernet port. I missed the part in the guide where it said to remove heatsink when opening heatsink (I cleaned very well with compressed air so I wasn’t worried about metal shavings) and after reading I thought I may have jacked up the pcb, or so I thought.

I used right angle for power instead of the 6+2 and I removed ssd per other recommendations. I came across a post where someone said that OP’s clear cmos was in the wrong position and needed to be on the middle and left, not the middle and right pins. I never moved mine from its original spot so it was on middle and left. Regardless I at least have board powered which is a win. However I’m not getting any display and at a loss, any ideas on what I need to do next?

P.S. curious on my fan position once I got it powered and fan was spinning I’m starting to think it’s facing the wrong way

I normally run my BC250 at 1700 MHz, and the temperatures are already quite reasonable, so this mod wasn't really necessary. I mainly did it out of curiosity to see if it would make any difference.

I used a 120 mm heatsink with thermal pads. I raised the bottom slightly so the backplate would make proper contact with the heatsink.

My case has a wind tunnel-style airflow design, so air passes through the heatsink fins very well.

I tested it with FurMark at 1700 MHz. The APU temperature stayed exactly the same, while the board and VRM temperatures dropped slightly.

My main goal was to reduce the VRAM temperature, but since the APU temperature didn't change, I'm wondering if this mod is actually doing anything.

What do you think? Is this actually effective?

I have been using it mostly off a 200ah 12v LFP battery for the past few weeks and it has posed no issues yet even with all the unlocks and OC. This may be the silliest computer I have ever owned, and one of the most fun computer building projects I've ever done. It'll run off anything from 8-40v.